Russel - photorealist painting techniques (grid enlargement).pdf - Drawing - Maniuland

PHOTOREALIST

PAINTING TECHNIQUES

PHOTOREALIST PAINTING

TECHNIQUES

Published by Mark Alan Russell

This version - 20 September 2009

FOR THE LATEST INFORMATION ON MARK’S ART GO TO

http://www.photorealistpainting.com

or view his blog at

http://www.photorealistpainting.com/wpblog

This book is self published by Mark Alan Russell and is free and subject to no restrictions imposed by the author. I believe in

free speech.

This is an example of a drawing of one of my photorealist paintings.

I’ll take you through the process of creating a photoreal painting, in this case one of Osaka City as well as using other works to

explain the techniques of photorealist painting.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

CONTENTS

SELECTING AN IMAGE

COMPUTER WORK

DRAWING

BASIC COLOR THEORY

PAINTING

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED

• MDF Board

• A mechanical pencil with a 0.5mm lead and some replacement leads

• A few HB pencils

• A good pencil sharpener

• An eraser

• A bowl (to put those messy pencil sharpening’s in)

• A large steel ruler (preferably at least a metre long)

• Some high quality acrylic paint. (See later article on paint colors and mediums)

• A minimum of two ice cube trays (for your paint palettes)

• Taklon haired brushes - 000, 00, 0 sizes are essential and a few larger ones come in handy

• A paint rag

• Several sheets of wet and dry sandpaper - 800, 600, 400, 320 and 240 grit

• A jar of water for cleaning brushes

• Cotton buds

• A water sprayer for keeping the acrylic paint at the right viscosity

• A desk capable of holding the board you will work on as well as the computer monitor

• A comfortable chair

• A computer with reasonable performance

• A scanner

• An image editing program like Photoshop or Gimp

MDF BOARD

MDF board is the perfect support for painting photorealist paintings. Why? Because it is smooth, strong, inexpensive, takes well

to being drawn on with pencil and when you need to use an eraser it allows it to be corrected with minimal problems. It also is

apparently long lasting and if prepared well stable; which when you have poured your heart and soul into a work, not to mention

hundreds of hours, is very important. It comes in a great variety of sizes and is available from just about every good hardware

store. When buying it be careful to check the boards because sometimes they can have damaged edges or surfaces that have

been scratched, banged into or walked on. I generally use 3 mm thick board for small work (up to 60 cm), 6 mm for medium

sized work (up to 90 cm) and 12 mm for anything larger.

PENCILS AND RELATED ITEMS

A good mechanical pencil (I use a Rotring brand) is absolutely

essential because they make the drawing of fine objects so much

easier due to their even and consistent line width. A normal HB

pencil can yield, if sharpened to a very fine point, a hairs width line

and when dull, a thick line. Having to maintain an even line width

is impossible so I use a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil 95% of the time.

The rest of the time I use good quality Staedler HB pencils and a

high quality eraser and pencil sharpener. These are best obtained

from an artist supplies shop or equivalent mail order company. I also

find a common cereal bowl or dish comes in handy to put pencil

sharpening’s in.

RULERS

You will have to draw a grid, so at least a one metre stainless steel

ruler will be required, it will have to have at least one edge divided

into a usable set of units. I live in a country that uses the metric

system so I use a base system of either 10, 15, 20, or 25

millimetre squares when constructing my grid. I use three

sizes because some situations don’t require the use of a

large, unwieldy ruler, they are 300 mm, 600 mm and 1000

mm.

ACRYLIC PAINT

Buy the best paint you can afford, and if you are new to

painting keep it very simple with color selection. I could

mix every color with just 9 colors if they were the right

colors! The difficult part is finding out where the paints

hue lie on the color wheel in order to make the right choice. Paint manufacturers aren’t always the most helpful but I will use

Chromacolour, for the paintings in this tutorial. I would recommend as a minimum 8 colors - they are; Chroma White, Chroma

Black, Chroma Violet, Chroma Blue, Chroma Green, Chroma Yellow, Chroma Orange, Chroma Red, I would also advise buying

their brush cleaners.

I would highly recommend using the Chromacolour brand because it is far superior in its opacity and covering power which are

important when painting in very thin layers and it also changes very little from wet to dry (normally acrylic paints will dry about

5% darker). The paint dries to a smooth matt finish and performs very much like any other acrylic - just better!

In the past I have primarily used the Luiqitex brand and a little bit of others like Windsor & Newton. I can certainly recommend

these two brand’s if you can’t get the Chromacolour acrylic paint.

Russel - photorealist painting techniques (grid enlargement).pdf

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