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E 971 DL-10 Tuniken EN
Burda "Easy fashion" E 971 Download Pattern
Tunic Dresses – Instructions
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Length from waist:
A 59 cm (23 1 4 ins), B, D, E 47 cm
(18 1 2 ins), C 41 cm (16 1 4 ins)
B
A, B, C Pattern pieces 1 to 5
D Pattern pieces 1 to 4, 6 to11
E Pattern pieces 1 to 4
Size 34 222222
Size 36 333333
Size 38 444444
Size 40 555
Size 42 666666
Size 44 777777
Materials:
A, brown print tunic, on page 12
Silk batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide:
sizes 34, 36: 1.45 m (1 3 4 yds), size 38:
1.50 m (1 3 4 yds), size 40: 1.55 m
(1 3 4 yds), size 42: 1.60 m (1 3 4 yds),
size 44: 1.70 m (1 7 8 yds). 0.25 m
( 3 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm
(36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm
(16 ins) long and a special presser
foot. Elastic, about 7 mm ( 1 4 in) wide.
Sewing thread.
A
C
D
E
B, dress with large print flowers, on
page 11
Batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide: with
large print: sizes 34, 36: 1.30 m
(1 1 2 yds), size 38: 1.35 m (1 5 8 yds), size
40: 1.40 m (1 5 8 yds), size 42: 1.50 m
(1 3 4 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (1 3 4 yds),
with small print (contrasting fabric):
0.50 m ( 5 8 yd), for all sizes.
Interfacing and notions, see view A.
A
C
E
B
D
C, dotted tunic, on page 29
Satin with crosswise stretch, 145 cm
(57 ins) wide: size 34, 36: 1.40 m
(1 5 8 yds), size 38: 1.45 m (1 3 4 yds), size
40: 1.50 m (1 3 4 yds), size 42: 1.55 m
(1 3 4 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (1 3 4 yds).
0.25 m ( 3 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785,
90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip,
40 cm (16 ins) long and a special
presser foot. Elastic, 2 cm ( 3 4 in) wide:
sizes 34, 36: 0.80 m ( 7 8 yd), sizes 38,
40: 0.90 m (1 yd), sizes 42, 44: 1.00 m
(1 1 8 yds). 4 eyelets, inner Ø about
5 mm ( 3 16 in). 4 cord end pieces.
Sewing thread.
(1 1 2 yds), size 40: 1.40 m (1 5 8 yds),
sizes 42, 44: 1.50 m (1 3 4 yds).
1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long
and a special presser foot. Sewing
thread.
Important: The pattern pieces do
not include seam and hem allow-
ances.
Cutting out:
The pattern layouts on page 2 show
how to arrange the pattern pieces
on the fabric. The grain arrow mark-
ed on the pattern pieces must run
parallel to the selvages of the fabric.
Recommended fabrics: Lightweight
dress fabrics with or without elastane.
Preparation:
The pattern pieces are printed on
24 sheets of paper each framed by a
thin line. Please wait until all sheets
have been printed. Arrange the
sheets correctly (see the extra sheet
with the overview of printed pages).
Cut each of the sheets along the
thin line at the upper edge and the
right edge, beginning with the
lower left sheet. Stick the pieces
together exactly on the thin lines.
Then cut out the pattern pieces. Fol-
low the different lines for the style
views A, B, C, D and E.
View D only: The tab markings on
pieces 2 and 4 are marked for size
34. Remark the lines accordingly for
the other sizes. The button markings
on piece 7 are for size 34. Remark
them accordingly for the other sizes:
mark the top pair the same distance
from upper edge as for size 34, the
bottom pair is in the same place for
all sizes, mark the other centred in
between.
Views A, B, C,:
1 front yoke on a fold
x2
2 front on a fold
x1
D, red flowered dress, on page 14
Batiste, 150 cm (59 ins) wide: sizes
34, 36: 1.40 m (1 5 8 yds), sizes 38, 40:
1.45 m (1 3 4 yds), size 42, 44: 1.50 m
(1 3 4 yds). Seersucker with lengthwise
stripes (contrasting fabric) , 140 cm
(55 ins) wide: 0.60 m ( 3 4 yd) for all
sizes. 0.65 m ( 7 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon
G 785, 90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invi-
sible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a
special presser foot. 16 buttons.
Sewing thread.
Note: To make up the flowered
dress a lá Johanna (page 22), you
will also need cotton lace trim, 7 mm
( 1 4 in) wide: 1.20 m (1 3 8 yds).
3 back yoke
x4
4 back
x2
5 sleeve
x2
View B only, contrasting fabric:
a) narrow band for front yoke join-
ing seam cut on bias grain, 45 cm
(17 3 4 ins) long, 2 cm ( 3 4 in) wide (incl.
seam allowances),
b) 2 bands for back yoke joining
seams cut on bias grain, each 25 cm
(10 ins) long, 2 cm ( 3 4 in) wide (incl.
seam allowances),
c) bias piping strip for neckline,
95 cm (37 1 2 ins) long altogether, 4 cm
(1 5 8 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances),
d) 2 bias binding strips for lower
sleeve edges, each 55 cm (21 3 4 ins)
long, 4 cm (1 5 8 ins) wide (incl. seam
allowances).
View C only:
e) 2 tie bands (back), each 70 cm
E, Metallic dress, on page 40
Metallic voile broderie anglaise,
135 cm (53 ins) wide: sizes 34, 36:
1.20 m (1 3 8 yds), size 38: 1.25 m
© Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda
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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses
page 2 of 6
Pattern layouts
A, Silk batiste,
140 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
B, Batiste,
140 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
B, Contrasting fabric,
140 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
C, Satin with crosswise
stretch, 145 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
D, Batiste, 150 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
E, Metallic voile, 135 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 40
sizes 42 and 44
D, Seersucker,
striped length-
wise,
140 cm wide,
sizes 34 to 44
Fold fabric as shown in the pattern layout, right side facing in.
(27 3 4 ins) long, 8 cm (3 1 4 ins) wide
(incl. seam allowances),
f) 2 tie bands (sleeves) each 70 cm
(27 3 4 ins) long, 3 cm (1 1 4 ins) wide
(incl. seam allowances).
the pattern layout also of inter-
facing on the same grain line as the
fabric pieces and with seam allow-
ances. Iron interfacing on the wrong
side of the outer yoke pieces.
marked yoke joining lines on the
front and back pieces from * to * .
Hold the bobbin threads and push
the edges of the fabric together
along the threads until they fit the
respective yoke edges. Knot threads.
Distribute gathering evenly (1).
View D:
Batiste:
1 front yoke on a fold
Transfer pattern lines to the fabric:
Lay interfaced yoke pieces right
sides together with respective non-
interfaced pieces, pin on paper pat-
tern pieces again. Transfer pattern
piece outlines (seam and hem lines)
and all other pattern lines and mark-
ings except the grain line to the
wrong fabric side with a tracing
wheel and Burda tracing paper (see
instructions included with the pack).
Use basting thread to transfer abut-
ting lines and tab markings to right
side of fabric for view D: hand-baste
each fabric layer along these lines.
x2
2. Stitch on outer yoke pieces
Pin the front interfaced yoke right
sides together with the upper front
edge, pin the back interfaced yoke
pieces right sides together with the
upper edge of the back pieces. Work
from the wrong side of the front
and the back to stitch exactly be-
2 front on a fold
x1
3 back yoke
x4
4 back
x2
6 sleeve
x2
9 pocket
x2
Contrasting fabric:
7 front band x2
8 collar x4
9 pocket x2
10 tab (hem) x2
11 tab (sleeve) x2
g) 2 bias binding strips for pockets,
each 16 cm (6 3 8 ins) long, 4 cm
(1 5 8 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances).
2
View E:
1 front yoke on a fold x2
2 front on a fold x1
3 back yoke x4
4 back x2
h) 2 bias strips for armholes, each
23 cm (9 1 8 ins) long, 4 cm (1 5 8 ins)
wide (incl. seam allowances).
right
fabric side
wrong
fabric side
interfacing
Construction:
Place the right fabric sides together
to baste and stitch the seams. Secure
the start and end of the seams by
backstitching.
tween the lines of gathering (2).
Press the allowances onto the yokes.
Remove any gathering threads
which are visible on the right fabric
side of the garment .
Seam and hem allowances:
Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark
seam and hem allowances on the
fabric round the edges of the pat-
tern pieces: for views A, B, D and E
1.5 cm ( 5 8 in) at all seams and edges,
for view C 3 cm (1 1 4 ins) for hems,
2 cm ( 3 4 in) for sleeve hems, 1.5 cm
( 5 8 in) at all other seams and edges.
Cut the fabric pieces on these lines.
A, Brown print dress
1. Gathering
Stitch lines of machine basting (long-
est stitch setting) to each side of the
3. Invisible zip and centre back
seam
Neaten the allowances at the back
edges of the dress. Mark the end
of the slit by making small clips
into the allowances. Open the zip
and push the coil back with your
thumbnail to reveal the seam be-
tween the band and the coil. Place
the open zip right side facing down
1
Interfacing:
Cut out all pieces shaded grey on
© Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda
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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses
page 3 of 6
the shoulder seams. Stitch (7). Press
the seam allowances open.
10
5. Face edge of neckline
Lay the back non-interfaced yoke
pieces (= inside yoke pieces) right
sides together with the front non-
interfaced yoke (= inside yoke
piece), pin the shoulder seams.
3
4
6. Side seams:
Lay the front right sides together
with the back, pin the side seams.
Stitch. Press the seam allowances
open and neaten.
on the right back opening edge. The
distance between the band and the
fabric edge of the seam allowances
is 5 mm ( 3 16 in) = seam allowance
width minus 1 cm ( 3 8 in) band width.
Pin the top end of the zip band in
place at the edge of the seam
allowance. Bottom end of zip will
overhang marked end of opening.
Place the presser foot on the zip so
that the coil is in the notch to the
right of the needle (3). Stitch the zip
in place from the top to the marked
end of the opening. Close the zip.
Place the other zip band face down
on the left back opening edge and
pin in place at the top (4). Open the
zip again. Place the presser foot on
the top end of the zip so that the
coil in in the notch to the left of the
needle (5). Sew the zip in place from
the top to end of opening, then
close the zip. Lay the back pieces
right sides together, pin the centre
7
7. Sleeves
To gather tops of sleeves, stitch
lines of machine basting (longest
stitch setting) to each side of the
marked seam line from • to • . Do
not pull the bobbin threads yet.
Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right
side facing in. Pin the sleeve
seams. Stitch (11). Press seam allow-
ances open and neaten. Neaten
allowance at lower edges of sleeves
and press to inside. Topstitch lower
edges of sleeves 1 cm ( 3 8 in) wide as
marked on the pattern for the elas-
tic casing. Cut two pieces of elastic
each 13 cm (5 1 4 ins) long and insert at
lower edges of sleeves (12), pin ends
Stitch (8). Press the seam allow-
ances open. Press the allowance at
the joining edge to the inside. Lay
the inside yoke right sides to-
gether with the outer yoke, pin
edges of neckline together. Fold
back edges of inside yoke outward
5 mm ( 3 16 in) before opening
11
12
8
9
in place and stitch. Topstitch remain-
der of lower sleeve edges.
5
6
edges, pin in place on edge of
neckline. Fold allowances of dress
at opening edges outward and pin
in place on edge of neckline over
facing (9). Stitch along edge of
neckline. Trim seam allowances,
clip curves. Turn yoke and allow-
ances at opening edges to inside.
Pin yoke in place over joining
seams, turn in edge of yoke and
sew on along zip band. Baste
edges of armholes together (10).
Topstitch yoke close to edge of
neckline and joining seam. Top-
stitch yoke again 7 mm ( 1 4 in) wide.
8. Setting in sleeves
First pin sleeve just along edge of
underarm curve with right sides of
fabric facing. Match the sleeve and
side seams as well as markings 6 on
the sleeves and edges of armholes
(13). Then match the shoulder mark-
ing at the sleeve caps with the
shoulder seams and pin. Hold the
bobbin threads of the lines of
machine basting and push the fabric
of the sleeve cap together until it
back seam from the lower edges to
to the slit mark, turning the loose
lower end of the zip back toward
the seam allowance. Stitch the seam,
end stitching as close as possible to
the last stitch of the zip seams (6).
Press seam allowances open.
13
4. Shoulder seams
Lay the front piece right sides
together with the back pieces. Pin
© Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda
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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses
page 4 of 6
14
11. Double the yoke
Stitch the shoulder seams on the
non-interfaced yoke pieces (= inside
yoke pieces). Press the seam allow-
ances open. Press the allowance at
the joining edges to the inside. Lay
the inside yoke right sides together
with the outside yoke, pin the edges
of the neckline together and stitch
exactly in line of bias piping joining
seam. Trim the seam allowances
(16). Turn the yoke, baste the edges
so that the piping overlaps 5 mm
( 3 16 in) wide (see illustration 17).
Baste the inside yoke over the join-
ing seams, baste the armhole edge
13. Side seams
Lay the front right sides together
with the back, pin the side seams.
Stitch. Press seam the allowances
open and neaten.
fits the edge of the armhole. Pin the
remainder of the sleeve cap in place
(14). Baste the sleeve from the
sleeve side. Try on the dress to check
the fit of the sleeves. Stitch the
sleeves from the sleeve side, begin-
ning over the side seam. Stitch close
to the basting but not over the
basting otherwise it will be difficult
to remove the basting thread after
stitching. Neaten the seam allow-
ances and lay toward the sleeves.
14. Sleeves
To gather tops of sleeves, stitch
lines of machine basting (longest
stitch setting) to each side of the
marked seam line from • to • . Do
not pull the bobbin threads yet.
Cut off the allowances at the lower
edges of the sleeves. Pin the bias
binding strips (d) right sides
together with the lower edges of
the sleeves, stitch 1 cm ( 3 8 in) wide.
Press the seam allowances onto the
binding. Press the allowance at the
other long edge of the binding to
the inside (18). Fold the sleeve
lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin
sleeve seams, go on the pin ends of
binding together, unfolding pressed
edges of binding down again. Stitch
(19). Press seam allowances open
and neaten. Fold the binding half to
the inside and pin in place over the
joining seam. Work from the right
side of the sleeve to stitch close to
the edge of the binding between
the markings (20). Cut two pieces of
elastic each 13 cm (5 1 4 ins) long and
insert into binding, pin ends of elastic
16
9. Hem
Neaten the hem allowance, press to
the inside. Topstitch the edge of the
hem from the right fabric side 7 mm
( 1 4 in) wide.
B, Dress with large print flowers
Construct dress as for view A, steps
1, 2 and 4 .
18
10. Piping, neckline
Fold the bias strip (c) for the piping
in half lengthwise, wrong side
facing in. Press. Pin bias strip right
sides together with edge of neckline
so that the open edges lie on the
seam allowance. Stitch 5 mm ( 3 16 in)
next to fold edge (15).
19
20
17
15
and the back edges together. Top-
stitch close to edge of neckline.
12. Bands
Press the long edges of the bias
strips for the bands (a and b) 5 mm
( 3 16 in) wide to the wrong side – this
will be easy if you use a bias strip
shaping tool (Prym). Pin the bands
over the yoke joining seams. Stitch
the bands in place close to the
edges, catching the inside yoke (17).
Insert invisible zip and stitch centre
back seam as for view A, step 3,
leaving the top ends of the bands
overhanging the edge of the neck-
line.
Finally, fold the top ends of the zip
bands to the inside and sew in place.
in place and stitch. Topstitch close to
remaining edges of binding.
Finish construction of dress as for
view A, steps 8 and 9 .
C, Dotted dress
Construct dress as for view A, steps
1 to 6 but interupt stitching by 2 cm
( 3 4 in) in one side seam at the mark-
ed hem line to insert the elastic.
© Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda
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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses
page 5 of 6
15. Tie bands
Fold the fabric strips (e) in half
lengthwise with the right side of
the fabric facing in. Stitch 3 cm
(1 1 4 ins) next to the fold edge and
across one end each. Trim the
seam allowances, trim diagonally
at the corners (21). Turn the bands.
Press. Baste the open ends of the
bands each on the back armhole
edges below the yoke joining
seam.
the bands.
Set in the sleeves as for view A, step
8.
17. Hem, elastic casing
Neaten the hem allowance, press to
the inside and topstitch 2.5 cm (1 in)
wide for the elastic casing. Use a
safety pin as a bodkin to insert the
elastic through the opening in the
side seam into the edges of the hem.
Sew the ends of the elastic together.
27
28
the edge of the binding in and pin
in place over the joining seam. Work
from the right fabric side of the
pocket to stitch in line of binding
joining seam, catching inside half.
Pin the pockets on the front at the
placement lines and stitch in place
5 mm ( 3 16 in) wide.
D, Red flowered dress
Construct dress as for view A, steps
1 and 2 but when gathering the
front the leave the edge between
the marked band placement lines
ungathered.
Insert invisible zip and stitch centre
back seam as for view A, steps 3 and
4.
21
20. Collar
Lay the interfaced collar pieces (=
undercollar pieces) right sides
together with the non-interfaced
collar pieces. Pin the edges together
and stitch, leaving the joining edges
open. Trim the seam allowances, clip
along the curves (29). Turn the collar
pieces. Press. Baste the joining edges
of the collar together.
16. Sleeves
To gather tops of sleeves, stitch
lines of machine basting (longest
stitch setting) to each side of the
marked seam line from • to • . Do
not pull the bobbin threads yet.
Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right
side facing in. Pin the sleeve
seams. Stitch. Press the seam allow-
ances open and neaten.
Attach the eyelets on the lower
edges of the sleeves as marked on
the pattern, catching in small bits of
interfaced fabric on the wrong side
for reinforcement.
Neaten the allowance the lower
edge of the sleeve and press to in-
side but do not yet stitch.
Fold the bands (f) in half lengthwise,
right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm
( 1 4 in) next to fold edge. Leave a
length of thread hanging. Insert
thread into a darning needle and
knot securely (22). Push the needle
eye first through the fabric tube
(23). Lay bands inside hem allow-
ances, pass the ends out through the
eyelets. Topstitch the lower edges of
the sleeves 1.5 cm ( 5 8 in) wide, catch-
ing the hem allowances (24).
Slip the cord end pieces over the
ends of the bands. Knot the ends of
18. Front band
Stitch the band pieces right sides
together, leaving the upper edge
open. Trim the seam allowances
(25). Turn the band. Press. Pin the
band on the front and the front
yoke at the placement lines. Stitch
the band in place
5 mm ( 3 16 in) next to
edges (26).
19. Pockets
Stitch two pocket
pieces each (of fabric
and contrasting fabric)
right sides together,
leaving the upper
edges open. Trim the
seam allowances, clip
the allowances along
the curves (27). Turn
the pockets. Press. Trim
29
25
For the flowered dress a lá Johanna,
pin lace trim on along the outer
edges of the collar pieces (on the
top collar piece). Stitch the trim in
place close to the edge.
Pin the collar pieces to the edge of
the neckline with the undercollar
underneath. The front edges of the
collar meet in centre front, the back
edges of the collar meet over the
teeth of the zip (30).
Face the edges of the neckline and
stitch the side seams as for view A,
steps 5 and 6. Topstitch the yoke just
once close to the joining seams.
26
22
30
23
off the allowance at the upper edge.
Pin the bias binding strips right sides
together with the upper edges of
the pockets and stitch 1 cm ( 3 8 in)
wide. Press the binding strips up. Lay
the ends of the binding strips
around the edges of the pockets
to the inside (28). Now lay the bind-
ing around the upper edges, turn
24
© Copyright 2008 by Verlag Aenne Burda
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