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Notebook 6
Know your metals
Even those who know their beads, gemstones, and crystals backward and forward may have
some questions about the chains and indings they use to inish their pieces. Here are the
basics.
Precious metals
Precious metals, in addition to gold and
silver, include platinum and rhodium. They
are relatively rare and therefore more
valuable and highly desired.
Gold content
24kt 100% pure gold
14 karat gold
A karat refers to the amount of actual pure
gold in the gold. 14k indicates 14 parts gold
out of 24. The remaining parts are usually
silver, copper, or another metal. What the
gold is mixed with affects its color – green,
rose, yellow, or white. Most commercial gold
jewelry is 14k–18k.
18kt 75% pure gold
14kt 58% pure gold
10kt 42% pure gold
Gold or silver plate
“Plate” is a very thin layer of gold or silver,
electroplated or electrochemically applied
to another metal. It is about 1/1,000-
1/1,000,000 of an inch thick. Something
called “heavy gold electroplate” would be
about twice that.
Gold or silver illed
“Filled” refers to a layer of gold or silver
applied to a cheaper metal (usually brass)
with heat and pressure. It is 50 to 100,000
times thicker than regular plating.
9kt 37.5% pure gold
Gold or silver inished
Something referred to as gold or silver
inished (or washed, or color) consists of a
base metal that has been electroplated with
a non-standardized thickness of gold or
silver.
Sterling silver
An alloy (mixture) of at least 92.5% silver, and
another metal, usually copper. Sterling silver
will tarnish in time and will have to be
periodically cleaned unless an antique look
is desired.
Vermeil
A sterling silver base heavily electroplated
with 22k yellow gold.
CREATIVE TIP #6
CRYSTALLIZED™ indings are available in brass, gold or silver plated, as well
as Sterling silver. For detailed information on the entire assortment please visit
WWW.CREATE-YOUR-STYLE.COM
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Fine silver
Fine silver is 99.9% silver.
Chain check
Here’s a handy reference to bring to your
bead store when looking for chain.
Platinum
A silvery-white and irm metal that is corrosion-,
wear-, and tarnish-resistant, platinum is rarer,
and therefore more precious, than silver or
gold.
cable chain
Rhodium
Closely related to platinum, but liquid in its raw
state, rhodium can be applied to base or
precious metals to give them a platinum-like
appearance and to resist tarnishing.
curb chain
igaro chain
Base metals
A base metal is any metal that is not a
precious metal. Common examples of base
metals in jewelry include copper, brass, and
nickel.
long-and-short chain
rolo chain
Brass
Brass is an alloy of 70% copper and 30% zinc.
Pewter
Pewter is an alloy of tin and various amounts
of antimony and copper. Genuine pewter
contains lead, but lead-free pewter is
available.
Copper
Copper is a soft metal that alone isn’t very
durable. Many indings are copper-plated
rather than actual copper for strength’s sake.
Gunmetal is dark colored “red” brass that
has an antique look
Stainless Steel
Stainless steel contains more than 10%
chromium and may contain nickel, titanium,
niobium, and other elements. Stainless steel is
hypoallergenic and does not rust.
Nickel Silver
Nickel silver is an alloy of mostly nickel that
resembles sterling silver.
Niobium
Niobium is a hypoallergenic* metal that is
usually anodized into a range of colors. Most
metal-sensitive people can wear niobium.
Titanium
Titanium is a lightweight metal that can be
anodized into a range of colors. Even though
it is not certiied as hypoallergenic*, it can also
be worn by most metal-sensitive people.
*Some good options for those with nickel allergies are niobium, titanium, sterling silver, 14kt gold, or plastic. Items
called nickel free are still allowed to contain a very small amount of nickel. Most of the gold or silver plating used
today is nickel free.
BDS-NB0709
Gunmetal
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