Chair - Classic Rocker.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - nisaczek

Classic Rocker

A timeless rocking chair that will give you years of pleasure.

Everyone loves a rocker--and it's easy to see why. This is a

chair that's not designed for anything practical, like eating

or working, but simply created for one purpose--relaxation.

Combining a welcome break for tired feet and a gentle,

soothing motion, it's the ideal chair for catching up with the

news after a hard day on the job or just enjoying a fire on

the first cold night of the year.

And, with its strong, simple lines, our Arts & Crafts version

is sure to become a favorite in your house. Its timeless

design matches almost any decorating scheme and the

compact size lets it fit almost anywhere.

Best of all, we've planned our chair so you can put it

together with a relatively modest collection of hand tools.

While a chair can be a tough project to take on, our rocker

falls on the simple end of the difficulty curve and requires

only intermediate skills. We used quartersawn white oak for

this piece--typical of Arts & Crafts furniture. However, any

hardwood will do.

If possible, buy lumber from a dealer who can plane it to

the required thicknesses: 13/16 in. for the rails, 1-5/16 in.

for the legs, 1-1/2 in. for the rockers, 1-3/4 in. for the curved

back rails and 1/2 in. for the slats. If your supplier can't do

this, try a local cabinet shop--most will be glad to help out

for a nominal fee. We chose to have an upholsterer create

e seat for our chair.

Materials List--Rocker

Key No. Size and description (use)

A* 2 1-5/16 x 1-5/16 x 11-3/8" oak (front

leg)

B* 2 1-5/16 x 3 x 40-7/8" oak (rear leg)

C 2 1-1/2 x 5-1/2 x 35-1/2" oak (rocker)

D1 2 13/16 x 2 x 16-1/2" oak (side top

rail)

D2 2 13/16 x 1-3/4 x 16-1/2" oak (side

bottom rail)

E1 1 13/16 x 2 x 16-1/2" oak (front top

rail)

E2 1 13/16 x 1-1/2 x 16-1/2" oak (front

bottom rail)

F1 1 13/16 x 2 x 14-1/2" oak (rear top

rail)

F2 1 13/16 x 1-1/2 x 14-1/2" oak (rear

bottom rail)

G1 1 1-3/4 x 2-1/2 x 14-1/2" oak (back

top rail)

G2 1 1-3/4 x 2 x 14-1/2" oak (back

bottom rail)

H1 14 1/2 x 5/8 x 7-3/4" oak (side slat)

H2 7

1/2 x 5/8 x 20-1/4" oak (back slat)

13/16 x 2 x 4" oak (corner block)

1/2"-dia. x 3"-long dowel (rocker

pin)

16 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

t h

M 4 2-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

Misc. : Sandpaper; glue; Behlen Solar Lux

American Walnut stain (No. 847-536) and

retarder (No. 847-585), available from

Woodworker's Supply, 1108 N. Glenn Rd.,

Casper, WY 82601; 800-645-9292;

www.woodworker.com; Waterlox Original

Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808

Meech Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105).

* Leave leg bottoms several inches longer to be

trimmed when rockers are installed.

Preparing The Pieces

Use a ripping guide and circular saw to bring your

stock down to the required widths (Photo 1). To

make the cuts safely and accurately, clamp the

wide stock to some scrap blocks on your

worktable and use two hands to control the saw.

Rip the slat and rail blanks slightly oversize, and

use a plane and sandpaper to smooth the sawn

surfaces. Then use a speed square as a guide to

crosscut the stock to size (Photo 2). When cutting

the chair legs, leave the blanks several inches

longer than specified. You'll trim the legs to

finished size after assembling the frame.

Use a circular saw and ripping guide to rip

the stock. Clamp the work to your table so

both hands control the saw.

Next, make a template for the rockers from a

piece of 1/4-in.-thick plywood or hardboard. Trace

the outline of the template onto the rocker stock.

By nesting the two rockers on the blank, you'll

minimize waste. Cut the rockers from the blank

with a sabre saw (Photo 3), keeping the blade on

the waste side of the line.

Clamp one of the rockers to the worktable and

use a sharp spokeshave to smooth the inside

curve (Photo 4). Turn the rocker over and use

either a plane or the spokeshave to smooth the

other side.

Clamp a speed square to the chair rail

stock, and use it to guide the saw and

ensure accurate crosscuts.

Make a template for the rear leg, trace the shape

onto the leg blanks and cut out the legs with a

sabre saw. Clamp two legs together, plane away

the saw marks and bring them to final shape. On

the back sides, you'll have to use a spokeshave

and sandpaper in the area where the straight

bottom portion of the leg meets the tapered top

section.

After marking the rocker shapes with a

template, use a sabre saw to cut to the

waste side of the lines.

Use a spokeshave to smooth the inside

surface. A spokeshave or plane will work

n the other side.

Chair Joinery

Mark the locations of rail mortises in the chair

legs, and use a plunge router with a spiral up-

cutting bit and edge guide to cut the mortises

(Photo 5). You could also bore a series of holes

using a doweling jig to guide the drill. In either

case, use a sharp chisel to finish the mortises.

Carefully lay out the tenons on the ends of the

straight chair rails. Note that the side rails have

angled tenons and tenon shoulders. Clamp a rail

against the edge of the worktable with one end

facing up, then use a backsaw to cut the tenon

cheeks (Photo 6). Keep the saw kerf on the waste

side of the layout line.

Use a plunge router and edge guide to cut

the mortises. Clamp a second leg to the

workpiece for extra support.

After making all the cheek cuts, make a guide

from a 2-in.-thick block of wood for cutting the

tenon shoulders. For the side rails, cut the end of

the guide block at the specified angle (Photo 7).

Lay out and cut the shoulders at the top and

bottom edges of each tenon. Finally, use a sharp

chisel to pare the tenon cheeks so the tenons fit

their respective mortises.

Lay out the curved back-rail shape, including the

tenons, on the appropriate blanks, then cut the

tenons using the same technique. Clamp one of

the blanks, inside face up, to the worktable and

make a series of cuts with your circular saw to

define the inside face of the rail (Photo 8).

Clamp a chair rail to the side of your

worktable and use a backsaw to make the

tenon cheek cuts.

Make a guide by cutting the side-rail angle

on 2-in. stock. Clamp it to the rail and hold

the saw against its end.

Use your circular saw to make a series of

cuts that stop about 1/16 in. above the

inside curve of each back rail.

Chair - Classic Rocker.pdf

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