Sultanasection7.pdf

The anchor buoys were made from Sculpey. You

could however, carve them from wood but I want-

ed to continue my experimentation with this

material. A buoy from this time period would

have ranged from 2’ to 4’ long depending on the

size of the ship. I decided on the smallest size

since the Sultana was a small schooner. The

Sculpey was shaped into small beads 3/8” long.

See the photos above for details. Six were made

with the intention of picking the best from the “lit-

ter”. An eye bolt was shaped and inserted into

each end of the buoy. The eye bolts were not

inserted fully (1/32” remained between the buoy

and eye).

how I rigged the buoy to the shrouds first. Then

I set up another length of tan (.008) rigging line

to the anchor as shown in the line drawing on

the previous page. The end was tied to the

shroud at the same place where the line for the

buoy was fastened. To finish it up I lashed a

rope coil to the shroud in that same location. I

must mention that I also placed the anchor cable

on the ring of the anchor before I placed it onto

the model. A generous length of .045 tan rigging

line was used. The other end was run beneath

the head rails and through the hawse hole. I

Place a

rope coil

here

Photo #2 shows how I prepared a harness for

each buoy. Two will be needed for each. Three

lines were knotted along another length rigging

line. It took a little time to space them properly

so there was an equal distance between them.

The harness was wrapped around the buoy and

fused with super glue as described earlier. The

three knotted strands are seized at the eye bolt

as shown in photo #3. The space between these

three lines should be tested before the harness is

glued around the buoy permanently. The same

process was repeated on the other side of the

buoy to complete them. Only this time the three

lines of the 2nd harness were run under the

existing harness before being seized to the eye

bolt on the opposite side. (018 black rigging

lines were used for each harness)

When the buoys were finished I weathered them

with some brown acrylic paint so they wouldn’t

look so new and clean. The photo below shows

Eye bolt

Parral beads

Iron bands

Cleats

Sheaves

wrapped it three times around the windlass

drum. Then I pushed the end of the cable into

the corner hole of the hatch directly aft of the

windlass. I was careful not to pull any of these

lines taught. I painstakingly worked them until

they hung loosely and natural. This was not a

simple thing to achieve to my satisfaction but

was well worth the time spent. Finally, each

anchor was lashed to a timberhead as shown in

the same photo.

asked Model Shipways for replacements but I

bought some beech dowels at a local hobby shop

instead. The boom was assembled first and was

very simple. The appropriate sized dowel was

chosen by measuring the diameter against the

plans. The dowel was tapered by hand as shown

in the photo above. The jaws for the boom were

traced from the plans and shaped from a bass

wood sheet 1/32” thick. Small holes were drilled

through the jaw ends so I could string the parral

beads. Drill these holes before you cut the jaws

from the sheet. They will be much too fragile

afterwards and the wood will split. These beads

allowed the boom to move with less friction on

the main mast. They are not supplied with the kit

Boom and Gaffs...

I had to replace all of the dowels provided with

the kit for the boom, gaffs and yards. Most were

badly warped and open grained. I could have

Topping lift (.018)

Tackle for

topping lift

(.008)

3mm single

block

Tackle for

topping lift

belayed here

with rope

coil.

Boom Sheet

(.008 rigging) 4mm

double blocks

Foot ropes

(.008)

and were purchased separately. They are sold

several 100 to each package.

Main and fore gaff construction

2.5mm (s)

The boom will be left natural and not painted.

Eye bolts and cleats were attached as shown on

the plans. I also added some black pinstripe

tape to simulate iron bands around the jaws.

This detail is not shown on the plans. Two

sheaves were also simulated at the end of the

boom as shown in the 2nd photo above. It

shows the boom completed and ready to be

rigged on the model. The sheaves are created

by drilling two small holes about 1/32” apart.

The space between them was recessed with the

tip of a pin vise.

(.008)

4mm (s)

2.5mm (s)

eye bolt

on main

gaff only

cleats)

The main and fore gaffs are constructed using the

same methods described for the boom. In this

case they were both painted black before attach-

ing the blocks and eye bolts. Please note that the

main gaff should have an eye bolt glued into the

underside of the jaws. This detail is not shown on

the plans. It will be used for the throat downhaul.

The fore gaff will not have this feature. See the

photo above for details. After they were complet-

ed to the stage shown in the photo I placed them

onto the model. They were secured around the

mast with black parral beads strung through their

jaws. I rigged the main gaff first.

I secured the boom to the main mast so it sat on

the boom rest. The mast hoops should sit on

top of the boom jaws. Then I rigged the topping

lift first. A 3mm single block was seized to the

end of a generous length of .018 black rigging

line. The other end was seized to the eye bolt

on the aft side of the cap. See the photo on the

previous page for details. I carefully adjusted

the length of the topping lift so the single block

was approximately 1 ½” from the end of the

boom. You will have to hold the boom tip above

the transom in order to check that the distance

looks correct. Check the plans to obtain the

exact angle and distances. The tackle for the

topping lift was rigged using .008 tan rigging

line. After running the loose end through the aft-

most sheave of the boom it was belayed to the

cleat on the Starboard side of the boom. It was

finished off with a rope coil.

The rigging for the main gaff was completed in

the order shown below. See the accompany-

ing photos for details. Also examine figure 33

in the kit-supplied instruction manual.

- Peak Halliard - It will be set up with a tackle on

the starboard side and belayed to a shroud cleat.

I seized a 2.5 mm (S) block onto the end of a gen-

erous length of .008 tan rigging line. The other

end was run through the double block on the mast

head. I pulled it through the starboard sheave

until the single block was positioned at a pleasing

height off of the deck. Then I glued the peak hal-

liard in the double block to maintain that position.

It will make it easier to set up the tackle which

was completed next. The other end of the tackle

will be a 2.5 mm (S) block that has a hook drilled

into it. This block will be hooked into an eye bolt

on deck. The position for the eye bolt was taken

from the plans. The hook and eye bolt was

shaped out of 28 gauge black wire. I seized

another length of .008 rigging line to this block to

use for the tackle. This line was run through the

The boom sheet was rigged as shown in figure

34 of the kit-supplied instructions. It is an accu-

rate diagram however it shows the traveller on

deck which is incorrect. A 4mm double block

was seized around the boom for this tackle.

See the detailed photo provided on the previous

page. The running end was belayed to the pin

on the double block (seized to the traveler). A

small rope coil was hung on this pin afterwards.

I used .008 tan rigging line for the boom sheet.

Knotted footropes (.008) were added to the

boom to complete the boom rigging. The knots

were placed the same distance apart as those

for bowsprit foot ropes.

single block on the end of the peak halliard and

back down through the hooked block on deck.

The running end was belayed to the shroud

cleat and finished off with a rope coil. The other

end of the peak halliard was run through the sin-

gle block rigged to the gaff. Then it was taken

back up through the double block and seized to

the tip of the gaff as shown in the photo.

Main Gaff Rigging

Peak halliard (.008)

- Peak Downhaul (port) Flag Halliard (Starboard)

I used .008 tan rigging line for both. They were

tied to the boom cleats as shown and then run

through the single blocks seized to the tip of the

gaff. Their loose ends were then belayed to

those same cleats and finished off with some

rope coils.

Flag

halliard

(.008)

Throat

halliard

(.008)

- Throat Halliard – Some tan rigging line (.008)

was seized to the single block attached to the

gaff jaws. This was a little tricky. After a few

attempts I was successful. The running end

was taken through the double block on trestle

tree. Then it was finally brought down to the

deck where it was set up in a tackle on the port

side of the model. This tackle is identical to the

one we created for the peak halliard. Only this

time we will need to seize the 2.5 mm (S) block

onto the running end of this halliard while it is on

the model. I was careful to make sure it was

positioned at the same height above the deck as

Throat

downhaul

(.008)

the block for the peak halliard. See the photo pro-

vided.

- Throat Downhaul - The throat downhaul was

seized to the eye bolt on the underside of the

gaff’s jaws. It was brought down to the boom cleat

shown in the photos provided. Finish it off with a

rope coil. I used .008 tan rigging line for the throat

downhaul.

PORT

STARBOARD

A= Throat downhaul B= Peak downhaul C= Flag halliard D= Tackle for throat halliard E= Tackle for peak halliard

The fore gaff was rigged in the same manner.

It was secured to the mast with parral beads.

Rigging for the fore gaff was completed in the fol-

lowing order.

Peak halliard

- Peak Halliard – Was completed as described for

the main gaff, only this time the tackle was set up

on the port side of the hull. See the photo to the

right for details.

- Peak Downhau l- The downhaul (.008) was

rigged by tying a generous length of line to the

mast cleat shown in the same photo. It was run

through the 2.5 mm single block seized to the tip

of the gaff. Then I brought it back down to the

same cleat and finished it off with a rope coil.

Throat

halliard

- Throat Halliard - Rigged as described for the

main gaff, only this time the tackle is set up on

the starboard side of the model.

- Vangs - I will hold off on rigging the vangs until

after the yards are completed. They will just get

in the way and make rigging the yards more diffi-

cult. I will describe it in detail afterwards while

finally completing the back stays as well.

Peak downhaul

The Topsail Yards...

The topsail yards were cut to length and tapered

by hand. The measurements were taken from

the plans. If you examine the plans, you will

notice that the yard on the fore mast is longer

and slightly thicker in diameter than the yard for

the main mast. I took this into consideration

when I was constructing them. The tips of the

yard arms were carefully shaped with a #11 blade

in my hobby knife. I scored each end of the yard

by rolling it under my blade. Be sure not to apply

much pressure because you don’t want to cut the

dowel straight through. I only wanted to create a

shallow cut all the way around the yard. Then I

whittled small shavings of wood back to this line.

Two small cleats were shaped from a strip of

wood 1/16” x 1/16’ thick. See the photo on the

next page for details. After they were assembled

I painted both yards black. To finish them off I

seized 2.5 mm single blocks to both ends of the

yards for their braces.

Details of the fore gaff rigging

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