Safire-v2.pdf

(772 KB) Pobierz
safire.ppt
SAFIRE
by Hilary Smith Callis
http:/ /theyarniad.blogspot.com
Sizes
Women’s XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL)
Finished bust measurements: 28” (32”, 36”,
40”, 44”, 48”, 52”, 56”)
The sweater is show in size S with about
of negative ease (1” neg ease in ribbing).
Abbreviations
2x2 rib [k2, p2], repeat
CO cast on
dpns double pointed needles
k knit
k tbl knit through back of loop
k2tog knit 2 stitches together
m1L/m1R make 1 right/left leaning st - see
http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/increases
p purl
p2tog purl 2 stitches together
pm place stitch marker
RS right side
sm slip stitch marker
ssk sl 2 sts as if to k, then k tog
through back of loops
St st stockinette stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
w&t wrap and turn - see
http://www.purlbee.com/short-row-tutorial/
WS
Gauge
21 stitches x 26 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch
Materials
1 (1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) skeins of Tess’ Designer
Yarns Superwash Merino: 490 (560, 630, 700,
770, 840, 910, 980) yards / 448 (512, 576,
640, 704, 768, 832, 896) meters
US 6 (4mm) and US 7 (4.5mm) circular
needles, at least 32” long and same size of
needles preferred for working sleeves in the
round
5 1-cm diameter buttons
Coordinating thread and sewing needle
4 stitch markers
Scrap yarn
Tapestry Needle (for weaving ends)
wrong side
yo
yarn over
1
©2009 Hilary Smith Callis, http://theyarniad.blogspot.com. For personal, non-commercial use only.
447503406.009.png 447503406.010.png 447503406.011.png
Pattern
Safire is constructed from the top down, all in one piece, with a raglan yoke.
With US 7 (4.5mm) needles, CO 50 (60, 76, 94, 114, 134, 148, 158) sts.
Purl 1 row, placing stitch markers at the following points:
- After 2 (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts to mark the right front,
- after another 8 (10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 26, 26) sts to mark the right sleeve,
- after another 30 (36, 44, 50, 58, 66, 72, 78) sts to mark the back,
- and after another 8 (10, 12, 16, 20, 24, 26, 26) sts to mark the left sleeve.
The remaining 2 (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14) sts are the left front.
Raglan increase row (RS): [K to 1 st before marker, m1L, k1, sm, k1, m1R] 4 times; k to end.
Total sts: 58 (68, 84, 102, 122, 142, 156, 166). (8 sts increased)
P 1 row.
Repeat the last 2 rows 21 (23, 24, 26, 27, 29, 31, 33) times more. But please read the
below first!! You will need to follow two sets of shaping instructions at the same
time.
For all sizes, the following increase row will be worked at the front edges of the
cardigan on the RS in order to shape the fronts to close just below the bust:
K1, m1L, work (including raglan increases if necessary) to last st of row , m1R, k1.
However, the increasing will begin at different points depending on size:
•For sizes L-4XL, begin the front increases on raglan increase number - (-, -,
27, 27, 28, 30, 31) and repeat on every RS row - (-, -, 20, 22, 24, 25, 26)
times more.
•For sizes XS-M, begin the front increases on row 3 (1, 1, -, -, -, -, -) after the
raglan increases are complete and repeat on every RS row 14 (17, 19, -, -, -,
-, -) times more.
Total sts after raglan shaping is complete (including sts increased on fronts): 226 (252, 276,
312, 342, 380, 410, 438)
2
©2009 Hilary Smith Callis, http://theyarniad.blogspot.com. For personal, non-commercial use only.
447503406.012.png 447503406.001.png
Body
On the next RS row (and either starting or continuing the front increases depending on the
size being made), and removing st markers as you come to them, k to first marker,
place the 52 (58, 62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 94) sts between the markers on scrap yarn, pm, k
to next st marker, place the next 52 (58, 62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 94) sts between the
markers on scrap yarn, pm, and k to end.
You should have 24 (27, 30, 35, 39, 44, 48, 53) sts for each front and 74 (84, 94, 104, 114,
126, 136, 146) sts for each back, for a total of 122 (138, 154, 174, 192, 214, 232, 252)
sts on the needles.
Continue in St st until front increases (worked each RS row) have been completed. P 1 row.
Total body sts: 152 (172, 192, 212, 232, 256, 276, 296) [39 (44, 49, 54, 59, 65, 70, 75) for
each front and 74 (84, 94, 104, 114, 126, 136, 146) for the back].
Switch to US 6 (4mm) needles.
Next row (RS): Starting with k2, work in 2x2 rib until the last 2 sts and create a buttonhole
thusly: yo, p2tog.
Next row (WS): K1, k1 tbl, continue in 2x2 rib.
You will create a buttonhole in this manner every 4 rows (making sure to knit the yo tbl on
the row following the buttonhole) for the entire ribbed portion of the sweater.
3
©2009 Hilary Smith Callis, http://theyarniad.blogspot.com. For personal, non-commercial use only.
447503406.002.png 447503406.003.png 447503406.004.png
Ribbing and Decreases
In the next section, you will make decreases on either side of the sweater (i.e. where the
stitch markers are, marking where the fronts meet the back), then decrease again every 4
rows 3 times for all sizes. Because each size has a different stitch count based on finished
size, the stitch markers fall different places in the 2x2 ribbing pattern, thus require
different types of decreasing. Details of each “type” are below, as well as instructions on
which to use for each size. While working the 3 rows in between the decrease rows, knit
the knit sts and purl the purl sts as you come to them, even if the 2x2 rib pattern has been
broken by the decreases.
Type 1 - stitch marker is between 2 purl sts
Decrease Row 1: Work to 3 sts before stitch marker, ssk, p1, sm, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 2: Work to 4 sts before marker, p2tog, k1, p1, sm, p1, k1, p2tog
Decrease Row 3: Work to 5 sts before marker, ssk, p1, k1, p1, sm, p1, k1, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 4: Work to 4 sts before marker, ssk, k1, p1, sm, p1, k1, k2tog
Type 2 - stitch marker is between 2 knit sts
Decrease Row 1: Work to 4 sts before marker, ssk, p1, k1, sm, k1, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 2: Work to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog
Decrease Row 3: Work to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sm, k1, k2tog
Decrease Row 4: Work to 2 sts before marker, ssk, sm, k2tog
Type 3 - stitch marker is between a knit st and a purl st
Decrease Row 1: Work to 6 sts before marker, ssk, p2, k2, sm, p2, k2, p2tog
Decrease Row 2: Work to 5 sts before marker, ssk, p1, k2, sm, p2, k2, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 3: Work to 4 sts before marker, ssk, k2, sm, p2, k2, k2tog
Decrease Row 4: Work to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, sm, p2, k1, k2tog
Type 4 - stitch marker is between a purl st and a knit st
Decrease Row 1: Work to 6 sts before marker, p2tog, k2, p2, sm, k2, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 2: Work to 7 sts before marker, ssk, p1, k2, p2, sm, k2, p1, k2tog
Decrease Row 3: Work to 6 sts before marker, ssk, k2, p2, sm, k2, k2tog
Decrease Row 4: Work to 5 sts before marker, ssk, k1, p2, sm, k1, k2tog
Decrease row (RS): Work in 2x2 rib, work decrease type 1 (4, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 1), continue in
2x2 rib as set across the back, work decrease type 2 (4, 1, 3, 2, 1, 3, 2), then continue in
2x2 rib as set to end. (Remember to create a buttonhole every 4 rows). 4 sts decreased.
Work 3 rows as set.
Repeat the last 4 rows 3 times more, then continue in 2x2 rib until ribbing measures 3.75”
or desired length, ending with a WS row.
Total sts: 136 (156, 176, 196, 216, 240, 260, 280)
Bind off all sts in 2x2 rib.
4
©2009 Hilary Smith Callis, http://theyarniad.blogspot.com. For personal, non-commercial use only.
447503406.005.png 447503406.006.png
Sleeves (make 2)
Place 52 (58, 62, 70, 76, 84, 90, 94) sts on hold for sleeve onto US 7 (4.5mm) circular needle
or dpns.
Work across all sts and pick up 2 sts from the body at the very end. Pm to mark beginning of
round. Total sts: 54 (60, 64, 72, 78, 86, 92, 96)
Dec round: K2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1 (2 sts decreased).
K 4 (5, 5, 5, 4, 4, 5, 5) rounds.
Repeat the last 5 (6, 6, 6, 5, 5, 6, 6) rounds 6 (5, 5, 5, 6, 6, 5, 5) times more. Total sts: 40
(48, 52, 60, 64, 72, 80, 84)
Work even (if needed) until sleeve measures 4.75 (5, 5, 5.25, 5.25, 5.25, 5.25, 5.5)” from
armsceye.
Switch to US 6 (4mm) needles and work in 2x2 rib until sleeve measures 9.5 (10, 10, 10.5,
10.5, 10.5, 10.5, 11)”. Bind off all sts.
Collar
Starting at the right front edge, just above where the ribbing starts, with US 6 (4mm)
needles, pick up sts all the way around to the same point on the left side (I picked up
about 4 sts per 5 rows). The exact number of sts is not terribly important, but should
be a multiple of 4 PLUS 2. Estimates: 174 (198, 222, 246, 274, 302, 326, 342) sts.
Row 1 (WS): Starting with p2 (so on the RS you will have 2 knit sts at the beginning and end
of the collar), work in 2x2 rib until 10 sts before the end of the row, w&t.
Row 2 (RS): Work until 10 sts before end of row, w&t.
Next row: Work until 10 sts before last wrapped st, w&t.
Repeat the last row 7 (7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 9) times more. You should end with a RS row.
(WS) After having wrapped and turned for the last time, work all the way to the end of the
row, picking up wraps as you come to them.
(RS) Work 1 row, picking up remaining wraps as you come to them.
Bind off all sts in 2x2 rib.
5
©2009 Hilary Smith Callis, http://theyarniad.blogspot.com. For personal, non-commercial use only.
447503406.007.png 447503406.008.png
Zgłoś jeśli naruszono regulamin