display cabinet 2.pdf

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D ISPLAY C ABINET

If you think elegant projects have to be time-consuming and hard to build, take a closer

look at this versatile display cabinet that can be built in one weekend!

great in just about any room of your house,

including your shop. It's an easy-to-build project

that can be completed in one weekend with a

minimum of carpentr y tools. For example, in

place of the more traditional (and complicated)

mortise and tenon joints on the doors, we used

simple bridle joints that can be cut entirely on a

table saw. We'll show you step by step how to set

up your saw for this simple method of joiner y.

Also, we've included plenty of design options

that will allow you to custom build this project

to your own taste. Choose between solid wood

or glass for the doors and shelves, and then mix

and match different types of hardwood to create

a unique overall look to the project. In our shop

version of the cabinet, we used a combination of

cherr y and ash. See photo below.

HARDWARE

We ordered our glass from a local glass shop after the door

frames had been built. The shelf supports, double ball catches,

and wood plugs are all fairly common, and if you can’t find

them locally, you can order them from a variety of online wood-

working supply catalogs.

We ordered most of our hardware from Lee Valley

(www.leevalley.com). The square plate pulls (part no. 01A52.20)

went on the drawers. The vertical ring pulls (part no. 01A52.61)

were used on the doors. You can also order the 2" x 1 3 / 8 "

antique brass hinges (part no. 00E11.07).

From Woodsmith Magazine

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H ere's a compact wall cabinet that will look

Doors are held shut

with double ball catches

at top and bottom of case

TOP

" hanging cleat

provides place to

screw cabinet to wall

#/4

Top, bottom and

fixed shelf are

trapped in dadoes

and stand proud "

!/8

L-shaped

shelf support

OVERALL DIMENSIONS:

24”W x 5!/8”D x 31”H

Doors can

be built

with wood

panels, see

page 33

"-thick glass

shelves with

rounded (pencil-

style) edges

2" x 1 "

antique

brass hinge

#/8

FIXED SHELF

#8 x 1 " Fh screw

with "-dia. wood plug

#/8

!/4

"-thick

glass pane

!/8

DRAWER

FRONT

Drawer divider

is secured

with screws

BOTTOM

Antique

brass

ring pull

with

vertical

plate

Drawers built

with locking

rabbet joint

DRAWER

SIDE

Case sides

are chamfered

top and bottom

Antique brass

ring pull with

square plate and

escutcheon pins

GLASS

STOP

CUTTING DIAGRAM

Rabbet for

glass routed

after frame

is assembled

#/4

" x 7" - 96" Cherry (4.7 Bd. Ft.)

Doors joined

with grooved

bridle joint,

see page 9

DOOR

RAIL

#/4

" x 7" - 96" Cherry (4.7 Bd. Ft.)

!/2

" x 4" - 72" Cherry (2 Sq. Ft.)

ALSO NEEDED: One

24” x 48” sheet of

” cherry plywood

JJJJ

!/4

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES

A Sides (2)

#/4

x 5 - 31

I Drawer Frts./Bks. (4)

!/2

x 3

&/ 1 6

- 10

!#/16

• (2)

!/8

"-Thick Glass (8

%/16

” x 21

!/4

”)

B Top/Btm./Fixed Shelf (3)

#/4

x 5

!/8

- 23

J Drawer Sides (4)

!/2

x 3

&/ 1 6

- 4

!/2

"-Long Brads

• (2 pr.) 2” x 1

!/2

C Drawer Divider (1)

#/4

x 5 - 3

!/2

K Drawer Btms. (2)

!/4

ply. - 4

#/16

x 10

!/4

” Hinges w/Screws

• (2) Ant. Brass Square-Plate Ring Pulls

• (2) Ant. Brass Vertical-Plate Ring Pulls

• (4) Double Ball Catches w/Screws

*Note: The supplies listed above are for the

cabinet design with the glass-paneled doors.

#/8

D Hanging Cleat (1)

#/4

x 2

!/2

- 23

!/4

L Drawer Stops (2)

!/4

- 10

&/8

E Back (1)

!/4

ply. - 23

!/4

x 22

&/8

• (4) #8 x 1

!/4

" Fh Woodscrews

F Door Stiles (4)

#/4

x 1

#/4

- 24

!/8

• (4)

#/8

”-dia. Wood Plugs

G Door Rails (4)

#/4

x 1

#/4

- 11

#/16

• (2)

!/4

"-Thick Glass (3

&/8

" x 22

!/4

H Glass Stop (6)

!/4

- 22 rgh.

• (8) L-Shaped Shelf Supports

From Woodsmith Magazine

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

All rights reser ved

!/4

• (1 pkg.)

#/8"

chamfer

TOP

Case

The basic case of this dis-

play cabinet is quite simple

— just a pair of sides that

trap a top, bottom and a sin-

gle, fixed shelf, as you can

see in Fig. 1. Later, you’ll

add a vertical divider to cre-

ate the drawer openings, a

cleat for hanging the cabi-

net, and a plywood back.

But for now, you can focus

on the basic case pieces.

SIDES, TOP, BOTTOM & SHELF.

The first thing to do is cut

the sides (A) and the top ,

bottom and shelf (B) to size

from 3 / 4 "-thick stock. (I chose to

build this cabinet in cherr y, but it

would also look great in other woods

like oak or maple.) Before you rip the

top, bottom and shelf to width, note

that they’re slightly wider than the

sides so they will stand 1 / 8 " proud, as

shown in the photo at left and Fig.

1b.

The sides require the most work,

so I started with them. First, I cut a

chamfer on both ends, as shown in

Fig. 2. This is a fairly deep chamfer,

so instead of cutting it in multiple

passes with a router bit, I cut it on the

table saw using an auxiliar y miter

gauge fence to support the piece.

You can leave the auxiliar y fence in

place while you cut the dadoes to hold

the top, bottom, and shelf, as shown

in Figs. 1a and 3. And to make sure

the dadoes line up across from each

other, you’ll want to either add a stop

to the end of the auxiliar y fence or

use the rip fence as a stop, as I did in

Fig. 3. (You can do this because the

cuts don’t go all the way through, so

there are no waste pieces to kick back

at you.)

The last thing to do on the side

pieces is drill the series of 3 / 8 "-deep

holes for the L-shaped shelf supports

that will hold the glass shelves.

Before the case can be assembled,

you’ll need to do a little work on the

top, bottom and shelf. First, the front

edge of each needs a 1 / 16 " chamfer,

as indicated in Fig. 1b. Then in the

shelf and bottom pieces, you’ll want to

drill the two counterbored shank

holes that will hold the drawer divider.

!/2"

/2"

FIXED SHELF

!/16

" chamfer

!/4

#/8"

-dia.

holes

deep

!/2

!/4"

#/4"

NOTE: All case pieces

are " solid wood

SIDE

#/4"

#/4

BOTTOM

!/2"

SIDE

FIXED

SHELF

FRONT VIEW

Drill counterbored

holes for divider

before assembly

!/2"

#/8"

-dia. counter-

bore

!/4"

deep

#/4

!/8"

{ Though this case

has some unique

features, it’s built

with basic dado

construction. For

more on cutting

dadoes and

grooves, see our

Woodworking

Basics series at

PlansNOW.com

#/8"

!/8"

!/4"

ply.

!/16"

chamfer

#/16"

shank hole

BOTTOM

SIDE SECTION VIEW

Aux.

fence

Auxiliary miter

gauge fence

SIDE

#/4"

SIDE

Dado

blade

END VIEW

Aux.

fence

Aux.

fence

#/8"

Dado blade

#/4"

Blade

tilted 45°

SIDE

!/4"

Scrap block

supports

router

base

Square corner s

with chisel

SHELF

SIDE

Routing direction

NOTE: Size rabbet to

hold

!/4"

plywood back

Rabbet

bit

Support

block

Waste

#/8"

From Woodsmith Magazine

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

All rights reser ved

HANGING

CLEAT

!/4"

!/2"

(It would be a bit awkward to do this

after assembly.)

Gluing this case together isn’t hard.

Just remember the top, bottom and

shelf stand proud in front of the case

and are flush in back.

After the glue on the case is dr y,

the next thing to do is rout the rabbet

for the 1 / 4 " plywood back panel. As

you can see in Figs. 4 and 4a, I did

this with a hand-held router, using

scrap blocks to help support the

router base so it wouldn’t tip. Then I

came back and cleaned up the cor-

ners with a chisel (Fig. 4b).

DRAWER DIVIDER . Before you cut the

back to size, there are two other

pieces to make. First I cut a drawer

divider (C) to fit between the shelf

and bottom, as shown in Fig. 5. But

note that the front of the divider sets

back 1 / 8 ", just like the sides (Fig. 5a).

After screwing the divider in place

(Fig. 5a), the screws can be covered

with 3 / 8 "-dia. wood plugs. (I’d recom-

mend you use face grain plugs here

so they’ll be less noticeable.)

HANGING CLEAT . The next piece I

added was a hanging cleat (D) , as

you can see in Fig. 5. This way, when

hanging the cabinet on the wall later,

I had a 3 / 4 "-thick solid-wood piece to

screw through, instead of the 1 / 4 " ply-

wood back.

Making the cleat is a two-step

process. It’s cut to fit between the rab-

bets for the back, but to get it to fit

flush with the back, you’ll need to cut

a rabbet around three edges of its

front face, as shown in Figs. 5b and 6.

The second step is just cutting

another rabbet — this time, to match

L-shaped

glass shelf

support

BACK

( " ply.)

!/4

&/8"

-thick

glass shelf

with

polished,

"pencil-style"

edge

!/4"

3”

&/ 8

#/8"

wood

plug

#8 x 1

Fh screw

!/4"

DRAWER

DIVIDER

SIDE

NOTE:

Back cut to size

after hanging

cleat is added

!/2"

!/4"

ply.

TOP

CLEAT

Divider even

with sides

of case

#/8"

wood

plug

#8 x 1

Fh screw

!/4"

#/8"

BACK

SIDE

SECTION

VIEW

#/8"

SIDE

the rabbets in the case for the back,

as you can see in Fig. 7.

BACK . When the cleat has been

glued in place, you can cut the ply-

wood back (E) to size and glue it into

the rabbet (Fig. 5b).

GLASS SHELVES . You really don’t need

to order the glass for the shelves until

you order the glass for the doors later.

But I’ll just mention here that I used

1 / 4 "-thick glass that had polished,

“pencil-style” edges.

Aux.

fence

Aux.

fence

CLEAT

Aux.

fence

CLEAT

Dado

blade

Dado

blade

END VIEW

Aux. fence

NOTE:

Cut rabbet to hold

" plywood back

Aux.

fence

NOTE: Remaining

t ongue should fit

rabbet in case,

see Fig. 5b

Aux.

F ence

!/4

#/8"

NOTE:

Rabbet cut

on back face

NOTE:

Rabbet cut

on front face

!/4"

ply.

!/4"

ply.

From Woodsmith Magazine

One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.

All rights reser ved

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