Janina Pants Instructions.pdf

PATTERN

your size. Choose your size at the lines marked "lengthen or

shorten here". Thus the proper fit is preserved.

Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one pattern by the

same amount at the same lines.

A B 1 Front pant 2x

A B 2 Pocket 2x

A B 3 Haunch yoke 2x

A B 4 Back pant 2x

A B 5 Front waist band 4x

A B 6 Back Waist band 4x

B 7 Cover 4x

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as

far as necessary. Even out the side edges.

Paper cut for US LETTER ANSI A (German DIN A4)

prints : The patterns are printed out on 32 sheets with a thin

frame. Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the

sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the

overview of the prints). Cut off the single sheets on the

upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with

the left lower sheet and then glue the parts in the frame

lines together precisely.

Select your size according to the Burda Size Chart: Dresses,

blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size,

trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change the

patterns about those inches (cm) if necessary, to fit your

measurements if they deviate from the Burda Size Chart.

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the centre line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the

pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

A B

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to

the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are

facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the left side. The

pattern pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram,

extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from

a single layer of fabric.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

= Upper waist band edge 3/5” (1.5 cm) below the waist.

For sizes 10 to 22 draw the stitch line for the zipper on

piece 1. The length between the zipper and stitch line

should remain the same regardless of size. (see size 8)

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included

on an average:

1 5/8” (4 cm) for the hem, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges and

stitches. Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern

lines and marks onto the left side of the fabric pieces. You

will find instructions in the packet.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If

you are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit

Interfacing

Cut interfacing according to the drawing and

press onto the left (wrong) fabric side

SEWING

When sewing, the right sides of the fabric

should be facing.

Transfer all lines on the pattern using a

basting stitch onto the right side of the

fabric.

A B

Pant dart

1) Stitch dart of the back pant. Knot thread

ends. Press darts towards the center back

(1a).

Crease

2) Fold front pant at the marked CREASE

line, turned inside out. Press crease.

Covers / back pant

3) Position the cover piece with interfacing

onto a cover without interfacing, with right

sides facing. Stitch edges according to

drawing. Trim allowances and neaten. Turn

right side out. Baste edges, press. Trim

allowances of the edges and neaten. Insert a

button hole into the cover.

4) Baste right side of the cover onto the line

and stitch. Secure stitch ends. Press cover

downwards.

A B

Hip yoke pockets

5) Position pockets onto the front pant, right

sides facing, baste pocket opening edges

together (seam 1) and stitch. Trim

allowances. Fold pockets inside and baste.

Press edge and stitch topstitch close to the

edge.

6) Pin the front pant onto the hip yoke, so

that the pocket opening meets the placement

line. Rights sides of pocket and haunch yoke

are facing. Baste pocket opening edges.

7) Baste pocket onto the hip yoke, Leave the

front pant aside and do not baste. Stitch.

Neaten allowances.

Baste the side, upper and front edges of the

hip yoke onto the front pant. Attention , trim

off the allowance of the front edge of the

right haunch yoke at the front center (arrow).

A B

Side seams /Inner pant leg seams

8) Position front pants onto back pants, right

sides facing, baste side seams and inner pant

leg seams (seam 3) and stitch.

Drawing shows A

Neaten allowances and press apart

9) Fold pant legs so that the inner leg seam

faces the side seam, inside out. Press the

CREASE into the inner pant side.

A B

Front center seam

10) Fold a pant leg inside out. Move pant

legs into one another, right sides facing. Sew

center front seam from slit mark on the

diagram towards the inner pant leg seams.

Neaten seam ends. Trim allowances at the

curvatures. Neaten allowances, also the

allowances of the front covers.

Zipper

11) Baste inside the fly cover of the right

front pant at the front center.

= Allow the cover a 2/5” (1 cm) underlap at

the left front pant, that will cover the zipper

later on. Fold and baste rest cover, press.

12) Baste Fly Facing close to the zipper teeth

onto the zipper tape and stitch narrowly.

13) Close zipper. Close and pin slit center

onto center.

14) Baste zipper tape onto the right border,

being sure not to catch the pant pieces.

Stitch.

15) Stitch right slit edge as marked,

including the cover.

Waist band

Position front waistbands onto the back waist

bands (all including interfacing), right sides

facing. Stitch side seams (seam 4). Stitch

side seams without interfacing the same way.

Press allowances apart.

16) Baste waistbands including interfacing

onto upper pant edges (seam 5), facing right

to right, side seams meet. Stitch. Trim

allowances and fold and press inside the

waist.

Center Back Seam

17) Move pant legs into one another facing

right to right. Stitch back center seam,

through the waist band as well, so the waist

entry seams meet. Press allowances apart

from top downwards to the curvatures. Stitch

the back center seam on the waist band

pieces without interfacing. Press allowances

apart. Press the allowance of the bottom

waistband edge upwards.

18) Pin waistband onto the already stitched

waistband, right sides facing, with side

seams and back center seam meet. Stitch

upper edge onto front edges – right hand at

the front center, left hand at the edge of the

fly facing underlap. Trim allowances, cut

corners diagonally.

19) Turn waistband. Baste edges, press.

Baste inside half of waistband onto the entry

seam. Stitch waistband edges narrowly, stitch

the inner half. Sew a buttonhole into the right

front waist band edge. Apply BUTTON onto

underlap.

B Apply button, matching the cover, onto the

back pant, using an interfacing supporting

piece of fabric.

Hem

20) Neaten hem, fold and baste, press. Hand

sew hem.

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