1559-11.pdf

11•1

Chapter 11

Bodywork and fittings

Contents

Body exterior fittings - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25

Body front panel assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11

Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Bonnet lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

Bonnet release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9

Boot lid (Saloon models) - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . .16

Boot lid lock components (Saloon models) - removal and refitting . .17

Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29

Central locking components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12

Door handle and lock components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . .14

Door inner trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

Door window glass and regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . .15

Electric window components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . .21

Exterior mirrors and associated components - removal and refitting . .22

Facia assembly - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30

Front bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1

Interior trim - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Maintenance - bodywork and underframe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

Maintenance - upholstery and carpets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3

Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Rear bumper - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

Seat belt components - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27

Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

Sunroof - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

Tailgate and support struts (Estate models) -

removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

Tailgate lock components (Estate models) - removal and refitting . .19

Windscreen, tailgate and fixed window glass - general information . .23

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with

some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent

DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

experienced DIY

mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY

or professional

affects its value. Maintenance is easy, but

needs to be regular. Neglect, particularly after

minor damage, can lead quickly to further

deterioration and costly repair bills. It is

important also to keep watch on those parts

of the vehicle not immediately visible, for

instance the underside, inside all the wheel

arches, and the lower part of the engine

compartment.

The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot of

water, from a hose. This will remove all the

loose solids which may have stuck to the

vehicle. It is important to flush these off in

such a way as to prevent grit from scratching

the finish. The wheel arches and underframe

need washing in the same way, to remove any

accumulated mud which will retain moisture

and tend to encourage rust. Strangely

enough, the best time to clean the underframe

and wheel arches is in wet weather, when the

mud is thoroughly wet and soft. In very wet

weather, the underframe is usually cleaned of

large accumulations automatically, and this is

a good time for inspection.

Periodically, except on vehicles with a wax-

based underbody protective coating, it is a

good idea to have the whole of the

underframe of the vehicle steam-cleaned,

engine compartment included, so that a

thorough inspection can be carried out to see

what minor repairs and renovations are

necessary. Steam-cleaning is available at

many garages, and is necessary for the

removal of the accumulation of oily grime,

which sometimes is allowed to become thick

in certain areas. If steam-cleaning facilities are

not available, there are one or two excellent

grease solvents available, which can be

brush-applied; the dirt can then be simply

hosed off. Note that these methods should

not be used on vehicles with wax-based

underbody protective coating, or the coating

will be removed. Such vehicles should be

inspected annually, preferably just prior to

Winter, when the underbody should be

washed down, and any damage to the wax

coating repaired. Ideally, a completely fresh

coat should be applied. It would also be worth

considering the use of such wax-based

protection for injection into door panels, sills,

box sections, etc, as an additional safeguard

against rust damage, where such protection is

not provided by the vehicle manufacturer.

After washing paintwork, wipe off with a

chamois leather to give an unspotted clear

finish. A coat of clear protective wax polish

will give added protection against chemical

pollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheen

has dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polisher

combination to restore the brilliance of the

shine. This requires a little effort, but such

dulling is usually caused because regular

washing has been neglected. Care needs to

be taken with metallic paintwork, as special

non-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required to

General information

The bodyshell is made of pressed steel

sections, and is available in 4-door Saloon

and 5-door Estate configuration. Most

components are welded together, but some

use is made of structural adhesives. The front

wings are bolted on.

The bonnet, doors and some other

vulnerable panels are made of zinc-coated

metal, and are further protected by being

coated with an anti-chip primer prior to being

sprayed.

Extensive use is made of plastic materials,

mainly in the interior, but also in exterior

components. The front and rear bumpers and

the front grille are injection-moulded from a

synthetic material which is very strong, and

yet light. Plastic components such as wheel

arch liners are fitted to the underside of the

vehicle, to improve the body’s resistance to

corrosion.

Maintenance -

bodywork and underframe

The general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantly

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

Repairs of rust holes

or gashes in bodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area,

and from an inch or so of the surrounding

“sound” bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a

wire brush on a power drill. If these are not

available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will

do the job most effectively. With the paint

removed, you will be able to judge the severity

of the corrosion, and therefore decide

whether to renew the whole panel (if this is

possible) or to repair the affected area. New

body panels are not as expensive as most

people think, and it is often quicker and more

satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt

to repair large areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected area,

except those which will act as a guide to the

original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg

headlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips or

a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and

any other metal badly affected by corrosion.

Hammer the edges of the hole inwards, in

order to create a slight depression for the filler

paste.

Wire-brush the affected area to remove the

powdery rust from the surface of the

remaining metal. Paint the affected area with

rust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted

area is accessible, treat this also.

Before filling can take place, it will be

necessary to block the hole in some way. This

can be achieved by the use of aluminium or

plastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre

matting is probably the best material to use

for a large hole. Cut a piece to the

approximate size and shape of the hole to be

filled, then position it in the hole so that its

edges are below the level of the surrounding

bodywork. It can be retained in position by

several blobs of filler paste around its

periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small or

very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim

it to the approximate size and shape required,

then pull off the backing paper (if used) and

stick the tape over the hole; it can be

overlapped if the thickness of one piece is

insufficient. Burnish down the edges of the

tape with the handle of a screwdriver or

similar, to ensure that the tape is securely

attached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs -

filling and respraying

Before using this Section, see the Sections

on dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gash

repairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, but

generally speaking, those proprietary kits

which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of

resin hardener are best for this type of repair.

A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will

be found invaluable for imparting a smooth

and well-contoured finish to the surface of the

filler.

avoid damage to the finish. Always check that

the door and ventilator opening drain holes

and pipes are completely clear, so that water

can be drained out. Brightwork should be

treated in the same way as paintwork.

Windscreens and windows can be kept clear

of the smeary film which often appears, by the

use of proprietary glass cleaner. Never use

any form of wax or other body or chromium

polish on glass.

is required. Remove any loose rust from the

bottom of the scratch with a penknife, then

apply rust-inhibiting paint, to prevent the

formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber

or nylon applicator, fill the scratch with

bodystopper paste. If required, this paste can

be mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide a

very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow

scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the

scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth

cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the

finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep

it across the surface of the stopper-paste in

the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of

the stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. The

scratch can now be painted over as described

earlier in this Section.

Repairs of dents in bodywork

When deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is to

pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork

almost attains its original shape. There is little

point in trying to restore the original shape

completely, as the metal in the damaged area

will have stretched on impact, and cannot be

reshaped fully to its original contour. It is

better to bring the level of the dent up to a

point which is about 3 mm below the level of

the surrounding bodywork. In cases where the

dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth

trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the

dent is accessible, it can be hammered out

gently from behind, using a mallet with a

wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,

hold a suitable block of wood firmly against

the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact

from the hammer blows and thus prevent a

large area of the bodywork from being

“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of the

bodywork which has a double skin, or some

other factor making it inaccessible from

behind, a different technique is called for. Drill

several small holes through the metal inside

the area - particularly in the deeper section.

Then screw long self-tapping screws into the

holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good

purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be

pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads

of the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removal

of the paint from the damaged area, and from

an inch or so of the surrounding “sound”

bodywork. This is accomplished most easily

by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a

power drill, although it can be done just as

effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive

paper. To complete the preparation for filling,

score the surface of the bare metal with a

screwdriver or the tang of a file, or

alternatively, drill small holes in the affected

area. This will provide a really good “key” for

the filler paste.

To complete the repair, see the Section on

filling and respraying.

Maintenance -

upholstery and carpets

Mats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free

of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them

from the vehicle for scrubbing or sponging,

and make quite sure they are dry before

refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be

kept clean by wiping with a damp cloth. If they

do become stained (which can be more

apparent on light-coloured upholstery), use a

little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to

scour the grime out of the grain of the

material. Do not forget to keep the headlining

clean in the same way as the upholstery.

When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle,

do not over-wet the surfaces being cleaned.

Excessive damp could get into the seams and

padded interior, causing stains, offensive

odours or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle

gets wet accidentally, it is worthwhile taking

some trouble to dry it out properly, particularly

where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or

electric heaters inside the vehicle for this

purpose.

Minor body damage - repair

Repairs of

minor scratches in bodywork

If the scratch is very superficial, and does

not penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,

repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of

the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a

very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint

from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding

bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with

clean water.

Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a

fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers

of paint until the surface of the paint in the

scratch is level with the surrounding

paintwork. Allow the new paint at least two

weeks to harden, then blend it into the

surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch

area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine

cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish.

Where the scratch has penetrated right

through to the metal of the bodywork, causing

the metal to rust, a different repair technique

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card

or board - measure the hardener carefully

(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack),

otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or too

slowly. Using the applicator, apply the filler

paste to the prepared area; draw the

applicator across the surface of the filler to

achieve the correct contour and to level the

surface. As soon as a contour that

approximates to the correct one is achieved,

stop working the paste - if you carry on too

long, the paste will become sticky and begin

to “pick-up” on the applicator. Continue to

add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute

intervals, until the level of the filler is just

proud of the surrounding bodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed using a metal plane or file.

From then on, progressively-finer grades of

abrasive paper should be used, starting with a

40-grade production paper, and finishing with

a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap

the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,

or wooden block - otherwise the surface of

the filler will not be completely flat. During the

smoothing of the filler surface, the wet-and-

dry paper should be periodically rinsed in

water. This will ensure that a very smooth

finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the “dent” should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in

turn should be encircled by the finely

“feathered” edge of the good paintwork.

Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all

of the dust produced by the rubbing-down

operation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat of

primer - this will show up any imperfections in

the surface of the filler. Repair these

imperfections with fresh filler paste or

bodystopper, and once more smooth the

surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is

used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners,

to form a really thin paste which is ideal for

filling small holes. Repeat this spray-and-

repair procedure until you are satisfied that

the surface of the filler, and the feathered

edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean the

repair area with clean water, and allow to dry

fully.

The repair area is now ready for final

spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out

in a warm, dry, windless and dust-free

atmosphere. This condition can be created

artificially if you have access to a large indoor

working area, but if you are forced to work in

the open, you will have to pick your day very

carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing

the floor in the work area with water will help

to settle the dust which would otherwise be in

the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined

to one body panel, mask off the surrounding

panels; this will help to minimise the effects of

a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork

fittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)

will also need to be masked off. Use genuine

masking tape, and several thicknesses of

newspaper, for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate the

aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area

(an old tin, or similar) until the technique is

mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick

coat of primer; the thickness should be built

up using several thin layers of paint, rather

than one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-

dry paper, rub down the surface of the primer

until it is really smooth. While doing this, the

work area should be thoroughly doused with

water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically

rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying

on more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up the

thickness by using several thin layers of paint.

Start spraying in the centre of the repair area,

and then, using a circular motion, work

outwards until the whole repair area and

about 2 inches of the surrounding original

paintwork is covered. Remove all masking

material 10 to 15 minutes after spraying on

the final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a

very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the

paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply

wax polish.

Plastic components

With the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg

bumpers. spoilers, and in some cases major

body panels), rectification of more serious

damage to such items has become a matter

of either entrusting repair work to a specialist

in this field, or renewing complete

components. Repair of such damage by the

DIY owner is not really feasible, owing to the

cost of the equipment and materials required

for effecting such repairs. The basic technique

involves making a groove along the line of the

crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a

power drill. The damaged part is then welded

back together, using a hot air gun to heat up

and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.

Any excess plastic is then removed, and the

area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is

important that a filler rod of the correct plastic

is used, as body components can be made of

a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,

ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,

minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY

owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair.

Once mixed in equal parts, this is used in

similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on

metal panels. The filler is usually cured in

twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding

and painting.

If the owner is renewing a complete

component himself, or if he has repaired it

with epoxy filler, he will be left with the

problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing

which is compatible with the type of plastic

used. At one time, the use of a universal paint

was not possible, owing to the complex range

of plastics encountered in body component

applications. Standard paints, generally

speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber

satisfactorily, but suitable paints to match any

plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from

dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain

a plastic body parts finishing kit which

consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer

and coloured top coat. Full instructions are

normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the

method of use is to first apply the pre-primer

to the component concerned, and allow it to

dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is

applied, and left to dry for about an hour

before finally applying the special-coloured

top coat. The result is a correctly-coloured

component, where the paint will flex with the

plastic or rubber, a property that standard

paint does not normally posses.

Major body damage - repair

Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, it

means that complete new panels will need

welding-in, and this is best left to

professionals. If the damage is due to impact,

it will also be necessary to check completely

the alignment of the bodyshell, and this can

only be carried out accurately by a Peugeot

dealer using special jigs. If the body is left

misaligned, it is primarily dangerous, as the

car will not handle properly, and secondly,

uneven stresses will be imposed on the

steering, suspension and possibly

transmission, causing abnormal wear, or

complete failure, particularly to such items as

the tyres.

Front bumper -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Working at the bottom of the bumper,

remove the three lower bumper securing

screws (see illustration) .

2 Working on one side of the vehicle, remove

the three screws securing the outer edge of

the wheel arch liner, then pull the liner back

from the bumper.

6.1 Front bumper lower securing screw

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

10 On models with rear underbody shields

fitted under the sides of the bumper, release

the exhaust system from its rear mounting

(loosen the clamp if necessary), then lower the

rear of the system for access to the left-hand

rear underbody shield.

11 Where applicable, remove the rear

underbody shield(s) to expose the bumper

side fixing bolts (see illustration) .

12 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts

(one bolt on each side) (see illustration) .

13 Unscrew the two bolts on each side,

securing the bumper to the underbody

brackets, then pull the bumper rearwards

from the vehicle (see illustration) .

Refitting

14 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

6.3 Front bumper front securing nuts

(arrowed)

6.4 Front bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed)

3 Unscrew the two bumper front securing

nuts (see illustration) .

4 Unscrew the bolt securing the side of the

bumper to the wing panel (see illustration) .

5 Repeat the procedure in paragraphs 2 to 4

on the remaining side of the vehicle.

6 Pull the bumper forwards and, where

applicable, disconnect the front foglight wiring

harness and/or the headlight washer fluid

hose. Note the routing of the wiring and/or

hose.

7 Remove the bumper.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal but, where

applicable, ensure that the foglight wiring

and/or washer fluid hose are correctly routed.

4 Working under the bottom of the bumper,

unscrew the two lower securing bolts.

5 Working in the luggage compartment,

locate the number plate light wiring

connector, next to the left-hand rear light

assembly, and separate the two halves of the

connector.

6 Pull the carpet trim panel away from the

rear edge of the luggage compartment to

expose the two remaining bumper securing

bolts.

7 Pull the bumper rearwards, and feed the

number plate light wiring harness through the

grommet in the rear body panel.

Refitting

8 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Estate models

Removal

9 Proceed as described in paragraphs 1 and 2.

Bonnet - removal, refitting and

adjustment

Removal

1 Open the bonnet and have an assistant

support it, then, using a pencil or felt tip pen,

mark the outline position of each bonnet hinge

relative to the bonnet, to use as a guide on

refitting.

2 Where applicable, unbolt the earth strap

from the bonnet.

3 Unscrew the bonnet bolts and, with the

help of the assistant, carefully lift the bonnet

from the vehicle (see illustration) . Store the

bonnet out of the way in a safe place.

Rear bumper -

removal and refitting

Saloon models

Removal

1 To improve access, chock the front wheels,

then jack up the rear of the vehicle and

support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking

and Vehicle Support” ).

2 Remove the fixings, and withdraw the rear

wheel arch liners (access to the fixings can be

improved by removing the rear roadwheels)

(see illustration) .

3 Unscrew the bumper side securing bolts

(one bolt on each side).

7.2 Removing a

rear wheel arch liner

7.11 Rear underbody shield securing clip

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.12 Rear bumper side securing bolt

(arrowed) - Estate model

7.13 Rear bumper side securing bolts

(arrowed) - Estate model

8.3 Hinge-to-bonnet bolts (A)

and hinge-to-body bolts (B)

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

the lock can be improved by removing the

front grille panel (see Section 25).

Refitting

19 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

10 Bonnet lock -

removal and refitting

Removal

1 Open the bonnet.

2 Unscrew the two securing bolts, then

withdraw the lock and disconnect the end of

the release cable from the lock lever (see

illustration) .

Refitting

3 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but on

completion, the operation of the lock.

4 If necessary, adjust the position of the lock

striker on the bonnet (loosen the locknut to

enable the striker to be moved), until the lock

operation is satisfactory.

9.3 Bonnet release lever

securing bolts (arrowed) -

lever mounted on right-hand side

9.5 Disconnecting the bonnet release

cable from the connector behind

the front body panel

4 Inspect the bonnet hinges for signs of wear

and free play at the pivots, and if necessary

renew. Each hinge is secured to the body by

two bolts. On refitting, apply a smear of multi-

purpose grease to the hinges.

Refitting and adjustment

5 With the aid of an assistant, offer up the

bonnet and loosely fit the retaining bolts. Align

the hinges with the marks made on removal,

then tighten the retaining bolts securely.

6 Close the bonnet, and check for alignment

with the adjacent panels. If necessary,

slacken the hinge bolts and re-align the

bonnet to suit. Once the bonnet is correctly

aligned, tighten the hinge bolts. Note that the

alignment of the bonnet can also be adjusted

using the rubber bump stops fitted to the

body front panel. To adjust a bump stop,

loosen the locknut, then turn the buffer as

required, and tighten the locknut.

7 Once the bonnet is correctly aligned, check

that the bonnet fastens and releases in a

satisfactory manner. If adjustment is

necessary, slacken the bonnet striker lock nut

and adjust the position of the striker to suit.

Once the lock is operating correctly, securely

tighten the striker lock nut.

4 Working in the engine compartment, locate

the cable connecting plate, positioned behind

the body front panel, above the radiator.

5 Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal

foam from the cable connector, then disconnect

the cable from the connector (see illustration) .

6 Work around the engine compartment, and

release the cable from any clips and brackets.

7 Tie a length of string to the end of the cable

in the engine compartment, then pull the

cable through into the vehicle interior, noting

its routing.

8 Untie the string from the end of the cable,

and leave it in position to aid refitting.

Refitting

9 Commence refitting by tying the end of the

new cable to the string in the vehicle interior.

10 Use the string to pull the cable through

into the engine compartment, routing it as

noted before removal.

11 Make sure that the bulkhead grommet is

securely seated in the bulkhead aperture.

12 Further refitting is a reversal of removal.

Release lever-to-connecting plate

cable - models with release lever on

left-hand side of facia

Removal

13 Working under the facia, remove the

release lever securing bolt, and withdraw the

lever from the side of the footwell.

14 Proceed as described previously in

paragraphs 4 to 8.

Refitting

15 Proceed as described previously in

paragraphs 9 to 12.

Connecting plate-to-lock cable

Removal

16 Working in the engine compartment,

locate the cable connecting plate, which is

positioned at the front of the engine

compartment.

17 Where applicable, remove the anti-squeal

foam from the cable connector, then

disconnect the release lever cable from the

connector.

18 Disconnect the end of the cable from the

lock, then unclip the cable outer from the

bracket on the lock, release the cable from

any clips on the body, and withdraw the

cable, noting its routing. If desired, access to

11 Body front panel assembly -

removal and refitting

Warning: On models equipped

with air conditioning, the bolts

securing the condenser and the

reservoir to the front panel must

be removed. Where the front panel is

being removed to enable engine removal,

the compressor must also be unbolted

from the engine, which will then allow the

complete assembly to be moved clear for

engine removal. Do not disconnect any

refrigerant pipelines unless the system

has been recharged - refer to the

precautions given in Chapter 3.

Removal

1 Open the bonnet.

2 Disconnect the battery negative lead.

3 To improve access, apply the handbrake,

then jack up the front of the vehicle an

support securely on axle stands (see “Jacking

and Vehicle Support” ).

4 Remove the front wheel arch liners, with

reference to Section 25.

Bonnet release cable -

removal and refitting

General

1 The cable consists of two parts, joined at a

connecting plate in the engine compartment.

The release lever may be mounted on the left-

or right-hand side of the facia, depending on

model.

Release lever-to-connecting plate

cable - models with release lever on

right-hand side of facia

Removal

2 Working inside the vehicle, release the

securing clips and drop the fusebox panel

down from the facia.

3 Remove the two bolts securing the bonnet

release lever to the bracket under the facia

(see illustration) .

10.2 Bonnet lock securing bolts (arrowed)

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