bathing Beautie shed.pdf

Bathing box (frame exposed)

Bathing

beauties

(

Bathing box on the outside, garden shed on the

inside.You won’t hide these huts in a corner!

)

2 4

0ADBOLT

(INGE

Set out for gable (item G)

Item M

Better

H omes

and Gardens ®

CHRISTMAS 2004

All measurements in mm

20mm grid

● U Architrave (total) 42 x

18 x 3900mm LOSP pine

● V Threshold 90 x 18 x

500mm LOSP pine

● W Gable trim (2) 42 x18 x

816mm LOSP pine

● X Shelving (as required) 70

x 22 x 780mm treated pine

Here’s how

STEP 1 Cut the posts and

noggings (A, B) to length.

From the bottom of each

post, measure up 170, 590,

1000 and 1400mm to mark

the positions of the top of the

noggings. Predrill, then screw

each side frame together to

form a ladder shape. There

are more noggings than you

actually need, but they are

useful to act as shelf supports

later on.

Gather your supplies

For making one shed

● A Posts (4) 70 x 35 x

1700mm treated pine

● B Noggings (10) 70 x 35 x

350mm treated pine

● C Long rails (4) 70 x 35 x

640mm treated pine

● D Short rails (4) 70 x 35 x

350mm treated pine

● E Jambs (2) 70 x 35 x

1460mm treated pine

● F Flooring (6) 70 x 22 x

780mm pine decking

● G Gables (2) 870 x 435 x

19mm exterior plywood

● H1 Lower battens (6) 42 x

18 x 418mm LOSP pine

● H2 Upper battens (6) 42 x

18 x 526mm LOSP pine

● I Spacers (2) 66 x 18 x

418mm LOSP pine

● J Roofing (2) 526 x 0.4 x

574mm galvanised steel

● K Ridge cap 40 x 40 x 2 x

526mm aluminium angle

● L Barge caps (4) 42 x 18 x

598mm LOSP pine

● M Finial 66 x18 x 260mm

LOSP pine

● N1 Barge boards (2) 66 x

18 x 695mm LOSP pine

● N2 Barge boards (2) 66 x

18 x 645mm LOSP pine

● O Fascia (2) 42 x 18 x

526mm LOSP pine

● P Cladding (total) 18 x

130mm cover x 25m treated

pine cladding

● Q Corner trim (4) 40 x 40 x

2 x 1570mm aluminium

angle

● R Door 1435 x 495 x 19mm

exterior plywood

● S Door stiles (2) 90 x 18 x

1435mm LOSP pine

● T Door rails (3) 90 x 18 x

315mm LOSP pine

You’ll also need

150mmT hinges (2); pad bolt;

paintable sealant; paint

Note: The cladding and door

options are many and varied.

You can use weatherboards,

plywood, steel or other sheet

materials. The easiest way to

make a door is to start with a

sheet of plywood and dress it

to suit your tastes. As the cost

of hiring gas-driven nail guns

has come down to around

$40 a day plus consumables,

it may be worth hiring this

machine with galvanised nails

as there is a lot of nailing in

this project.

STEP 2 Build the floor and

top frames by screwing the

long rails (C) to the short rails

(D). Screw

Continued overleaf

These cute garden sheds were inspired by the

bathing boxes which first appeared on Melbourne’s

Brighton beach circa 1860

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!LLMEASUREMENTSAREINMM

While these two bathing boxes

look different, their structure is

identical.The only variations are

the colour, cladding and doors.

to mark out and cut the finial

(M), then nail it to the batten

ends and caps. Finish off the

roof gable ends and make the

sharp steel edges safe with

front and back barge boards

(N1, N2). They look great if

the bottom edge has a slight

wave shape. Nail the fascia

(O) between the barges, again

aligning so they cover the

steel edges. Place the whole

assembly on top of the box

frame and screw on from the

underside, leaving an 18mm

overhang at the back to take

the cladding.

STEP 7 Cut door (R) to size,

then, taking size from the

door, prepare door stiles and

rails (S,T). For an internal

frame, screw onto back of

door, and if frame is to be

exposed, screw on from the

back – the frame helps stop

door from warping.

STEP 8 Test fit door in its

opening and use a power

planer to trim so it fits easily.

Fit T hinges to face of door.

Prop bottom up on cardboard,

pre-drill, then screw hinges to

face of shed. Add a pad bolt.

Complete door with architrave

(U), fitting around barrel of

the hinge and the pad bolt

keeper. Add a threshold (V)

and gable trim (W) to cover

join between gable and

cladding. Seal joins between

capping and barges, and

between gable trim and gable,

with a paintable sealant.

Add shelving (X) across the

noggins as required.

to the side frames to form

the basic box frame, then

measure and add the jambs

(E) which are screwed edge-

to-edge to the side frames.

Cut the flooring timbers (F),

notching the outer ones to fit

around the posts, then nail

down to the bottom frame.

It may be necessary to plane

one board slightly so the floor

boards are a loose fit to allow

for a little expansion.

add an overhang at the back

and increase roofing, ridge

and fascia widths to suit. Nail

battens into the notches, then

add the spacers (I) between

the bottoms of the gables,

flush with the plumb cut.

STEP 6 Cut the cladding (P)

to suit the width of the sides,

back and front side panels. Nail

to the frame starting 130mm

from ground level. Mark and

cut the cladding board over the

door to suit the opening. Add

corner trim (Q) at each corner.

STEP 9 And now for the

real fun! Give your shed

some hot colour. We used

bright blue (Dulux Mykonos

and Island Light), yellow

(Dulux Fluffy Duckling) and

red (Dulux Eye of Newt), to

keep that cheery summer

feeling all year round.

STEP 4 Cut the roofing (J) to

size and screw to the battens

at about 200 to 250mm

spacings along the roof. Pre-

drill through the tops of the

corrugations and use roofing

screws with a neoprene seal

to keep the roof watertight.

Add the ridge cap (K) to cover

the top roofing join.

Stockists: Bathing boxes built by

Nikos Grammenos, (02) 4751 6190 .

Timber and all building materials,

Warringah Timbers, (02) 9981 3733 or

www.warringahtimbers.com Power

tools, Bosch Australia, 1300 307 044.

Paint, Dulux, 13 25 25. BH&G

STEP 3 Mark out the

gables (G) with a roof slope

of 45˚. Once you have the

basic triangle, then use the

dimensions on the diagram

(right) to mark in the 42 x

18mm notches and plumb

cut at the fascia ends. Cut

out the gables with a power

or hand saw, and cut the

notches with a jigsaw. Screw

the lower battens (H1) to the

upper battens (H2) to give an

18mm overhang at one end.

This automatically gives a

front eave of 70mm. There

is no overhang at the back

so the unit can be pushed

against a wall or fence. For a

freestanding shed, you could

STEP 5 Cut the barge caps

(L) with a 45º angle at each

end and screw through the

roof to the battens, making

sure they are flush with batten

ends. Use the gridded diagram

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