BED AND STORAGE BOXES-pudlo.pdf

BED AND STORAGE

BOXES

A platform bed that's more than just a place to sleep.

Beds are for sleeping, right? Well, not if you're a kid. If

you're a kid, bed is the place to read, dream, plot and

scheme—or just while away a rainy afternoon. It's gossip

central after school is out and the intensive care unit during

a bout with the flu. It's the place to return to when the day is

done—and sometimes, it's just the best place to be alone.

Now that you know it's special, the job is to build a bed

that's up to snuff. Our design takes care of all the basics,

with a little extra just for fun. It's made of plywood and

poplar and we've designed it to go together without a

cabinet shop full of clamps. Underneath, there's ample

storage, with enough space for a pile of games, books and

the family cat. As for good looks, we've incorporated a

strong but simple visual theme that matches the rest of our

bedroom suite.

Building The Headboard

First, cut 1 1/2 x 3 1/2-in. poplar to length for the

headboard stiles, mullions and top rail. To make

accurate cuts with a circular saw, use a Speed

Square to guide the cut (Photo 1) . Position the

square the appropriate distance from the cutline

based on your saw's base plate. Then, clamp the

square in place.

1--Crosscut the 1 1/2-in.-

thick poplar headboard

pieces to length. A square

clamped to the work helps

guide the cut.

Prepare the stock for the wide bottom rail by

crosscutting the available widths a few inches

longer than finished dimension. Apply glue to the

mating edges of each piece and use clamps to

pull the joints tight. Add clamps across the

thickness of the assembly at each seam–at the

ends especially–to help keep the boards aligned

(Photo 2) .

After about 20 minutes, scrape off any excess

glue, and let the glue set for at least 1 hour before

removing the clamps. Cut the glued-up panel to

finished length using a straightedge guide

clamped across the work to guide your circular

saw.

2--Apply glue to the wide

headboard rail pieces and

clamp. Use clamps at the

ends to help keep the faces

aligned.

Mark the locations of joining plate slots for the

headboard joints. Note that these joints are

formed by a double row of plates. Using a flat

table as the registration surface, hold both the

joiner and workpiece against the table and cut the

slots nearest one face (Photo 3) . Then, flip each

piece over to cut the remaining slots.

3--To cut the double plate

slots, use a flat surface to

side. Then, flip over work for

remaining slots.

To cut the headboard panel grooves, first dry

assemble the headboard with joining plates and

use clamps to hold the joints tight. Install a 1/4-in.

piloted slotting cutter in your router (Bosch cutter

No. 85520, arbor No. 82811) with the pilot bearing

mounted on the top of the bit arbor. Rout a 1/4-

in.-wide x 1/2-in.-deep groove around each panel

opening and 1/2 in. from the stock face (Photo 4) .

4--Dry assemble the

headboard with plates and

install clamps. Rout the

panel grooves with a piloted

slotting bit.

Flip the headboard over, and again run the router

around each opening to finish the grooves. Before

routing the actual headboard stock, make a test

groove in a 1 1/2-in.-thick block to make sure your

router is set up correctly.

Disassemble the headboard parts and use a

sharp chisel to square the rounded slot ends left

by the router (Photo 5) . Cut the 1/2-in.-thick

plywood panels to size, lightly sand them and

thoroughly dust them off.

5--After the grooves have

been routed, disassemble

the headboard and use a

sharp chisel to square the

rounded ends.

Spread glue in the headboard joint slots and on

all joining plates. Insert the plates and join the

mullions to the wide rail. Slide the panels in place

(Photo 6) and install the top rail. Position the

stiles and clamp the assembly. Compare opposite

diagonal measurements to check that it's square.

If the measurements are different, adjust the

clamps until they're the same.

6--Slide the panels into

place, and join the top rail to

the mullions. Finish the

assembly by joining the

stiles to the rail ends.

Cut a piece of 3/4-in.-thick poplar to size for the

headboard cap. Secure the cap to the top of the

headboard using glue and nails (Photo 7) . Set

the nailheads below the surface and fill the holes

with wood filler. Sand the entire headboard with

120-, 150- and 180-grit sandpaper, dusting off the

assembly thoroughly between grits. Carefully

ease all sharp edges when you sand.

7--Use glue and finish nails

to attach the 3/4-in.-thick

poplar cap to the

headboard. Set the nails

and fill the nail holes.

Storage Boxes

The main support for the bed is provided by two

back-to-back storage box units. Use your circular

saw guided by a straightedge to cut the plywood

parts for these boxes–a fine-tooth blade will

minimize tearout (Photo 8) .

8--To cut the plywood

storage box pieces, guide

your circular saw with a

straightedge clamped to the

orkpiece.

Mark the locations of joining plate slots in the box

parts and use your plate joiner to cut the slots.

Clamp guides and fences to the panels and

worktable to help register the plate joiner when

making these cuts (Photo 9) . When you cut the

slots in the end of a panel, you can use your

worktable as the registration surface (Photo 10) .

9--Clamp a guide across the

top and bottom panels of the

storage boxes to help locate

the plate joiner when cutting

the slots.

10--Use your worktable as a

registration surface when

cutting the slots in the

storage box partition panels.

To minimize the need for clamps, some of the

plate joints in the bed are used only to align the

joint, and screws are used in place of glue. Use

dry plates to assemble the partitions, back panels

and top and bottom panels (Photo 11) . Then

install screws to hold the parts together (Photo

12) .

11--Install the plates and

position the partitions

followed by the backs.

Finally, place the top panel

in position.

12--With all parts aligned,

bore screwholes through the

top and secure the panel.

Turn the assembly over and

fasten the bottom.

Spread glue in the plate slots and on the joining

plates for the end pieces. Position the ends and

use 6d finish nails to hold the joints tight (Photo

13) .

Rip strips of 3/4-in. poplar to a width of 7/8 in. for

the facing. Cut the pieces to length using a

miterbox and backsaw.

13--Use 6d finish nails in

place of clamps to hold the

ends tightly in place while

the glue on the joining plates

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: