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Mumbai (Bombay)
Why Go?
Mumbai is a beautiful mess, full of dreamers and hard-
labourers, actors and gangsters, stray dogs and exotic birds,
artists and servants, sherfolk and
crorepatis
(millionaires),
and lots more. Its crumbling architecture in various states
of Technicolor dilapidation is a reminder that Mumbai once
dreamt even bigger, leaving a brick-and-mortar museum
around its maze of chaotic streets as evidence that its place
in the world has always been a poetic disaster.
Today Mumbai is home to the most proli c lm industry,
one of Asia’s biggest slums and the largest tropical forest
in an urban zone. It’s India’s nancial powerhouse, fashion
epicentre and a pulse point of religious tension. Between
the fantastical architecture and the modern skyscrapers, the
ne dining and frenetic streets, the urban grit and suburban
glamour, the madness and the mayhem, there’s a cinematic
cityscape set to a playful and addictive raga – a complex
soundtrack that dances to the beat of its own
desi
drum.
Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .723
Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731
Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 731
Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .732
Festivals & Events . . . . .734
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . . . .736
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 741
Drinking . . . . . . . . . . . . .745
Entertainment . . . . . . . . 747
Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . .748
Greater Mumbai . . . . . .756
Best Places to Eat
»
Khyber (p 741 )
»
Peshawri (p 745 )
»
Five Spice (p 742 )
»
Trishna (p 743 )
»
Culture Curry (p 745 )
When to Go
Mumbai (Bombay)
°C/°F
Temp
Rainfall
inch
es
/mm
40/104
32/800
Best Places to
Stay
»
Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai
(p 736 )
»
Iskcon (p 740 )
»
YWCA (p 737 )
»
Hotel Moti (p 737 )
»
Residency Hotel (p 738 )
24/600
20/68
16/400
0/32
8/200
-20/-4
0
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Apr–May
Some
like it hot…some
like it
hot.
Aug–Sep
Mumbai
goes Ganesh
crazy during its
biggest and most
exciting festival,
Ganesh Chaturthi.
Oct–Feb
Put
away the scuba
gear as the
monsoons retreat
for Mumbai’s
‘cool’ season.
MAIN POINTS
OF ENTRY
Most travellers arrive at
Mumbai’s Chhatrapati
Shivaji International
Airport, Mumbai Cen-
tral train station (BCT)
or Chhatrapati Shivaji
Terminus (CST; Victoria
Terminus).
A Mouthful of Mumbai
Mumbai is a city shaped by avours from all over India and
the world. Throw yourself into the culinary kaleidoscope by
sampling Parsi
dhansak
(meat with curried lentils and rice),
Gujarati or Keralan thalis (‘all-you-can-eat’ meals), Mughlai
kebabs, Goan vindaloo and Mangalorean seafood. And
don’t forget, if you see Bombay duck on a menu, it’s actually
bombil
sh dried in the sun and deep-fried.
Streetwise, don’t miss Mumbai’s famous beach
bhelpuri,
readily available at Girgaum Chowpatty, a avour summer-
sault of crisp-fried thin rounds of dough mixed with pu ed
rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs, chilli and tamarind
chutney piled high on takeaway plates. Other street stalls
o ering rice plates, samosas,
pav bhaji
(spiced vegetables
and bread) and
vada pav
(deep-fried spiced lentil-ball sand-
wich) do a brisk trade around the city.
Fast Facts
»
Population: 16.4 million
»
Area: 444 sq km
»
Area code:
%
022
»
Languages: Marathi,
Hindi, Gujarati, English
»
Sleeping prices:
$
below
₹1000,
$$
₹1000 to ₹4000,
$$$
above ₹4000
DON’T MISS
For many, a visit to cosmopolitan Mumbai is all about
dining, nightlife and shopping, but the city o ers far
more than nocturnal amusement and retail therapy.
Nowhere is that more evident than in the spectacular
maze of Gothic, Victorian, Indo-Saracenic and art deco
architecture, remnants of the British colonial era and
countless years of European in uence.
Chhatrapati
Shivaji Terminus
(Victoria Terminus)
,
High Court
,
University of Mumbai
,
Taj Mahal Palace hotel
and
the
Gateway of India
are just the most prominent –
little architectural jewels dot the urban quagmire
throughout the metropolis and stumbling upon them is
one of Mumbai’s great joys.
Top Tips
Many international ights
arrive after midnight. Save
yourself some moon-lit
hassle by carrying detailed
landmark directions for your
hotel – many airport taxi
drivers don’t speak English
and can dwindle precious
sleep time hunting it down.
Eicher City Map Mumbai
(₹250) is an excellent street
atlas, worth picking up if
you’ll be spending some
time here.
Top Mumbai Festivals
»
Mumbai Festival (Jan, citywide, p734) A showcase of
Mumbai music, dance and culture
»
Elephanta Festival (Feb, Elephanta Island, p734) Classical
music and dance on Elephanta Island
»
Kala Ghoda Festival (Feb, citywide, p734) Two weeks of art
performances and exhibitions
»
Nariyal Poornima (Aug, Colaba, p734) Commemorates
the beginning of fishing season
»
Ganesh Chaturthi (Aug/Sep, citywide, p734) Mumbai’s
biggest event celebrates all things Ganesh
Resources
»
Maharashtra Tourism
Development Corporation
( www.maharashtratourism
.gov.in) is the official
tourism site.
Mumbai
Highlights
1
Marvel at the
magni cence of
Mumbai’s colonial-
era architecture:
Chhatrapati Shivaji
Terminus
(p 726 ),
University of
Mumbai
(p 726 ) and
High Court
(p 727 )
2
Ogle the
Renaissance-
revival interiors of
the
Dr Bhau Daji
Lad Mumbai City
Museum
(p 727 )
3
Dine like a
Maharaja at one
of India’s best
restaurants
(p 741 )
4
Behold the
commanding triple-
headed Shiva at
Elephanta Island
(p 756 )
5
Get lost amid the
clutter in Mumbai’s
ancient
bazaars
(p 748 )
6
Sleep in one of
the world’s iconic
hotels, the
Taj Mahal
Palace, Mumbai
(p 736 )
7
Pay serene
respects to an
astonishing feat of
spiritually fuelled
engineering at the
Global Pagoda
(p 731 )
721
0
5 km
0
3 miles
Esselworld
Gorai
& Water
Ferry
Kingdom
Sanjay Gandhi
National Park
Borivali
Global Pagoda
Kandivali
Kanheri
Gorai
Caves
Island
Malad
Marve
Jetty
Tulsi
To Nasik
Lake
(160km)
Goregaon
Aarey
Vihar
Milk
Lake
Colony
Jogeshwari
Powai
Lake
Andheri
Juhu
Domestic
Thane
Terminal
Creek
International
A R A B I A N
Vile
Terminal
Parle
S E A
Santa
Cruz
Lokmanya
Tilak (Kurla)
Khar
To Pune
Khar Rd
(140km)
Kurla
Bandra
Dharavi
Mahim
Chembur
To Karjat
(81km)
See Central Suburbs
Map (p742)
Matunga Rd
Train Station
Thane Creek
Wadala
Dadar
Sewri
Worli
Lower Parel
See Mumbai Map (p724)
Mumbai Central
Dr Bhau Daji Lad
Butcher
Island
Train Station
Mumbai City
Museum
Elephanta
Island
Chhatrapati
Shivaji Terminus
Churchgate
(Victoria Terminus)
Train Station
Fort
See Fort Area &
High Court
Churchgate Map (p730)
University of Mumbai
Gateway
Mumbai
Taj Mahal Palace
of India
Harbour
Colaba
See Colaba
To Mandwa
Uran
Map (p728)
(20km)
History
In 1996 the city of Bombay o cially be-
came Mumbai. The original Marathi name
is derived from the goddess Mumba, who
was worshipped by the early Koli residents
whose sherfolk have inhabited the seven
islands that form Mumbai since the 2nd
century BC. Amazingly, remnants of this cul-
ture remain huddled along the city shoreline
today. A succession of Hindu dynasties held
sway over the islands from the 6th century
AD until the Muslim Sultans of Gujarat an-
nexed the area in the 14th century, eventu-
ally ceding it to Portugal in 1534. The only
memorable contribution the Portuguese
made to the area was christening it Bom
Bahai, before throwing the islands in with
the dowry of Catherine of Braganza when
she married England’s Charles II in 1661.
The British government took possession of
the islands in 1665, but leased them three
years later to the East India Company for the
paltry annual rent of UK£10.
Then called Bombay, the area ourished
as a trading port. So much so that within 20
years the presidency of the East India Com-
pany was transferred to Bombay from Surat.
Bombay’s fort was completed in the 1720s,
and a century later ambitious land reclama-
tion projects joined the islands into today’s
single landmass. Although Bombay grew
steadily during the 18th century, it remained
isolated from its hinterland until the British
defeated the Marathas (the central Indian
people who controlled much of India at vari-
ous times) and annexed substantial portions
of western India in 1818.
The fort walls were dismantled in 1864
and massive building works transformed
the city in grand colonial style. When Bom-
bay became the principal supplier of cotton
to Britain during the American Civil War,
the population soared and trade boomed as
money ooded into the city.
A major player in the Independence
movement, Bombay hosted the rst Indian
National Congress in 1885, and the Quit In-
dia campaign was launched here in 1942 by
frequent visitor Mahatma Gandhi. The city
became capital of the Bombay presidency af-
ter Independence, but in 1960 Maharashtra
and Gujarat were divided along linguistic
lines – and Bombay became the capital of
Maharashtra.
The rise of the pro-Maratha regionalist
movement, spearheaded by the Shiv Sena
722
MUMBAI IN...
Two Days
Start at the grandaddy of Mumbai’s colonial-era giants, the old Victoria Terminus,
Chha-
trapati Shivaji Terminus
(CST; p726) and stroll up to
Crawford Market
(p 748 ) and
the maze of bazaars here. Lunch at
Rajdhani
(p744), with a juice shake from
Badshah
Snacks & Drinks
(p 744 ).
Spend the afternoon admiring Mumbai’s marvellous architecture at the
High Court
(p 727 ) and the
University of Mumbai
(p726). Walk down to the
Gateway of India
(p 723 ) and
Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai
(p723). After sunset, eat streetside at
Bademiya
(p741). Swap tall tales with fellow travellers at
Leopold’s Café
(p 746 ).
The next day, visit the ornate
Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum
(p 727 ), then
head to Kemp’s Corner for lunch at
Café Moshe
(p743) and some shopping. Make your
way down to
Mani Bhavan
(p727), the museum dedicated to Gandhi, and nish the day
wandering the tiny lanes of
Kotachiwadi
(p739) followed by a beach sunset and a plate
of
bhelpuri
at
Girguam Chowpatty
(p727). A blowout dinner at
Khyber
(p741) won’t let
you forget Mumbai soon.
Four Days
Head out to the
Global Pagoda
(p731) and return in the afternoon to visit the museums
and galleries of
Kala Ghoda
(p723). In the evening, head to Bandra for a candle-lit dinner
at
Sheesha
(p745), followed by some seriously hip bar action with a view at
Aer
(p746)
in Worli.
Another day could be spent visiting the
Dhobi Ghat
(p729) and the nearby
Ma-
halaxmi Temple
(p 730 ) and
Haji Ali’s Mosque
(p729). Lunch at
Olive Bar & Kitchen
(p747) at Mahalaxmi Racecourse and then rest up for a night of avant-garde clubbing at
Bluefrog
(p 747 ) in Worli.
(Hindu Party; literally ‘Shivaji’s Army’),
shattered the city’s multicultural mould by
actively discriminating against Muslims and
non-Maharashtrians. The Shiv Sena won
power in the city’s municipal elections in
1985. Communalist tensions increased and
the city’s cosmopolitan self-image took a
battering when nearly 800 people died in
riots following the destruction of the Babri
Masjid in Ayodhya in December 1992.
The riots were followed by a dozen bomb-
ings on 12 March 1993, which killed more
than 300 people and damaged the Bombay
Stock Exchange and Air India Building. The
July 2006 train bombings, which killed more
than 200 people, and November 2008’s coor-
dinated attacks on 10 of the city’s landmarks,
which lasted three days and killed 173 peo-
ple, are reminders that tensions are never
far from the surface.
India’s ‘26/11’ – as the Mumbai attacks have
come to be known – was a wake-up call for
the city. Security is now intense at many of the
city’s prominent landmarks, well-known ho-
tels and important nancial and government
buildings. Entire streets have been sealed o
in some cases, providing impromptu cricket
pitches for the city’s numerous street youth.
But Mumbai soldiers on, content to up the
ante of inconvenience to maintain the Mum-
baikar spirit, a de ant Marathi manner that
steadies the city as India’s commercial hub
and a global nancial powerhouse.
1
Sights
Mumbai, the capital of Maharashtra, is an
island connected by bridges to the main-
land. The city’s (o -limits) naval docks
dominate the island’s eastern seaboard. The
city’s commercial and cultural centre is at
the southern, claw-shaped end of the island
known as South Mumbai. The southernmost
peninsula is Colaba, traditionally the travel-
lers’ nerve centre, with most of the major at-
tractions, and directly north of Colaba is the
busy commercial area known as Fort, where
the old British fort once stood. It’s bordered
on the west by a series of interconnected,
fenced grassy areas known as maidans (pro-
nounced may-
dahns
).
Though just as essential a part of the city
as South Mumbai, the area north of here
is collectively known as ‘the suburbs’. The
airport and many of Mumbai’s best restau-
rants, shopping and nightspots are here,
particularly in the upmarket suburbs of
Bandra and Juhu.
The opening of the cable-stayed Bandra-
Worli Sea Link in 2009 cut travel time be-
tween the two areas from one hour to seven
minutes, making these upmarket suburbs
easily accessible to travellers.
723
COLABA
For mapped locations of all the following
sights, see Map p728.
Sprawling down the city’s southernmost
peninsula, Colaba is a bustling district
packed with street stalls, markets, bars
and budget to midrange lodgings.
Colaba
Causeway
(Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg) dis-
sects the promontory and Colaba’s jumble of
side streets and gently crumbling mansions.
Sassoon Dock
(o Map p728) is a scene
of intense and pungent activity at dawn
(around 5am) when colourfully clad
Koli
sherfolk
sort the catch unloaded from
shing boats at the quay. The sh drying in
the sun are
bombil,
the sh used in the dish
Bombay duck. Photography at the dock is
forbidden.
o
Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai
LANDMARK
This iconic hotel (p736) is a fairy-tale blend
of Islamic and Renaissance styles jostling
for prime position among Mumbai’s famous
landmarks. Facing the harbour, it was built
in 1903 by the Parsi industrialist JN Tata,
supposedly after he was refused entry to one
of the European hotels on account of being
‘a native’.
Gateway of India
MONUMENT
This bold basalt arch of colonial triumph
faces out to Mumbai Harbour from the tip
of Apollo Bunder. Derived from the Islamic
styles of 16th-century Gujarat, it was built
to commemorate the 1911 royal visit of King
George V. It was completed in 1924. Ironi-
cally, the gateway’s British architects used
it just 24 years later to parade o their last
British regiment as India marched towards
Independence.
These days, the gateway is a favourite
gathering spot for locals and a top spot for
people-watching. Giant-balloon sellers, pho-
tographers, beggars and touts rub shoulders
with Indian and foreign tourists, creating all
the hubbub of a bazaar. Boats depart from
the gateway’s wharfs for Elephanta Island
and Mandwa.
KALA GHODA
‘Black Horse’, the area between Colaba and
Fort, contains most of Mumbai’s main gal-
leries and museums alongside a wealth of
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