instructions_philharmonic.pdf

ADAMS PHILHARMONIC TIMPANI

BERLIN PEDAL AND CLOYD DUFF MODELS

USER INSTRUCTIONS AND FEATURES

Thank you for purchasing Adams Philharmonic timpani. These state of the art instruments

feature some of the best advancements in timpani design and sound in the world today. Please

take a moment to familiarize yourself with their unique features in order to fully understand the

proper way to make adjustments, transport the drums, and make full use of their technical and

musical capabilities.

FEATURES

A. FLOATING STAR OR SPIDER

The star or ìspiderî of an Adams Philharmonic has a round nut securing it to the center piston

as well as an oversized center hole. This enables the star to move more freely on an

unrestricted horizontal plane. Although this movement is very slight, it is just enough to

ensure that your timpani heads will pull down straight and not to any one side.

B. SPLIT ROCKER ARM

The split rocker arm essentially serves three important functions. First, it contributes to the

smoothness and lightness of the pedal feel. Second, it contributes to the smoothness and

ease of turning the fine tuner, and third, it re-distributes the system of leverage employed to

the center piston, thereby relieving some of the stress to the frame. An added extra to the

rocker arm system is the use of the spring under the star. This makes changing your timpani

heads as easy as changing a tom-tom head because the rocker arm is suspended in place,

never falling to the floor and requiring a block or jack to raise it up.

C. FINE TUNER

The fine tuner utilizes a universal joint near its base. This is to ensure smoothness in turning,

even in the very high registers of the drums, as all struts must bend a few millimeters in

extreme high ranges. This again compensates for any angle changes and re-distributes

stress forces instead of fighting them.

D. TILTING DEVICE AND STABILIZING DEVICE

These two devices operate in essentially the same manner. The piston on the front of the

drum can act as a tilter for the drum or as a stabilizer for the drum if you play with the drums

level or ìflat.î The pi ston in the back nearest the pedal only acts as a stabilizer for added

solidity to the feel of the drum on the floor. With both pistons in the ìUPî posi tion, the drum is

conveniently lowered to the level of its casters for easy maneuverability.

E. SPRING TENSION MECHANISM

This device assists greatly in the evenness of pedal feel and resistance throughout the entire

pedal range. You will find this particularly useful when switching from calf to plastic heads.

The player can select the desired amount of pedal resistance from very light and even, to

near natural head resistance with pedal resistance increasing as you move it into higher pitch

ranges.

F. FULLY ADJUSTABLE TUNING GUAGE

The Adams tuning gauge system offers the player a wide range of choices in viewing angle

without ever binding or making contact with other frame parts.

G. HEAD CENTERING DEVICES

These are positioned at four places on each drum, and prevent the head from being pulled off

center during transport or when being moved improperly via the counter hoop. they are also

fully adjustable and provide great protection while again offering the unrestricted movement

of the tension rods.

H. UNI-LOCKING CASTERS

The caster system locks positively in two directions at once ensuring that the wheel will not

turn AND the entire caster cannot move in any direction so as not to rattle or generate any

noise while playing. They are easily accessed and easy to lock and release.

I. ADJUSTABLE TRANSFER BAR

There are three different positions that the transfer bar can be placed in. These adjustments

are to facilitate the transition from calf to plastic heads, so that the pedal feel can be

maintained and the proper range of the instruments can be achieved without damaging

plastic heads.

PHILHARMONIC TIMPANI ADJUSTMENT INSTRUCTIONS

A. MOVING THE DRUMS AND ADJUSTING THE CASTERS

WARNING! Always be sure that both the stabilizer piston and the tilting devices are in their

“UP” positions, and of course that your casters are unlocked before moving the timpani.

When rolling the timpani, be sure to “drive” the drums from the players side because of the

third wheel which is built into the leg of the frame base and acts as a “rudder” to help steer

and guide the drum. When you are in position and ready to play, point your casters toward

you for easy access of the break release. (see diagram A number 1 and 2)

B. USING THE TILTING DEVICE AND STABILIZER PISTON

If you wish to tilt the timpani, simply lift the drum from the front by grasping the suspension

ring (never the counter hoop!) and raise to the desired height while depressing the tilting

piston from the top with your foot. This will lock in place automatically. Note, when lowering

the timpani from a tilted position, repeat this process in reverse order to drop the drum back

down to caster level gently! To engage the stabilizing piston next to the pedal, simply

depress from the top with your foot in exactly the same manner as above. To disengage

either of these devices, simply flip the round black toe release lever on the side of either

piston downward with your toe. (see diagram B)

C. ADJUSTING THE SPRING TENSION MECHANISM

You may adjust the amount of pedal resistance to your desired taste. As they come from the

factory, the pedal “feel” should be very even throughout the entire range, that is, almost no

increased resistance as you move to higher registers. To change the feel, simply turn the

hand knob on the spring tension mechanism clockwise for INCREASED TENSION or

counterclockwise for DECREASED TENSION until you achieve the pedal feel you desire.

We suggest turning in increments of four full turns at a time, and then testing the feel of the

pedal before going too far in either direction. (see diagram C number 1)

D. ADJUSTING THE TUNING GUAGE

The tuning gauge can be adjusted to your preference of viewing angle. Simply loosen the

two large socket head screws on each side of the gauge to position the gauge where you

like, then adjust the position of the indicator rod receiver near the base of the drum until you

achieve a full range out of your pointer from top to bottom without making metal contact at

either end. (see diagram D number 1 and 2)

E. ADJUSTING TRANSFER BAR POSITION

The position of the transfer bar can be manipulated if necessary when switching from calf to

plastic heads. Without this feature, you would experience too minimal a pitch range when

using calf heads, and too wide a range when using plastic, possibly damaging the heads. If

your drums were purchased with calf heads you need not adjust anything until you switch to

plastic. Likewise, if you purchased your drums with plastic, you need not adjust anything until

you switch to calf. When making a switch to one or the other, be sure to move the transfer

bar to the hole closest to the audience or “front” of the drum for calf skin heads, and closest

to the player or the “back” of the drum for plastic heads. You will need only an adjustable

wrench and an allen wrench to do this procedure. It is easiest when elevating the drum on

some chairs or a work table and make sure the pedal is on the lowest note possible. note:

no diagram available

F. ADJUSTING THE HEAD CENTERING DEVICES

Make sure your heads are centered over the bowl and that your tension rods are equidistant

from each strut. Make sure the star is also equidistant from each strut as well. Loosen the

socket head screw which secures the centering device to the suspension ring and position it

so that the tension rod does not touch on either side.

G. CHANGING HEADS (removal and replacement)

Place the pedal in the lowest register or “all the way back” and turn the fine tuner counter

clockwise until it stops. Unscrew each tension rod completely and remove. Remove the

counter hoop and head. Before placing the new head on the bowl, check the cleanliness of

the lip and clean and re-lubricate if necessary. We recommend using simple “naptha” based

solvents to clean, and a dry Teflon spray as a superior lubricant. Mount the new head, place

counter hoop on top and re-insert tension rods. Before screwing in the tension rods make

sure that the star is relatively LEVEL, and that its points are equidistant from each strut.

Next, begin to screw in the tension rods and bring them down about one inch above their

respective eye hole. DO NOT BRING RODS TOO FAR DOWN, BE PATIENT! Once all rods

are equally about one inch from each hole, place a small lightweight level (or commercially

available timpani measuring device) near the lip of the bowl facing in toward the center of the

head and pointing at your first tension rod. Begin screwing down each rod SLOWLY until it is

just seated in the hole without causing ANY head tension whatsoever. Repeat this on each

rod moving to the opposite rod across the drum in that order. Next, make sure the head is

perfectly centered and turn the fine tuner clockwise until the head reaches a recognizable

pitch (for example on a 26” drum the note C) and listen to the head. If the tone is good and

the pitch is relatively clear, unscrew the fine tuner again and tighten the tension rods until

reaching the bottom range of the drum, again do this in opposites always turning in complete

and even HALF TURNS and moving across the drum. The optimum range should be

obtained by a combination of tightening the tension rods AND tightening the fine tuner until it

is approximately one third of the way down. It is this relationship of tension rod tension and

fine tuner tension that will determine the drums correct range and pedal feel. It is always

recommended to SLOWLY bring the rods and fine tuner up to range rather than over

shooting.

SUGGESTED SCALE RANGES, FROM LOWEST NOTE TO HIGHEST NOTE:

20” from E up to B

23” from D up to A

26” from Bb up to F#

29” from E up to D

32” from C up to B

These ranges are relative and are subject to the age and condition of the head used, particularly

calf. Adams timpani can frequently achieve a full octave range on each drum, however it is not

suggested that you adjust your drums in this manner as it may damage your plastic heads. It is

however very common to achieve a SLIGHTLY wider range than the suggested scale range. A

NOTE ABOUT HEADS:

Timpani heads, both plastic and calf, are very sensitive and never perfect. You should always

use the best calf available, and plastic heads that are perfectly flat, round, and devoid of wrinkles

or any defects. BEFORE you blame the drum, we suggest you try another head. Often, one

must try two, or even three heads before finding one that sounds beautiful right away. With very

high quality calf, this is much less frequent. On occasion, you may have a perfect “looking”

plastic head without wrinkles, which is flat, and devoid of any visible defects that simply do not

sing.

For a more in depth approach to “clearing” the heads, or “fine tuning” , please refer to Pearl’s

head clearing literature.

TROUBLESHOOTING

A. PEDAL FEELS TOO TIGHT/TOO LOOSE

Read above instructions regarding SPRING TENSION MECHANISM. Turn counterclockwise

for less pedal resistance, and clockwise for increased pedal resistance.

B. PEDAL FALLS FORWARD

Check position of transfer bar relative to type of head. Check relationship of tension rods to

fine tuner distance. Make sure drum is tuned to its proper range.

C. CANNOT ACHIEVE THE RANGE I NEED

Check position of transfer bar relative to type of head. Check relationship of tension rods to

fine tuner distance. Make sure drum is tuned to its proper range. Try another head.

D. STAR IS NOT LEVEL

Head is tuned improperly. Follow instructions for mounting a head and check to see star is

level before screwing in tension rods. Do not over tighten tension rods on one side of the

drum, follow the above instructions.

E. HEAD IS NOT PULLING ON CENTER

Star is not level due to extremely uneven head tensioning. Start over, following above

instructions on mounting a head. Check to make sure tension rods are pulled down perfectly

even.

F. DRUM SOUNDS DULL AND NOT A CLEAR PITCH

Try another head.

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