Arbor - Making an easy Arbor.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - nisaczek

Making an Easy

Arbor

Project Level: Advanced

At first glance, this project

may appear difficult. But if

you approach it as a series of

steps, you'll be surprised to

find that the arbor can be

completed with relative ease.

Lowe's is happy to provide

this information as a service

to you.

Before you get started, check

local building codes and any

neighborhood regulations that

might prevent you from

building a project like this.

Also, contact your local utility

companies so they can locate

any service lines in the area to

be excavated. This project

requires some heavy lifting,

so you may want to have someone to help move pieces during

construction.

The finished project separated the vine

and the house, lowering the potential for

rot; fixed the sinking stoop; and created a

more inviting entryway to the home.

Tool Box

The finished dimensions on the arbor shown are 56 inches

wide, 45 inches deep, and 144 inches tall (including the legs).

• 4 (10-foot) pressure- treated 4 x 4s

• 10 (8-foot) pressure- treated 2 x 4s

• 2 (8-ounce) bottles weatherproof glue

• 5 pounds galvanized deck screws

• 20 (8-foot) pressure- treated lattice strips

• 1 pound galvanized 8d finishing nails

• Weatherproof putty

• 2 (10-foot) 5/4-inch pressure-treated deck boards

• 2 pressure-treated arches

• 1 (6-foot) pressure- treated 1 x 6

• Sandpaper

• Paintbrush

• Primer and exterior paint (optional)

• Gravel

• 4 (40-pound) bags concrete mix

• Skill level: Advanced

Problem 1: When this home was

purchased, a vine was already growing

over and around the front door. Although

the homeowners liked the look, it had

potential to rot the siding on the house by

holding in moisture.

Problem 2: The stoop outside the front

door was sinking. It was originally even

with the sidewalk, but over time it had

dropped several inches.

Step 1: Determine The Size

To determine the size, think three

dimensionally. Proportions are important.

You don't want the arbor to appear too skinny, tall, or narrow. The

wider the arbor is, the taller the arch should be. The inside width

of this arbor is 47 inches. Therefore the arch has a 47-inch

diameter, making it 23 1/2 inches taller than the tops of the

corner posts. You have to calculate how tall the sides should be as

well as where the floor is going to fall in relation to the sides. This

part of the process is very important because it will determine the

dimensions of the finished product.

Step 2: Begin Constructing The

Sides

Construct one side at a time. Install

the side rails (pressure-treated 2 x

4s) on two corner posts (pressure-

treated 4 x 4s) by making mortise

and tenon joints. Glue all joints with

weatherproof wood glue. Check for

squareness using a carpenter's

framing square. Countersink holes through the posts into the

mortise and tenon joints, and insert galvanized deck screws.

Attach clamps, and allow joints to dry overnight. Assemble the

other side as directed above.

Safety Tip: Wear safety

goggles when sanding,

nailing, or using power

tools. Wear a dust mask

when sanding.

Step 3: Make The Lattice Panels

To make the panels, create wood channels that will hold the

lattice strips. To make the channels, rip 2 x 4 stock to

approximately 1 1/2 x 2 1/2 inches, and then cut to the

appropriate lengths to fit the side rails and corner posts. Using a

table saw or router, cut a dado into the ripped stock. Make the

dado twice as wide as the thickness of the lattice strips. This will

allow room to slide the lattice strips when assembling the panels.

Install the channels into the inside of the corner posts and side

rails, securing them with deck screws. Cut the lattice strips long

enough to reach the bottom of each dado from corner post to

corner post and side rail to side rail. Carefully slide each lattice

strip into the channels. After the strips are installed, secure them

with galvanized finishing nails. Tip: The lattice strips can be

fashioned into a basket-weave pattern, set in place at 45-degree

angles, or positioned in a vertical/horizontal arrangement with the

negative space creating squares or rectangles.

Step 4: Construct The Floor

Frame the floor out of pressure-treated 2 x 4s, checking for

squareness. Countersink the screw holes, and attach the joists to

the 4 x 4 posts. Depending on the span of the deck, a center joist

may be necessary to lend stability to the floor. note: If any screws

are going to show after installation, countersink the screws, and

fill the holes with putty. After the floor is framed, install the deck

boards. When determining the position of the deck, keep in mind

that some length of the posts will be sunk in the ground. Unless

you live in an area that has a deep frost zone or high winds, leg

depths of 2 feet should be plenty. Cover the joists with pressure-

treated 5/4-inch deck boards. The end grain of the boards should

point upwards (toward the top of the arbor). This allows rain to

run off quicker, which helps deter cupping and warping. For a neat

appearance, slightly overhang the deck boards (this homeowner

allowed about an inch). Secure boards with galvanized deck

screws. All holes should be countersunk and filled with putty.

Step 5: Make The Arch

Because the arch is fairly complicated, consider hiring a contractor

or millworker to make it for you. Several consulting trips may be

necessary to ensure all measurements and designs are correct.

You may find it useful to take examples of arbors that you've

photographed or gotten from catalogs. note: The arch should be

made out of pressure-treated wood and assembled with

galvanized screws or nails. The number of top rails needs to be

determined as well. This number is flexible, but traditionally an

odd number is preferred. Be sure to tell the millworker that the

holes in the arches for the top rails need to be aligned with each

other and that the bottoms of the arches need to have mortise

joints (see top left photo on the previous page). You should also

discuss delivery time with the millworker. In this case, six weeks

was required. note: Straight 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 boards can be

substituted for the arches. (This may cut your expenses

drastically.)

Step 6: Assemble The Arch

Create tenon joints on the top of all four corner posts to fit the

mortise joints on the arches that the millworker made. The tighter

these joints are, the stronger the construction will be. Join one of

the arches with the fronts of the corner posts. Check the

squareness of the sides in relation to each other using a tape

measure. Once the sides are parallel, glue the joints, and use

clamps to secure them. Drill and countersink holes through the

fronts and backs of both joints; secure with galvanized deck

screws. Repeat this process on the back of the arbor. Let dry

overnight. Once the joints are dry, wrap them with 1 x 6

pressure-treated pine, gluing and nailing in place with galvanized

nails (see illustration). This strengthens and hides the open joints.

Countersink the nails, and fill the holes with weatherproof putty.

Next, insert the top rails. They need to be ripped from 2 x 4s to

the size of the holes in the arches. Their length is determined by

measuring the outside depth of the arches and adding 2 inches.

These extra inches will allow for some overhang on the front and

back of the arbor. Slide the top rails through the holes from the

front to the back, allowing the top rails to extend outside the

arches some. Once the top rails are positioned, secure them from

the top of the arches with galvanized deck screws. Again,

countersink the screws, and fill the holes with putty. Be sure to fill

all remaining holes and knots with weatherproof putty, and sand

smooth.

For strength and stability, the arch of

the arbor is attached to each corner

post with an open mortise and tenon

joint.

The panels are constructed out of

channels made of wood that are

attached to the side rails and corner

posts. The lattice strips are inserted

into the channels.

Step 7: Paint The Arbor

Painting is optional. If you choose not to paint, leave the arbor

natural or stain it. If you choose to paint, you will need to prepare

the surface. Sand the arbor, and remove all dust. Paint the arbor

with a good primer. This not only prepares the wood for proper

paint adhesion, but it also helps cover knots in the posts and

prevent sap from bleeding through. A minimum of one coat of

primer plus two additional coats of a premium exterior paint is

recommended.

Step 8: Install The Arbor

Calculate where the post holes go, and dig them as deep as the

legs are long. If you are using the arbor in front of a door like

these homeowners did, be sure to center the arbor in front of the

of crushed gravel. Gently rock the arbor back and forth, while

occasionally checking with a bubble level to be sure it's level. This

allows some of the gravel to spill under the bottom of each post

and, in effect, self-level the arbor. If the arbor needs to be raised

higher, keep rocking it. More gravel will fall under the posts and

slowly raise the height. After the correct height is reached, check

again for levelness. Once you are satisfied with the height and

levelness, tamp down the gravel using a flat surface. Fill the

remainder of the hole with concrete. Check for levelness one more

time, and make any necessary adjustments. Let dry. Weather,

moisture content of the dirt and humidity will all affect the length

of time it takes the cement to cure, but it's usually no more than

days.

several

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