1245-ref.pdf

Tools and Working Facilities

REF•1

Introduction

A selection of good tools is a fundamental

requirement for anyone contemplating the

maintenance and repair of a motor vehicle. For

the owner who does not possess any, their

purchase will prove a considerable expense,

offsetting some of the savings made by doing-

it-yourself. However, provided that the tools

purchased meet the relevant national safety

standards and are of good quality, they will

last for many years and prove an extremely

worthwhile investment.

To help the average owner to decide which

tools are needed to carry out the various tasks

detailed in this manual, we have compiled

three lists of tools under the following

headings: Maintenance and minor repair,

Repair and overhaul , and Special . Newcomers

to practical mechanics should start off with the

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit, and

confine themselves to the simpler jobs around

the vehicle. Then, as confidence and

experience grow, more difficult tasks can be

undertaken, with extra tools being purchased

as, and when, they are needed. In this way, a

Maintenance and minor repair tool kit can be

built up into a Repair and overhaul tool kit over

a considerable period of time, without any

major cash outlays. The experienced do-it-

yourselfer will have a tool kit good enough for

most repair and overhaul procedures, and will

add tools from the Special category when it is

felt that the expense is justified by the amount

of use to which these tools will be put.

Maintenance and minor repair tool

kit

The tools given in this list should be

considered as a minimum requirement if

routine maintenance, servicing and minor

repair operations are to be undertaken. We

recommend the purchase of combination

spanners (ring one end, open-ended the

other); although more expensive than open-

ended ones, they do give the advantages of

both types of spanner.

Adjustable spanner - 35 mm jaw (approx)

M Soft-faced mallet (plastic/aluminium or

rubber)

M Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - long & sturdy, short (chubby),

and narrow (electrician’s) types

Cross blade - Long & sturdy, and short

(chubby) types

M Pliers:

Long-nosed

Side cutters (electrician’s)

Circlip (internal and external)

M Cold chisel - 25 mm

M Scriber

M Scraper

M Centre-punch

M Pin punch

M Hacksaw

M Brake hose clamp

M Brake/clutch bleeding kit

M Selection of twist drills

M Steel rule/straight-edge

M Allen keys (inc. splined/Torx type) (see

illustration)

M Selection of files

M Wire brush

M Axle stands

M Jack (strong trolley or hydraulic type)

M Light with extension lead

* Some Imperial sized nuts and bolts may be

found on air conditioning and automatic

transmission components

Special tools

The tools in this list are those which are not

used regularly, are expensive to buy, or which

need to be used in accordance with their

manufacturer’s instructions. Unless relatively

difficult mechanical jobs are undertaken

frequently, it will not be economic to buy many

of these tools. Where this is the case, you

could consider clubbing together with friends

(or joining a motorists’ club) to make a joint

purchase, or borrowing the tools against a

deposit from a local garage or tool hire

specialist. It is worth noting that many of the

larger DIY superstores now carry a large range

of special tools for hire at modest rates.

Gearbox and final drive filler/level plug keys

Spark plug spanner (with rubber insert)

Spark plug gap adjustment tool

Set of feeler blades

Brake bleed nipple spanner

Screwdrivers:

Flat blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm dia

Cross blade - approx 100 mm long x 6 mm

dia

Combination pliers

Hacksaw (junior)

Tyre pump

Tyre pressure gauge

Oil can

Oil filter removal tool

Fine emery cloth

M Wire brush (small)

M Funnel (medium size)

Repair and overhaul tool kit

These tools are virtually essential for anyone

undertaking any major repairs to a motor

vehicle, and are additional to those given in the

Maintenance and minor repair list. Included in

this list is a comprehensive set of sockets.

Although these are expensive, they will be

found invaluable as they are so versatile -

particularly if various drives are included in the

set. We recommend the half-inch square-drive

type, as this can be used with most proprietary

torque wrenches. If you cannot afford a socket

set, even bought piecemeal, then inexpensive

tubular box spanners are a useful alternative.

The tools in this list will occasionally need to

be supplemented by tools from the Special

list:

Sockets (or box spanners) to cover range in

previous list (including Torx sockets)*

Reversible ratchet drive (for use with

sockets) (see illustration)

Extension piece, 250 mm (for use with

sockets)

Universal joint (for use with sockets)

Torque wrench (for use with sockets)

Combination spanners:

Metric - 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 &

19 mm

Self-locking grips

Ball pein hammer

Sockets and reversible ratchet drive

Spline bit set

Valve spring compressor

Tools and Working Facilities

REF•2

Piston ring compressor

Piston ring removal/installation tool

Cylinder bore hone

Micrometer set

Vernier calipers

Three-legged hub and bearing puller

Dial test indicator and magnetic stand

Stroboscopic timing light

Compression testing gauge

Vacuum pump and gauge

Clutch plate alignment set

Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

Tools and Working Facilities

REF•3

The following list contains only those tools and

instruments freely available to the public, and not

those special tools produced by the vehicle

manufacturer specifically for its dealer network.

You will find occasional references to these

manufacturer’s special tools in the text of this

manual. Generally, an alternative method of doing

the job without the vehicle manufacturer’s special

tool is given. However, sometimes there is no

alternative to using them. Where this is the case

and the relevant tool cannot be bought or

borrowed, you will have to entrust the work to a

franchised garage.

Buying tools

For practically all tools, a tool factor is the

best source, since he will have a very

comprehensive range compared with the

average garage or accessory shop. Having

said that, accessory shops often offer

excellent quality tools at discount prices, so it

pays to shop around.

Remember, you don’t have to buy the most

expensive items on the shelf, but it is always

advisable to steer clear of the very cheap

tools. There are plenty of good tools around at

reasonable prices, but always aim to purchase

items which meet the relevant national safety

standards. If in doubt, ask the proprietor or

manager of the shop for advice before making

a purchase.

Care and maintenance of tools

Having purchased a reasonable tool kit, it is

necessary to keep the tools in a clean and

serviceable condition. After use, always wipe

off any dirt, grease and metal particles using a

clean, dry cloth, before putting the tools away.

Never leave them lying around after they have

been used. A simple tool rack on the garage or

workshop wall, for items such as screwdrivers

and pliers, is a good idea. Store all normal

spanners and sockets in a metal box. Any

measuring instruments, gauges, meters, etc,

must be carefully stored where they cannot be

damaged or become rusty.

Take a little care when tools are used.

Hammer heads inevitably become marked,

and screwdrivers lose the keen edge on their

blades from time to time. A little timely

attention with emery cloth or a file will soon

restore items like this to a good serviceable

finish.

Working facilities

Not to be forgotten when discussing tools is

the workshop itself. If anything more than

routine maintenance is to be carried out, some

form of suitable working area becomes

essential.

It is appreciated that many an owner-

mechanic is forced by circumstances to

remove an engine or similar item without the

benefit of a garage or workshop. Having done

this, any repairs should always be done under

the cover of a roof.

Wherever possible, any dismantling should

be done on a clean, flat workbench or table at

a suitable working height.

Any workbench needs a vice; one with a jaw

opening of 100 mm is suitable for most jobs.

As mentioned previously, some clean dry

storage space is also required for tools, as well

as for any lubricants, cleaning fluids, touch-up

paints and so on, which become necessary.

Another item which may be required, and

which has a much more general usage, is an

electric drill with a chuck capacity of at least 8

mm. This, together with a good range of twist

drills, is virtually essential for fitting

accessories.

Lastly, always keep a supply of old

newspapers and clean, lint-free rags available,

and try to keep any working area as clean as

possible.

Valve spring compressor (see illustration)

Valve grinding tool

Piston ring compressor (see illustration)

Piston ring removal/installation tool (see

illustration)

Cylinder bore hone (see illustration)

Balljoint separator

Coil spring compressors (where applicable)

Two/three-legged hub and bearing puller

(see illustration)

Impact screwdriver

Micrometer and/or vernier calipers (see

illustrations)

Dial gauge (see illustration)

Stroboscopic timing light (see illustration)

Dwell angle meter/tachometer

Universal electrical multi-meter

Cylinder compression gauge (see

illustration)

Hand-operated vacuum pump and gauge

(see illustration)

Clutch plate alignment set (see

illustration)

Brake shoe steady spring cup removal tool

(see illustration)

Bush and bearing removal/installation set

(see illustration)

Stud extractors (see illustration)

Tap and die set (see illustration)

Lifting tackle

Trolley jack

Tap and die set

Bush and bearing removal/installation set

Stud extractor set

General Repair Procedures

REF•4

Whenever servicing, repair or overhaul work

is carried out on the car or its components, it is

necessary to observe the following procedures

and instructions. This will assist in carrying out

the operation efficiently and to a professional

standard of workmanship.

Joint mating faces and gaskets

When separating components at their

mating faces, never insert screwdrivers or

similar implements into the joint between the

faces in order to prise them apart. This can

cause severe damage which results in oil

leaks, coolant leaks, etc upon reassembly.

Separation is usually achieved by tapping

along the joint with a soft-faced hammer in

order to break the seal. However, note that this

method may not be suitable where dowels are

used for component location.

Where a gasket is used between the mating

faces of two components, ensure that it is

renewed on reassembly, and fit it dry unless

otherwise stated in the repair procedure. Make

sure that the mating faces are clean and dry,

with all traces of old gasket removed. When

cleaning a joint face, use a tool which is not

likely to score or damage the face, and remove

any burrs or nicks with an oilstone or fine file.

Make sure that tapped holes are cleaned

with a pipe cleaner, and keep them free of

jointing compound, if this is being used, unless

specifically instructed otherwise.

Ensure that all orifices, channels or pipes

are clear, and blow through them, preferably

using compressed air.

Oil seals

Oil seals can be removed by levering them

out with a wide flat-bladed screwdriver or

similar implement. Alternatively, a number of

self-tapping screws may be screwed into the

seal, and these used as a purchase for pliers

or some similar device in order to pull the seal

free.

Whenever an oil seal is removed from its

working location, either individually or as part

of an assembly, it should be renewed.

The very fine sealing lip of the seal is easily

damaged, and will not seal if the surface it

contacts is not completely clean and free from

scratches, nicks or grooves.

Protect the lips of the seal from any surface

which may damage them in the course of

fitting. Use tape or a conical sleeve where

possible. Lubricate the seal lips with oil before

fitting and, on dual-lipped seals, fill the space

between the lips with grease.

Unless otherwise stated, oil seals must be

fitted with their sealing lips toward the

lubricant to be sealed.

Use a tubular drift or block of wood of the

appropriate size to install the seal and, if the

seal housing is shouldered, drive the seal

down to the shoulder. If the seal housing is

unshouldered, the seal should be fitted with its

face flush with the housing top face (unless

otherwise instructed).

Screw threads and fastenings

Seized nuts, bolts and screws are quite a

common occurrence where corrosion has set

in, and the use of penetrating oil or releasing

fluid will often overcome this problem if the

offending item is soaked for a while before

attempting to release it. The use of an impact

driver may also provide a means of releasing

such stubborn fastening devices, when used

in conjunction with the appropriate

screwdriver bit or socket. If none of these

methods works, it may be necessary to resort

to the careful application of heat, or the use of

a hacksaw or nut splitter device.

Studs are usually removed by locking two

nuts together on the threaded part, and then

using a spanner on the lower nut to unscrew

the stud. Studs or bolts which have broken off

below the surface of the component in which

they are mounted can sometimes be removed

using a proprietary stud extractor. Always

ensure that a blind tapped hole is completely

free from oil, grease, water or other fluid

before installing the bolt or stud. Failure to do

this could cause the housing to crack due to

the hydraulic action of the bolt or stud as it is

screwed in.

When tightening a castellated nut to accept

a split pin, tighten the nut to the specified

torque, where applicable, and then tighten

further to the next split pin hole. Never slacken

the nut to align the split pin hole, unless stated

in the repair procedure.

When checking or retightening a nut or bolt

to a specified torque setting, slacken the nut

or bolt by a quarter of a turn, and then

retighten to the specified setting. However,

this should not be attempted where angular

tightening has been used.

For some screw fastenings, notably cylinder

head bolts or nuts, torque wrench settings are

no longer specified for the latter stages of

tightening, “angle-tightening” being called up

instead. Typically, a fairly low torque wrench

setting will be applied to the bolts/nuts in

the correct sequence, followed by one or

more stages of tightening through specified

angles.

effectiveness after long periods of use, and in

such cases should be renewed as a matter of

course.

Split pins must always be replaced with new

ones of the correct size for the hole.

When thread-locking compound is found on

the threads of a fastener which is to be re-

used, it should be cleaned off with a wire

brush and solvent, and fresh compound

applied on reassembly.

Special tools

Some repair procedures in this manual

entail the use of special tools such as a press,

two or three-legged pullers, spring

compressors, etc. Wherever possible, suitable

readily-available alternatives to the

manufacturer’s special tools are described,

and are shown in use. Unless you are highly-

skilled and have a thorough understanding of

the procedures described, never attempt to

bypass the use of any special tool when the

procedure described specifies its use. Not

only is there a very great risk of personal injury,

but expensive damage could be caused to the

components involved.

Environmental considerations

When disposing of used engine oil, brake

fluid, antifreeze, etc, give due consideration to

any detrimental environmental effects. Do not,

for instance, pour any of the above liquids

down drains into the general sewage system,

or onto the ground to soak away. Many local

council refuse tips provide a facility for waste

oil disposal, as do some garages. If none of

these facilities are available, consult your local

Environmental Health Department for further

advice.

With the universal tightening-up of

legislation regarding the emission of

environmentally-harmful substances from

motor vehicles, most current vehicles have

tamperproof devices fitted to the main

adjustment points of the fuel system. These

devices are primarily designed to prevent

unqualified persons from adjusting the fuel/air

mixture, with the chance of a consequent

increase in toxic emissions. If such devices are

encountered during servicing or overhaul, they

should, wherever possible, be renewed or

refitted in accordance with the vehicle

manufacturer’s requirements or current

legislation.

Locknuts, locktabs and washers

Any fastening which will rotate against a

component or housing in the course of

tightening should always have a washer

between it and the relevant component or

housing.

Spring or split washers should always be

renewed when they are used to lock a critical

component such as a big-end bearing

retaining bolt or nut. Locktabs which are

folded over to retain a nut or bolt should

always be renewed.

Self-locking nuts can be re-used in non-

critical areas, providing resistance can be felt

when the locking portion passes over the bolt

or stud thread. However, it should be noted

that self-locking stiffnuts tend to lose their

Note: It is

antisocial and

illegal to dump

oil down the

drain. To find

the location of

your local oil

recycling

bank, call this

number free.

Fault Finding

REF•5

Engine

General gear selection problems

m Transmission will not downshift (kickdown) with accelerator fully

depressed

m Engine will not start in any gear, or starts in gears other than Park

or Neutral

m Transmission slips, shifts roughly, is noisy, or has no drive in

forward or reverse gears

Propeller shaft

Engine fails to rotate when attempting to start

Starter motor turns engine slowly

Engine rotates, but will not start

Engine difficult to start when cold

Engine difficult to start when hot

Starter motor noisy or excessively-rough in engagement

Engine starts, but stops immediately

Engine idles erratically

Clicking or knocking noise on turns (at slow speed on full-lock)

m Vibration when accelerating or decelerating

Final drive and driveshafts

Engine misfires at idle speed

Engine misfires throughout the driving speed range

Engine hesitates on acceleration

Engine stalls

Excessive final drive noise

Engine lacks power

Oil leakage from final drive

m Grating, knocking or vibration from driveshafts

Braking system

Engine backfires

Oil pressure warning light illuminated with engine running

Engine runs-on after switching off

m Engine noises

Cooling system

Vehicle pulls to one side under braking

Noise (grinding or high-pitched squeal) when brakes applied

Excessive brake pedal travel

Overheating

Brake pedal feels spongy when depressed

Overcooling

Excessive brake pedal effort required to stop vehicle

External coolant leakage

Judder felt through brake pedal or steering wheel when braking

Internal coolant leakage

Pedal pulsates when braking hard

Corrosion

Fuel and exhaust systems

Brakes binding

m Rear wheels locking under normal braking

Suspension and steering systems

Excessive fuel consumption

Vehicle pulls to one side

Fuel leakage and/or fuel odour

m Excessive noise or fumes from exhaust system

Clutch

Wheel wobble and vibration

Excessive pitching and/or rolling around corners, or during braking

Wandering or general instability

Excessively-stiff steering

Pedal travels to floor - no pressure or very little resistance

Excessive play in steering

Clutch fails to disengage (unable to select gears)

Lack of power assistance

Clutch slips (engine speed increases, with no increase in vehicle

speed)

Tyre wear excessive

Electrical system

Judder as clutch is engaged

m Noise when depressing or releasing clutch pedal

Manual gearbox

Lights inoperative

Ignition/no-charge warning light remains illuminated with engine

running

Noisy in neutral with engine running

Ignition/no-charge warning light fails to come on

Noisy in one particular gear

Battery will not hold a charge for more than a few days

Difficulty engaging gears

Instrument readings inaccurate or erratic

Jumps out of gear

Horn inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Vibration

m Lubricant leaks

Automatic transmission

Windscreen/tailgate wipers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operation

Windscreen/tailgate washers inoperative, or unsatisfactory in

operation

Fluid leakage

Electric windows inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Transmission fluid brown, or has burned smell

Central locking system inoperative, or unsatisfactory in operation

Introduction

The vehicle owner who does his or her own maintenance according

to the recommended service schedules should not have to use this

section of the manual very often. Modern component reliability is such

that, provided those items subject to wear or deterioration are

inspected or renewed at the specified intervals, sudden failure is

comparatively rare. Faults do not usually just happen as a result of

sudden failure, but develop over a period of time. Major mechanical

failures in particular are usually preceded by characteristic symptoms

over hundreds or even thousands of miles. Those components which

do occasionally fail without warning are often small and easily carried

in the vehicle.

With any fault-finding, the first step is to decide where to begin

investigations. Sometimes this is obvious, but on other occasions, a

little detective work will be necessary. The owner who makes half a

dozen haphazard adjustments or replacements may be successful in

curing a fault (or its symptoms), but will be none the wiser if the fault

recurs, and ultimately may have spent more time and money than was

necessary. A calm and logical approach will be found to be more

satisfactory in the long run. Always take into account any warning

signs or abnormalities that may have been noticed in the period

preceding the fault - power loss, high or low gauge readings, unusual

smells, etc - and remember that failure of components such as fuses or

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