Braszów.pdf

restaurants & CaFes

PuBs, Bars & CluBs

Fast food

Mado B-5, Str. Republicii 10, tel. (+4) 0268 47 53 85, contact@mado.ro,

www.mado.ro. Try delicious, sticky Turkish ice-cream downstairs, or head up to

the long restaurant (with good views of shoppers) for snacks. The menus are good

value and usually include a salad. There’s a terrace on Republicii in summer, as well

as another on Piata Sfatului. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00.

McDonald’s B-5, Str. Republicii 57-59, tel./fax (+4) 0268 410 544, www.

mcdonalds.ro. Brasov’s only restaurants with security guards, protecting your

American Dream Meal from unwanted Romanian interruptions. And it all tastes just

like it does at home. Clean, free toilets out back bring in the tourists, while the one

leu ice cream doesn’t hurt either! Q Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00-24:00.

best. The food is in fact brilliantly simple, making use of local, fresh ingredients

but doing so with real aplomb. Try the supa de cartofi (potato soup): you will not

taste any as good anywhere else in Transylvania. Great shaded terrace in sum-

mer, though the interior is worthy of a peek too. Find it at the rear of the Cerbul

Carpatin building. Q Open 09:00-24:00. PAVBSW

Classic Inn A-6, Str. Tibles 7-9, tel. (+4) 0372 77 78 89/(+4) 0268 51 22

44, receptie@classic-inn.ro, www.classic-inn.ro. A classic (what else would

you expect) restaurant of the new school offering fine food and fine service in a

brilliant setting above Schei. The tables by the big windows have superb vistas. Very

popular as a wedding venue, on Saturdays in the summer it is a good idea to phone

ahead to check if its open at weekends. Q Open 13:00-23:00. PALSW

Festival 39 B-5, Str. Republicii 62, tel. (+4) 0268 47 86 64, (+4) 0743 33

99 09, cafeneauabucuresti@gmail.com. It’s back. Perhaps the most famous

bar ever to open in Brasov is back, now in a new, improved location on Republicii

(it used to be on Strada Muresenilor). What’s more it is bigger and better than ever

and is no more a mere bar: expect the usual mix of cocktails and coffee to now be

accompanied by fine food too (the ciolan de purcelus - piglet knuckle - is terrific).

You could spend all day in here in fact, from breakfast to nightcap. One day soon

we might just try it. Q Open 07:00 - 24:00. PAVBSW

Keller Steak House B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47

22 78, contact@kellersteakhouse.ro, www.kellersteakhouse.ro. Oh yes.

Something a bit different. In amidst of average pizza/pasta joints this genuine

steak house serves big juicy bits of beef, lamb veal and pork cooked as you like

and served with a good choice of grilled veggies. We like the (not cheap - in fact

bloody expensive - but good) surf and turf, while the lamb chops in Dijon mustard

went down very well. Even offers two vegetarian dishes. Commendable. Q Open

09:00-23:00. PAB

Sirul Vãmii B-5, Str. Muresenilor 18, tel. (+4) 0268 47 77 25, rezervari@

sirulvamii.ro, www.sirulvamii.ro. This is actually a restaurant/basement bar

rolled into one. The restaurant serves top quality traditional Romanian and Tran-

sylvanian food (including seafood) with prices that make you know you’re having

a little treat. They do a very good saramura de crap with mamaliga (carp in a

sour sauce with polenta). Q Open 12:00 - 22:00. PABSW

Star Brunch & More C-5, Str. Nicolae Balcescu 62. On the top floor of the

legendary Star department store is this rather nice cafe and restaurant serving

great lemonade, decent coffee, and the best countryside omelette in the city.

In fact, for a late breakfast you can do an awfully lot worse. Roof terrace with

mountain and market views. Q Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun

09:00 - 14:30. PL

Italian

Leonardo Da Vinci B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 4, tel. (+4) 0268 41 55

30, www.pensiuneadavinci.ro. Smart little Italian on Apolonia Hirscher. Inside

it is coquette and rather intimate, while in summer of course most people sit

outside on the obligatory terrace. Good Italian-in-Romania food, the old Rubik’s

cube of spaghetti with this, penne with that. Not bad at all, go eat there. Q Open

09:00 - 24:00. ABSW

Pizza Roma Paste Venezia B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 2, tel. (+4) 0268

47 05 11, office@pizzaroma.ro, www.pizzaroma.ro. Pizza which is just a bit

thinner and just a bit crispier than that served at almost every other pizza joint in

the city. Sit outside if you can get a seat - on the busiest little pedestrian street

in Brasov - and try one of the several thousand flavours of ice cream. Q Open

09:00-24:00. ABS

Prato B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 11, tel. (+4) 0268 47 33 67/(+4) 0720 44

44 22, eat@prato.ro, www.prato.ro. The best restaurant in town? Probably.

Fine Italian food served in superb surroundings on Str. Michael Weiss. The menu

is extensive, and includes plenty of genuine Italian dishes, such as trout with arti-

chokes, or beef in balsamic vinegar. The lunchtime buffet is somewhat irresistible.

There’s a lovely terrace in summer, and prices are not as big as you might think.

Q Open 11:00-24:00 PTAVBXSW

restaurant to open in Brasov. You will find all your Lebanese favourites on the

menu, including excellent hummus: as good as we’ve eaten anywhere in Roma-

nia. The place itself is bright and colourful, and a nice change from some of the

more dowdy and old fashioned restaurants of Old Town. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00.

PALVBXSW

Mexican

Dos Amigos B-5, P-ta Sfatului 5, tel. (+4) 0268 41 45 31/(+4) 0734 31

96 52, dosamigos75@yahoo.com. Those two Mexican friends turn up in Brasov

with their reasonably good Tex Mex wares, and though the food is OK (we had

some great lamb chops) the sombreros hanging from the walls of a 16th century

cellar are possibly just a bit too much. Good Mexican cocktails and in summer you

can avoid the kitsch by sitting outside on Piata Sfatului. Q Open 09:00-24:00.

PAVEBSW

La Bucatarul Vesel B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 33, tel. (+4) 0268 41 88 93,

la_bucatarul_vesel@yahoo.com, www.bucatarulvesel.ro. The name means

Happy Cook , though we aren’t sure the accountant will be too happy given the

stupidly cheap prices for big portions of great home-cooked food. Great deep

fried chicken wings, perfect ceafa de porc , a brilliant ciorba de legume and a

sunny terrace to enjoy it all on. If it rains head inside: the interior is welcoming

and the staff terrific. Value for money like this is rare in Romania. Q Open 11:00-

24:00. PBS

Old Center Bistro C-4, Str. Nicolae Balcescu 67, tel. (+4) 0268 41 91 00/

(+4) 0722 88 83 56, office@oldcenterbistro.ro, www.oldcenterbistro.ro. In

a small cellar near the Star department store (with a terrace/garden in summer,

too), the Old Centre Bistro has a simple menu, colourful atmosphere and unpreten-

tious staff. If you are looking for something a little less fitze than what’s on offer

further towards the city centre it is a good place to start. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00,

Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PALVBXSW

Sergiana

B-4, Str. Muresenilor 27, tel. (+4) 0268 41 97 75/(+4) 0723 29 49

23, www.sergianagrup.ro. If you are looking for traditional Transylvanian

food (as opposed to more general Romanian food) then this is abou t the

best place in the city. A vast cellar packed with a number of different dining

rooms, the food is simple and tasty. Expect loads of stews, sweet ciorbe

and a great ciolan cu fasole . Good selection of local wines too. Q Open

11:00-01:00. PASW

Transilvania C-6, Str. Castelului 106, tel. (+4) 0767 27 50 11. Lovely

Romanian restaurant on the edge of the Old Town, under the Tampa Mountain,

serving the kind of food your mother makes (or would do if she were Romanian).

The place to bring someone you really want to impress with your expert knowledge

of Brasov’s best places to eat, for it is not in any guidebook (except this one, of

course...) Q Open 11:30 - 23:00. PLSW

live music to plays, art exhibitions and parties. It is a mini-cultural centre, one that

comes complete with not just fresh roasted coffee but a sensational selection

of tea too. Well worth a visit. In summer it has a few outside tables too. Q Open

08:00 - 24:00. PABXSW . Also Cafeteca Express B-5, Str. Republicii

26, tel. (+4) 0268 41 04 91, www.cafeteca.net. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00.

PAGBW

Ceai et caetera B-5, Str. Castelului 37, tel. (+4) 0372 74 17 45/(+4) 0732

16 17 29, www.ceaietc.ro. Just like taking tea at your favourite aunt’s house. A

great place to spend your time. Tucked away on Castelului, this tea house/cafe has

tea - as you would imagine - in abundance, as well as all sorts of things to make you

feel at home, such as a book shelf packed with readable tomes, art, gifts, souvenirs

and all sorts. Et caetera, basically. Q Open 17:00 - 23:00. AGSW

Friends Cafe

B-4, Str. Republicii 53-55, tel. (+4) 0725 63 96 99. Cafe in the same court-

yard as Butoiul Sasului and Taverna Sarbului, with a big summer terrace out on

Republicii. Uber-modern decor, all red and cubist, but we like it a lot, as does the

fashionable crowd of locals that throngs here. Serves a lovely green apple juice.

Q Open 08:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PNBXW

Il Caffe

A-5, Str. Gheorghe Baritiu 28, tel. (+4) 0722 43 08 27/(+4) 0728 83 65

56, www.ilcaffe.ro. Small, has no terrace, but It is still nice, as the windows are

so big it almost feels as though you are sitting out on the street. Try the good

coffee, the big range of teas and the huge, bargain-priced fruit salads. Q Open

08:00-23:00. PX

L’Angelys B-5, Str. Gheorghe Baritiu 3, tel. (+4) 0268 47 78 05, langelys.

brasov@gmail.com, www.langelys.ro. Just north of Piata Sfatului is this small

but decent café with a summer terrace, serving ice creams, cakes, chocolates and

the house special: pancakes. And coffee of course. Q Open 10:00-22:00. B

La Republique

B-5, Str. Republicii 33, tel. (+4) 0744 35 16 68. This place sticks to the

old mantra ‘do one thing, and do it very well.’ At La Republique that one thing is

pancakes. There are more varieties than you could care to ever eat, and they are

all cooked fresh. There’s coffee and juice to go with them, and a nice big shady

terrace on which to enjoy it all. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

PLB

La Vatra Ardealului A-5, Str. Gheorghe Baritiu 14, tel. (+4) 0268 47 77

51, fax (+4) 0268 47 42 11. Brilliant coffee and cake shop just north of Piata

Sfatului. Your mouth will water at the sight of such sweet treats, from tasty little

pastries to giant wedding cakes (apparently half the city orders its cakes from

here). We love the colourful flowers placed on the outside tables; a very classy

touch. Q Open 08:00-21:30, Sun 10:30-19:30. G

Arhive B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 12, tel. (+4) 0720 27 44 83, ar-

hive_lounge@me.com, www.arhiveultralounge.ro. If Brasov itself is a great

mix of the old and new, then this magnificent new venue is a microcosm of the

town. Making great use of the space offered by an old Brasov house, sublime

modern touches have turned it into one of the most enjoyable drinkers in the

city. Great decor - this is art without the artsy, and skylights in one room are

a bonus - make it perfect for coffee during the day and cocktails later in the

evening. All in all a very good addition to Brasov’s bar scene. Q Open 08:00 -

04:00. PALBXSW

French

Poarta Schei 4 B-5, Str. Poarta Schei 4, tel. (+4) 0743 23 67 33, (+4)

0268 51 18 38, www.poartaschei4.ro. Wow. French and then some. If you

want rabbit with rhubarb or duck with cherries in Brasov then you best get yourself

here. No fewer than 10 champagnes on the wine list (including La Grande Dame ),

occasional live music and all in gorgeous surroundings. It’s very, very good. Q Open

12:00 - 24:00. PAXSW

International

Ambasador B-5, Str. Republicii 60, tel. (+4) 0722 51 44 50/(+4) 0268 41

49 71, contact@restaurant-ambasador.com, www.restaurant-ambasador.

com. Stylish place on Str. Republicii trying to stand out from the crowd with its

red-liveried tablecloths and classily attired (if rather young) waiters. The menu is

fairly standard, international cuisine, but there is a good wine list and everything

is done with a bit of style. Not a cheap eat though. Big terrace on Republicii. Q

Open 08:00 -24:00. PALBSW

Romanian

Butoiul Sasului B-5/4, Str. Republicii 53-55, tel. (+4) 0268 41 04 99, of-

fice@butoiul-sasului.ro, www.butoiul-sasului.ro. Marvellous cellar restaurant

serving up authentic Saxon cuisine at brilliantly low prices. Live music almost every

night keeps the punters happy, but it is the food you will return for. Go for the pui

la ceaun (deep fried chicken) or the ciolan afumat (smoked pork knuckle, served

with beans) It can be a bit smokey (in fact, it can be very smokey) but that is our

only complaint. For a traditional Romanian experience it is the best choice in the

city. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. PABSW

Casa Muresan A-3/B-2, Str. Nicopole 54, tel. (+4) 0268 41 43 73, office@

casamuresan.ro, www.casamuresan.ro. Fine, fresh and surprisingly inventive

food served with a smile in bright, airy surroundings by the good people at the

Casa Muresan hotel. If you are in Brasov and stuck for ideas it is well worth a try.

The breakfast is open to all comers - not always the case in this town and worthy

of commendation. A wedding and christening favourite. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00.

PALBSW

Casa Padurarului B-6, Aleea Tiberiu Brediceanu 2, tel. (+4) 0268 41 56

19. So well hidden is this place that you get the impression it does not want to be

found. It is behind the Bastionul Tesatorilor, in a leafy setting amongst the trees on

the lower slopes of Mount Tampa. Speciality of the house is game (which means

venison, goose and duck, mainly) and though it is not brilliant the setting alone

makes it a good choice, especially if you want a secret lunch with someone you

shouldn’t be seen with. Q Open 11:00 - 22:00. ALEBS

Ceasu Rau C-4, Str. Iuliu Maniu 56, tel. (+4) 0268 47 66 70, restaurant-

ceasurau@sergiana.ro, www.sergiana.ro. Good Romanian place with a nice

terrace/garden behind gorgeous wooden doors a short walk from the city centre.

Find local classics on the menu, such as ciorba with plenty of cream (they tend

not to sour-up their ciorba around here) and grilled meats. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00.

AEBSW

Gustari B-5, Piata Sfatului 14, tel. (+4) 0268 47 53 65/(+4) 0723 15 99

91, office@restaurant-piatasfatului.ro, www.restaurant-piatasfatului.ro.

Situated on Brasov’s main square, Sirena Gustari - as it is officially called - offers

good cheap Romanian food. The atmosphere inside is cosy and warm: try and

bag a seat by the window for maximum effect, and tuck into one of the specials,

such as the pastrama de oaie (mutton marinated in a home made sauce). Good,

tasty, sweet desserts, and it all costs a fraction of a few other places on the piata

we could mention. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. PVNBS

Hora - Acasa la romani B-5, Str. Grigoras Dinicu 1, tel. (+4) 0723 95 66

44, www.restaurant-traditional.ro. The newest Romanian restaurant in the city.

Expect top food - try the pork knuckle with beans, it’s a winner - and a cracking

atmosphere. You will love the vast selection of traditional Romanian clothes on the

walls, as well as the highly inventive windows with ‘views.’ Q Open , Mon, Tue, Wed

13:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. EXS

Bamboo Str. Molidului 43A, tel. (+4) 0734 22 62 66, office@bamboo-

brasov.ro, www.bamboobrasov.ro. Brasov gets its very own version of the

legendary Bucharest nightspot of the same name. Lounge and club, expect

luxury on all fronts, expensive decor (but very tastefully done), smooth sounds

and a lively crowd of well-dressed locals who enjoying themselves. Has pos-

sibly the best selection of champagne cocktails in the country, and much more

besides. Find it in the Tampa Gardens residential complex. Q Lounge open

18:00 - 24:00, Club open Thu, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. Club entrance fee 10 lei

Fri, 20 lei Sat. PALEBW

restaurants & CaFes

Deane’s Irish Pub & Grill B-5, Str. Republicii 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 45

42, office@deanes.ro, www.deanes.ro. With some kind of event on almost

every night of the week, be it the all-conquering karaoke night (Tuesday) or Haydn

Deane and his Big Band (Friday) swinging out the hits, Deane’s is a one-stop

shop for food, drink and good times. Sensational bangers and mash will have

Brits flocking in, as will terrific jacket potatoes and a decent pint of Guinness.

Reservations essential at weekends if you’ve designs on sitting down. Also

offers live sports on TV, and a darts room. Big terrace in summer. Q Open

10:00-24:00. PAEBKXSW

Serbian

Taverna Sarbului

B-4, Str. Republicii 55, tel. (+4) 0268 41 02 22, fax (+4) 0268 41 02 36,

brasov@tavernasarbului.ro, www.tavernasarbului.ro. The first terrace (beyond

McDonald’s) you hit when approaching Republicii from the south, you can save

yourself a walk by simply stopping and dining here. The food is a decent mix of

local and the Serbian, the meatballs in particular are a good mix of tangy and tasty.

Q Open 09:00-24:00. AVEBS

Bellagio B-5, Str. Michael Weiss 18, tel. (+4) 0268 41 27 95/(+4) 0722

21 79 73, bellagio@bellagio.ro, www.bellagio.ro. It’s been a winner for years

this place. Good Italian food - such as the almost exemplary carpaccio - is made

all the better by the friendly, smiley service from two happy little waitresses. The

vaguely nautically-themed interior betrays the sea-loving owners past career on a

cruise ship. Street terrace too. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. PABXSW

Bella Muzica B-5, Piata Sfatului 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 79 46, restaurant@

bellamuzica.ro, www.bellamuzica.ro. This restaurant began life as a music shop

(still going, upstairs) and has now become a hotel (the most popular in the city

centre). The restaurant is downstairs in the cellar, and is a great place packed with

locals who use it like a dining room. You will not find - as the name suggests - Italian

food, instead Mexican and Hungarian are the unlikely but not unsatisfactory bed

partners on the menu. Q Open 12:00-24:00. PALBXSW

Bistro de l’Arte B-5, P-ta George Enescu 11 bis, tel. (+4) 0722 21 99 80,

www.bistrodelarte.ro. A legend in these parts, Bistro de l’Arte has been going

since 2000, a lifetime in Brasov, and still pulls in the punters. Serving good French

food (the menu changes daily) there is more than grub on offer: the place serves as

something of an arts centre and puts on exhibitions, hosts book launches and even

the occasional concert in the evenings. Good lemonade and free Wifi are bonuses.

No terrace. Q Open 09:00-24:00, Sun 12:00-24:00. PAESW

Casa Hirscher B-5, Piata Sfatului 12-14 (Str. Apollonia Hirscher), tel. (+4)

0268 41 05 33, fax (+4) 0268 41 05 02, rezervari@casahirscher.ro, www.

casahirscher.ro. Exquisite restaurant competing with Prato for title of the city’s

Gott Restaurant & Pub B-5, Str. Johann Gott 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 22

03, fax (+4) 0268 47 22 04, info@hotel-gott.ro, www.hotel-gott.ro. Te r -

rific pub and restaurant, open more than a year now and firmly installed as

one of the city’s default ‘you’re going to get your money’s wor th’ locations.

Besides sampling the more than 300 different types of alcohol on offer

(we have to admit to not tr ying them all, yet) do not forget to go for the

homemade burger. We did, and it was sensational. Q Open 07:00 - 02:00,

Sat, Sun 8:00 - 02:00. PALEBXSW

Cafes

Bakery Bistro Colette B-5, P-ta Sfatului 27, tel. (+4) 0268 41 50 20,

brutarie-colette@orange.fr. By common consent one of the best things to

happen to Brasov for some time. Fresh bread, sandwiches, pastries and coffee

served at the back of a courtyard just off the city’s main square to a growing

crowd of knowing customers. It has been popular since the day it opened and

is the kind of place you discover by chance before telling all your friends to get

here as soon as possible, Which is much the same way we feel. Brilliant. Q

Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. LNXSW

Cafe Central B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 18, tel. (+4) 0268 41 19 26,

contact@cafe-central.ro, www.cafe-central.ro. Take your coffee here and

you will be looking out on a large square that unfortunately doubles as

a giant car park, but that aside it is an OK place, serving decent coffee and tea,

and good lemonade. Q Open 09:00-23:00. LBW

Cafeteca B-5, Str. Grigoras Dinicu 1, tel. (+4) 0268 31 02 52, caf-

eteca@gmail.com, cafeteca-brasov.blogspot.com. A wonderful cafe in

every respect, yet this place is so much more than a mere cafe (even if it is a

very good one). You can expect to find all sorts of events going on here, from

Spanish

Bodeguita con Tapas C-5, Str. Politehnicii 6, tel. (+4) 0731 60 09 98,

birou@bodeguita.ro, www.bodeguita.ro. Where once was Taverna, now stands

Bodeguita, a decent attempt at opening a tapas bar in Brasov. Inside the place

is gorgeous: comfy sofas, small tables, nooks and crannies, great decor and two

hams hanging up behind the bar. The paella is convincing, the fresh guacamole

very good, and the tapas themselves generally very good. Serving terrific sangria ,

it is a nice place to spend time. Note it opens early each morning and is great

for breakfast. Q Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00.

PALEXSW

Tapas Restaurant

B-5, Str. Republicii 2, carmen.azvi@yahoo.es. Perhaps the best thing to

happen to lunch in Brasov for many a day. Feast on tapas-sized portions of food

(the omelettes, meatballs and fish cakes were our favourites), enjoy fresh and

well-priced lemonade, and make the most of the brilliant location on the edge of

Piata Sfatului. There are main meals too - besides the tapas - and good value set

menus. Well recommended. Q Open 07:00 - 22:00. ABSW

Cake Shops

Chez Manu

C-4, Str. 15 Noiembrie 52, tel. (+4) 0268 47 09 17/(+4) 0724 89 46 43,

comenzi@chezmanu.ro, www.chezmanu.ro. Cakes ready to go or made to order

from Brasov’s leading bakery. It’s madness in here on a Saturday morning as half

the city comes to collect its wedding cakes: each higher and more impressive than

the other. Q Open 10:00-21:00, Sun, Mon 12:00-21:00. AVGS

The Vintage Pub B-4, Str. Livada Postei 1, tel. (+4) 0745 05 04 87,

www.thevintagepub.ro/brasov. Big pub and club in an imposing location a

short walk from the main part of the Old Town. Set over two levels and boast-

ing a great terrace with good views there is something for everyone here, from

karaoke with amateurs to live music from professionals and DJ nights. Q Open

10:00 - 02:00. PBW

The Winery B-5, Str. Diaconu Coresi 6, tel. (+4) 0268 41 44 33/(+4)

0741 27 27 68, magazin.brasov@halewood.com.ro, www.halewood.com.

ro. New and very good wine bar and wine merchants, where you can both sample

and buy (at greatly reduced prices) a wide range of grape from the cellars of the

increasingly essential Halewood Wineries. A glass on the small terrace here is

a perfect way to start a Brasov evening. Q Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat

09:30 - 21:30, Sun 09:30 - 14:30. PJAGBW

Chinese

Lotus Express

B-4, Str. Muresenilor 20, tel. (+4) 0268 41 20 37/(+4) 0740 25 11 46.

The only vaguely Chinese restaurant in Brasov is a simple affair serving food far

better than you might expect. In fact, its just about the best Chinese that there has

been in the city, a million times better than certain other places we could mention.

Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. VBXS

Lebanese

Amasi C-3, Str. Mihai Viteazul 1, tel. (+4) 0726 07 32 21/(+4) 0368

45 40 33, office@amasi.ro, www.amasi.ro. The first (we think) Lebanese

aCtive Brasov

where to stay

Poiana Brasov

arounD Brasov

Ice Skating Rink (Patinoar Olimpic Brasov) D-1, Parcul Sportiv Brasov,

tel. (+4) 0368 44 22 41. Romania’s only modern ice rink (it opened in 2010)

is just behind Brasov station. Usually open to the public every evening, you can

skate here cheaper than anywhere else in the country. Q Open 18:00 - 19:50,

20:10 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 10:50, 14:00 - 15:50, 16:10 - 18:00, 18:20 - 20:10,

20:30 - 22:30. Opening hours are subject to change at short notice. Entrance 10

lei, skate hire is also 10 lei.

Paradisul Acvatic B-dul Grivitei 2F, tel. (+4) 0268 44 00 70, fax (+4)

0268 44 01 35, www.paradisulacvatic.ro. Open all year round Paradisul Ac-

vatic offers big pools, slides of varying scariness, a proper Olympic-sized pool for

serious swimmers, diving boards, saunas, steam rooms and Turkish baths: and

all for one entrance fee and all under one enormous glass dome. In summer there

is an outside pool too, and a huge sun terrace for those who want to work on their

tans. Q Open 10:00-22:00, Mon 14:00-22:00. Admission 25 lei/2hours, 55 lei/

whole day; children (age 2-10) 25 lei/day, children under two free.

Parc Aventura Cartier Noua, Zona lac Noua, tel. (+4) 0755 08 55 55,

info@parc-aventura.ro, www.parc-aventura.ro. Set over two and a half acres

of forest on the outskirts of the city, this adventure park is the answer to all your

‘what shall we do with the kids today’ prayers. There are trees to climb, tree

houses to explore, daredevil swings and slides, tunnels, assault courses and all

sorts of other activities for grown-ups and kids. In all there are more than 100

activities and eight different trails (one of which welcomes children as young as

four years old). You will find it opposite the zoo (follow the signs for the zoo from

Calea Bucuresti. The turn-off is just past Metro if you are coming from the city. Q

Open 10:00-21:00. Admission (3hrs) adults 37 lei, students 32 lei, children 8-11

27 lei, children 4-7 21 lei.

Sightseeing Around Brasov

Bran Castle (Castelul Bran) Str. Traian Mosoiu 24, tel. (+4) 0268

23 77 00, office@bran-castle.com, www.bran-castle.com. Absolutely

not Dracula’s Castle, Bran really does look the part, as though it ought to be

Dracula’s Castle. The truth is that Vlad the Impaler ( Vlad Ţepeş ) - the inspiration

behind part of the Dracula myth - never spent much time here. The ruins of his

real castle are at Poienari, on the other side of the Carpathians.

Harman

The proud church tower of Harman, 12km north of Brasov, is visible for kilometres

around on the windswept plain; four small turrets warn visitors that the authorities

were allowed to sentence criminals to death. Seven towers dot the 12m high ring

wall, and one of the towers (formerly used as a chapel, now bricked up, waiting for

renovations) boasts valuable medieval frescoes. Inside the church, the elaborate

altar was donated by Swedish king Karl XII in the 17th century, who took refuge

here with his soldiers during a wild goose-chase through Europe after a lost battle

in Russia. The walls used to be lined with refuge cells for local families, but the

stones were needed for local administration buildings. The shelters for the local

nobility and their families (mayor, priest, doctor, notary) are perched on the walls of

the church itself. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon.

Prejmer

One of Eastern Europe’s best preserved fortified churches (pictured above)

lies 16km northeast of Brasov. Surrounding a cross-shaped church (originally

built by the Teutonic knights) are walls 12m high and 4m thick that protected

the church and Prejmer’s inhabitants during times of war, when each family would

retreat into its own room. Wheat and smoked hams - stored in the towers - were

sufficient to support the whole village during long sieges. The entrance is a

separate fortress with portcullis, complete with holes once used for pouring

boiling tar on would be invaders. A deep moat and drawbridge once surrounded

the fortress. Prejmer was often the front-line, it being the most north-eastern

Saxon settlement, but although Prejmer was attacked more than 50 times by

Mongols, Turks, Tartars, Cossacks and Moldavians, the fortified church was

overwhelmed only once. The fortress is today home to an interesting museum

displaying Saxon artefacts. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Closed

Sun, Mon. Admission 8 lei, students 4 lei. There are six trains a day from Brasov

to Prejmer, the journey taking just 20 minutes. A taxi from Brasov to Prejmer

costs from 30-40 lei.

The mountain resort of Poiana Brasov has long been a staple of the UK ski

holiday brochures, attracting a strange breed of curious skier on a budget for the

best part of 30 years. Yet where once the limited skiing was offset by the prices

(it used to be very, very cheap to ski here), today Poiana’s charms are less obvi-

ous. Prices are now relatively high (indeed, in terms of kilometres of piste for your

money it is one of Europe’s most expensive resorts) and while new hotels have

been built at a rate unlike anywhere else in the country - increasing the resort’s

capacity many times over – very little has been spent on improving what was

always a very limited ski area.

Though a new high-speed eight-man gondola replaced Poiana’s decrepit old

open-top gondola two winters ago - at a stroke ending the queuing nightmare (or

at least alleviating it somewhat) - no new ski runs were carved out to go with it,

so the four or five slopes are now more crowded than ever. Indeed, it could be

argued that Poiana is at its most charming outside the ski season : you have

therefore picked a good time to visit.

For full reviews and price information of Brasov’s hotels, see inyourpocket.

com/romania .

Hotels

Alinalex B-dul Grivitei 2F, tel. (+4) 0268 44 00 10.

Ambient C-4, Str. Aninoasa 5, tel. (+4) 0268 47 08 56.

Apollonia C-4, Str. Neagoe Basarab 7, tel. (+4) 0268 47 61 63.

Aro Palace B-4, B-dul Eroilor 27, tel. (+4) 0268 47 76 64.

Bella Muzica B-5, Piata Sfatului 19, tel. (+4) 0268 47 79 56.

Capitol B-5, B-dul Eroilor 19, tel. (+4) 0268 41 89 20.

Casa Muresan B-2, Str. Nicopole 54, tel. (+4) 0268 41 43 73, (+4)

0744 57 84 99.

Casa Tepes C-4, Str. Tepes 14, tel. (+4) 0268 41 39 17.

Casa Wagner B-5, Piata Sfatului 5, tel. (+4) 0268 41 12 53.

Chambers’n Charm Str. Stejerisului 27, tel. (+4) 0268 51 29 92.

City Center C-4, Str. Traian Grozavescu 4, tel. (+4) 0268 41 75 83.

Classic Inn A-6, Str. Tibles 7-9, tel. (+4) 0372 77 78 89.

Coroana Brasovului A-6, Str. Vasile Saftu Protopop 1, tel. (+4) 0268 51

38 66.

Gott B-5, Str. Johann Gott 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 22 03.

Pantex C-5, Str. Dobrogeanu Gherea 4C, tel. (+4) 0733 00 76 76.

Ramada Calea Bucuresti 13, tel. (+4) 0268 50 80 09.

Residence Hirscher B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 14, tel. (+4) 0368 40 12 12.

Pensions

Brasovu’ Vechi A-6, Str. Constantin Lacea 12, tel. (+4) 0368 44 60 16.

Casa Albert B-5, Str. Republicii 38, tel. (+4) 0722 88 60 54.

Casa Cranta B/C-4, Str. Mr. Cranta 3A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 69 92.

Casa Kermany B-5, Str. Nicolae Balcescu 26, tel. (+4) 0368 43 60 68.

Dolce Far Niente B-4, Str. Lupeni 11, tel. (+4) 0268 41 36 94.

Montana Guest House A-5, Str. Stejerisului 2A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 27 31.

Old City A-6, Piata Unirii 12 bis, tel. (+4) 0731 31 40 14.

Pensiunea Da Vinci B-5, Str. Apollonia Hirscher 4, tel. (+4) 0268 41 55 30.

Pensiunea Italiana A-3, Str. Lunga 70, tel. (+4) 0268 47 60 01.

Pensiunea Mury B-3, Str. De Mijloc 62, tel. (+4) 0268 41 87 40.

Pensiunea Natural B-5, Str. Castelului 58, tel. (+4) 0744 32 12 73.

Pensiunea Noemi B-4, Str. Sfantul Ioan 2, tel. (+4) 0722 12 25 88.

Pensiunea Stejeris A-5, Str. Stejarisului 15, tel. (+4) 0268 47 62 49.

Postavarul B-5, Str. Politehnicii 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 74 48.

Villa Prato A-4, Str. Stefan Octavian Iosif 2, tel. (+4) 0268 47 33 71.

Perched on a rock, strategically overlooking one of the most important

mediaeval trading routes in this part of Europe, Bran is certainly impressive - even

scary - from afar. And while Romanians are quick to point out that Bran Castle has

indeed little to do with our fanged friend, you’ll notice quickly that the local tourist

authorities have become experts in making innocent tourists believe otherwise.

The castle was constructed in 1377 to guard the mountain pass and to levy a

tax on all merchants passing through. The castle was for a long time the property

of the city of Brasov, but in 1921 it was offered as a summer residence to

Romania’s Queen Marie. She planted the apple trees in the field below the castle,

as well as a flower garden with more than 200 varieties of dahlias which, just like

the monarchy, didn’t survive socialism. Inside the castle you can wander through

the intriguing maze of corridors, staircases and sparsely decorated rooms. Mind

your head.

As signposting is minimal, you’ll just have to guess what the different rooms

were for. From the windows and balconies there are good views of the valley,

the mountains around, and the tiny but picturesque courtyard. The 57-metre

deep well has been closed off, and for lack of coins, people through banknotes in

for good luck. Recent geological surveys showed that the Dietrichstein rock the

castle is built on could crumble during an earthquake, so for the past few years

workers have been reinforcing the rock by drilling holes for steel cables straight

through it. Next to the entrance is a small open air museum with buildings moved

here from villages surrounding Bran.

On the other side of the castle, the small customs museum ( Muzeul Vama

Medievala ) can be entered on the same ticket. There are few English captions,

but the helpful staff can tell you more about the collection of photos, maps and

weapons on display.

Near the castle are various markets (one subtly called Bazar Dracula ) selling

woolly sweaters, Dracula junk and delicious local cheeses, smoked or wrapped

in bark. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Closed Mon. Admission 20 lei (photography

fee included), seniors 15 lei, students 5-10 lei, video cameras 20 lei. There is a

regular (hourly) bus service to Bran from Brasov’s Autogara No. 2 (A-1). Tickets

cost 4 lei and can be bought from the driver. A taxi from Brasov to Bran will cost

around 50 lei.

Queen Marie’s Chapel, Bran

Walk around the back of Bran Castle, and cross the footbridge and the rubbish-

strewn meadow (used for grazing) to reach a monument set in the rocks upon which

a plaque reads ‘Queen Marie’s heart was interred here in 1940.’ Which is entirely

true. The rest of her body was buried at her palace on the coast in Balcik. After

the war, her body was moved when Balcik became part of Bulgaria and the case

with her heart moved to Bucharest by the communists. A little further on, a copy

of Marie’s chapel at Balcik stands derelict next to the old customs post.

Feldioara

In the early 13th century, German knights returning from the crusades understood

the potential wealth of the region, and hung around. They built their central castle

on a hill overlooking the plain, 19km north of Brasov. A 4m thick wall, a moat and

four towers (of which the western one is the oldest) were not enough to prevent the

Mongols and Turks from destroying the castle, and after restorations an earthquake

in 1838 did heavy damage. Since then, it has been in ruins.

When the knights were kicked out of the country in 1225 by the Hungarian king,

they moved to Prussia in Northern Europe, where they immediately built a new,

grander castle, also called Marienburg (Malbork, see Gdánsk In Your Pocket on

the In Your Pocket website for details). The unguarded ruins can be explored by

foot and can also be admired from the left hand side of a train running from Brasov

to Sighisoara.

When the weather is good (and even at this time of year it can be changeable),

take the gondola or cable car up to the top of the mountain for outstanding views

of the entire surrounding area, before following one of the easy paths back down.

The energetic can join the many locals who view hiking up the nearest mountain

as a national birthright. Do note, however, that Poiana Brasov does not offer the

best or most challenging hiking routes in the country: serious climbers should

head for Fagaras .

Getting there

There is really only one way to get to Poiana Brasov , and that is by car. Driving

the 12 kilometres from Brasov takes no more than 20 minutes, though it depends

on traffic and the weather. Brasov’s taxi drivers will be happy to take you, but will

charge you around 35 lei for their trouble. Getting a taxi back into Brasov is a far

more troubling – and often far more expensive - experience.

There is also a public bus service to Poiana (No. 20) which leaves every half an

hour from the Livada Postei bus stop on the corner of B-dul Eroilor and Str. Dupa

Ziduri. A standard Brasov transport ticket is all you need.

Directory

Health & Pharmacies

Help Net B-5, Piaţa Sfatului 7, tel. (+4) 0368 45 60 89, www.helpnet.

ro. Modern chemist on Brasov’s main square. Q Open 08:00-21:00, Sat, Sun

09:00-18:00. Also at Str. Republicii 18, Str. Grivitei 47, Str. Muresenilor 18.

SensiBlu B-5, B-dul Republicii 58, tel. (+4) 0268 47 44 39, www.

sensiblu.com. Friendly, modern chemists. Q Open 08:00-22:00, Sat, Sun

10:30-18:30. Many other locations around the city.

Spitalul Clinic de Urgenta (Emergency Hospital) Calea Bucuresti

25-27, tel. (+4) 0268 32 00 22. Brasov’s main emergency hospital. English

spoken by almost all of the excellent staff. You will de in good hands. Q Open

24hrs.

Shopping Centre & Cinema

Eliana Mall

Str. Bazaltului 2, tel. (+4) 0268 40 79 00, www.elianamall.ro. Brasov’s

biggest shopping mall, and home to the city’s only multiplex cinema: City-

Plex . If coming by public transport take bus 15 or 16 from Livada Postei to

Stadionul Municipal. Q Open 10:00-22:00.

Tourist Information

Tourist Information Centre

B-5, Piaţa Sfatului 30, tel. 0268 41 90 78. Inside the Old Town Hall

building on Piaţa Sfatului, Brasov’s main Tourist Information Centre (TIC) is

friendly and efficient. Q Open 09:00-17:00. Also at B-dul Garii 5.

Rasnov Fortress (Cetatea Rasnov)

Approximately halfway between Brasov and Bran, the town of Rasnov ( Rosenau

to the Saxons) was founded around 1225 by German Teutonic Knights. Rasnov’s

impressive fortress - it really does look the part, although the stupid, Hollywood-

style Rasnov sign in front of it somewhat dampens its dramatic impact - was

built in the 14th century to protect the people of Rasnov and surrounding villages

from the numerous invasions happening at the time. During periods of war, the

townsfolk would pick up their cattle and retreat into the fortress. After two sieges

ended in surrender because of a lack of water, a 174m deep well was dug by

two Turkish prisoners: it took them 17 years and the pair were rewarded with

their freedom on completion. In 1658, the Rosenauers had to retreat here for

three years while war raged on the plains below. The last siege took place in

1690 (Turks again; they lost), after which the fortress was severely damaged

by fire (1718), rebuilt (1719) and partially levelled by an earthquake (1802). Last

use of the fortress as a refuge was during the revolutions of 1821 and 1848,

when Romanian refugees and revolutionaries resided here. Although much of

the fortress has been renovated over the past decade, work still continues

on some buildings. The views from the top of the fortress over the plains and

mountains are magnificent, and a lack of tourists makes the place feel much

more authentic than Bran Castle. To reach the fortress, climb up the steps from

the square immediately below, or be lazy and drive up the road towards Poiana

Brasov, and turn left at the Cetate sign.

In Rasnov itself, the Saxon church - the only protestant church left in the town - is

well worth a visit. Find it just off the town’s main square. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.

Admission 10 lei. To get to Rasnov by public transport the best way is by minibus:

these leave every hour or so from Brasov’s Autogara 2. The journey takes about

30 minutes.

Poiana Brasov Equestrian Centre

Poiana Brasov is home to one of Romania’s best equestrian centres. Pony trekking

(40 lei for 30 minutes) for children is always popular, as are longer rides for experi-

enced riders through the forest. The Equestrian Centre ( Centrul de Echitatie ) is

found about two kilometres back down the road to Brasov. The telephone number

for reservations is (+4) 0268 26 21 61 .

Poiana Brasov Food & Drink

Coliba Haiducilor

Poiana Brasov, tel. (+4) 0268 26 21 37. A must on any trip to Poiana, Coliba

serves traditional Romanian food in a wooden building close to the ski slopes. Sit

at one of the long wooden tables and have a second look at the decoration: guns,

dried peppers and cobs of corn and lots of skins (boars, sheep, wolves and one

bear). Order the bors de miel (lamb soup) which comes with half a lamb’s skull.

Wash it down with a tuica (plum brandy), served in a blue ceramic tree trunk. Q

Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon.

Vânãtorul

Poiana Brasov, tel. (+4) 0268 26 23 54, fax (+4) 0268 26 24 12, office@

restaurant-vanatorul.ro, www.restaurant-vanatorul.ro. There’s some pretty

upmarket food to be had at this place, which sits proudly at the foot of the moun-

tains. The interior has a rustic-modern feel the way that some Romanian restau-

rants can get away with. Dishes include sausages made from wild boar and bear

meat. Splendid terrace. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00 PALEBSW

Hostels

Kismet Dao C-4, Str. Neagoe Basarab 8, tel. (+4) 0268 51 42 96.

Liberty Villa A-6, Str.Democratiei 2B, tel. (+4) 0736 86 64 38.

what to see

introDuCing Brasov

arrival & transPort

what to see

Public transport in Brasov

If you keep to the main tourist area of Brasov (Old Town and Schei), the only

bus routes of any interest will be the Nos. 50 - Livada Postei to Piaţa Unirii ;

50B - Livada Postei to Solomon’s Rocks and 52 - Piaţa Unirii to B-dul

Eroilor and the Parc Central . Of note too is the No. 20 , which serves Poiana

Brasov, and 22 to Autogara No. 2 (for coaches to Bran). Tickets (1.50 lei)

for Brasov’s buses must be bought from an RAT kiosk before boarding, and

stamped in the little machines once on board. There is a fine of 50 lei if you

are caught with no ticket. Taxis are cheap in Brasov and better than busses

for longer distances. Just make sure you take a taxi belonging to a trusted taxi

company such as Martax (tel. 0268 313 040).

Essential Brasov

Brasov Citadel B-4, Dealul Cetatii. Strategically overlooking the town and

the plains to north, the citadel is part of Brasov’s outer fortification system.

In 1524 the first wooden defence walls were erected, replaced between 1554

and 1690 by the four massive stone bastions you see now. The citadel was

abandoned in the 17th century, after technological innovations made cannons

stronger than the building; now it is a restaurant that keeps bizarre hours and

- of all things - a nightclub.

Brasov Fortifications B/C-5; A-4/5, Aleea Tiberiu Brediceanu; Str. Dupa

Ziduri. Ever since the Saxon settlers arrived in the early 12th century, invading

Mongols, Turks and others gave them a tough time, repeatedly destroying the old

settlements of Bartholoma and Corona. When they had quite enough of it all, the

Saxons set themselves to build fortifications around their town, first consisting of

earthen walls and wooden barriers, later reinforced with stones. Most work was

done between 1400 and 1650, when outer and inner walls were erected, together

with massive defence towers and gates.

Getting there

Brasov is 167 kilometres from Bucharest. As there is no motorway, it takes

even the most lunatic of drivers two and a half hours to make the trip. The

train takes at least three hours, but is getting faster as track-upgrading work

approaches completion. By summer’s end the journey shold take no more than

two and a half hours.

Arriving by train

Brasov’s railway station is not half as bad as many others in the country. In

the main hall you will find two ATMs, a Relay press store, a helpful Wasteels

ticket office and even a chemist. Outside - in a big and well organised car park

- taxis and buses await. A taxi into the city centre costs around 8 lei. Just make

sure the taxi displays the name, logo and phone number of a trusted Brasov

taxi company, such as Martax . Cheapskates can take bus No. 4 into the city

centre: buy tickets (1.50 lei each) from the RAT kiosk next to the bus stop. Bus

No. 4 leaves from platform three. It takes around 10 minutes to get to Livada

Postei , the main bus stop in the city centre.

Wasteels D-2, B-dul Garii 5 (Gara Brasov), tel. (+4) 0268 42 43 13, www.

wasteelstravel.ro. Efficient, friendly, multi-lingual staff will sell you tickets to just

about anywhere. Q Open 08:00-19:00, Sat 09:00-14:00.

the Turnul Vanatorilor ; next to it is the Casa Padurarilor restaurant. A number of

walking routes up the Tampa also begin here. The newest construction is the

area is the Tampa complex, which has a great terrace and an indoor swimming

pool (open 08:00-21:00; day tickets 40 lei adults, 20 lei children) which really does

offer a swim with a view.

Parc Central & Piata Revolutiei B/C-4. Brasov is blessed with a large,

well-tended park in the very heart of the city. In summer, when the flowers are

in full bloom it really is a picture postcard kind of place, and is mercifully free of

the dogs which blight Bucharest’s parks. There is a good children’s playground,

complete with bouncy slides and bouncy castles, there is an area where old men

get together for serious games of chess (don’t even think about challenging them

to a game unless you are very, very good). In summer you can hire bikes for free

(you will need ID) on the edge of the park opposite the Capitol hotel.

There are two buildings of note overlooking the park, both masterpieces which

date to the end of the 19th century. The first, the cream and yellow building, is the

neoclassical Town Hall (Primaria), built from 1897-8 while the second, next to it, is

the sensational Secessionist Post Office , spoilt only by the ugly Posta Romana

logo that adorns the façade. On the other side of Piata Revolutiei (where a major

anti-Ceausescu demonstration in November 1987 - considered the first of a chain

of events that would eventually bring the dictator down, two years later - was held)

is another masterpiece, the Prefecture , home to Brasov County Council.

Train Schedule

From Brasov To Brasov

Dep. A r r. City Dep. A r r.

R 08:28 11:20 BUCHAREST R 08:45 11:53

R 10:13 13:10 BUCHAREST IC 13:30 16:33

R 12:40 15:30 BUCHAREST R 14:45 17:35

R 14:25 17:25 BUCHAREST R 15:00 18:39

IC 19:05 22:15 BUCHAREST R 17:45 21:01

A 09:52 16:14 CLUJ NAPOCA A 10:49 17:12

IC 16:47 22:51 CLUJ NAPOCA IC 12:39 18:50

A 14:42 17:27 SIBIU A 17:00 19:41

IC 16:47 19:19 SIGHISOARA IC 16:35 18:50

Train schedule verified June 20, 2011. The full Romanian train timetable

is available online at mersultrenurilorcfr.ro.

Northern Fortifications

The best place to start a tour of the fortifications is on the northern side, at Strada

Dupa Ziduri (which translates as Street Behind the Walls ). You will find it just north

of the Livada Postei bus stop, to the right (face on) of the taxi rank. The street

starts out inauspiciously - as a car park - but soon gives way to a relatively nice

walk alongside the old, high city walls. You will pass under the Bastionul Graft ,

a wonderful 15th century relic, well preserved and housing the usual museum of

medieval weaponry and suchlike. Above it is the White Tower ( Turnul Alb ), which

you can climb up to via some very steep steps – do not try it unless you are feeling

extremely fit and agile. There are more steps when you actually get to the tower,

but the views from the top are fantastic.

Follow the path between the wall and the canal (yes, it is a canal) a little further and

you will see an old blue sign pointing the way to the Black Tower ( Turnul Negru ). You

will notice immediately that the tower (which you can see by glancing up to your right)

is in fact white. A steep path leads up to it. It once housed a weapons’ museum but is

currently closed. The deck in front of it is a great location for photos, however.

Follow the walls as they veer to the left, and look out for the almost fairy-tale

Catherine’s Gate ( Poarta Ecaterina ), built in 1559 and once the main entrance to

medieval Kronstadt . It is the only original city gate to have survived. A little further on

is the classicist Poarta Schei gate, which was built much later, in 1827. (For decades

Poarta Schei was the only gate Romanians could use to enter and exit Brasov).

Passing by an athletics stadium (which is part of Brasov’s exceptional sports high

school), the vaguely gothic-looking building which rears up, overlooking the tennis

courts, is known as the Olimpia complex, originally built almost entirely of wood in

1894. It has been recently renovated and is home to a restaurant with terrace, as

well as the Olimpia Tennis Club.

Is there a town in Romania more geared towards foreign visitors than

Brasov? We doubt it. That is probably why the place continues to

attract so many tourists year after year while other cities in the area

- even those with airports - have to make do with far fewer. Maybe

it’s the incredible number of places to eat and drink: they seem to be

endless at this time of year, when Piata Sfatului, Strada Republicii and

the streets that run off them all resemble one huge terrace. (Working

out which terrace belongs to which establishment is part of the fun -

or challenge).

Summer in Brasov sees the city at its very best. While there are

those who insist winter is the best time to visit, when the snow covers

the ground, we are big fans of Brasov summers: though warm and

sunny they are far cooler than those of the capital, Bucharest, where

the heat is so stifling. Brasov does summer - like it does just about

everything else - very well indeed. It’s not for nothing that we have no

hesitation in making it our favourite city in Romania. And we know we

are not alone.

Piata Sfatului & History Museum B-5. Brasov’s showpiece Piata Sfatului

(Council Square ), known to the Saxon population as the Marktplatz , is one of

the most beautiful main squares in Romania. Fully pedestrianised, the square was

refurbished in 1988 and again a couple of years ago. It has never looked better.

All around the square are sturdy houses with high lofts for storing goods, though

few - if any - are still lived in. In the middle of the square is the Old City Hall , dating

from 1420, and now home to both Brasov’s History Museum (Open 10:00-17:30.

Closed Mon. Admission 6.00 lei, students and children 1.00 leu) and the excellent

Tourist Information Centre (Open 09:00-17:00).

The city hall’s tower is in fact much older than the building itself, and was once

a watchtower for approaching barbarians before being incorporated into the main

building. What you see today is largely the result of an 81-year renovation after a

great fire hit Brasov in 1689.

Elsewhere in Piata Sfatului you will find a number of places to eat and drink,

and the startling Romanian Orthodox Cathedral at No. 3. The square hosts the

annual Carpathian Stag Music Festival (the city’s biggest annual event) and

there is often some kind of craft or food market going on too.

IYP Romania Srl 1999-2011 unless

No part of this publication may be

reproduced in any form without written

permission from the copyright owner.

The trademark In Your Pocket is

used under license from UAB In Your

Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania

tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Brasov In Your Pocket

IYP Romania Srl

Str. Stefan Burileanu 1-3

Bl. 21E, Sc. 1, Ap. 8

014191 Bucuresti, Romania

Tel. (+4) 021 321 44 18

brasov@inyourpocket.com

www.inyourpocket.com

Project Manager Remus Mesar

Tel. (+4) 0722 55 94 94

Cover ( Catherine’s Gate ) © Dreamstime.

Tours & Excursions

Active Travel B-5, Str. Republicii 50, tel. (+4) 0268 47 71 12, (+4) 0729

32 15 15, office@activetravel.ro, www.activetravel.ro. Hiking, trekking and

biking tours in Piatra Craiului and the Bucegi and Fagaras mountains. Rent-a-bike,

day trips of Brasov and the region (Bran and Peles castles, Sighisoara, Viscri).

Recommended not only by us, but by our friends at Lonely Planet, too. Q Open

10:00 - 18:00. Sat 9:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Also at Str. Toamnei 2, bl. 1, tel. (+4)

0268 32 15 15, Open 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 9:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun.

IYP Romania Srl

is a member of the

Romanian Audit

Bureau of Circulation

(BRAT)

Schei & The Junii A-6. You shouldn’t leave Brasov without a stroll through

Schei, the district where for centuries Romanians were forced to live, as only

Saxons could live within the city walls. Walk up Strada Prundului to Piata Unirii and

the beautiful Sf. Nicolae church and wander around the small curving streets that

gradually slope upwards against the hill. Note the many different iron door handles

and knockers adorning the pretty houses.

The church (at Piata Unirii 1-2) was originally built in 1521 in Romanian-

Byzantine style and considerably expanded in the 18th century, the church with

its slender tower and four corner towers now looks more like a Transylvanian

German church. The building actually holds four churches, as the tower and the

two wings each have a chapel inside. Behind the church you’ll find the grave of

Nicolae Titulescu (1882-1941), finance minister, foreign minister and president of

the League of Nations. He died in exile in Switzerland, was buried in Cannes and

was only reburied in Romania in 1990. The monument near his grave quotes a

line from his will: ‘ I wish to be buried in Transylvania. My friends will know to

find a place according to my wish .’

On the same site is the First Romanian School Museum (Piata Unirii 2-3;

open 10:00-17:00), for centuries a centre for Romanian teaching and book print-

ing. The small museum houses countless Romanian ‘firsts’: the oldest Romanian

bible (printed on goats’ skin), the oldest letter written in Romanian using the Latin

alphabet (previously, Romanian was written with Cyrillic letters), a page from an

11th century schoolbook and much more. The printing press itself printed only 39

books, taking 20 workers and eight translators months to finish just one book. No

wonder a book was worth 12 oxen in those days. Also here is the tiny Museum of

the Junii ( Muzeul Junilor ), showing the seven different traditional costumes the

Schei men wore; Schei women had only one.

Each Spring the Junii hold a massive party up at Salomon Rocks (Pietrele lui

Salomon, one hour’s walk from Piata Unirii). The party follows the Junii-procession

through the centre of Brasov, which celebrates the one day a year that Romanians

were allowed to enter the Saxon part of Brasov without paying.

Ice Rink (Patinoar)

Sighisoara, Targu Mures

Bus Station

(Autogara 2)

Sibiu, Fagaras,

Rasnov, Bran

Southern Fortifications

The walls along the foot of the Tampa Mountain were once 12 metres high and

two metres thick. Over the past few years almost all of the wall on this side - along

Aleea Tiberiu Bradiceanu - has been rebuilt, and wooden walkways placed on

top so that you can climb up and take some terrific photos of the city. Where there

are no walkways you can stroll along the quiet path next to the wall.

A number of the original guard towers on this side of Brasov’s fortifications

have survived remarkably well, and the first you will come to is the imposing Weav-

ers’ Bastion next to the Olimpia building. The best preserved part of Brasov’s

fortifications, the bastion ( Bastionul Tesatorilor ) houses a small but impressive

museum (with some English captions) showing photographs of long-gone bas-

tions, impressive weapons decorated with Arabic inscriptions (once used by the

Turks to bash Saxons) and some huge guns. Most impressive of all is the large

model of Brasov in 1600, made in 1896 for the Millenium Exhibition in Budapest

(in those days Brasso was part of Hungary). When Nicolae Ceausescu visited the

museum in 1968, a bright and shiny model of the Schei district was added to the

old, depicting Schei circa 1850. (The bastion is open 10:00-18:00, closed Sun.

Admission 3.50 lei; children, students 1.50 lei).

There are five more towers and bastions on this side of the wall, known as, in

order, Turnul Artelor , Turnul Funarilor , Turnul Vanatorilor , Turnul Lemnarului

and Bastionul Postavarilor . All have been restored and three ( Turnul Artelor,

Turnul Vanatorilor and Bastionul Postavarilor) are open to the public, usually

from 09:00-18:00. Entrance to all is free. While the Bastionul Postavarilor is the

most impressive (outside and in), it is the upper floors (mind the steep ladders)

of the Turnul Vanatorilor that offers the best views of the city.

Railway Station (CFR)

Unirea Shopping

Centre

Bus Station

(Autogara 1)

The cable car up to the top of the Tampa is found a short walk uphill from

what to see

Strada Sforii (Rope Street) A-5. Heading into Brasov through Poarta Schei,

the third street on your right is Strada Sforii, allegedly the narrowest street in

Europe . It dates from the 18th century and, just over a metre wide, is perhaps

the only street in Romania where you can touch both sides with your hands at

the same time.

merchants’ houses on Piata Sfatului. The orthodox cathedral was built in 1896,

and is worth entering for the frescoes and the impressive decorations.

Sf. Peter & Paul’s Roman-Catholic Church B-5/4, Str. Muresenilor

19-21. Brasov’s only Baroque church was built in 1782 with financial help from

Maria Theresia. Peek inside at the impressive interior.

Synagogue

A/B-5, Str. Poarta Schei 27, tel. (+4) 0268 51 18 67. Jews have been in Brasov

since 1807, when Aron Ben Jehuda was given permission by the until then restrictive

Saxons to live in the city. The Jewish Community of Brasov was officially founded 19

years later, followed by the first Jewish school in 1864 and building of the synagogue

in 1901. The Jewish population of Brasov expanded rapidly to 1280 ‘souls’ in 1910

and 4,000 in 1940. Q Open 09:00-16:00.

Bucharest, Predeal, Sinaia

Tampa Mountain A/C-5, Telecabina Tampa, Str. Brediceanu. Ascend

Mount Tampa by cable car or by walking up one of the paths twisting up the

hill to soak up excellent views of medieval Brasov, the incredibly flat plain to

the nor th and of course the Carpathians. In the 1950’s, when Brasov was

named Orasul Stalin (Stalin City), trees were chopped down so that the name

of the great dictator appeared on the hillside facing the old town. Nature has

recovered from the shock, and the hillside is now a nature reser vation. From

the upper cable car station walk five minutes (not 15 as indicated) along

the path to the rock y outcrop (the top, 955m high) for the best views of the

old town. You’ll clearly be able to make out the different par ts of Brasov: the

German par t of town has hundreds of red roofs crammed between straight

streets surrounding Piata Sfatului, while the Romanian Schei district to the

south (left) is a spaghetti of small streets, jumbled houses and cemeteries,

petering out towards the hills. Single/return ticket 15.00 lei. Q Open 09:30

- 17:00, Mon closed.

Brasov

Citadel

(Cetatuia)

Museums & Zoo

Art Museum B-4, B-dul Eroilor 21, tel. (+4) 0268 47 72 86, fax (+4)

0268 47 51 72. Well wor th the cheap admission price, this museum displays

a wide selection of foreign and domestic ar t. The upper floor is in fact a who’s

who of Romanian 20th centur y painting, with all the big names, including

Theodor Pallady, Nicolae Grigorescu, Stefan Luchian and Horia Bernea well

represented. Climb down into the cellar and view beautiful European cr ystal

and porcelain as well as a large collection of Oriental vases and statuettes

from China, Tibet and Old Persia. Admission 4.00 lei, children 1.00 leu. Q

Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Casa Muresenilor B-5, Piata Sfatului 25, tel./fax (+4) 0268 47 78 64,

casa_muresenilor@yahoo.com, www.muzeulmuresenilor.ro. Quirk y and

charming would well describe this unusual family museum situated across from

Brasov’s central square. The Casa Muresenilor is a memorial to the talented

artistic family of Jacob Muresan, a teacher who sensibly married into good looks

and money and in 1838 became founding editor of the newspaper Gazeta

Transilvaniei . The museum is housed in the dynastic home, and features

letters, photographs, heirlooms and keepsakes of the musical, literary and

military members and in-laws of the clan Muresan. No English text, instead a

polite, friendly, fluent English-speaking guide will show you around. Q Open

09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:00-17:00. Closed Mon Admission 4.50 lei, students

and children 1.50 lei.

Ethnographic Museum B-4, B-dul Eroilor 21A, tel. (+4) 0268 47 62 43,

fax (+4) 0268 47 55 62, muzeu@etnobrasov.ro, www.etnobrasov.ro. Step

back into the past and view Romanian folk costumes accompanied by black and

white photographs which illustrate exactly how they were worn and by whom.

The museum also shows the evolution of weaving from an old spinning wheel to

a mechanised loom which is still operational. Authentic Romanian crafts such as

hand carved crosses and embroidered shirts are on sale in the lobby. Q Open

10:00-18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3.00 lei, students and children 1 leu.

Museum of Urban Civilisation (Muzeul Civilizatiei Urbane) B-5,

Piata Sfatului 15, tel. (+4) 0268 47 55 62, www.etnobrasov.ro. Brasov’s

newest museum takes a fascinating look at the history of urban civilisation from

the 17th century onwards, with the focus being of course on Brasov itself, and its

role as a meeting point of east and west in its Saxon heyday. Set over four levels

in a fantastic building dating from the 1600s the exhibition boasts captions in

four languages, as well as knowledgeable, approachable and multi-lingual staff

happy to answer any questions and fill in any gaps. It is a joy to visit. Q Open

Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Zoo Str. Brazilor 1 (Cartier Noua), tel. (+4) 0268 33 77 87, www.zoobrasov.

ro. Perhaps the best zoo in Romania. Featuring lions, tigers, jaguars, lynx, monkeys

and a wide variety of exotic birds, Brasov zoo is especially good for those who

want to learn about the wildlife specific to the Carpathian mountains (this area,

basically). Almost all of the species found wild in these parts can be seen here,

including the Carpathian stag and the brown bear. Q Open 08:00-20:00 Admis-

sion 5.00 lei, children 3.00 lei.

The Black Church (Biserica Neagra) B-5, Curtea Johannes Honterus

2, tel. (+4) 0268 51 18 24. Brasov’s most important landmark, apparently

the largest church between Vienna and Istanbul, towers over Piata Sfatului and

the old town. The Black Church has a turbulent history: built between 1385 and

1477 on the site of an earlier church (destroyed by Mongol invasions in 1242), the

construction of the Marienkirche was hampered by extensive damage caused by

Turkish raids in 1421. The church was given its new name after disaster stuck

again in 1689, when the ‘Great Fire’ levelled most of the town, blackening the

walls of the church. Restoration took almost 100 years. Of two towers planned,

only one (65.6m high) was finished.

The original Gothic interior has suffered under the restorations, and the lofty,

light space you see nowadays is mostly Baroque. Humanist Johannes Honterus,

whose 101-year-old statue can be seen next to the tower, became Stadtpfarrer

(priest) a few years after bringing Lutheranism to Brasov in 1542. Listen to the

impressive 4000-pipe organ dating from 1839 during the concerts held once a

week. Best of all however are the 119 fabulous Anatolian carpets on display. The

rugs were donated by German merchants in the 17th and 18th century, thankful

to have survived their shopping trips into the barbaric lands south and east of

the Carpathians. The collection is the largest of its kind in Europe. The church

holds organ concerts every Tuesday at 18:00. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed

Sun. Admission 6 lei; students 3 lei; children 2 lei.

Poiana Brasov

Town Hall

Theatre

Post Office

Roman Catholic Cathedral

Art & Ethnographical

Museums

Star Department Store

Bastionul

Graft

White Tower

Orthodox

Cathedral

Casa Muresenilor

History Museum & Tourist Information

Bastionul Postavarilor

Black Tower

Urban Civilisation Museum

Churches

Blumana ‘Sf. Gheorghe’ Church C-4, Str. 15 Noiembrie 29, tel. (+4) 0268

41 51 99. It’s a house. Look again... it’s a church! Saint George moved in to the

second floor of an impressive villa in 1934, where Romanian Orthodox believers

improvised a church until redecoration in 1985. The carved wooden furniture still

looks new. Check out the chair with the photo of Mitropolit Plamadeala, Orthodox

archbishop of Transylvania. The wonderful paintings of saints and biblical scenes

on the walls and ceilings were added between 1989 and 1991. Some of the icons

are painted onto (the back of) glass - a Transylvanian speciality.

C. A. Bartolomeu Evangelic Church A-2, Str. Lunga 251, tel. (+4) 0268

41 11 18. Take bus 5 or 9 to the end of Strada Lunga to see the oldest church in

Brasov. Begun in the 13th century, St. Batholomeu was left in the suburbs when

the Saxons decided to move their main settlement to Corona at the foot of Mount

Tampa. You can wander through the well-tended churchyard and admire the old

sundial on the outside of the church and the ‘broken arch windows and vaults on

Gothic ogivs’ inside. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, Thu 09:00-12:00, 15:00-17:00, Sun

11:00-12:00.

Holy Trinity Church A/B-5, Str. Baritiu 12. Built in the late 18th century and

hidden in a courtyard, this ornately decorated Romanian church is well worth a visit.

After viewing the main hall proceed to the candle room and exit into the courtyard

cemetery which contains crypts from the past two centuries. From there you can

observe the two surviving western fortress walls and towers.

Romanian Or thodox Cathedral (Catedrala Or todoxa Sfanta

Adormire a Maicii Domnului) B-5, Piata Sfatului 3. Built in a glaring Byz-

antine style, this church (or rather, the portal) sticks out between the subdued

Str . Johann Gott

Black Church

(Biserica Neagra)

Poarta Ecaterinei

Turnul Vanatorilor

Synagogue

Mt. Tampa Cable Car

Poarta Schei

Weavers’ Bastion (Bastionul Tesatorilor)

St. Nicholas Church

First Romanian School Museum

Classic Inn

Baiulescu Gh.

A-5/B-6

Blaga Lucian

C/D-4

Cetatuiei B/C-4

Cibinului A-4/5

Colinei B-4

Coresi Diaconul B-5

Cosbuc Gheorghe B-5/6

Cranta Ion B-3/C-4

Curtea Honterus JohannesB-5

Cuza A.I.

Demetrescu Traian

A-5

Harghita

A-6

Matei Basarab

C/D-4

P ann Anton A-6

P enes Curcanul B-5

P etofi Alexandru A/B-6

P iaţa Enescu, Gheorghe B-5

Piaţa Sfatului

Podagru

A-6

Romana

D-4

Tampei

D-5

Heading for the capital?

Don’t forget to pick up a copy of

Bucharest In Your Pocket .

Balcescu

B-5/C-4

Brancoveanu Cons.

A-5-6

Dinicu Grigoras

B-5

Hirscher Apollonia

B-5

Muresenilor

B-5/4

Politehnicii

B/C-5

Romer Julius

B-5

Trotus

A-5/6

Balea

A-6

Buzoianu

B/C-4

Dorobantilor

D-4

Iorga Nicolae

B/C-4

Neagoe Basrab

C-4

Pop Pictor

C-5/D-4

Roth Stefan Ludwig

B-5

Varful cu Dor

D-5

Barbusse Henri

A-6

Calea Poienii

A-4/5

Dupa Ziduri

A-5/B-4

Iosif

A/B-4

Negoiu

C-4

Postavarului

B-5/C-4

Russo Alecu

B-5

Vlad Tepes

C-4

Baritiu Gheorghe

A/B-5

Cantacuzino Ion

C-4/3

Eminescu Mihai

B-3/4

Izorul Rece

C/D-4

Nicolae Titulescu

D-4

B-5

Prundului

A-6/5

Saftu Vasile

A-6

Vuia Traian

D-4

B-dul 15 Noiembrie

C-4

Castanilor

C-4

Fantana Rosie

A-6/5

Lunga

A-2/B-4

Nisipului de Jos/Sus

A-5

Piaţa Unirii

A-6

Republicii

B-5/4

Semenicului

A-6

Wagner Valentin

B-5/4

B-dul Eroilor

B-4/C-5

Castelului

B-6/C-5

Gott Johann

B-5

Lupeni

B-4

Olarilor

C-5/D-4

Pietii

C-4/5

Retezat

A-6

Sirul Plaiesilor

B-6

Warthe

A-4

B-dul Muncii

D-5

Cerbului

B-5

B-3/C-4

Gradinarilor

C-4

Malaiesti

A/B-6

Pajistei

A-6

Poarta Schei

A-5

Richter Paul

A-5/6

Stejerisului

A-5

Weiss Michael

B-4/5

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