MS2027-Phantom_Instructions-Complete.pdf

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

PHANTOM

NEW YORK PILOT BOAT, 1868

Technical Characteristics

Scale: 1/8” = 1’ 0” (1:96)

Length: 13-1/2”

Height: 13-1/2”

Hull Width: 2-1/2”

Model Shipways Kit No. MS2027

Model Shipways Kit No. 2027

PHANTOM

New York Pilot Boat, 1868

By George F. Campbell, 1960

Updated Instruction Manual By Ben Lankford

Incorporating suggestions by model builder, Arthur Glaser

The Model Shipways plans for Phantom were prepared in 1960 by Mr. George F. Campbell, who passed away

several years ago. Mr. Campbell was a noted British marine artist, author, naval architect, and historian. He was

a member of the Royal Institute of Naval Architects. One of his most noteworthy publications is China Tea

Clippers. He also developed the drawings for the Cutty Sark restoration in England, developed the Model

Shipways kit of Rattlesnake, and authored Model Shipways’ model handbook, Neophyte Shipmodeler's Jackstay.

The Model Shipways plans for Phantom are based on hull lines provided by Howard I. Chapelle, taken from

a builder’s half-model in the Smithsonian Institute. Deck details and rigging are based on photo information

from the Peabody Museum of Salem, Massachusetts.

Sold & distributed by Model Expo, a division of Model Shipways, Inc. • Hollywood, FL 33020

www.modelexpo-online.com

A Brief History

The Phantom and Pet , sister schooners, were built in 1868-69 at the

Lawlor yard in East Boston, Massachusetts for the Boston port pilots.

Dennison J. Lawlor designed them, as is evident from his “trademarks”:

plumb stem, sharp entry, abrupt bilges amidship, very easy run, and drag

of keel. These characteristics persist over his long period of

successful designing.

Phantom was sold to the Sandy Hook (New York) pilots and operated

out of New York for several years. On March 14, 1886, Phantom was the

first to aid the sinking British liner S. S. Oregon off the coast of Long

Island. Her crew oversaw the orderly rescue of 852 people, 400 of whom

were aboard when she returned to port. At the time, she was listed as

New York Pilot Boat No. 11, displaying those numerals on her main sail.

She was lost in the Great Blizzard of March, 1888. The boat keeper,

cook, and four seamen went down with the ship.

CONSTRUCTION STAGES & TABLE OF CONTENTS

Brief History

Pg 2

Introduction/Credits

Pg 2

Before You Begin

Pg 4

How to Work With the Plans & Parts

Pg 4

What You’ll Need to Start Construction

Pg 5

Painting & Staining the Model

Pg 6

Stage A: Shaping the Pre-Carved Hull

Pg 6

1. Hull Templates

Pg 6

2. Carving the Hull

Pg 6

3. Carving the Deck & Bulwarks

Pg 6

Stage B: Completing the Basic Hull Structures

Pg 8

1. Installing the Keel, Stem & Sternpost

Pg 8

2. Installing the Rudder

Pg 8

3. Drilling the Larger Holes in the Hull

Pg 8

4. Holes to Be Drilled as Work Progresses

Pg 8

5. Planking the Deck

Pg 8

6. Installing the Bulwark Stanchions & Cap Rail

Pg 8

7. Coppering the Hull

Pg 8

Stage C: Mounting the Hull

Pg 10

1. Launching Ways

Pg 10

2. Mounting Board with Two Pedestals

Pg 10

Stage D: Adding the Hull Details

Pg 10

1. Wheelbox, Companionways & Skylight

Pg 10

2. Britannia Castings

Pg 10

Stage E: Mast & Spar Construction

Pg 10

1. Shaping the Lower & Top Masts: Fore & Main

Pg 10

2. Assembling the Fore & Main Masts

Pg 10

3. Shaping the Spars

Pg 11

4. Main Boom & Gaff Assemblies

Pg 11

5. Mounting the Mast Assemblies & Bowsprit

Pg 11

Stage F: General Rigging Information

Pg 12

1. Rigging Sail Lines

Pg 12

2. Choosing the Right Size Lines

Pg 12

3. Applying Beeswax to the Lines

Pg 12

4. Seizing the Lines

Pg 12

5. Blocks, Strops & Fittings

Pg 12

Stage G: Standing Rigging

Pg 13

1. Bowsprit Rigging

Pg 13

2. Shrouds

Pg 13

3. Stays

Pg 13

4. Footropes

Pg 13

Stage H: Running Rigging

Pg 13

1. Fore & Mainsail Rigging

Pg 13

2. Jib & Fore Staysail Rigging

Pg 13

3. Main Topmast Staysail & Gaff Topsail Rigging

Pg 13

4. Belaying the Running Rigging

Pg 13

5. Final Touches

Pg 13

Scale Conversion Table

Pg 14

Rigging Line Diameters

Pg 14

Millimeters/Inches Conversion Formulas

Pg 14

Bibliography

Pg 15

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

HOW TO WORK WITH THE PLANS & PARTS

The Phantom is an interesting model for

beginner and expert alike. This kit con-

tains a solid hull which has been

Before starting model construction, exam-

ine the kit and study the plans carefully.

Familiarizing yourself with the kit will

serve two purposes. First, it will let you

determine that all parts have been sup-

plied as listed. And second, you’ll be sur-

prised at just how quickly handling the

parts allows you to better understand the

kit requirements. Try to visualize how

every part will look on the completed

model. Also, determine ahead of time

what must be done first. The instructions

will help you in this regard, but a thor-

ough knowledge of the plans at the outset

is essential.

3. Understanding Hull Lines

Beginners may not be familiar with hull

lines. Buttock lines are vertical longitudi-

nal planes cut through the hull.Water-

lines are horizontal planes, and sections

are transverse vertical planes. All of these

lines define the hull shape and are used

by the draftsman to fair the hull form

(create regular even curves). A complete

set of hull lines is shown on the plans.

machined carved from select, medium-

hard, fine-grained basswood. This style

hull provides a quick and easy lesson in

the basic shapes and proportions of hull

design and helps to develop woodworking

4. Kit Lumber

Your kit may contain European lime-

wood, as a substitute for the basswood

most of us are familiar with. Both woods

are similar in grain and workability. In

fact, limewood has superior bending qual-

ities. This will be helpful, since a few of

Phantom’s rails must be bent to the prop-

er curve. Following are three different

methods of bending and shaping wood.

skills. Although the exterior of the

Phantom hull has been carved close to

the hull lines as shown on the plans, fur-

It is suggested that all small fittings and

hardware be sorted into labeled boxes or

compartments to avoid loss during the

building process.

ther carving and sanding is necessary for

reasons of accuracy. Shaping and finish-

ing the hull to its final shape are dis-

1. The Plans

Three Plan Sheets and a Template Sheet

are provided:

1. Arrangement & Lines - Sheet 1 of 3

2. Rigging Plan - Sheet 2 of 3

3. Suggested Simplification of Rigging

Details - Sheet 3 of 3

4. Hull Templates on heavy paper stock

for hull carving

The Phantom kit is manufactured to a

scale of 1/8” = 1’ 0”. Plan sheets 1 and 2

are drawn to the exact scale that the

model is to be built, except where some

details have been enlarged for clarity.

Most dimensions can be lifted directly off

the plans by using a set of draftsman

dividers or by using a “tick” strip, which

is simply a piece of paper used to “pick

up” the dimensions (a roll of calculator

tape works very well). Lay your paper

strip over the plan and mark the lengths

of items carefully with a sharp pencil.

Then use the strip to transfer the marks to

the wood or item to be made to scale.

cussed in the instructions.

Steam bending - This is done by holding

the wood piece you wish to bend over a

kettle of steaming water and then bending

it. Hold the wood in position until it

cools. It should remain nearly in that posi-

tion, but may spring back slightly.

Constructing the Phantom model also

will provide you with the opportunity to

develop some scratch-building techniques.

During construction, you may want to

substitute some of the kit fittings with

Soaking - Another method is to soak the

piece in warm water for several hours.

Try adding a little household ammonia to

the water. You can also use pure ammo-

nia. This speeds up the soaking process

and makes the wood fibers slippery so the

wood can be easily bent. After soaking the

wood, shape it to the desired

position,using a form. Let it remain there

until it has dried completely.

your own creations. By all means try

them, especially if you think you can

improve the model.

If you are a beginner, take your time.

This model is fairly simple to build but it

still has a fair amount of detail and small

Hot iron - You may also bend wood

quickly over a soldering iron, but don’t let

it get too hot. Large soldering irons with a

tubular end is ideal. The tube near the

handle will not be as hot as the very end.

It is also possible to purchase model

plank-bending irons commercially. They

are designed for controlled heat.

parts. Make sure you complete one stage

before moving to the next. When some-

thing goes awry, consider doing it over.

Completing this model will prepare you

for a more complicated model such as

2. Making Allowances

Along the Way

Try to be exact when following the plans,

but use common sense along the way. You

may need to make adjustments or allow

for small differences in how your model is

shaping up; perhaps your mast has too

much rake (the angle at which it sits).

When lines go to belaying points they

should not drape over parts or conflict

with other lines. If necessary, move a

belaying point or a fairlead. In other

words, put yourself on the ship and use

your judgement.

5. Cast-Metal Fittings

The kit is supplied with Britannia metal

castings. The Britannia metal is a great

improvement over the white metal that

was used in some older kits. Unlike white

metal and pewter, Britannia does not con-

tain lead, so there are no possible corro-

sion problems. Many of these fittings,

however, will require final finishing

before they are suitable for installing on

the model.

the Sultana or Fair American. The

Sultana is another solid hull model, but

has more rigging and deck detail. Fair

American is outfitted with a plank-on-

bulkhead hull that will take you to anoth-

er level of difficulty. In the meantime,

happy modeling!

Before painting the cast-metal fittings,

clean them up by removing all the mold-

joint flash. To do this, use a No. 11 hobby

blade to cut the flash, then file or sand it

WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO START CONSTRUCTION

with fine sandpaper. It is also suggested

that you clean the fittings thoroughly with

warm soapy water before applying primer.

Make sure they are rinsed thoroughly and

allowed to dry before painting.

The following tools and supplies are recommended for the construction process.

Modelers who have built before may have their own favorites.

A. Knives

1. Hobby knife

2. No.11 blades

6. Soldering & Working

with Brass

The Phantom had some iron fittings that

you can make from brass which you sol-

der together. However, you may desire to

use the simplified methods shown on

plan sheet 3 to eliminate much of the sol-

dering. If you do solder, the secret is to

keep the parts to be soldered clean, and

keep the end of your soldering iron clean

and well tinned. File or sand the parts,

then keep your fingers off. Heat the parts

first, then touch the solder. File off any

excess solder.

B. Files

Set of needle files

C. Clamps

1. A few small C-clamps

2. Wooden clothespins

3. Rubber bands, #16 and #33

D. Tool Set (A small carving tool set or individual gouges and chisels

for shaping the hull.

E. Sharpening Stone (Necessary to keep tools razor sharp)

F. Boring Tools

1. Set of miniature drills: #60 to #80

2. 1/16”, 3/32” and 1/8” drills

3. Pin vise

G. Miscellaneous

1. Tack hammer

2. Tweezers (a few)

3. Small fine pointed scissors

4. Miniature pliers

a. small round

b. flat nose

5. Bench vise (small)

6. Soldering iron or torch

a. solder

b. flux

7. Sewing thread (for seizing; other rigging in kit)

a. black

b. tan

8. Beeswax block (for treating rigging lines)

9. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape

10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and strip metal)

H. Sandpaper - Fine & medium grit garnet or aluminum oxide (#100 to #220)

I. Sail Cloth - Light weave cotton or linen cloth if you intend to add sails.

A suitable cotton cloth is available from Model Expo.

J. Finishing

1. Paint Brushes

a. fine point for details

b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull

K. Supplies (will be covered in detail in the Painting & Staining section and

throughout the instructions)

1. Paints

2. Primer

3. Stains and varnish

4. White or Carpenter’s (yellow) wood glue

5. Super glue

6. Five-minute epoxy glue

7. Wood filler

Note about glues: White glue, or Carpenter’s wood glue (yellow in color; also available in

tan color), will suffice for most of the model. Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength

for gluing fittings. Cyanoacrylate glue (super glue), such as Jet, can be used for quick

adhesion and is ideal for adding a touch to a rigging seizing to hold it in place. The best

super glue for most applications is a medium viscosity gap-filling type. The watery-thin

type is recommended to fill a narrow crack by capillary action. Contact cement or model

airplane-type cement is best for gluing the scribed deck sheeting. White glue will warp

the wood sheet.

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