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SIX WOOD BOX
Mixed Woods
Roseand Copyright ©2004
INSTALLING HARDWARE
Many years ago, I made a drop-leaf walnut wall desk with
a number of variously sized pigeonholes. I remember the
satisfaction I felt fitting each of the little dividers into its
dadoes. I remember the pains I took to smooth the wood
with a variety of sandpaper grits. I also remember visiting
the hardware store in search of a lid support that would
hold the drop leaf at the proper angle so that it could be
used as a writing surface.
I found the brass support that I had envisioned for my
desk and I took it home and tried to install it. I tried it
one way and then another and another, each time making
screw holes in my carefully sanded walnut, until I realized,
with a growing sense of panic, that it simply wasn't going
to work, that the arrangement of pigeonholes I'd designed
left no room for the operation of this lid support.
I searched the mail order catalogs next (at that time,
there weren't nearly as many to choose from). But nothing
I found there looked any more likely to work in the tight
confines of my desk than what I'd already tried.
Rule number one for makers of furniture and wooden-
ware:
Buy the hardware first.
Buy it before construction
starts, before a single stick of wood is cut, before even the
finishing touches are put on the design. Buy the hardware
first because what the project requires may not be available
or, if available, may not work as envisioned.
What happened to the wall desk? I did finish it, and
we did use it in our home for several years. We, then, later
gave it to a friend. Although I haven't seen it for ten or
eleven years and have attempted to blot its memory from
my mind, I believe that my solution to the problem of the
drop leaf support involved a length of noisy and inelegant
brass chain.
The opened six-wood box shows the lock installed in the front.
Before beginning work on this small box, I waited for
my hardware to arrive.
Begin construction with the glued-up panel from which
the top and bottom are cut. Shuffle around a number of
rips approximately 1" wide until a pleasing arrangement is
found. Then glue-up and clamp these rips. After the glue
is cured, you can plane the panel (see chapter five) cut out
the box's top and bottom, and mould them on a shaper
or a table-mounted router.
Dimension and dovetail sidewall material together (see
chapter twenty-five). Fasten the bottom in place with a
number of screws passing through oversized holes that allow
expansion and contraction of the bottom in response to
seasonal changes in humidity.
1
Install the hinges on the back wall of the box. This process
begins with careful layout. Lines marking the ends of the
hinge leaves are squared across the back wall of the box. Then,
additional lines marking the depth of the hinge mortises are
drawn. Set these lines so that the top surfaces of the top leaves
are flush with the top edge of the box's back wall.
Roseand Copyright ©2004
Roseand Copyright ©2004
2
A series of
shallow
chisel cuts lifts wood from the mortises.
this will be removed by working the chisel back, from the
opposite direction.
3
After cutting the mortises, install the hinges. Take care to
accurately align the hinges so that both hinge pins open on
the same axis.
5
Remove hinges from the back wall so they can be installed
on the lid. Here, a scratch awl is being used to punch
a
starting hole for the drill bit in the center of the circle marking
the screw holes in the hinges.
6
After installing the
hinges on the lid,
fasten the hinges'
other leaves into the
mortises previously
cut into the box's back
wall.
4
When the hinges have been fastened to the box's back wall,
invert the box over the lid and tape in place. Then mark
hinge locations very carefully.
Roseand Copyright ©2004
7
8
Next, install the brass box lock. Again, careful layout is
essential. Square a centerline across the top edge of the box's
front wall and draw the mortise for the lock on the top edge
and inside face.
Then extend the centerline down the front face of the box's
front wall, and lay out the keyhole along this line. Drill a 1/4
"
hole above a 1/8" hole to remove most of the waste necessary
for the creation of the keyhole.
Four 3/16"holes remove much of the waste for the mortise
that will house the main body of the lock.
9
The completed mortise can be seen from the back
10
After installing the lock in the box's front wall, locate the
strike plate on the bottom side of the lid. The fist step in that
process is locking that strike plate in place with the key.
Here, the strike plate can be seen locked facedown. Notice
the two bumps on the back side of the strike plate. When the
lid is closed and tapped firmly, these two bumps leave depressions
on the lid's bottom surface, locating the strike plate on the lid.
Cut the mortise in which the strike plate will sit. The
lock is now fully functional.
12
.
11
In this photo, the two depressions can be seen near the
upper edge of the lid. After the lid has been clamped face-
down on the benchtop, position the strike plate so that the two
bumps on its upper side are located in these depressions. Then
draw a line around the strike plate and the mortise cut.
Roseand Copyright ©2004
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