7939_Dress_Instructi.pdf

PATTERN

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far

apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far

as necessary. Even out the side edges.

1 Front 1x

2 Front inset 2x

3 Back 2x

4 Back inset 2x

5 Back skirt panel 2x

6 Sleeves 2x

7 Front facing 1x

8 Back facing 2x

9 Belt right 1x

10 Belt left 1x

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: here is the center of a pattern piece

but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be cut

double, with the fold line forming the centre line.

Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the

cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on the fabric.

Paper cut for US Letter 8 1/2” X 11” or ANSI A (German

DIN A4) prints :

The patterns are printed out on 35 sheets with a thin frame.

Wait, until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so that

they fit together (see extra page with the overview of the

prints). Cut off the single sheets on the upper and right edge

along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and

then glue the parts in the frame lines together precisely.

Select your cut size according to the Burda size chart: Dresses,

blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers

and skirts according to the hip width. Change the patterns

about 2/5” (1 cm) if necessary, to fit your measurements if

they deviate from the Burda size chart.

The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the

pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the

right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing

and the pattern pieces are pinned to the left side. The pattern

pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram, extending over

the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from a single layer of

fabric.

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on

an average:

1 1/4” (3 cm) for the sleeve seam, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges

and seams. Use BURDA carbon paper to transfer all pattern

lines and markings to the left side of the fabric pieces. You

will find instructions in the packet.

Cut out the pattern according to your size.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If you

are taller or shorter, you may adjust the pattern to fit your size

at the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". Thus the fit is

preserved. Make sure that you adjust all pieces of one model

by the same amount at the same lines.

INSETS

Cut out the application according to drawing

and press it onto the left fabric side.

SEWING

When sewing, right sides of fabric should

be facing. Transfer all pattern lines to the

right side of the fabric.

DRESS

Front insets

1) Double stitch front piece at the bottom

edge with long stitches according to drawing.

Pull bottom thread according to the length of

the bottom edge of application (piece 2).

Knot threads. Space out the width steadily.

2) Pin front inset from side edge to front dart

onto the front piece and stitch (seam 1).

3) Stitch bottom edge of inset from side edge

towards the corner (seam 2) Cut corner of

front piece close to the stitch line (3a). Trim

allowances, neaten and press in towards the

inset.

4) Fold front piece, inside out. Baste dart and

baste front inset edge onto the front piece.

Cross lines meet. Stitch. Secure seam ends.

Trim allowances, neaten and press (4a).

Stitch edges narrowly, also stitch allowances.

Back pieces / dart

5) Baste and stitch darts. Press darts towards

back center.

Back inset

6) Baste back inset onto the back piece , right

sides facing (seam 3) and stitch. Cut off

allowances, neaten and press inside the inset.

Double stitch back skirt panels from * to the

side edges according to text and drawing 1.

7) Baste back skirt panel onto lower

application edge, right sides facing (seam 4)

and stitch. Cut off allowances, neaten and

press inside application. Stitch inset on top

and bottom narrowly, also, stitch the

allowances.

Center Back Seam / slit

8) Position back pieces, right sides facing,

baste center seam; cross seams meet. Stitch

center seam from the slit mark to the bottom.

Secure seam ends. Neaten allowances and

press. Open basting stitch along the slit.

Zipper

9) Baste zipper thus under the slit edges, that

the teeth are just covered. Stitch zipper with

the zipper foot.

Shoulder Seams

Lay front onto back piece, right sides facing.

Baste shoulder seams (seam 5) and hold back

shoulder edges. Stitch. Neaten and trim

allowances.

Neckline / Trimming

Position back facings onto the facings, right

sides touching, stitch shoulder seams (seam

6). Press allowances and neaten the inside of

trimming edges.

10) Position facing onto the neckline, right

sides facing, shoulder seams meet. Fold back

edges inwards. Stitch. Trim allowances, cut at

the curvatures. Cut front center close to the

stitches (arrow). Baste facing inwards, press.

Stitch facing onto the allowances of the

shoulder seams and the zipper tapes. Stitch

neckline narrowly (10a).

Belt

11) Fold belt ends lengthwise, right side

inwards. Baste edges onto each other

according to the drawing and stitch. Trim

allowances.

Cut corners diagonally. Turn belt ends. Pin

edges, press. Baste belt ends on top of

trimming onto the front (11a)

Side seams

Position front on top of back, right sides

facing. Baste side seams (seam 7). Cross

seams meet. Stitch. Neaten allowances and

press.

Sleeves

12) To bolster the sleeve circle stitch twice

from ● to ● using long stitches. Fold sleeves

lengthwise, inside out. Stitch sleeve seams

(seam 8). Trim allowances and press.

Sleeve seams

13) Fold and press seam inwards, fold once

more and baste. Stitch seam narrowly.

Attach sleeves

To strengthen the sleeve circle pull the

underthread of stitch seams slightly.

14) Pin sleeves onto the sleeve lines, right

sides facing. To apply the sleeves 4 points are

important to give a nice fit:

= The cross lines of sleeves and front piece

have to meet. Sleeve and side seams have to

meet. The cross lines of the sleeve circle have

to meet the shoulder seam. The width has to

be spaced out to prevent pleats. Baste the

sleeve on part of the sleeve side and stitch.

Trim allowances, neaten and press inside the

sleeves.

Stitch seam according to text and drawing 13.

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