Lowe's Woodpost Creative Ideas For Woodworkers Fall 2007.pdf

v FROM OUR SHOP

Q What is the best way to cut

THE PROS KNOW v

Let’s build something together

CONTRIBUTORS

HOSEY

HUTSON

For this issue’s

Changing

Station, Hosey

gathered design

ideas from several new mothers

and from his own experience as

a grandfather. This sturdy and

attractive piece offers plenty of

storage and convenience.

hange is in the air this time of year, and this issue features

projects that will help you make the most of the changes in

your household.

If a new family member has just arrived, consider building

our Changing Station to make diaper duty more convenient.

The design features a large surface for the baby, roomy storage for supplies,

and handy space for appliances.

Or perhaps your growing family needs more room for get-togethers. Our

Table and Chairs set provides a perfect addition for backyard dining. And if you

built our Child’s Table and Chairs from the Spring/Summer issue, you’re ready

to tackle the adult version. This project is similar in construction, but it includes

a different joinery technique that will add to your woodworking skill set.

Fall weather, as well as new babies and family visits, means more cleanup.

Our Trash Can Shelter project provides an attractive storage solution with shade

and ample air circulation.

Also featured in this issue are Skill Sets to help you

build your woodworking knowledge and confidence

while you build.

Please share your comments and suggestions with

us at LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers.

With the Experts at

when working with treated

lumber. Are there any tips for

handling it?

BILL LAHAY

Bill’s years of

woodworking

and carpentry

experience

remodeling

homes and building custom

cabinetry and furniture are

evident in the columns he pens

regularly for this magazine. In

the Workshop column in this

issue, Bill provides pointers on

how to set up your workshop

for years of enjoyment.

offer more consistency, and Lowe’s Top

Choice lumber is developed with stringent

quality specifications for this reason. But the

process of pressure-treating lumber for out-

door use does introduce some factors—such

as higher moisture content—that affect its

behavior and characteristics.

For the best results, buy treated lumber a

few weeks before use, stack it with scrap

wood spacers to allow airflow between the

boards, and shelter it from extreme weather

conditions. This slow drying process will help

reduce checking (formation of surface cracks

during rapid drying). Allowing the treated

lumber to dry first makes it easier to

handle during projects.

latticework to size for use in

outdoor projects?

they’re as large as sheets of plywood

but not as rigid. Without uniform support un-

derneath them, they won’t rest flat. Also, the

overlapping wood construction of lattice can

interfere with a saw base and cord due to

the raised edges and irregular surfaces.

The key to cutting lattice is providing ad-

equate support for the material as well as

the portable circular saw or other tool used

for cutting. You can support the lattice by lay-

ing four sacrificial 2 x 4s across two sturdy

sawhorses. Make sure that the 2 x 4s are laid

flat and evenly spaced.

Our Tool Guide project, featured on page

10 in the Winter 2006 issue, can provide

support and a smoother traveling surface for

your saw because the shoe of the circular

saw rides along the flat portion of the guide

rather than the irregular surface of the lat-

tice. Adjust the saw-blade depth to allow for

the thickness of the guide and latticework,

and add about 1 ⁄ 16 inch to that measurement.

This will score the 2 x 4 supports without sig-

nificantly weakening them.

IN THIS ISSUE

4 FEATURE PROJECT

Changing Station

Q I cut moulding to what I think

8 FEATURE PROJECT

Table and Chairs

CHRIS HILL

As the father of

three boys, Chris

appreciates the

need for having

an attractive

storage solution for his trash

can—especially with five family

members routinely filling it up.

is the right size, but I always

seem to be off, particularly at

mitered corners. How can I be

more accurate?

10 WEEKEND PROJECT

Trash Can Shelter

12 SHOP SMART

Fastener Foundations

A Ill-fitting moulding corners usually

14 WORKSHOP

Setting Up Your Shop

MELISSA BIRDSONG,

VICE PRESIDENT, TREND, DESIGN & BRAND

LOWE’S COMPANIES, INC.

are caused by surface irregularities. To

resolve this problem, first test-fit the work-

piece and mark the cut line. Don’t try to

get the cut exactly right the first time.

Instead, leave about 1 ⁄ 4 inch at

the ends, test-fit again, and

then trim in small increments

to the correct length.

Ignoring deviations in stan-

dard angles (few corners are

true 45-degree angles!) rather than

focusing on the length of the work-

piece is a common mistake when

working with trim. Outside corners with

mitered ends tend to gap—especially

when nailed tightly against a surface. Cut

a pair of 1-foot-long test pieces at 45 degrees,

test-fit each corner, and cut the moulding to

compensate for gaps.

16 PUT IT TOGETHER

Bonding Basics

How-To Plan

To download project and

How-To plans such as our

Tapering Jig, visit us online at

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/

Woodworkers .

The project will help you

create tapered table legs

and other parts. It will be

available online through

November 1, 2007.

Safety Is Your Responsibility

Lowe’s Companies, Inc., and its subsidiaries (“Lowe’s”), and SPC Custom

Publishing, the Publisher of this issue of The Wood Post, have made every

effort to be complete and accurate in the instructions and other content

contained in this Publication. However, neither Lowe’s nor the Publisher

assumes any responsibility or liability for damages or losses suffered, sus-

tained, or incurred in the course of your home improvement, woodworking,

or repair project or in the course of your use of the item you create or repair.

Further, improper use of handtools or power tools can lead to serious and

permanent injury or even death. In some issues of The Wood Post, the guards

and safety equipment have been removed in illustrations and photos only

to provide a better view of the operation of the tool. Do not attempt any pro-

cedure or project unless all guards and safety equipment are in place.

Always follow manufacturer’s operating instructions in the use of tools.

Check and observe all standard safety precautions.

The Wood Post is published by SPC Custom Publishing, Inc., 2100 Lakeshore Drive, Birmingham, AL 35209. Copyright 2007 SPC Custom Publishing, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in

any form or by any means without prior written permission of the publisher. Lowe’s ® , the gable design, The Wood Post ® , and Creative Ideas for Woodworkers™ are registered trademarks of LF, LLC. All rights reserved.

Address all correspondence to The Wood Post , Attn.: Sandy Culver, P.O. Box 523-G, Birmingham, AL 35201. The Wood Post is staff produced and cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. Printed in the U.S.A.

The Wood Post FALL 2007

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers

Q Sometimes I have difficulty

A The best lumber grades generally

A Full lattice panels are unwieldy—

v FEATURE PROJECT

SKILL LEVEL:

Changing Station

e. Cut a 3 ⁄ 4 -inch-radius quarter circle on the

bottom inside corners of the (06) end stiles,

and then attach the (06) end stiles to the (07)

end rails.

f. Cut and attach the (08) end mid rail on

the left face frame assembly.

Figure 1

T his station takes diaper changing to

Make diaper duty more

convenient with this

nursery addition.

a new level, with a spacious surface

for the baby and plenty of storage

below in easy-access drawers and cubbies.

As an added time-saving feature, we built

in space for a refrigerator and microwave

so that you can store and heat bottles right

in the baby’s room.

THE CASE

a. Use both glue and brads to attach the

(09) back so that it is centered and flush

with the top of the inside face of the back

face frame.

b. Cut a hole in the (09) back as shown in

Figure 2 to create an opening for optional

electrical access. To do this, drill a 1-inch

access hole for a flush trim bit. Then remove

the waste by running a router fitted with a

flush trim bit around the inside edges of the

cubby face frame.

c. Attach the front and back face frames to

the right and left face frames. Check the

assembly for square, and attach temporary

bracing if necessary.

d. Use glue and 1 5 ⁄ 8 -inch screws to attach

the (10) mid partition so that it is flush with

both the top of the (03) mid stile and the front

of the drawer opening.

e. Use glue and brads to attach the (11) front

panel to the front face frame so that it is flush

with the top of the (10) mid partition.

FINISHED

DIMENSIONS

HEIGHT

35 inches

DEPTH

26 1 ⁄ 4 inches

WIDTH

41 1 ⁄ 4 inches

Instructions:

GENERAL: Cut and label all of the parts

as needed, using the Cut List as a guide and

adjusting for fit.

FACE FRAMES

Assemble the front, back, left, and right face

frames per Figure 1, using pocket hole join-

ery unless otherwise noted. The parts in this

step are ripped from 1 x 6 and 1 x 8 stock.

a. Cut a 3 ⁄ 4 -inch-radius quarter circle on

the bottom inside corners of the (01) stiles.

b. Attach the (01) stiles to the (02) rails.

c. Cut the (03) mid stiles to fit, and attach

to the (02) rails.

d. Cut and install the (04) mid rails and (05)

cubby stiles.

SKILL SET

Face Frames

In general, face frames are assembled

with stiles (vertical) and rails (horizontal).

To assemble the face frames for this

project, drill pocket holes at the ends of

the (02) rails where they will join with the

(01) stiles. Apply glue to the joint, and

attach with pocket hole screws.

Figure 2

TOOLS YOU’LL USE

TABLE SAW

MITER SAW

ROUTER

POWER SANDER

PNEUMATIC

NAIL GUN

u TABLE SAW (OR CIRCULAR SAW

WITH A STRAIGHTEDGE GUIDE)

u MITER SAW (OR HANDSAW

WITH MITER BOX)

u ROUTER WITH A FLUSH TRIM BIT

AND A 1 ⁄ 4 -INCH RABBETING BIT

u POWER SANDER AND VARIOUS

GRITS OF SANDPAPER

u PNEUMATIC NAIL GUN

(OR HAMMER)

u DRILL/DRIVER WITH 1- AND 1 1 ⁄ 2 -

INCH FORSTNER BITS

u K3MS KREG JIG

K3 MASTER SYSTEM

u TAPE MEASURE

u PENCIL

For late-night feeding, our plan accommodates

a refrigerator and a microwave, including cord

access. Check out the Winter 2007 issue of

Lowe’s Creative Ideas for Home and Garden

to see this project used as a hospitality center.

The Wood Post FALL 2007

PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRIAN FRANCIS

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers

2 CONSTRUCT

1 BUILD THE

v FEATURE PROJECT

f. Use glue and 1 5 ⁄ 8 -inch screws to attach

the (12) floor to the bottom of the (10) mid

partition so that it is flush with the top of

the (07) end rail.

g. Attach the (13) end panel centered on the

inside face of the left face frame so that its

bottom edge sits 3 ⁄ 4 inch below the top of the

(08) end mid rail.

h. Attach the (14) glide support so that it is

flush with the edge of the (03) mid stile

adjacent to the drawer opening.

i. Attach the (15) cubby side so that it is flush

with the top of the face frames and the bot-

tom of the (04) mid rail.

j. Install the (16) mini floor so that it is flush

with the bottom of the (15) cubby side and

the top of the (08) end mid rail.

k. Attach the (17) cubby floor so that it is flush

with the top of the (04) mid rail.

l. Attach the two (18) dividers to the (15) cub-

by side and (10) mid partition at 7 1 ⁄ 4 inches

from the front face frame and at 5 1 ⁄ 4 inches

from the back face frame.

m. Install the (19) mini panel so that it is cen-

tered over the top left opening on the back

of the front face frame. NOTE: Skip to Step

4 if you don’t plan to build the shelf.

edges using a router fitted with a 3 ⁄ 8 -inch

roundover bit.

c. Miter cut the (24) long railings and the (25)

short railings to fit around the (23) top, and

secure them per Figure 3.

d. Cut and attach (31) half rounds to the front

and sides of the top assembly with both glue

and brads. Miter cut the ends of the front

piece, and then square cut the backs of the

side pieces.

shorter than the drawer opening to allow

for the drawer slides.

a. Cut a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch by 1 ⁄ 4 -inch rabbet along the

bottom of the inside face of each (26) drawer

side and (27) drawer end.

b. Attach pairs of (26) drawer sides to pairs

of (27) drawer ends (see Figure 4).

c. Check each drawer assembly for square,

and attach the (28) drawer bottom using

glue and brads.

d. Lay the case assembly on its back, and

attach half of the drawer slide inside each

drawer opening per the manufacturer’s

instructions, making sure the drawer slides

are flush with the inside of the face frame.

Attach the other half of each drawer slide

flush with the front of the drawer assemblies.

Finally, insert the drawer assemblies into the

drawer openings.

e. The width of each (29) drawer face should

be 1 ⁄ 8 inch less than the width of the drawer

opening. The height of the (29) drawer face

should equal the height of the total drawer

opening minus 1 ⁄ 4 inch and divided by 3.

Measure for and cut the (29) drawer faces,

and then test-fit them on the drawer assem-

blies, ensuring a 1 ⁄ 16 -inch clearance around

the perimeter.

f. Miter cut and attach (31) half rounds to

the perimeter of each (29) drawer face (see

Figure 4).

g. Apply a piece of carpet tape to the front of

each drawer box. Press each (29) drawer face

into place. NOTE: You’ll find it helpful to cut

several 1 ⁄ 16 -inch scrap-wood spacers that you

can use to align the (29) drawer faces in the

opening. Then pull out the entire drawer

assembly, and secure the (29) drawer face by

driving 1 5 ⁄ 8 -inch screws through the (27) draw-

er end into the back of the (29) drawer face.

c. Remove the drawers from the assembly.

Fill all nail holes with stainable wood filler,

and sand. Prime, and apply the first coat of

paint as desired.

d. Drill pilot holes and attach nail-on furni-

ture glides to the bottoms of the (01) stiles.

e. Attach the top assembly to the case using

glue and brads. Apply a second coat of

paint, let dry, and install the drawer pulls.

f. Install a four-outlet circuit breaker elec-

trical box if desired, attaching it to the face

of the rear (18) divider.

g. Install the optional shelf or appliances,

and add a safety strap for the baby.

DRAWERS

The width of each drawer assembly is 1 inch

Cut List

PART NAME

QUANTITY MATERIAL

SIZE (in inches)

FRONT AND BACK FACE FRAMES

01 stiles

(8-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 31 1 ⁄ 4

02 rails

(8-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 36

03 mid stiles

(8-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 25 3 ⁄ 4

Lowe’s List

PROJECT #WFall071

6 APPLY FINISHING

04 mid rails

(8-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 17 3 ⁄ 4

05 cubby stiles

(8-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 7 1 ⁄ 2

TOUCHES

a. Miter cut and attach (30) quarter rounds

around the perimeters of the panels (see

Figure 5).

b. For the appliances, drill 1 1 ⁄ 2 -inch holes for

the cords through both the (10) mid partition

and the (15) cubby side into the optional elec-

trical access compartment.

END FACE FRAMES

06 end stiles

1 x 8

⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 31 1 ⁄ 4

LUMBER*

5 (4-foot-long) 1 ⁄ 2 x 4s, poplar

1 (6-foot-long) 1 x 4, poplar

2 (8-foot-long) 1 x 4s, poplar

1 (6-foot-long) 1 x 6, poplar

2 (8-foot-long) 1 x 6s, poplar

1 (8-foot-long) 1 x 8, poplar

1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of 1 ⁄ 4 -inch birch plywood

1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of 3 ⁄ 4 -inch birch plywood

3 (8-foot-long) pieces of 3 ⁄ 8 - x 11 ⁄ 16 -inch half-round

moulding

3 (8-foot-long) pieces of 1 ⁄ 2 -inch quarter-round

moulding

07 end rails

1 x 8

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 21

08 end mid rail

1 x 8

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 21

CASE

09 back

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 30 x 39

10 mid partition

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 23 3 ⁄ 4 x 28

11 front panel

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 19 x 30

Figure 3

Figure 4

12 floor

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 19 3 ⁄ 4 x 23 1 ⁄ 2

3 BUILD THE SHELF

13 end panel

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 17 1 ⁄ 2 x 23 3 ⁄ 4

(OPTIONAL)

a. Prepare the (20) shelf supports by drilling

1 ⁄ 4 -inch holes 1 ⁄ 2 inch deep, per the shelf sup-

port layout in Figure 2.

b. Attach the (20) shelf supports, as shown

in Figure 2, so that they are flush with the

tops of the front and back face frames and

the (10) mid partition.

c. Cut the (21) shelf to measure 3 ⁄ 8 inch less

than the distance between the (20) shelf sup-

ports, as well as 1 ⁄ 4 inch less than the opening

between the inside of the face frame and

the (10) mid partition.

d. Cut the (22) nosing 3 ⁄ 8 inch less than the

opening of the face frame.

e. Center the (22) nosing on the front of the

(21) shelf, and attach it with glue and brads.

f. Attach a (31) half round to the top edge of

the (22) nosing.

14 glide support

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 16 x 23 3 ⁄ 4

15 cubby side

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 12 x 23 3 ⁄ 4

16 mini floor

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 13 x 23 3 ⁄ 4

17 cubby floor

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 5 1 ⁄ 2 x 23 3 ⁄ 4

18 dividers

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 5 1 ⁄ 2 x 9 3 ⁄ 4

HARDWARE & SUPPLIES

1 box (1 1 ⁄ 4 -inch) pocket hole screws, fine thread

1 box (1 5 ⁄ 8 -inch) screws

1 box (#17 x 1-inch) wire brads

3 pairs of (20-inch) drawer slides

1 (4-outlet) circuit breaker

1 package shelf clips

1 package nail-on furniture glides

3 drawer pulls

carpet tape

paintbrush (or roller)

stainable wood filler

wood glue (Titebond III)

1 quart Valspar Interior Latex High Hiding Primer

1 quart Valspar Ultra Premium, Burnt Tile

6011-2, semi-gloss

19 mini panel

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 11 1 ⁄ 4 x 13

20 shelf supports

1 x 8

⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 20

SHELF

21 shelf

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 18 3 ⁄ 4 x 21 5 ⁄ 8

22 nosing

1 x 8

⁄ 4 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 x 20 5 ⁄ 8

Figure 5

TOP

23 top

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 25 1 ⁄ 2 x 40 1 ⁄ 2

24 long railings

(8-foot-long) 1 x 4

⁄ 4 x 3 x 40 1 ⁄ 2 **

25 short railings

(6-foot-long) 1 x 4

⁄ 4 x 3 x 25 1 ⁄ 2 **

DRAWERS

26 drawer sides

⁄ 2 x 4

⁄ 2 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 20

27 drawer ends

⁄ 2 x 4

⁄ 2 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 15 3 ⁄ 4

28 drawer bottoms 3

⁄ 4 -inch plywood

⁄ 4 x 16 1 ⁄ 4 x 19 1 ⁄ 2

4 BUILD THE

29 drawer faces

(6-foot-long) 1 x 6

⁄ 4 x 5 1 ⁄ 4 x 17 5 ⁄ 8

TOP ASSEMBLY

a. Cut the (23) top to fit the case.

b. Cut the (24) long railing and the (25) short

railing 1 inch longer than shown in the Cut

List. Round over the front and back top

TRIM

30 quarter rounds

moulding

11 ⁄ 16 x 11 ⁄ 16 x 96

31 half rounds

moulding

3 ⁄ 8 x 11 ⁄ 16 x 96

**Measure length from long point to long point.

*Availability varies by market.

The Wood Post FALL 2007

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers

5 BUILD THREE

v FEATURE PROJECT

SKILL LEVEL:

Table and Chairs

and evenings dining on

your own handcrafted

table and chairs set. With their

simple construction, the table

and chairs are sturdy, yet hand-

some, and they are certain to

weather the elements.

Figure 1

f. To center the table assemblies

for attachment, draw diagonals

from corner to corner on the

underside of the tabletop as-

sembly. Align the corners of the

base assembly with these lines,

and attach the tabletop assem-

bly to the base assembly with

pocket hole screws.

Lowe’s List

for one table and four chairs

PROJECT #WFall072

LUMBER*

21 (8-foot-long) 1 x 4s

4 (8-foot-long) 2 x 4s

4 (8-foot-long) 2 x 6s

Make more room

for family gatherings

with this dining set.

HARDWARE & SUPPLIES

1 box (2 1 ⁄ 2 -inch) Phillips II

pressure-treated screws

1 package 1 5 ⁄ 8 -inch screws

1 box (1 1 ⁄ 4 -inch) Kreg pocket hole

screws, coarse thread

1 package ( 5 ⁄ 8 -inch) galvanized

staples

5 packages ( 3 ⁄ 4 -inch) nail-on

furniture glides

paintbrush (or roller)

stainable wood filler

wood glue rated for exterior use

(Titebond III)

1 gallon white Valspar House &

Trim Primer

1 quart Valspar Ultra Premium,

Aged Pine 6011-5, semi-gloss

1 quart Valspar Ultra Premium,

Swim 5006-8A, semi-gloss

Instructions:

GENERAL: Cut and label parts

as needed, using the Cut List as

a guide and adjusting for fit.

Figure 2

leg. After the glue has dried, rip

each of the legs to measure 3

inches by 3 inches square along

the entire length.

b. The table legs are tapered on

both bottom inside faces. Begin

2 inches from the outside corner

of the leg, tapering 6 inches up

the inside face. Download our

plan for a Tapering Jig online at

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/

Woodworkers.

c. Drill pocket holes at each end

of the (05) skirt boards, plus ad-

ditional evenly spaced holes

along the top inside face. Draw

arrows on both sides of the (05)

skirt boards to indicate the di-

rection of the pocket holes for

attaching the top assembly.

d. Attach the (05) skirt boards to

the legs using glue and pocket

hole screws. Check for square.

e. Scribe to fit, miter cut, and

attach the (06) corner braces to

the leg/skirt assembly (per Fig-

ure 2) using glue and pocket

hole screws.

A FINISH

a. Fill all holes, and sand the as-

semblies smooth.

b. To create the distressed or

antique look like we did for our

project, heavily sand the typical

wear areas, such as the edges

of the table and seats, as well as

the lower portions of the legs.

c. Apply a dark paint, and then

let it dry.

d. Paint over the first coat with

a lighter color. After the second

coat has dried, sand the lighter

paint to expose the darker color

underneath it.

e. First drill pilot holes, and then

attach nail-on furniture glides

to the bottom of all chair and

table legs.

TABLETOP

Cut the parts for this step 1 ⁄ 2 inch

longer than specified in the Cut

List. You’ll trim them to length

after assembly. Be sure to plane

the boards to the same thickness.

a. Using a router fitted with a 1 ⁄ 4 -

inch slot-cutting bit, cut a 5 ⁄ 16 -

inch-deep groove centered on

one long edge of each (01) top

board and (03) breadboard.

b. With the same bit, cut a 5 ⁄ 16 -

inch-deep groove into one of

the long edges of one (02) end

board, and a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch tongue on

one of the long edges of the

other (02) end board.

c. Fit your router with a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch

rabbeting bit, and use it to cut

a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch-thick by 1 ⁄ 4 -inch-deep

tongue on the uncut long edge

of each (01) top board.

d. Test-fit and glue the (01) top

boards and the (02) end boards

together as shown in Figure 1.

Then clamp the top/end board

assembly, and secure with 5 ⁄ 8 -

inch galvanized staples. Allow

the glue to dry.

e. Working from both centerlines,

trim the top/end board assem-

bly to measure 37 1 ⁄ 2 inches long

by 41 1 ⁄ 2 inches wide.

TABLE

FINISHED

DIMENSIONS

HEIGHT

29 1 ⁄ 2 inches

DEPTH

41 1 ⁄ 2 inches

WIDTH

41 inches

f. Fit a router with a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch rab-

beting bit to cut a 1 ⁄ 4 -inch-thick

tongue along the 41 1 ⁄ 2 -inch edge

of the top/end board assembly.

g. Attach the (03) breadboards

to the assembly using glue and

5 ⁄ 8 -inch galvanized staples.

h. Sand the top assembly flat,

and round over the perimeter

edges using a router fitted with

a 1 ⁄ 8 -inch roundover bit.

*Availability varies by market—cedar and

redwood are appropriate for this project.

SKILL SET

Tongue and Groove Joinery

2 BUILD THE

TABLE BASE

a. Glue and clamp two (04) leg

boards together to create each

TOOLS YOU’LL USE

Cut List for one table

PART NAME

QTY.

MATERIAL SIZE (in inches)

TABLE SAW

BAND SAW

MITER SAW

ROUTER

DRILL/DRIVER

TABLETOP

01 top boards

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 37 1 ⁄ 2

02 end boards

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 2 x 37 1 ⁄ 2

This technique often is used to assemble tabletops and chair

seats. Using a router fitted with a slot-cutting bit, cut a groove

centered on the long edge of one board. Use a router with a

rabbeting bit to cut a tongue on the long edge of a second

board, which will fit into the grooved edge of the first. Test-fit

pieces to ensure a snug fit. Adjust if necessary, and fasten the

parts together with glue and the appropriate-size fasteners.

u TABLE SAW (OR

CIRCULAR SAW WITH A

STRAIGHTEDGE GUIDE)

u BAND SAW

(OR JIGSAW)

u MITER SAW (OR HAND-

SAW WITH MITER BOX)

u ROUTER WITH A 1 ⁄ 4 -

INCH RABBETING BIT, A

⁄ 4 -INCH SLOT-CUTTING

BIT, AND A 1 ⁄ 8 -INCH

ROUNDOVER BIT

u DRILL/DRIVER WITH

#10 COUNTERSINK BIT

u POWER SANDER AND

VARIOUS GRITS OF

SANDPAPER

u PLANER

u K3MS KREG JIG K3

MASTER SYSTEM

u CLAMPS

u PNEUMATIC

STAPLE GUN

u FRAMING SQUARE

u FLEXIBLE RULER

u TAPE MEASURE

u PENCIL

03 breadboards

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 2 1 ⁄ 4 x 41 1 ⁄ 2

TABLE LEGS AND SKIRT

04 leg boards

2 x 4

1 1 ⁄ 2 x 3 x 28 3 ⁄ 4

To build the chairs, you’ll

find the Cut List, how-to

instructions, and detailed

illustrations online at

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/

Woodworkers .

web

FOR MORE

05 skirt boards

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 4 x 29 1 ⁄ 2

06 corner braces

1 x 4

3 ⁄ 4 x 3 1 ⁄ 4 x 16 3 ⁄ 4 **

**Measure length from long point to long point.

The Wood Post FALL 2007

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL HANSON

LowesCreativeIdeas.com/Woodworkers

S pend pleasant afternoons

3 APPLY

Table Instructions

1 PREPARE THE

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