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a perfect fifty-four or take your archery
with a dash of small game hunting, you will find
keen enjoyment in this ancient sport. Making
the
tackle is simple.
Size of tackle:
The first thing to know is what
size of bow and length of arrow to use. This de-
pends entirely on your physique, and particularly
your reach. If your reach is 64
in.,
you can use an
arrow 25 to 26 in. long, with a bow not less than
5 ft. 3 in. from tip to tip,
Fig.
5. The weight of the
bow, that
is,
the number of pounds pull required
to draw it, depends on your muscular develop-
ment. Most men can draw a 50 to 60-lb. bow, but
a 35 to 40-lb. bow is the best weight for general
shooting, and good scores can be made with the
25
and 30-pounders.
The long bow:
The long bow has a deep or
SIDE
BACK
"stacked" body, which is generally recognized as
438
POPULAR MECHANICS
scale, as shown in
Fig. 10.
Bend the bow gradually. Take off a
shaving here and there to equalize the bend. Take your time.
You can always take off more wood, but you can't put it back
on again. The bow should be quite stiff for a distance of about
6 in. atthe center, and should then curve evenly to the tips. The
beginner's most common fault is to make the bow "whip ended,"
Fig.
9.
Besides checking the curvature, sight down the bow as
you work and note if the string cuts the center of the belly, as
in Fig.
7.
If it throws off to the side, your bow
has
a turn in it.
This can be corrected by taking off wood opposite the turn.
If desired, you can back your bow with red or black fiber
attached with waterproof glue before the shaping
is
started. In-
stead of cutting plain nocks, you may decide
to
purchase
and
fit
a set of cow-horn tips, or, you may want to turn them from col-
orful plastic. It will be noted, Fig.
3,
that plain nocks are not
cut across the back of the bow as this would weaken the wood.
The groove in horn or plastic tips, however, is let into the back.
The
flat
bow:
The flat bow is easier to make than the long one
,
MARCH,
1941
439
the nocks 1in. from each end, Fig.
3,
using a round file, Fig. 2.
Make a bowstring from upholsterer's twine, as shown in Fig. 1,
and brace the bow as in Fig. 6. When the bow is braced the
height of the string from the center of the bow should be about
equal to the width of the hand and thumb with the latter stuck
out as in Fig. 28. You can now "tiller" it to check the bend of
both limbs, atthe same time measuring the weight with a spring
and can be
3
or 4
in.
shorter for the same
length arrow. The same general method of
bandsawing is used, Fig. 8, but the belly
side is only lightly rounded off. Typical
sections of a 40-lb. flat bow are given in
Fig.
11.
The handle riser can be the same
or of a contrasting wood to the bow itself.
The narrow plate, which prevents wear, is
inlaid, using a .%-in. disk of %-in. plastic.
Self
arrows: A "self" arrow is one made
from
a
single piece of wood. The simplest
way to make self arrows is to buy a con-
struction kit, which includes the Kc-in.
dowel sticks, feathers and heads. Birch is
the best wood to use. The various parts
and dimensions of the arrow are shown in
Fig. 12. First put on the head. A number
of different ones can be purchased, but for
average target work the brass parallel pile
head is most satisfactory. Cut the tenon on
the end of the shaft by turning on
a
lathe,
Fig.
14. If
you are careful, the head will be
a drive
fit
and will hold securely.
If
the
head is a bit loose, anchor it with a few
punch taps as shown in Fig.
16.
Cut the
arrows to the required length and then cut
the noclrs. Plain nocks
can
be cut easily
by running the shafts over a circular saw,
as in Fig.
13.
The nock should be across
the grain.
If
you want more strength at the
nock, insert a thin slip of fiber or plastic.
Aluminum or molded-plastic nocks
are
POPULAR
MECHANICS
very attractive and are
fitted by tenoning the
endof the shaft the same
as in fitting the head.
Fletching is the hard
part of arrow making.
However, if you use one
of the jigs shown in
Figs. 17 and 19, you will
be able to turn out good
work at a fair rate of
speed. Turkey feathers
can be purchased al-
ready cut, or you can
strip your own feathers by grasping the the top and bottom members. The upper
vane at the tip and pulling outward, as ring is removable, being a press fit over
shown inFig.
15,
afterwardcuttingthe vane
the three spacing dowels.
to the required shape. The one-feather
Footed
arrows: Footed arrows are more
fletching jig shown in Figs. 17 and 18 is
decorative and more durable than self ar-
built around a paper clip.
A
disk of ply-
rows. The footing is made from any tough
wood, which slips over the shaft, is drilled hardwood, and is slotted for a distance of
with three small holes to supply an index-
5%
in., Fig.
20.
Shafts are usually Port
ing head, and is prevented from slipping by
Orford cedar or Norway pine, and are ta-
means of a piece of spring wire. One feath- pered to fit the slot in the footing. Perfect
er
at
a time is clamped by the paper clip tapering of the shafts can be done by the
and pressed into position. Any type of ad-
circular-saw method shown in Figs. 21 and
hesive can be used. Celluloid cement has
24.
The taper should be made with the flat
the advantage of quick drying and the of the grain. The shaft is assembled to the
ability to anchor on lacquer, thus allowing footing with waterproof glue and the as-
the shafts to be painted previous to fletch- sembly is then clamped or wrapped with
ing. Waterproof glue on bare wood is the twine or rubber strips as
in
Fig.
22.
Other
most 'durable. In the three-feather jig, than a special tenoning jig, the best method
the feathers are held between metal plates, of rounding the footing to match the rest
one plate of each set fitting into grooves in of the shaft is by turning, Fig.
23.
Nocks
MARCH, 1941
441
POI
WII
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hunting-bow.pdf
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Manual for building a c. 40 lbs. Longbow.pdf
(283 KB)
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