Cabinet - Colonial Spice Cabinet.pdf - plans(1) - gerwazy762

The Colonial Spice Cabinet

A popular project that’s easy to make – and even easier to sell

Here’s a simple project, featuring quick and easy butt, rabbet and dado joints that let you cut out

the various components and put them together in a flash. We made ours from knotty pine, but it

would look – and sell – even better (and for more money) if it was made from cherry or oak.

A COUPLE OF VALUABLE TIPS:

TIP #1: These Cabinets could easily be made in different styles by merely altering the

shape of the Back (B) and the Sides (A). For example, a straight top and bottom on the Back with

straight Sides (instead of curves at the top and bottom) will produce a more contemporary style.

Changing the Knobs from porcelain to a more contemporary style is yet another way to easily pro-

duce another variable on this Cabinet.

TIP #2: Considerable time can be saved by Stack or Pad-Cutting the profiles at the top

and bottom of the Backs (B) and Sides (A). Once you’ve thicknessed these pieces and cut them to

the proper size on your Table Saw, merely attach a stack of up to four of them together with our

High-Adhesion, Double-Stick Tape...then cut out the profiles on all four at once, using your Scroll

Saw or Bandsaw.

This same procedure could be used for drilling the Mounting Holes in the Backs and the Knob

Mounting Holes in the Drawer Fronts.

Resaw a 5-foot piece of 1” x 4” stock , using your bandsaw for the 1/4" and 3/8” thick pieces (J, K,

L, M & N). Set up your cuts so you end up with 9/32” and 13/32” stock that you’ll then run through

your planer to arrive at the 1/4" and 3/8” thicknesses.

Plane a 4-foot length of 1” x 10” – and a 7-foot length of 1” x 4” to a thickness of 1/2".

Cut the Back (B) from the 1” x 10” stock. Then rip the prepared 1/4" stock to 3-1/8” for the

Drawer Backs (K & L) and Drawer Bottoms (M & N). Next, rip the Sides (A) to 4”. Do not rip the

Back (B) to finished width, yet.

Cut all parts to length , according to the Bill of Materials. Shopsmith’s 24” Miter Gauge Extension

Face offers an adjustable stop that you can set to cut multiple pieces to the exact same length with

ensured repeatability and precision.

Rip the 1/2" wide x 1/4" deep rabbets in the backs of the sides (A) using your Dado set-up and a

wooden, shop-made auxiliary fence to keep from cutting into the face of your Rip Fence (See Detail

A). Use a Feather Board and a Push Block to keep your hands out of harm’s way when making

these cuts

Next, re-adjust your Rip Fence and your Blade’s depth-of-cut to form the 3/8” wide x 1/4" deep

rabbets in the Drawer Fronts (G & H) using the same Fence attachment and a shop-made wooden

Miter Gauge face for support (See Fig. 1). Be sure to make these cuts slowly to prevent chip-out on

the exit side of your cuts.

Adjust your Dado Blade to 1/4" and use your Rip Fence to guide your stock as you cut the 1/8”

deep grooves in the Drawer Sides (J) and Fronts (G & H) to accept the Drawer Bottoms. Again, use

a Push Block for safety.

Remove your Rip Fence and cut the dadoes in the sides (A) and partitions (C & F).

NOTE: As an option, you could also use the Shopsmith Router Table Kit with a Straight Router Bit

of the appropriate width to perform this or any of the previous rabbeting, dadoing or grooving opera-

tions.

Cut out the Side (A) contours using your Bandsaw or Scroll Saw. Then, use a small Drum Sander

to smooth the curved areas.

Dry assemble the Sides (A) and parts (C, D, E & F) with clamps and check for fit. Disassemble

and then use glue and small brads on the outside joints...and glue only on the interior joints.

NOTE: Be sure to check all joints for squareness before leaving the glued Cabinets to set-up thor-

oughly.

Rip the Back (B) to width , then cut and sand the top and bottom contours. Drill the 1/4" mounting

hole and attach the Back to the Sides (A) with 3/4" brads.

Drill the Knob mounting holes in the Drawer Fronts (G & H).

Assemble the Drawers with glue and 3/4" brads. Once the glue has dried completely, use your Belt

Sander to sand each Drawer to fit perfectly in its “cubbyhole”. Be sure to number each Drawer on

the back or bottom to indicate which Drawer fits in which location.

Finish sand the entire Cabinet and round all the edges slightly to achieve a well-worn, Colonial

effect. Apply stain if desired, followed by a finish coat of satin polyurethane or similar material.

Install the Drawer Knobs.

Suggested retail price: $20 to $40 each, depending on craftsmanship and wood used

Bill of Materials

(dimensions in inches)

Sides (2)

1/2 x 4 x 20

Back

1/2 x 8-1/2 x 24-3/4

Horizontal Partitions (2)

1/2 x 3-1/2 x 8-1/4

Bottom

1/2 x 3-1/2 x 8-1/4

Center Drawer Partitions (4) 1/2 x 3-1/2 x 4

Vertical Partition

1/2 x 3-1/2 x 11-3/4

Small Drawer Fronts (6)

1/2 x 3-1/2 x 3-3/4

Large Drawer Front

1/2 x 3-1/2 x 8

Drawer Sides (14)

3/8 x 3-1/2 x 3-1/4

Small Drawer Backs (6)

1/4 x 3-1/8 x 3

Large Drawer Back

1/4 x 3-1/8 x 7-1/4

Small Drawer Bottoms (6) 1/4 x 3-1/8 x 3-1/4

Large Drawer Bottom

1/4 x 3-1/8 x 7-1/2

Miscellaneous

3/4" Porcelain (or other style) Knobs

3/4" Brads

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