new-caledonia-far-south_v1_m56577569830503729.pdf

250

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FAR SOUTH •• Mont-Dore 251

Far South

WARNING

Despite its tranquil setting, in the last few

years St Louis, just north of the RP1, has

often been the site of violent incidents.

If you plan to visit, get an update on the

situation.

Information

A small tourist information office ( % 43 33 44;

h 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat & Sun) on the RP1

at Boulari (the Mont-Dore town council

administrative centre) has information on

activities and accommodation in the Far

South. It has several walking-track brochures

including one on the GR1 (see below).

For nature lovers Le Grand Sud, the Far South of Grande Terre, with its red earth, scrub

vegetation, rivers, lakes, plains, hills and bays, is a great place to go exploring. It has ex-

cellent walking and mountain-biking tracks, and is a kayaking, abseiling, boating, quad

biking and 4WD adventure playground. The area can be explored by taking a convenient

circular trip, either clockwise past Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue and on towards Yaté

or anticlockwise past Plum and on towards Port Boisé and Goro.

Environment

The landscapes in the Far South are charac-

terised by hills and plains sparsely covered

in ultramafic scrub, shrubs and hard-leafed

plants that grow on the nutrient-poor later-

itic soil. These fragile species have adapted

to the tough soil conditions over millions

of years. Around 75% of the species are

endemic since nonendemic species find it

hard to adapt.

In the early colonial days the absence of

forestry and mining regulations resulted in

the destruction of large areas of vegetation.

Today the vegetation is endangered most by

fire and mining activities. There are some

areas of dense tropical vegetation on the

east coast of the Far South.

The region has several botanical and

zoological reserves that hikers, picnickers,

and bird and plant enthusiasts will enjoy,

including Parc Provincial de la Rivière

Bleue (p254) and the reserve at Chutes de

la Madeleine (p255), which are good exam-

ples of current conservation efforts.

Fauna in the region includes native and

introduced species of birds, insects and rep-

tiles, as well as wild pigs and deer.

Getting There & Around

It’s worth hiring a car for a couple of

days to explore the wide spaces of the Far

South at your leisure (see p330). Buses to

Yaté (600CFP, two hours) and Touaourou

(700CFP, 2½ hours) leave from Noumea’s

Gare Routière at 11.30am Monday to Sat-

urday. There are also buses to Mont-Dore

and Plum (see p254). Many tour companies

(see p253) operate in the Far South and can

take you to most of the places described in

this chapter.

MONT-DORE

pop 24,195

Mont-Dore is very spread out. The town

centre, where there’s a tourist informa-

tion office, post office, cultural centre and

shops, is at Boulari and neighbouring Rob-

inson. The actual mountain (772m) is sev-

eral kilometres further southeast.

Mont-Dore was originally called Mont

d’Or (Mountain of Gold) when early set-

tlers discovered gold. A brief, unprofitable

period of gold mining followed by coal ex-

traction, as well as bushfires, have left the

mountain covered only in shrub vegetation.

You can take the longer route out of Noumea on the RP1 or the faster VDE (Voie de

Dégagement Est) toll road (100CFP per vehicle). To get on the VDE follow Mont-Dore signs

from the Rivière Salée exit on the Voie Express. The RP1 exit is next on the Voie Express.

Shortly before joining up at Boulari, the VDE and RP1 run parallel on either side of the

Catholic mission at La Conception. The eye-catching domed church topped by the silver

statue of the Virgin Mary, visible from both roads, was built in 1874.

About 3km southeast of Boulari is the Catholic church at St Louis with its red spire and

mountain backdrop. Built in 1859, it’s believed to be the oldest church in New Caledonia.

At the foot of Mont-Dore, the RP2 (route de la Corniche) follows the scenic coast around

its western flank. The RP1 continues to the left and 2km further on forks to the right. Here,

it curves around the eastern flank of Mont-Dore, links up with the RP2, and continues past

Plum towards the remote Martian landscape around Prony and Port Boisé. The left fork

follows the RP3 towards Yaté.

HIGHLIGHTS

Walking the GR1 Walking Track ( opposite )

in a vast solitary landscape

Kayaking by full moon through the

drowned forest of Lac de Yaté in Parc

Provincial de la Rivière Bleue ( p255 )

Discovering the hidden village of Prony

( p257 ) and its ruins

Imagining yourself among dinosaurs in the

miniature Jurassic landscape at Chutes de

la Madeleine ( p255 )

Giving kayaking, quad biking, abseiling and

the Far South’s other great outdoor activi-

ties (p253) a go

Watching whales glide gently through the

waters of baie de Prony ( p253 )

de la Rivière Bleue

GR1 WALKING TRACK

The highly recommended GR1 (Grande Randonnée 1; www.trekking-gr-sud-nc.com) is a two- or three-

day (44.4km) walk between Prony and Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue. It’s an ideal way to

experience the remoteness that is the main attraction of the Far South. The walk begins at the

sea and traverses a diverse landscape of plains, forests, hills and streams. From the hills there

are gorgeous views of the sea sprinkled with islands and headlands. It is the first phase of the

Transprovinciale Sud project, which aims to establish a walking track from the south to the north

of the Southern Province. The GR1 is divided into three legs and has well-indicated directions.

For overnight trips there’s a hut at the Refuge des Néocallitropsis at the end of the first leg

(14km), or a camp site at Site de Netcha, the end of the second (10.8km). Day trippers can do

one or two legs depending on their desired pace of walking. Either way, drop-offs or pick-ups

need to be arranged. The main road is about 3km from the hut along a 4WD track and about

500m from the camp site.

By prior arrangement, the office at Site de Netcha (see p256) can arrange to drop you off at

Prony (5400CFP), the Refuge de Néocallitropsis (2100CFP), or Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue

(5700CFP). Rates are for a maximum of four adults.

GR1 Walking Track

la Madeleine

Outdoor Activities

Prony

Baie de Prony

Parc Provincial

Chutes de

252 FAR SOUTH

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FAR SOUTH •• Mont-Dore 253

TOURS IN THE FAR SOUTH

Below is a list of operators who run activities and tours in the Far South.

Aventure Pulsion ( % 26 27 48; aventure@canl.nc; 4WD adult per day 12,000CFP; kayak or mountain bike per

half-/full day 2500/4500CFP) Specialises in 4WD tours. The price, based on a minimum of two people, includes hotel

pick-up and drop-off, and lunch at Port Boisé. It also hires out kayaks and mountain bikes at Site de Netcha.

Caledonia Tour ( % 25 94 24; caledoniatours@lagoon.nc; adult/child 9500/6000CFP) This company runs minibus

tours of the Far South. It specialises in bird-watching (it’s a good option if you want to see cagous in Parc Provincial

de la Rivière Bleue) and botanic tours. Rates are based on a minimum of two adults.

Pacific Free Ride ( % 79 22 02; www.pfr.nc; canoe half-/full-day 5000/10,000CFP; quad bikes half-/full day

10,000/17,000CFP; abseiling 8000CFP) Offers canoe trips in baie de Prony and abseiling down the Cascade de Wadi-

ana at Goro or the Yaté waterfall. It also runs a fun quad-bike and canoe tour just south of Plum. You ride inland on

quad bikes and return by river.

Terra Incognita ( % 25 39 93, 78 94 46; terincognita@canl.nc; kayaks half-/full day/full moon 3350/5350/

3950CFP; 4WD adult 9880CFP) Hires out kayaks in Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue on the basis of six confirmed

bookings. It organises magical moonlit trips on the lake and Rivière Bleue during the full moon. Its 4WD tour rates

are based on a minimum of three adults.

Koghi Decouverte/Sud Loisir ( % 77 81 43, fax 27 51 52; koghidecouverte@hotmail.com; mountain bikes

full day 1800CFP; mountain bikes & kayaks adult/child full day 5750/4600CFP) Hires out mountain bikes and kayaks

in Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue. It also offers return transfers between Noumea and the park (2500CFP).

Raid Ngatahi ( % 77 24 40; www.kujirado.com; per person 18,000CFP) Runs whale-watching excursions south of

baie de Prony including lunch on Îlot Casy. It has a motorised boat.

Pacific Blue ( % 77 80 52; ggarnier-iruka@mail.com; adult/child 7500/5500CFP) Runs whale-watching trips in

the south on a catamaran.

Island Charter ( % 83 05 81; didiermrobert@yahoo.fr; adult/child 7500/5500CFP) Runs whale-watching trips on

a catamaran departing from Prony.

ée

From the summit there are great views of

Noumea and across the southern lagoon to

the faint line of surf at the reef. A walking

track at Mont-Dore Sud leads up the south-

ern slope to the summit. Turn off the RP2 at

the green Montée d’Eole signpost.

A disused mining path zigzags down the

eastern slope to the Col de Plum on the

RP1. Here, mountain-spring water gushes

or trickles (depending on the season) from

roadside drinking fountains where thirsty

hikers can fill up their bottles. Particularly

fit walkers can then climb the Peak aux Chèvres

on the opposite side of the road and follow

the summit to the whirring turbines at the

Plum wind farm on Mont Negandi (458m)

before descending to the beach south of

Plum. About 2km back towards Plum, is

the Plage de Carcassonne , a grassy park by the

beach with showers and toilets.

calm, picturesque spot by the sea. Its attrac-

tive ochre and yellow bungalows above the

beach have kitchenettes. Travellers wanting

peace and quiet should avoid the hotel’s

popular monthly theme nights on Fridays

or Saturdays.

Le Palais Sucré ( % 43 37 60; 26 Promenade du Vallon

Dore; pastries 80-225CFP; h 5am-noon & 3-7pm Tue-Sat,

5am-noon Sun) Stop at this patisserie for crispy

croissants, fruit tarts, millefeuilles and soft

brioches. It’s 400m from Le Vallon Dore

hotel.

La Ferme de Saint Louis ( % 43 54 82; Boulari; milk

shake 230CFP; h 8am-7pm) Next to Libre Service

St Michelle, a grocery store, is this small

farm shop, which isn’t signposted. It sells

pickles, jam, fresh eggs, and home-made

cakes but is best known for its fresh fruit

milk shakes. Its popularity is illustrated by

the queue outside the shop at weekends

when Noumeans returning home from the

Far South make it a compulsory stop. The

shop is a short distance from the Boulari

tourist information office on the way to St

Louis, just around the sharp bend. There

are usually a couple of cows grazing in the

small paddock next to the shop.

Sleeping & Eating

Le Vallon Dore ( % 43 32 08; fax 43 66 66; vallon_dore@

yahoo.fr; 62 Promenade du Vallon Dore; d/4-person bunga-

low 6900/9900CFP; lunch Wed-Fri 1500CFP, dinner Fri & Sat

2500-2900CFP, buffet lunch Sun 4750CFP; h closed Sun

dinner, Mon lunch & Tue; s ) This hotel sits in a

254 FAR SOUTH •• Parc Provincial de la Rivière Bleue

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FAR SOUTH •• Chutes de la Madeleine 255

Casino supermarket ( % 43 48 48; h 7.30am-

7.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-12.30pm Sun) There’s a su-

permarket at the roundabout at La Coulée.

Although there are small grocery stores in

some of the settlements in the Far South,

it’s best to stock up before you go.

symbol (see opposite). The park’s landscape

is a mixture of the Far South’s typical scrub

vegetation and dense rainforest where the

native palms and towering araucaria, houp

and kauri trees grow.

The park lies along the western shores

of the Lac de Yaté, an artificial lake. To the

west and northwest, the park’s boundary

encloses the Rivière Blanche and Rivière

Bleue, the lake’s main tributaries.

With your own vehicle you can drive

along the banks of Rivière Blanche to the end

of the road 18km from the park entrance.

At the mouth of Rivière Blanche is the old

wooden Pérignon bridge, which leads across

to the Rivière Bleue side of the park; it is too

frail to carry vehicles. The Rivière Bleue side

is, therefore, best explored by foot, bicycle

or kayak. Inquire about a shuttle bus on the

Rivière Bleue side that park management

was planning to introduce when we visited.

informative displays in French and English

on the birds, plants, insects and reptiles of

New Caledonia, as well as more specific

information on the park’s species.

Walks include leisurely half-hour ambles

and hikes lasting several hours. Visit Le

Palmetum, which features 14 different palm

species dotted along a short circular path, or

walk to le houp géant, the giant houp tree.

There are great picnic spots beside the

park’s streams and rivers or overlooking

Lac de Yaté. This dam, completed in 1958,

provides electricity for New Caledonia’s

national grid. Lac de Yaté’s drowned for-

est (fôret noyée) is a special feature of the

park especially when explored by kayak on

a moonlit night. The lake or dam flows out

into Yaté river, outside the park boundary,

where you can abseil down the impressive

120m Yaté waterfall.

Activities should be arranged with a tour

operator (p253) before arriving at the park.

time of writing. Otherwise, about 4km away,

there’s a camp site at Les Bois du Sud ( % 87 02 43;

park admission adult/child 1000/375CFP; camping per adult/

child 200CFP/free) . The hefty admission fee makes

it not really worth staying but at the time

of writing there was talk the fee would be

reduced. The camp site is in a woodland set-

ting by a small stream. There are shelters and

tables as well as toilets but no showers. The

tap water is not drinkable. The signposted

turn-off is about 100m past the park turn-off,

but on the opposite side of the road.

Getting There & Away

Carsud buses to Boulari (280CFP, 35 min-

utes), Mont-Dore Sud (400CFP, 55 minutes)

and Plum (400CFP, 1¼ hours) leave roughly

every 45 minutes from the corner of rue Paul

Doumer and rue d’Austerlitz in Noumea.

PARC PROVINCIAL

DE LA RIVIÈRE BLEUE

Heading east over the mountains toward Yaté

on the RP3 you have panoramic views of the

rolling red hills and the Plum wind turbines

silhouetted against the sky to the southwest.

About half way to Yaté is Parc Provincial de

la Rivière Bleue ( % 43 61 24; adult/child 400/200CFP;

h 7am-5pm Tue-Sun) This wonderful nature re-

serve is home to many endemic plant, rep-

tile and bird species, including the elusive

cagou , New Caledonia’s unofficial national

Getting There & Away

Phone before you go to make sure the park

is open as it remains closed in certain cir-

cumstances such as bad weather. For infor-

mation on transport options, see p251.

CHUTES DE LA MADELEINE

New Caledonians are proud of the Chutes

de la Madeleine ( % 46 92 47; adult/child 400/200CFP;

h 8am-5pm) . It’s about 11km from the turn-

off from the RP3 at the eastern end of Lac

de Yaté. Some even refer to the falls fondly

as the local Niagara Falls. Although that’s

very far-fetched, the small waterfall with its

surrounding miniature Jurassic-like land-

scape does have a legitimate claim to fame.

The scenery was used as a backdrop for the

1999 BBC series Walking with Dinosaurs,

which used computer-generated imagery to

recreate life in the Mesozoic era. The area

around the waterfall is a botanic reserve

where paths wind through the vegetation

and along the river bank.

Swimming is forbidden at the waterfall but

permitted about a kilometre downstream at

Sights & Activities

You can pick up a free map of the park

at the entrance gate. The Maison du Parc

(visitors centre) near the entrance gate has

Sleeping

You can inquire about camping in the park;

the possibility was being discussed at the

PARC PROVINCIAL DE LA RIVIÈRE BLEUE

3 miles

8 80

La Pourina

1148

1001

1038

Sentier

1101

1173

Cascade

des

Cascades

1165

1 072

1233

8 18

1200

Bleue

Sentier de

la Haute Pourina

1250

Cascade

Montagne Bleue

(940m)

Pont

Germain

1202

Sentier

des Kaoris

1 166

Pic du Rocher

(1018m)

405

Sentier du

Grand Kaori

Refuge de la

Rivière Bleue

Refuge des

Scientifiques

1045

502

Sentier

Panoramique

493

Parc Provincial

de la Rivière Bleue

La Forêt Noyée

(Drowned Forest)

582

CAGOU

The flightless cagou (Rhynocetos jubatus) is

a much-loved New Caledonian bird. Like the

kiwi in New Zealand, the bird is an unofficial

symbol for New Caledonia and the coun-

try’s sports teams are referred to as cagous

when competing overseas.

The cagou is about 50cm tall and has

soft grey plumage and crest, red eyes and

an orange beak. It has an unusual call that

sounds like a dog yapping.

In the wild, the place you are most likely

to see this bird is at Parc Provincial de la

Rivière Bleue.

1025

848

507

937

Reserve de la

Montagne

des Sources

772

Barrage de

la Dumbéa

Sud)

Pont Pérignon

803

Refuge des

Ornithologues

Lac de

Yaté

816

3 54

To Dumbéa

(5km)

Pic

Buses

(695m)

Blanche

Le Palmetum

Houp

Géant

515

Maison

du Parc

Monts Koghis

629

(1061m)

393

Mt Pouhedihi

(535m)

To Yaté

(38km)

Pic

Candide

(765m)

Ancien

Refuge

Col de

Ouénarou

(146m)

RP3 Pont

Gaüzère

Auberge du

Mont Koghi

Les Bois

du Sud

To Noumea (43km)

5 km

256 FAR SOUTH •• Yaté

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FAR SOUTH •• Port Boisé 257

Site de Netcha ( % 46 92 47; park admission adult/child

1000/500CFP; camping 200/100CFP). This camp site,

run by Aventure Pulsion, has a serene set-

ting with shelters and tables overlooking the

river. There are no showers but there are

wooden diving platforms over the water. The

tap water is not drinkable. The office sells a

few basic supplies including bottled water.

It also hires out kayaks and mountain bikes

(see p253 ).

If you don’t plan to camp and want to

avoid the entry fee, you can swim where the

road runs beside the river between Site de

Netcha and Chutes de la Madeleine.

Six kilometres south of Chutes de la

Madeleine the road crosses a small bridge

at a place known as la Capture, about 500m

before the intersection with the Prony to

Port Boisé road. If you turn left immedi-

ately after the bridge you can follow a scenic

route past Plaine des Lacs . This road, which

was unsealed at the time of writing, leads

past the Lac en Huit, a ‘figure eight lake’,

and Grand Lac and eventually loops round

to the main road near Port Boisé. Also at

the time of writing, a few kilometres past

Grand Lac, the road was closed for safety

reasons related to mining activity between

Thursday and Sunday.

The Chutes de la Madeleine are 70km,

about 1¼ hours by car, east of Noumea.

YATÉ

pop 1,850

A few kilometres past the Chutes de la

Madeleine turn-off, the RP3 leaves the

lakeshore and climbs steeply. Just before

the summit there’s a magnificent western

view, down the length of the lake. Over the

hill, the east coast comes into view and the

road descends quickly to join it. To the left

at the bottom of the escarpment the RP3

leads to Yaté village. To the right, another

road crosses a small bridge and heads south

towards Goro. It eventually loops around to

join the RP2 south of Plum.

The village of Yaté, with its hydroelectric

plant fed by Lac de Yaté, is squeezed between

the side of a mountain and the Yaté river

mouth. There’s a shop and a petrol pump,

Le Rond Point ( % 46 41 56; h 7am-noon & 2.30-6pm,

closed Sun afternoon) at the end of the road.

Travellers not looking for supplies or pet-

rol usually head south over the small bridge

at the bottom of the escarpment to camp

sites and gîtes (small hotels) in the tribus

(Kanak communities) of Wao, Touaourou

and Goro.

The signposted turn-off to the gîte is about

3km south of Wao.

Gîte St Gabriel ( % 46 42 77; www.gitesaintgabriel

.com; bungalow d modern/traditional 7500/6500CFP, camp-

ing adult/child 700/350CFP; meals 1900CFP; canoe/bike hire

half-day 500CFP) This gîte with its wide lawns

sweeping down to the beach is 3km south

of Touaourou. At low tide the water recedes

a long way from the beach leaving behind

delightful rock pools and stranded crabs

scurrying for cover. The gîte is renowned

for its seafood platters (4600CFP), which

should be ordered 24 hours in advance. It

has thatched traditional reed bungalows as

well as modern concrete and mortar ones.

Snack Gnante ( % 46 40 40; dishes 850CFP; h 6am-

7pm) About 1km south of Touaourou on the

main road there’s a small restaurant. It’s not

fancy but the food’s good. Dishes include

prawns and rice, and octopus salad.

Buses from Noumea go to Touaourou via

Yaté and Wao. See p251 for details.

PORT BOISÉ

The scrub landscape suddenly changes to

thick forest just before you arrive at Port

Boisé, which is 6.5km from the turn-off on

the main road. The forest grows to the edge

of the beach and enhances the isolation of

this bay. When the tide’s out it’s too shal-

low to swim, but at high tide the edge of the

fringing reef is good for snorkelling.

Gîte Kanua ( % 46 90 00; fax 46 91 22; s/d bungalow

with breakfast & dinner 7350/14,700CFP, camping per adult/

child 800/500CFP) is the only infrastructure here.

There are four thatched traditional-style

bungalows and a small camp site with shel-

ters and tables. The restaurant is renowned

for seafood dishes with a local touch. Book

accommodation and meals in advance.

The gîte organises excursions to off-

shore islets and 4WD tours. These activi-

ties cost 10,000CFP for two people. Other

activities include kayaking, canoeing and

windsurfing. It also organises bougna meals

(3600CFP) for visitors at a local tribu .

There are enjoyable walking tracks along

the coast and to a lookout behind the gîte .

some wind turbines at Col de Prony before

dropping down to the southern plain. Port

Boise is around two hours from Noumea.

PRONY & ÎLOT CASY

The tranquil old penal centre Prony lies at

the foot of a hill that dips down to the coast.

It’s nestled in dense vegetation. A stream runs

through the hushed village of corrugated-

iron cottages and overgrown stone ruins.

Prony was first set up as a logging base in

1867 to supply timber to Noumea before be-

coming a convict camp. The convict camp

was closed in 1911. Today, the cottages are

mainly weekend homes for Noumeans.

About 500m south of the village is baie

de la Somme which is part of the large baie

de Prony. Baie de la Somme is the southern

starting point for the GR1 walking track (see

p251 ). Excursions to the picturesque Îlot

Casy, in the middle of the larger bay, and

whale-watching trips (from July to Septem-

ber) also leave from here (see p253). The

clear waters that surround Îlot Casy are a

marine reserve and are great for snorkelling.

Unlike the red beach at Prony, this peaceful,

forested island has soft, white beaches.

Casy Express ( % 79 32 60; casyexpress@lagoon.nc;

adult/child 2200/1200CFP) operates a water taxi

service to Îlot Casy and tours to baie du

Carénage in baie de Prony where there are

hot springs and a waterfall.

Aiguille de Prony (Prony Needle) is a

well-known diving site in the bay (see p221).

Trips can be arranged from Noumea (see

p224). La Forêt de Corail is another great

dive site as the coral is phosphorescent.

By car it’s about 1½ hours from Noumea

to Prony. The shortest route is via Plum.

Getting There & Away

Buses from Noumea stop at Yaté (see p251),

Wao (600CFP, 2¼ hours) and Touaourou

(700CFP, 2½ hours).

By car, Yaté is about 1½ hours from Nou-

mea. Follow the RP3. Otherwise, tours can

be easily arranged (see p253).

WAO, TOUAOUROU & GORO

All the way to Goro, the road runs along

the coastline through luxuriant vegetation.

The hills rise on one side and you can catch

fleeting glimpses of the sea on the other.

Wao is the first tribu you pass through and

you might catch a game at its roadside soc-

cer field. About 5km kilometres further on

is Touaourou, on the sea front. Turn off the

main road here to have a peek inside the

church with its traditional wooden carvings

around the altar.

Continuing towards the south you reach

the tribu of Goro, not to be confused with

the site of the large Goro Nickel processing

plant that’s currently under construction

around 19km further south. About 1km

past Goro the road passes beside the Cas-

cade de Wadiana . The waterfall tumbles into

a deep rock pool just before the river enters

the sea. The pool is a popular swimming

hole for both locals and visitors. Besides

being rundown, the camp site opposite is

not the quietest place to stay because of

the many visitors (both tourists and locals)

stopping at the waterfall.

Shortly after the waterfall you’ll come

across the remnants of an iron mining op-

eration that was run by the Japanese and

abandoned at the start of WWII. Giant

rusting metal structures protruding into the

sea are all that remain of the site where the

ore was once loaded onto ships.

Sleeping

The only accommodation options are on

Îlot Casy.

Drinkable spring water is available on

the island. However, visitors should take all

other provisions with them and carry out

their rubbish when they leave.

Visitors can rent the rooms at Hôtel Casy

( % 26 47 77; d 4000CFP) even though it’s offi-

cially closed. Bring your own bedding and

food. To make a reservation, call in the

evening when the caretaker is indoors or

leave him a message through Casy Express

( % 79 32 60; casyexpress@lagoon.nc ). Casy Express

also arranges camping (per tent 500CFP) .

Sleeping & Eating

Gîte IYA ( % 46 90 80; 3-person bungalow 5000CFP,

camping per tent 1500CFP; meals 1800CFP; h closed Sun

dinner) Cocooned in a coconut grove, this

gîte has a beach enclosed by coral cliffs. It

has rustic but comfortable bungalows and

a cosy atmosphere. When the sea is calm,

snorkelling is stunning along the fringing

reef that drops vertically into the depths.

Getting There & Away

By car take either the RP3 to Yaté or the

RP1 to Plum and continue to Port Boisé.

You can also cut across from the former

road at the Chutes de la Madeleine. The

latter route leads you up to a viewpoint by

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