A230_v02.pdf

8. Unisex Bodice Block

8.1 Introduction of x values

OTMS

The unisex bodice block is an androgynously oriented block with consideration for elastic materials. The draft offers two

programmes:

the unisex bodice block and the unisex bodice block with dart

The differs from the in containing a bust dart and fitted side seams. The

following instructions relate to both programmes. Picture 8 shows the drafting instructions for the bust point and bust dart.

The x values x21 to x22 are of no significance for the . The offers three variations,

the applies to variation 1, only. The drafting instructions relate to options 1 and 2; the drafting

of length and width measurements for option 3 ensues with finished measurements.

unisex bodice block

unisex bodice block with dart

unisex bodice block

Variation 1:

Variation 2:

Variation 3:

Application of g values as body

measurements

Application of g values as body

measurements

Application of g values as finished measurements

i.e. use of x values for ease and elasticity is

omitted

i.e. addition of ease ensues via x values

x15=2anduBr=g1

When using numeric value 2 the

programme applies the body

measurement u Br (bust) consisting of

one g value, only. Grading ensues via the

value x15.

other body measurements required:

uGe=g2

lGe=g10

lTa=g5

uHa=g16

(u Ta is not applied, see x15)

Prerequisites:

x15 = 2 and g50 = 1

When using numeric value 2 the programme

applies the finished measurement w Br. g50 is to

be assigned with 1. Generation of individual

measurement chart with the finished

measurements required:

wBr=g1

x15 = 0 (fitted side seams via assignment

of x3)

x15 = 1 (addition to waist via assignment

of x3)

When using numeric values 0 or 1 the

programme applies the following

u Br (bust) = g7+2*g34+g33

other body measurements required:

uGe=g2

STUFE 2: GRUNDTYP

lGe=g10

wGe=g2

uHa=g16

lTa=hTV-g5

lSqorbAk=g29

lGe=g10

lAc=hAV=g40

(w Ta is not applied, see x15)

uTa=g4

uHa=g16

lTa=g5

Description

Standard Value

product length or style length

addition to bust in mm (z Br)

shape waist at side seam / addition to waist in mm

addition to hip / hem in % of z Br

addition to across back in % of z Br

height relocate waist

height relocate scye box

shoulder angle front

shoulder angle back

700

120

33,3

x10

x11

x12

x13

x14

x15

x16

x17

x18

x19

increase shoulder

ease shoulder back

drop neckline at CF

increase neckline at shoulder point

drop neckline at CB

(1) for use of x3 as addition to waist / (2) u Br grading

reduce armhole front at h AV (armhole height)

surplus length bodice

waistband height bodice

elasticity length in %

x20

x21

x22

x23

x24

x25

elasticity width in %

bust dart in %

relocate bust point towards side seam

relocate bust point downwards

distance upper dart line to armhole

maximum angle for draft with dart

PIAS

unisex bodice block with dart

Prerequisites:

x value

PIAS

8.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

product length or style length

(x 1) The value x1 relates to the required finished length of the style. The default

setting is 700 mm and can be altered as required. When using x17 the surplus

length is considered by the programme,i.e. it is added to the style length. The

waistband height is subtracted through application of x18.

addition to bust

(x 2)

The default setting is 120 mm and corresponds with ease for knitwear. The

following ease at bust is recommended:

knitwear:0 - 120 mmsportswear: 120 - 150 mm

blouses: 60 - 120 mm for loose fitting, 120 - 200 mm for medium loose fitting

and 200 - 350 mm for very loose fitting

The default setting is 0. x3 offers a pre-set fitting on each of the side seams at

waist. For the 15 mm are pre-set.

Prerequisite for the addition to waist is assignment of x15 with numeric value

1 and positive assignment of x3.

Guidelines for ease at waist (z Ta) in relation to addition to bust (z Br):

z Ta = z Br or more for loose fitting garments

z Ta = 1/3 z Br or less for fitted garments

shape waist at side seam

(x3)

unisex bodice block with dart

addition to waist

(x3)

addition to hip or hem in % of z Br

(x4)

With the default setting of 33.3% hip or hem obtain 1/3 of the addition to bust

which is pre-set to 120 mm. Guideline for ease at hip in relation to addition to

bust: z Ge = 1/3 to 2/3 z Br

addition to across back in % of z Br

(x5)

T he addition to across back is 40% of addition to bust which is pre-set to

120 mm. The addition relates to the complete across back measurement.

height relocate waist

(x6)

The default setting is 0 so that the body measurement nape to waist CB is

maintained. A negative value lengthens the nape to waist CB measurement,

a positive value shortens it.

height relocate scye box

(x7)

The default setting 0 reflects the body measurement. A negative value increases

the measurement h Ac and the armhole, a negative value reduces h Ac and

armhole.

shoulder angle front

(x8)

The default setting for the front shoulder angle is 18. For sloping shoulders the

value can be increased to obtain a steeper shoulder angle.

shoulder angle back

(x9)

This x value influences the back shoulder angle and is pre-set to 16. For high

shoulders the value can be reduced which raises the shoulder.

increase shoulder

(x10)

Front and back shoulder are increased by the pre-set value 10 mm. x10 should be

applied in conjunction with x5 (addition to across back). As a rule the following

applies: x10 = +/- 10 mm. When using shoulder pads the shoulder can be

increased by the shoulder pad height.

ease shoulder back

(x11)

The default setting is 0. The ease added is regarded as gathering width.

drop neckline at CF

(x12)

Increase neckline at CF, shoulder front and back and CB. Guidelines for

increasing the neckline:

drop at CF > increase at shoulder > drop at CB, e.g.

CF 15 mm, shoulder 10 mm, CB 6 mm

increase neckline at shoulder point

(x13)

drop neckline at CB

(x14)

OTMS

8. Unisex Bodice Block

8. Unisex Bodice Block

8.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

(0) for application of x3

as fitted side seams

(x15)

set value to 0:the value x3 is interpreted as reduction at waist. NB: do not go

below u Ta

set value to 1:the value x3is interpreted as the required waist width

set value to 2 and assign g1 u Br for variation 2 or w Br for variation 3. The waist

can be fitted at the side seams, subsequently with x3 as the required w Ta is not

considered.

(1) for application of x3

as addition to waist

(2) u Br grading

(x15)

reduce armhole front at

armhole height

(x16 )

The default setting is 7 mm. A negative value makes the armhole curve more

shallow / reduces the curve.

surplus length bodice

(x17)

The surplus length for the bodice is pre-set to 0 and is dependent on the material. It

gives added freedom of movement and when assigned is added to the style length (x1)

waistband height bodice

(x18)

The default setting is 0 and is subtracted from the style length.

elasticity length in %

(x19)

The default setting is 0, i.e. stretch material not considered. With a positive

assignment the programme reduces all length measurements of the draft by

the amount given.

elasticity width in %

(x20)

The default setting is 0, i.e. no stretch material considered. With a positive

assignment the programme reduces all width measurements of the draft by the

amount given.

example: width of stretch material relaxed: 10cm= 100%

width of stretch material stretched: 11cm=110%

difference10%

The x value is assigned with the difference amount so that the width

measurements are reduced by 10%.

bust dart in %

(x21)

With the default setting of 50 % half of the bust dart (g24) from the

measurement chart is applied. Especially for large bust volume and the ensuing

shortened front length x21 can be increased and the dart width can be added to

the front length by the programme, balancing calculated and actual measured

front length.

relocate bust dart towards side

seam

(x22)

The default setting is 30 mm. Setting the value to 0 places the bust point into the

centre of the front width. A positive value (max. 50 mm) moves the bust point

towards the side seam, a negative value (max. -50 mm) moves it towards the CF.

relocate bust point downwards

(x23)

The default setting is 0. The position of the bust point is determined by the bust

length, i.e. g30 - back neck. A positive value (max. 50 mm) moves the bust point

downwards, a negative value (max. -50 mm) upwards.

distance upper dart line to armhol (x24)

The default setting is 20 mm. A positive value increases the distance to the

intersection armhole / side seam, a negative value reduces the distance.

maximum angle for draft with dart (x25)

When working with bust dart, x25 has to be set to equal or larger than the bust

suppression angle (g24). With the default setting of 19 the bust dart is opened

from size 44 only, as the bust suppression angle from the measurement chart

equals 19. For use of bust dart in size 38, x25 is to be reduced to the value of

the bust suppression angle.

PIAS

(x15)

OTMS

PIAS

8. Unisex Bodice Block

8.3 Drafting Instructions

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from to distance

Drafting length measurements

hSaor

down

nape to hem line L Sa =

style

length

(x1 + x17 - x18) * Dl,

i.e. the style length plus surplus length

minus waistband is multiplied by length

elasticity Dl

Dl = 100 / (x19 + 100%)

h AV down

nape to scye line L AV =

(

1/4 g5+1/8 u Br+ x2- x7 )*Dl

i.e. the body measurement nape to waist

B (g5) is divided by 4 plus one eighth of

bust girth plus a quarter of addition x2

minus relocate scye h AV (x7) multiplied

by length elasticity;u Br represents the f

ollowing:variation 1: g7 + 2* g34 + g33

i.e. xback+ 2*scye width + xbust

when x15=0orx15=1

for variation 2: g1, i.e. bust

when x15 = 2

l Ta

down

nape to waist line = g5 * Dl

h TV down

nape to relocated waist =

(g5 - x6)* Dli.e. nape to waist CB (g5)

minus height relocate waist multiplied by

length

elasticity

lGe

LTVbisLGe=g10*Dl

Drafting the basic grid by applying the width measurements

1/2

left

bRü

½ b Rü (across back) =

(

1/8 u Br + 55 mm+ ½ z Rü)*Dq

i.e. the measurement u Br is divided by 8

plus constant 55 mm plus half addition to

xback multiplied by width elasticity Dq

u Br = g7 + 2*g34 + g33 or g1

z Rü = 1/100 x2 * x5

Dq = 100 / (x20 + 100%)

1/2 g29 left

½ g29 applies to option 3, only

1/2

left

1/2 b Rü =

bRü

(1/8uBr+55mm+1/2zRü)*Dq

1/2 g29 left

½ g29 applies to option3, only

1/4

left

creates intersec. point 7 at side s

wBr

w Br= (u Br + x2) * Dq

1/4

left

Ergibt Schnittpunkt 9 auf

at side

wGe

wGe=(g2+zGe)*Dq

z Ge = (1/100 x2 * x4) * Dq

left

produces point 10 at intersection of side

seam and hem

wGe

Close grid: three rectangles are created by connecting P11 with P6, draw side

seam from P7 to P10

8. Unisex Bodice Block

8.3 Drafting Instructions

OTMS

PIAS

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from to

distance

L TV left

creates intersec point 8a at side

HP2

Reduce waist

11 HP1

right

creates P8 at fitted side seam

prerequisite: x15 = 0

Draw side seam from P7 through P8 and resulting P9' to P10

Increase waist at side seam (not displayed)

1/4

left

creates P8 at flared side seamprerequisite:

x15=1

wTa=(uTa+x3)*Dq

wTa

Draw side seam from P7 through P8 to P10

Auxiliary triangle for neck

Hp1 160 mm left

constant

draw auxiliary line

HP1 HP2

50 mm up

draw auxiliary line

constant

HP2 0

auxiliary

triangle

auxiliary triangle; all back neck heights are

placed on the created side of the rectangle

b Hl h left

back neck width b Hl h =

(1/5(g16 + 30mm) -

i.e. the base of neck measurement (g16)

+30mm multiplied by one fifth minus

15mm multiplied by width elasticity

15mm)* Dq

HP2

HP1

h Hl h up

intersection point 13 is created on the side

of the auxiliary triangle

l Hl h = line P0 P13

LSuh

lengthen

the direction is controllable via angle x9

P14 is a result of the intersection of the

lengthened line and line P6 P11

13 ; 14

x10*Dq+x11

i.e. the shoulder increase multiplied with

the width elasticity plus back shoulder

ease

Draw neckline from P13 to P0, measure back neck length (l Hl h)

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