TemariKaiToolKit-12MasuKagari.pdf

TemariKai ToolKit - Masu Kagari (Stitch) / Closest English Equivalent: Square/Grow Stitch

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Masu kagari is traditionally known as a square or polygon stitch, increasing or growing out from the center. The most

common application is a square shape but it can be any polygon. The actual design of the stitching sequence is obviously

quite simple; it's maintaining a regular, even outcome and precise shape as its worked that can be challenging. This is not

recommended as a starting stitch element for a beginner; it helps to have a bit of experience in general temari making.

When stitching a polygon, there needs to be a marking line for each corner. So, for example, to stitch a square there

needs to be four intersecting marking lines, such as the pole of a simple 4 or 8 division, or the 8 point center of an 8

combination division. Using an 8 combination when starting out can be helpful since the marking lines provide additional

sight-lines and reference points.

It helps to place a pin on the starting line since being able to count rows clearly in the center is

difficult, and having the same number of sides on the shape is important for balance. Enter the

thread as shown on line 1, close to the center and just to the left of the marking line.

Lay the working thread from Line 1 to Line 2. Notice that the thread is parallel to the outer marking

line of the face square, as well as the inner marking line between 2-3 and 1-4. Turn the ball so that

you can take a stitch on Line 2. Always lay the thread where you want it to go, then take the stitch

to keep it there.Repeat and take a stitch on line 3.

Repeat again and take a stitch on line 4. Note that the previous threads are laying parallel to the

square marking lines, and that the angles formed are sharp, clean and true. Take note that the

needle is perpendicular to the marking line as the stitch is taken. It's important to maintain this on

each stitch to keep the angles sharp, as well as taking a small stitch yet deep enough into the mari

base to hold it in place.

Repeat and take a stitch on line 1 - which is the starting point. That ends the first round. Filling the shape is a series of

concentric rounds, and they need to build around each other but not "spiral" out from the center. Note again that the needle

is perpendicular to the marking line and not angled "upwards" as this round completes and steps up for the next round.

Repeat this sequence until the required number of rows are completed. This example shows 4 rows. Be sure to check as

you work to be sure that the sides are equal and even, and angles are sharp. Masu can also be worked with an open

center; follow the same procedures, except start the first row a given distance from the center.

Keeping the shape even and regular is the main challenge with Masu Kagari. Some extra hints that can help are

*) Use the marking lines to sight parallel and perpendicular *) Set some "landscape" pins so that you have working targets

to check against as you work. *) When working more than one shape per temari, work several rows of each face in

rotation rather than working all one shape at a time. This way you can check how the size and shape is progressing and

adjust or correct as needed, to be sure that the shapes are even around the temari. *) Always check that your marking

lines are in place and have not skewed as you handle the ball, before you take a stitch. *) Groom your threads as you go

and correct mistakes early. They grow as you work and may not be adjustable after you've invested more time and effort.

This is a temari made with both Masu and Bara elements. The Masu

are worked on the 4 point intersections with the vertical marking lines

and the equator.

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