Bench - Benches & Picnic Table.pdf

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PMX0805picgate_p85-6r2

CIRCULAR

SAW: A 7 1 ⁄ 4 -

in. model will

handle all the

crosscuts. But

if you really

want to speed

things up while

increasing

accuracy and

cut quality, use a

power miterbox.

A sliding version

can be set to

make partial

cuts so you can

zip through the

lap joints on

the legs.

P L E A S E C U T H E R E

DRILL/DRIVER:

A cordless

version is handy

to drive the

screws. A small

drill press,

though, will do

a better job on

the holes and

counterbores.

DRILL BITS:

We used 7 ⁄ 32 - and

3

⁄ 8 -in. twist bits

and Forstner

bits for the

counterbores.

The easiest way to cut the legs to length and at the

correct angle is to mark them from a full-size template.

Cut a piece of 1 ⁄ 4 -in. plywood to the height and width of

the X pattern. Make sure it’s absolutely square. Then

lay 2 x 4 stock across the panel so that opposite edges

intersect opposite diagonal corners as shown. Trace the

outline of the 2 x 4, then trace the opposite leg to lay out

the intersecting lap joint.

Rough cut all leg stock slightly longer than ﬁ nished

length. Lay each piece in place on the template, trace the

ﬁ nished angled end cuts, and mark the lap joints.

Tools &

Hardware

The table and bench diﬀ er in proportion in that the tabletop is made of

2 x 6s while the bench top is made of 2 x 4s. The top boards are held

together by 2 x 4 cleats screwed from underneath, the legs are bolted

to the cleats, and the whole assembly is stiﬀ ened by diagonal braces.

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SANDPAPER:

Use it to sot en

sawn corners.

For a crisper

look, cut bevels

with a sharp

block plane.

RAFTER

SQUARE: This

oversize square

is best for

aligning large

assemblies.

1-IN. CHISEL:

For cleaning the

half-lap joints.

HARDWARE:

If you’re putting

a lot of money

into the wood,

don’t skimp with

the fasteners.

Stainless steel

is the best for

projects exposed

to the weather.

If you opt for

galvanized,

make sure it’s

hot-dipped

rather than

electroplated.

The latter has a

shiny, smooth,

thin coating that

won’t last long in

the elements.

Quick

Tip

Don’t power drive the 3 1 ⁄ 2 -in.

screws all the way home. You may

accidentally drive them through

the top or damage the heads.

Instead, set your drill’s clutch to

stop just short of tight, and make

the last few turns by hand.

don’t skimp with

projects exposed

Because the cleat ends are angled, it’s tricky to place a screw near the

edge of the table, yet this is just where you need a fastener. Our approach

is to bore a stopped 5 ⁄ 8 -in. hole in the angled face to provide a seat for a

2-in. screw. If you have a drill press, you can bore the hole with a Forstner

bit. Otherwise, ﬁ rst cut the stock squarely to length, bore the stopped

holes, then cut the angled ends.

Use 1 ⁄ 4 -in. shims to space the tabletop boards ( 1 ⁄ 2 -in. shims for the

seats), hold the boards in place with a pipe clamp, and check that they’re

aligned squarely at the end. Then, mark the remaining screw locations

and bore the screwholes in the cleats. With a sot wood like cedar, you

don’t need pilot holes in the top pieces.

CUTTING

THE LAP JOINT

Set the depth of cut of your circular saw blade

equal to half the thickness of your stock, and

cut a series of kerfs in the waste area of the

joint. Make sure that the saw is set accurately

by making tests on scrap wood. Remove the

remaining waste with a sharp chisel.

Clamp a pair of legs to each cleat, bore 3 ⁄ 8 -in. holes for

the carriage bolts, and install the bolts. Place each brace

in position and check that the legs are square to the

top before securing the braces. Bore the 3 ⁄ 8 -in. lagbolt

clearance hole through the legs ﬁ rst. Then, follow with a

pilot hole in the brace end. At er installing the lagbolt and

washer, bore a clearance hole in the opposite brace end

and drive a 3 1 ⁄ 2 -in. screw into the center top piece.

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