Bedside night table-nocny stolik.pdf

Bedside Manner

A night table to match our 100th anniversary bedroom suite.

While a bed and dresser are the main components of any

bedroom suite, today's well-appointed chamber isn't

complete without a pair of night tables to flank the bed. Our

design complements the bigger pieces, yet differs enough

to create some eye-catching interest. As for utility, there's

room for a lamp, clock and phone on the top, a drawer for

pens and paper, plus an ample shelf for books, magazines

or a laptop computer. And, by lengthening the legs below

the bottom shelf, you can use the design as an end table or

lamp table for your living room or family room.

To match the other pieces in our anniversary furniture

series, our solid mahogany night table has wenge detailing

and inlays, and decorative panels veneered with highly

figured pomele sapele. The veneer and lumber are

available from a number of mail-order supply houses. One

excellent source for both solid lumber and veneer is A&M

Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St. N., Box 32040,

Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2;

ww.amwoodinc.com.

MATERIALS LIST--NIGHTSTAND

Key No.

Size and description (use)

1-3/4 x 1-3/4 x 22-3/4" mahogany

(leg)

1/8 x 1/8 x 22-3/4" wenge (inlay)

3/4 x 1-3/4 x 1-3/4" wenge (foot)

3/4 x 12-3/4 x 16-1/4" MDF (side

core)

12-3/4 x 16-1/4" mahogany veneer

12-3/4 x 16-1/4" pomele sapele

veneer

1 x 1-3/4 x 12-3/4" mahogany

(side rail)

3/4 x 1-3/4 x 19" mahogany

(bottom rail)

3/4 x 4 x 19" mahogany (back rail)

3/4 x 14-1/4 x 17-1/2" mahogany

plywood (shelf)

3/4 x 15-7/8 x 20-1/4" MDF (top

core)

15-7/8 x 20-1/4" pomele sapele

veneer

15-7/8 x 20-1/4" mahogany veneer

1/8 x 1/8 x 20-1/4" wenge (inlay)

1/8 x 1/8 x 15-3/4" wenge (inlay)

13/16 x 1-1/8 x 22-1/2" mahogany

(edge band)

13/16 x 1-1/8 x 17-3/8" mahogany

(edge band)

3/8 x 13/16 x 20-1/4" mahogany

(edge band)

3/4 x 31-5/16 x 17-3/8" mahogany

(drawer face)

1/2 x 2-1/2 x 13-1/4" maple

(drawer side)

1/2 x 1-3/4 x 16-1/2" maple

(drawer back)

(drawer bottom)

W as reqd. No. 20 plate

X 3 1/2" No. 8 rh woodscrew

Y 4 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

Z1** 1 Drawer pull

Z2** 1 Drawer slide (pair)

Misc.: Glue; 120-, 220-, 320-grit sandpaper; 4/0

steel wool; Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

(Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech Ave.,

Cleveland, OH 44105).

*Finished dimensions, cut oversize and trim flush.

**Pull, No. 35485, and slide, No. 41088, available

from Rockler Woodworking and Hardware, 4365

Willow Dr., Medina, MN 55340.

Note: Cut all veneer and core panels at least 1"

oversize. Trim after the glue sets.

1 1/4 x 12-1/4 x 16-1/2" plywood

Making The Legs

Rip and crosscut 1-3/4-in.-thick stock to size for

the legs. Then, install a straight bit in the router

table and use it to cut the 1/8 x 1/8-in. rabbet at

the leg corners for the wenge inlay.

To make the inlay, clamp a rip fence to your band

saw and cut slightly oversize 5/32-in.-thick strips

of wenge stock (Photo 1). Then, rip these pieces

into square inlay strips and crosscut them to

length. Apply a small bead of glue to a leg rabbet

and position one of the wenge strips. Use

masking tape to clamp it in place (Photo 2), and

repeat the process for each inlay. When the glue

has set, use sandpaper or a scraper to trim the

strips flush.

Clamp a fence to your band saw and rip

5/32-in.-square pieces of wenge for the

leg-corner and top inlay.

Next, cut 3/4-in.-thick wenge into 1-3/4-in.-square

blocks for the table feet. Bore and countersink a

screwhole in the center of each block and secure

the blocks with glue and screws (Photo 3). Then,

use your table saw or a sharp plane to cut the

3/8-in. chamfer around the bottom edges of each

foot.

Veneering

Cut veneer sheets to size for the side and top

panels. Since the pomele sapele veneer is quite

expensive, use plain sliced mahogany veneer for

the inner surfaces. When preparing the veneer,

Glue the inlay strips into the leg-corner

rabbets. Place masking tape every 2 in. to

clamp the strip to the leg.

plan to make the panels about 1 in. larger than

finished dimension--you'll trim them to exact size

when the veneering is done.

Cut the veneer for both the side and top panels,

using a straightedge to guide the veneer saw

(Photo 4). Make a series of light passes to cut

through the sheets. If you press too hard, you run

the risk of tearing or splitting the delicate veneer.

Then, cut 3/4-in.-thick MDF (medium-density

fiberboard) to the same size as the veneer for the

panel cores, and prepare two similar-size cauls

from 3/4-in.-thick MDF, plywood or other flat

stock.

Glue and screw 3/4-in.-thick wenge foot

blocks to the legs. Then, use a table saw

or plane to chamfer each foot.

Begin with the side panels. You can easily press

two or even four of these small panels at one

time. Begin by applying glue to one face of one of

the core panels (Photo 5). Invert the core onto

one of the veneer sheets and apply glue to the

exposed surface. Carefully position the veneer

sheet on the second side. Repeat the process for

each panel. Stack the panels and place the cauls

on the top and bottom of the pile. Use kraft or wax

paper sheets between each panel assembly and

also between the panels and cauls.

Apply clamps to the stack, beginning in the center

and working toward the edges (Photo 6). Use as

many clamps as you can fit around the stack to

ensure maximum clamping pressure. Then,

veneer the tabletop. Let the glue set for at least 2

hours, separate the panels and allow them to air-

dry overnight. Use a cabinet scraper or

sandpaper to remove any paper or glue on the

veneered faces, and trim the panels to finished

size.

Use a straightedge to guide the veneer

saw. Make light passes to avoid splitting

or tearing the delicate veneer.

Use a foam roller to spread glue onto the

cores. Aim for an even coating and do not

leave pools of glue.

Arrange the panels in a stack with a layer

of kraft or wax paper between each. Use

as many clamps as possible.

The Sides And Shelf

Cut the side rails to size, mark the joining plate

positions, and cut the slots (Photo 7). Apply glue

to the slots, plates and mating edges, join a rail to

each panel and clamp until the glue sets. Next,

lay out and cut the joining plate slots for the

leg/panel joints and assemble the table sides

(Photo 8).

Mark the locations of the rail mortises in the side

assemblies and use a router with a spiral up-

cutting bit and edge guide to cut the joints.

Remember to take two or three passes to cut the

full mortise depth. With the routing done, finish

the joints by squaring the ends of each mortise

with a sharp chisel (Photo 9).

Cut plate slots in the side panels and

bottom side rails. Hold the joiner and work

against a table to register the cuts.

Cut 3/4-in. mahogany stock to size for the front

and back rails. Install a dado blade in the table

saw to cut the tenons on the rail ends (Photo 10).

Readjust the blade height to cut the shoulders of

each tenon. Test the fit of the tenons in their

joints. If a joint is too tight, you can sand a tenon

cheek lightly until it fits. If a joint is too loose, you

can glue a veneer shim to the tenon cheek.

Cut the bottom shelf panel to size, then mark and

cut the joining plate slots in the panel edges. Cut

the mating slots in the bottom rails, then join the

rails to the panel (Photo 11).Cut the plate slots in

the table sides for the bottom shelf joint (Photo

12). This job is easy if you clamp a straight board

to the side to act as a guide in locating the plate

After gluing the bottom rails to the sides,

use plates to join the sides and rails to the

table legs.

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