Anniversary Table-stol.pdf

Anniversary Table

The second in our furniture series commemorating 100 years of PM.

In the February issue we introduced the first piece in the

POPULAR MECHANICS 100th anniversary furniture

series--our elegant mahogany side chair . Now it's time to

expand the theme with a project that's sure to capture your

imagination--and everyone else's attention: a stunning table

to match the chair .

Like our chair, the table is built of mahogany and features

detailing in wenge--a dark, dense African wood. But what

really sets this table apart are the magnificent surfaces of

pomele sapele veneer. This highly figured veneer creates

planes of light that appear to have a life of their own. The

panels change appearance as you walk around the table to

produce a sense of movement and depth that's truly

dazzling. This is a table that can serve as the centerpiece

of a room or as an accent to an already established decor.

If you use it as a dining table, it will comfortably seat four to

six adults.

MATERIALS LIST--TABLE

Key No. Size and description (use)

A 1 3/4 x 27-3/4 x 57-3/4" MDF (top core)

B as reqd. pomele sapele (top veneer)

C as reqd. mahogany (bottom veneer)

D1 2

3/16 x 9/32 x 27-3/8" wenge (inlay)

D2 2

3/16 x 9/32 x 57-3/4" wenge (inlay)

E1 2

13/16 x 1-1/8 x 30" mahogany (edge)

E2 2

13/16 x 1-1/8 x 60" mahogany (edge)

F1 2

3/16 x 1 x 26-3/4" hardwood (spline)

F2 2

3/16 x 1 x 58-3/4" hardwood (spline)

2-1/4 x 2-1/4 x 27-11/16" mahogany (leg)

H* 4

1/2 x 2-1/4 x 2-1/4" wenge (foot)

1 x 3-1/2 x 25-5/8" mahogany (apron)

1 x 3-1/2 x 55-5/8" mahogany (apron)

3/16 x 1-5/8 x 23-9/16" wenge (decorative

panel)

3/16 x 1-5/8 x 27-11/16" wenge (decorative

panel)

K1 2

3/16 x 1-7/8 x 18-5/8" wenge (decorative

panel)

K2 2

3/16 x 1-7/8 x 48-5/8" wenge (decorative

panel)

as reqd. pomele sapele (decorative panel veneer)

1 x 3-1/2 x 5" maple (corner block)

N 16 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

O 14 1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

P 14 3/4" No. 8 fh woodscrew

Q** 14 tabletop fastener

R 16 1" No. 8 fh woodscrew

Misc.: Veneer tape; plastic-resin glue; kraft paper; 120-, 220-,

and 320-grit sandpaper; 4/0 steel wool; Waterlox Original

Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech Ave.,

Cleveland, OH 44105).

*Finished dimension. Cut oversize and trim after assembly.

**No. 21650, available from Rockler Woodworking and

Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN55340.

Wenge and pomele sapele veneers are available

from various mail-order wood dealers. One such

supplier is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle

St. N., Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada

N3H 5M2; 800-265-2759; www.amwoodinc.com.

In addition to the figured veneer, you'll need a

small amount of plain mahogany veneer for the

bottom face of the table's top panel.

Our figured veneer top is made up of several

sheets placed edge to edge. You'll find that the

individual pieces are sold in the sequence that

they're cut from the log. This gives you control

over the repetitive pattern created by the

assembled veneer sheets. On our tabletop, we

used a book match pattern, in which every other

sheet of veneer is flipped over to create a mirror

image of the adjacent sheet.

Stack all top veneer pieces and cut them

at one time. Align the grain and use a

straight board to guide the veneer saw.

Top Construction

Begin by cutting the 3/4-in. MDF (medium-density

fiberboard) core stock to size for the top panel.

Cut the core a few inches longer and wider than

finished dimensions. We used four sheets of

veneer, with the grain running across the tabletop,

to cover our panel. Whether you choose to run it

across or parallel to the length of the top, position

a seam at the center with an equal number of

pieces to either side.

Join adjacent sheets of veneer with

lengths of veneer tape across seam. Add

tape along seam to hold joint tight.

Prepare to cut the sheets to uniform size by

placing them in a stack. Arrange the pieces so

that the grain pattern is aligned, and mark the

outline of the cuts on the top sheet.

Use a veneer saw to cut the stack (Photo 1).

Guide the flat side of the saw along a straight

piece of 3/4-in. hardwood or plywood. Make light

passes to keep from tearing the delicate edges.

Make the crossgrain cuts first, followed by cuts

along the grain that will determine the seams. Use

the same technique to cut the mahogany veneer

for the bottom face.

Lay out the sheets and check that each seam is

tight. If necessary, adjust the edges with a block

plane. Use perforated paper veneer tape to hold

the sheets together. Moisten 6-in. lengths of tape

with a damp sponge and place them across the

first seam, spaced about 4 to 6 in. apart. Next,

place a strip of tape along the length of the seam

(Photo 2). Tape the remaining seams. If splits

occur, use veneer tape to repair them. Prepare

the bottom veneer using the same technique.

Use a foam roller to spread glue on the

core. Then, carefully invert the core onto

the bottom veneer face.

Use battens spaced about 6 in. apart to

apply pressure across the veneer

assembly. Clamp from the center out.

Trim the top panel to size and use a

router to cut the inlay rabbet around the

perimeter.

Apply glue to the rabbet and use masking

tape to clamp the inlay to the panel. Sand

the inlay flush to the top.

To glue the veneer to the core, you'll need two

cauls of 3/4-in. plywood that are the same size as

the panel core. You'll also need 22 straight 2 x 4

battens--one pair every 6 in.--to span across the

core on the top and bottom, and some kraft paper

or newspaper to place between the cauls and

veneer faces.

Prepare for veneering by placing straight 2 x 4

support rails between two sawhorses, and laying

the bottom row of battens along the rails.

Position a 2-in. veneer shim in the center of each

batten, and then place the bottom plywood caul

over the battens. The veneer shims ensure

adequate pressure at the center of the panel.

Spread paper over the caul and place the

mahogany bottom veneer face, tape side down,

over the paper.

After routing spline grooves and cutting

mahogany edge strips, test fit splines.

Then glue edging one piece at a time.

We used plastic-resin glue for our panel because

it has a long open time. Use a foam roller to

evenly spread glue onto one face of the core

(Photo 3). Invert the core onto the bottom veneer

face and align the edges. Roll glue onto the top of

the core and position the top veneer face, tape

side up. Cover the veneer with paper and the top

caul, and then add the battens. Place a veneer

shim under the center of each batten and, starting

at the center of the panel, clamp each pair of

battens at both ends (Photo 4).

Install wenge feet with screws and glue.

Cut feet about 1/16 in. oversize and sand

flush after installation.

Let the glue set overnight before removing the

clamps. Peel off as much paper as possible and

use a cabinet scraper or finish sander to complete

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