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GDAŃSK
Including
SOPOT & GDYNIA
May - July 2011
The Tri-city’s
youngest
member
How Versailles changed
Gdynia forever
Tri-city and
beyond
The Castles and
Copernicus at Malbork
and Frombork
N°34 - 5zł
(w tym 8% VAT)
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1640-3592
CONTENTS
3
Full contents of all our
Poland guides online!
poland.inyourpocket.com
Contents
Arrival & Transport
10
The Basics
16
Gdańsk History
19
Tri-city Culture & Events
20
Gdańsk Where to stay
28
Gdańsk Restaurants
38
Gdańsk Cafés
52
Gdynia today is a bustling modern port city but less than
100 years ago that this was little more than a provincial
fishing village. That was until the Treaty of Versailles gave
the re-born Polish state access to the sea here. We look
at the development of Poland’s gateway to the world on
page 6. Photo © Sławomir Kitowski.
Gdańsk Nightlife
54
Gdańsk What to See
62
Gdańsk Oliwa
72
Gdańsk Wrzeszcz
Sopot
Sopot History
74
86
World War II
76
Sopot Where to Stay
87
Stutthof
Sopot Restaurants
90
80
Sopot Cafes
94
Solidarity
82
Sopot Nightlife
100
Sopot What to See
106
Sopot Spa
108
Gdynia
Gdynia History
110
Gdynia Where to Stay
110
Gdynia Restaurants
113
Gdynia Cafes
115
Gdynia Nightlife
120
Gdynia What to See
123
Leisure
126
Shopping
134
Directory
142
Frombork
144
A visit to this region not only gives you three cities for the
price of one, it also offers some great day trips. Malbork
is home to a castle which every child should get to see at
least once, while Frombork is where a man called Mikolaj
Kopernik discovered that the Earth is not at the centre of
the Universe. Read more about the man better known as
Copernicus and visit his home on page 144.
Kashubia
146
Malbork
149
Maps & Index
153-162
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
May - July 2011
FOREWORD
4
Over the years there have been a fair number of
comments about the name of the tome you are looking
at. For while the title is Gdansk In Your Pocket, it has
rightly been pointed out that we cover a lot more than
just Gdansk. Some have suggested we call it Tri-city (or
Trojmiasto in Polish) In Your Pocket as we cover all three
members of this conglomeration in depth. Then there is
why are we not called Gdynia In Your Pocket (including
Sopot and Gdansk) a question that has been posed by a
number of people, including one or two Gdynian staffers
over the years. The truth of it is that the magazine was
named by one of the founders of the In Your Pocket series
many years ago when he, rightly or wrongly, declared that
Gdansk is and will always be the region’s calling card not
least because of the fact that two of the defining events
of the 20th century started here – World War II and the
Solidarity movement. So because of that (and the fact that
he was the boss) Gdansk In Your Pocket, with Sopot and
Gdynia, was born.
Do not think dear reader, however, that our focus is
centred on the biggest of the three cities. Oh no. The
attraction of living in this part of the world is the choice
and variation that the different cities offer, not to mention
the attractions of the surrounding area. And in this issue,
with the weather smiling once more, we let you know
about the best of these options with info on Malbork and
its incredible castle and Frombork, the place where a
Polish man discovered that the earth was orbiting the sun
and not vice versa.
And we also go north to explain the story of the youngest
member of Trojmiasto – Gdynia. So insignificant not
much more than a century ago that we couldn’t find
it marked on a map of West Prussia, the story of this
remarkable place born out of the Treaty of Versailles and
built by the hands and the will of a re-born Polish nation,
is one that we found amazing and one we try to relate to
you on page 6.
So whichever of the three cities you are reading this in,
do make the effort to visit the other two and enjoy what
each has to offer. As always all comments, criticisms
and compliments are gladly received at editor_poland@
inyourpocket.com.
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Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o.o.
1999-2011. Maps copyright cartographer.
All rights reserved. No part of this
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Editor’s note
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e rhythm of life
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Gdańsk
In Your Pocket
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
GDYNIA - THE TRI-CITY‘S YOUNGEST MEMBER
6
80 years later, as the West Prussian village of Gdingen,
it had developed slightly, with a recorded population of
around 1200, some restaurants and accommodation for
holidaymakers. But it was as part of the new Poland that a
plan was put in train in 1920 to transform it utterly, a plan
which was accelerated by the passing in the Polish parliament
(Sejm) of the
Gdynia Seaport Construction Act
in 1923.
The new port to be carved out of the Baltic coast was to
be located in this former fishing village: the Hel Peninsula
provided protection from strong winds, the sea in the area
was deep and usually free of ice in winter, and an existing
railway was just 2 kilometres distant. Under chief port designer
Tadeusz Wenda, building of the port began in 1921, but financial
problems caused delays and, in 1922, the Polish Parliament
decided to light a fire under proceedings. By 1923, Gdynia had a
small harbour, a 550-meter long pier and a wooden breakwater,
and the port was visited by its first major ocean-going vessel and
its first foreign ship, the French
Kentucky
.
THINK GDYNIA...
THINK UNIQUE MODERN MEETING PLACE...
CHOOSE GEMINI!
Gdynia 1925. Skwer Kosciuszki and the Southern Pier.
© Sławomir Kitowski
Poland as a defined nation had existed in various shapes and
sizes from the year 966, its composition being altered over
the centuries by wars and alliances before the Prussians,
Russians and Austrians succeeded in removing it entirely from
the map in 1795 with the 3rd partition. The doughty Poles were
not to be defeated, and continued to fight for their own colour
on the globe, succeeding finally in regaining independence in
1918 at the end of World War I when the state was recreated
at the Treaty of Versailles. The new nation required access
to the sea and, having failed to convince the powers to place
the important city and port of Gdansk/Danzig under Polish
control, the final borders of this new nation instead included
a narrow strip of land for Poland along the Baltic Sea coast.
In late 1924, the Polish government engaged a French-Polish
consortium to build a harbour with a depth of seven meters,
and by the following year Gdynia had gained further piers,
a railway and cargo-handling equipment. However, work
continued at quite a slow pace until 1926 when Polish exports
increased during a German-Polish trade war and as a result
of a British miners’ strike. By late 1930, docks and industrial
facilities had been built, and the port was finally connected to
the Upper Silesian industrial and coal-producing centres by the
newly constructed Polish Coal Trunk Line railway. Poland’s first
passenger shipping line, from Gdynia to New York, also started
up and over subsequent years famous ships like the
MS Batory
and
MS Chrobry
were to li n k G d ynia wi th tra nsatlan ti c l o cati ons.
The basic plan for port construction was ingenious, consisting of
digging out large amounts of land from the coast inland to create
a large section of the port, then dumping the spoil from this first
stage into the sea at nearby locations. In this way, effectively twice
as m u c h por t area was create d. I n a tre m e n d ous e n gi n e eri n g feat
huge concrete blocks were built on the shore and toppled into
the water in order to support the new quays and breakwaters.
Come in to the most popular meeting place in Gdynia and make a choice of how you
want to spend your time. Here you can socialize, meet people while feeling comfortable
and safe. You can choose out from our differentiated cuisine and entertainment offer:
Located between the newly created Free City of Danzig (Gdańsk)
and the German province of East Prussia to the east, and West
Prussia to the west, this strip of coastline was reached by what
was infamously to become known as the “Polish Corridor”, an
avenue of land connecting the bulk of the country with the sea.
The biggest port in this part of the Baltic coast at the time was
Danzig, a city with a 900 year history. However many citizens
there, as well as the German government who continued to
exercise huge influence over the decision making of the Free
City rulers, were unsympathetic to the needs of the new Polish
state. This was clearly demonstrated when the port of Danzig
refused to unload French armaments for Polish forces engaged
in the 1920 Polish-Soviet War.
The Polish Government were therefore determined to build
a new seaport at the top of the ‘corridor’ and the place
they settled on was the small fishing village, of Gdynia. The
development of Gdynia into a major port was seen as critical
for the economic independence of the new country and the
story of this development was to reflect, not just one of the
most incredible building projects of all time, but also the
determination of a nation and its people to survive and to
flourish in a new era of European history.
The development of Gdynia
Although Gdynia had first appeared in records in 1253
as a small Kashubian fishing village by 1789 it had only
increased in size to a settlement of a mere 20 houses. About
Building of the port 1926 - 1927. © Sławomir Kitowski
While the port was being constructed, so too was the city. City
rights were granted in 1926, at which time Gdynia had around
6,000 inhabitants and the city started to expand quickly with
the Polish government alone bringing about 50,000 citizens
to the city. By 1939 the population had risen to over 120,000.
While the port was built by the state, essentially the city
was built by private investors. Small single-storey buildings
were initially constructed, then these were demolished by
the owners to make way for multi-storey buildings as the
city grew and the inhabitants became more prosperous.
The project attracted all parts of Polish society to the coast
with engineers, construction workers and administrators all
relocating from other Polish cities, in particular Warsaw, to
take part in this vital national project.
The construction of the basic harbour was completed in
1935 and by 1938 the former fishing village had become the
biggest and most modern port and shipyard on the Baltic
with almost half of Poland’s trade passing through it. Yet,
disaster was soon to follow.
ul. Świętojańska and St. Mary’s church 1928.
© Sławomir Kitowski
Centrum Gemini, Gdynia, ul. Waszyngtona 21, Tel. 58 6281717, Fax 58 6281890
www.geminicentrum.pl
Gdańsk
In Your Pocket
gdansk.inyourpocket.com
GDYNIA - THE TRI-CITY‘S YOUNGEST MEMBER
8
The war years
In 1939, at the start of war, German troops occupied
Gdynia, the city was renamed Gotenhafen and (O-1) Skwer
Kosciuszki was renamed Adolf Hitler Platz. The Poles brought
by their government to the city of Gdynia were expelled and
worse, around 12,000, especially the more educated, were
executed. The port was turned into a German naval base
and the city was also used as a sub-camp of the Stutthof
concentration camp near Danzig.
When German troops eventually retreated from Gdynia near
the end of the War, they succeeded in largely destroying the
port, a job then completed by the advancing Red Army, who
bombed the port and city, destroying many buildings and
equipment, and sank several ships trying to escape through
the Baltic Sea: among them the
Wilhelm Gustloff
(see box in
Gdynia section), which had served as a floating barracks for
naval personnel in Gdynia and whose demise, in which more
than nine thousand civilians and personnel died, remains the
largest loss of life in a single incident in maritime history.
Post-war history
Having built this port and city from scratch, the post-war Polish
state renamed it Gdynia and started the process of making the
port once again a major location for importing and exporting.
The shipyard produced a large number of ships, many of them
for the Soviet Union, but is perhaps best known internationally
for the role the shipyard workers played in the formation of
the Solidarity trade union. An earlier event, in 1970, which left
much bitterness, had seen demonstrating Polish shipyard
workers fired on by the police, leaving around 20 people dead.
To this day this is one of the more tragic events of the fight
against the communist authorities and its memory has been
som ewh at overl ooke d by th e eve n ts o f 1980 wh i c h saw G da nsk
recognised as the spiritual home of the anti-communist fight.
This is something which still rankles to this day with the local
population who feel that the major contribution and the price
paid in human life by the people of Gdynia has been forgotten.
BGK bank building on ul. 10-go Lutego 1937-1938.
© Sławomir Kitowski
Do look a little deeper as well, for as much of the development of
Gdynia took place during the heyday of the modernist architecture
movement, there are numerous stylish buildings from that era.
The short walk from the main train station to the sea along (N/O-1)
ul. 10 Lutego and Skwer Kosciuszki will provide the visitor with
several examples of modernist architecture which reflect the city’s
maritime role, including buildings with portholes, quarterdecks
and curved facades to resemble ships.
For example, there is the Polish Ocean Lines building, which
now houses the
To u r i s t I n f o r m a t i o n
o f fi c e on ul. 10 Lu te go
(at the junction with N-1, ul. 3 Maja), the Bank Gospodarstwa
Krajowego residential building around the corner on ul. 3 Maja
or, a personal favourite, at the junction of (N-1) ul. Abrahama
and ul. Starowiejska. Further on towards the sea there are
a former cinema at no. 10-12 Skwer Kosciuszki, and the
Gdynia Aquarium building and the Polish Yachtsman’s House
at numbers 1 and 3 Aleja Jana Pawła II.
If you want to go shopping then ul. Świętojańska is one good
place to go, and you will see this architectural style at, for
example, no. 68 (Empik bookshop) or no. 122. Alternatively,
for something more earthy, the market complex near the train
station also dates from this period. Even today, many of the new
buildings constructed in or near the city centre – such as the
Batory shopping centre (N-1, ul. 10-Lutego 11), pay homage to
this era and the city’s essential raison d’etre, the sea.
What to see
The city centre is considered to be very well planned, with
(N/O-1) ul. 10 Lutego/Skwer Kosciuszki and ul. Starowiejska
forming the primary west-east axis and ul. Swietojanska and
ul. Abrahama the north-south one. For obvious reasons, don’t
expect to find an old town here, though there are still some
buildings from its days as a small resort. As good a place to
start as any is at the City of Gdynia Museum (O-2, ul. Zawiszy
Czarnego 1), which will give you a good grounding in the city’s
story, while the Naval Museum next door, featuring a garden
full of weaponry including a rusting MiG fighter, is also worth
a visit if you have children in tow.
And as you walk around enjoying this city of 250,000 souls,
take a moment to remember that had it not been for the
Treaty of Versailles and the Poles’ determination to show
the world, and in particular their bullying neighbours that
they were worth their salt, this place might be something
quite different altogether today.
Further reading
While the port today is no longer the biggest in the Baltic it
is, along with the neighbouring port of Gdańsk, still of vital
economic importance to Poland. There are a few different
ways to vi ew i t. M ost pi c tu resq u e is to take a wal k up to on e o f
the viewing points either at the top of Kamienna Góra (O-2, ul.
Mickiewicza) or in the Pogórze Górne district (ul. Ksawerego
Czernickiego). This is about 15 minutes bus ride from the
centre. Take bus 194 from outside the Hala Targowa (N-1,
ul. Jana z Kolna) to the last stop to enjoy majestic views over
the entire city and the port. It is also recommended to take
the local commuter train (SKM) to the Gdynia Stocznia stop
to see the poignant memorial to workers murdered during
the 1970 strikes. Finally on the port and Solidarity theme
keep an eye out for another memorial to the victims of 1970
outside the City Hall building (N-2, Al. Pilsudskiego 52/54).
Local photographer and historian,
Slawomir Kitowski, has published
a number of beautiful albums
recording various parts of
Gdynia and her history. For
those interested in seeing more
wonderful photographs of the
development of Gdynia from
fishing village to international port
should keep an eye out for these,
pick of which is
Gdynia Miasto z
Morza i Marzeń (Gdynia – City
of the sea and dreams)
, which can be picked up from
EMPiK on ul. Swietojanska 68.
TOMO
ul. Morska 9, 81-764 Sopot
Reservation: tel. +48 510 09 17 01
+48 58 550 50 11
www.tomo.pl
Gdańsk
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