Tunika(01)_instrukcja_EN.pdf

Burda "Easy fashion" E 971 Download Pattern

Tunic Dresses – Instructions

Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44

Length from waist:

A 59 cm (23 1 ⁄ 4 ins), B, D, E 47 cm

(18 1 ⁄ 2 ins), C 41 cm (16 1 ⁄ 4 ins)

A, B, C Pattern pieces 1 to 5

D Pattern pieces 1 to 4, 6 to11

E Pattern pieces 1 to 4

Size 34 222222

Size 36 333333

Size 38 444444

Size 40 555

Size 42 666666

Size 44 777777

Materials:

A, brown print tunic, on page 12

Silk batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide:

sizes 34, 36: 1.45 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 38:

1.50 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 40: 1.55 m

(1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 42: 1.60 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds),

size 44: 1.70 m (1 7 ⁄ 8 yds). 0.25 m

( 3 ⁄ 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm

(36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip, 40 cm

(16 ins) long and a special presser

foot. Elastic, about 7 mm ( 1 ⁄ 4 in) wide.

Sewing thread.

B, dress with large print ﬂowers, on

page 11

Batiste, 140 cm (55 ins) wide: with

large print: sizes 34, 36: 1.30 m

(1 1 ⁄ 2 yds), size 38: 1.35 m (1 5 ⁄ 8 yds), size

40: 1.40 m (1 5 ⁄ 8 yds), size 42: 1.50 m

(1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds),

with small print (contrasting fabric):

0.50 m ( 5 ⁄ 8 yd), for all sizes.

Interfacing and notions, see view A.

C, dotted tunic, on page 29

Satin with crosswise stretch, 145 cm

(57 ins) wide: size 34, 36: 1.40 m

(1 5 ⁄ 8 yds), size 38: 1.45 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size

40: 1.50 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 42: 1.55 m

(1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 44: 1.60 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds).

0.25 m ( 3 ⁄ 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon G 785,

90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invisible zip,

40 cm (16 ins) long and a special

presser foot. Elastic, 2 cm ( 3 ⁄ 4 in) wide:

sizes 34, 36: 0.80 m ( 7 ⁄ 8 yd), sizes 38,

40: 0.90 m (1 yd), sizes 42, 44: 1.00 m

(1 1 ⁄ 8 yds). 4 eyelets, inner Ø about

5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in). 4 cord end pieces.

Sewing thread.

(1 1 ⁄ 2 yds), size 40: 1.40 m (1 5 ⁄ 8 yds),

sizes 42, 44: 1.50 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds).

1 invisible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long

and a special presser foot. Sewing

thread.

Important: The pattern pieces do

not include seam and hem allow-

ances.

Cutting out:

The pattern layouts on page 2 show

how to arrange the pattern pieces

on the fabric. The grain arrow mark-

ed on the pattern pieces must run

parallel to the selvages of the fabric.

Recommended fabrics: Lightweight

dress fabrics with or without elastane.

Preparation:

The pattern pieces are printed on

24 sheets of paper each framed by a

thin line. Please wait until all sheets

have been printed. Arrange the

sheets correctly (see the extra sheet

with the overview of printed pages).

Cut each of the sheets along the

thin line at the upper edge and the

right edge, beginning with the

lower left sheet. Stick the pieces

together exactly on the thin lines.

Then cut out the pattern pieces. Fol-

low the different lines for the style

views A, B, C, D and E.

View D only: The tab markings on

pieces 2 and 4 are marked for size

34. Remark the lines accordingly for

the other sizes. The button markings

on piece 7 are for size 34. Remark

them accordingly for the other sizes:

mark the top pair the same distance

from upper edge as for size 34, the

bottom pair is in the same place for

all sizes, mark the other centred in

between.

Views A, B, C,:

1 front yoke on a fold

2 front on a fold

D, red ﬂowered dress, on page 14

Batiste, 150 cm (59 ins) wide: sizes

34, 36: 1.40 m (1 5 ⁄ 8 yds), sizes 38, 40:

1.45 m (1 3 ⁄ 4 yds), size 42, 44: 1.50 m

(1 3 ⁄ 4 yds). Seersucker with lengthwise

stripes (contrasting fabric) , 140 cm

(55 ins) wide: 0.60 m ( 3 ⁄ 4 yd) for all

sizes. 0.65 m ( 7 ⁄ 8 yd) Vilene/Pellon

G 785, 90 cm (36 ins) wide. 1 invi-

sible zip, 40 cm (16 ins) long and a

special presser foot. 16 buttons.

Sewing thread.

Note: To make up the ﬂowered

dress a lá Johanna (page 22), you

will also need cotton lace trim, 7 mm

( 1 ⁄ 4 in) wide: 1.20 m (1 3 ⁄ 8 yds).

3 back yoke

4 back

5 sleeve

View B only, contrasting fabric:

a) narrow band for front yoke join-

ing seam cut on bias grain, 45 cm

(17 3 ⁄ 4 ins) long, 2 cm ( 3 ⁄ 4 in) wide (incl.

seam allowances),

b) 2 bands for back yoke joining

seams cut on bias grain, each 25 cm

(10 ins) long, 2 cm ( 3 ⁄ 4 in) wide (incl.

seam allowances),

c) bias piping strip for neckline,

95 cm (37 1 ⁄ 2 ins) long altogether, 4 cm

(1 5 ⁄ 8 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances),

d) 2 bias binding strips for lower

sleeve edges, each 55 cm (21 3 ⁄ 4 ins)

long, 4 cm (1 5 ⁄ 8 ins) wide (incl. seam

allowances).

View C only:

e) 2 tie bands (back), each 70 cm

E, Metallic dress, on page 40

Metallic voile broderie anglaise,

135 cm (53 ins) wide: sizes 34, 36:

1.20 m (1 3 ⁄ 8 yds), size 38: 1.25 m

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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses

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Pattern layouts

A, Silk batiste,

140 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

B, Batiste,

140 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

B, Contrasting fabric,

140 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

C, Satin with crosswise

stretch, 145 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

D, Batiste, 150 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

E, Metallic voile, 135 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 40

sizes 42 and 44

D, Seersucker,

striped length-

wise,

140 cm wide,

sizes 34 to 44

Fold fabric as shown in the pattern layout, right side facing in.

(27 3 ⁄ 4 ins) long, 8 cm (3 1 ⁄ 4 ins) wide

(incl. seam allowances),

f) 2 tie bands (sleeves) each 70 cm

(27 3 ⁄ 4 ins) long, 3 cm (1 1 ⁄ 4 ins) wide

(incl. seam allowances).

the pattern layout also of inter-

facing on the same grain line as the

fabric pieces and with seam allow-

ances. Iron interfacing on the wrong

side of the outer yoke pieces.

marked yoke joining lines on the

front and back pieces from * to * .

Hold the bobbin threads and push

the edges of the fabric together

along the threads until they ﬁt the

respective yoke edges. Knot threads.

Distribute gathering evenly (1).

View D:

Batiste:

1 front yoke on a fold

Transfer pattern lines to the fabric:

Lay interfaced yoke pieces right

sides together with respective non-

interfaced pieces, pin on paper pat-

tern pieces again. Transfer pattern

piece outlines (seam and hem lines)

and all other pattern lines and mark-

ings except the grain line to the

wrong fabric side with a tracing

wheel and Burda tracing paper (see

instructions included with the pack).

Use basting thread to transfer abut-

ting lines and tab markings to right

side of fabric for view D: hand-baste

each fabric layer along these lines.

2. Stitch on outer yoke pieces

Pin the front interfaced yoke right

sides together with the upper front

edge, pin the back interfaced yoke

pieces right sides together with the

upper edge of the back pieces. Work

from the wrong side of the front

and the back to stitch exactly be-

2 front on a fold

3 back yoke

4 back

6 sleeve

9 pocket

Contrasting fabric:

7 front band x2

8 collar x4

9 pocket x2

10 tab (hem) x2

11 tab (sleeve) x2

g) 2 bias binding strips for pockets,

each 16 cm (6 3 ⁄ 8 ins) long, 4 cm

(1 5 ⁄ 8 ins) wide (incl. seam allowances).

View E:

1 front yoke on a fold x2

2 front on a fold x1

3 back yoke x4

4 back x2

h) 2 bias strips for armholes, each

23 cm (9 1 ⁄ 8 ins) long, 4 cm (1 5 ⁄ 8 ins)

wide (incl. seam allowances).

right

fabric side

wrong

fabric side

interfacing

Construction:

Place the right fabric sides together

to baste and stitch the seams. Secure

the start and end of the seams by

backstitching.

tween the lines of gathering (2).

Press the allowances onto the yokes.

Remove any gathering threads

which are visible on the right fabric

side of the garment .

Seam and hem allowances:

Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark

seam and hem allowances on the

fabric round the edges of the pat-

tern pieces: for views A, B, D and E

1.5 cm ( 5 ⁄ 8 in) at all seams and edges,

for view C 3 cm (1 1 ⁄ 4 ins) for hems,

2 cm ( 3 ⁄ 4 in) for sleeve hems, 1.5 cm

( 5 ⁄ 8 in) at all other seams and edges.

Cut the fabric pieces on these lines.

A, Brown print dress

1. Gathering

Stitch lines of machine basting (long-

est stitch setting) to each side of the

3. Invisible zip and centre back

seam

Neaten the allowances at the back

edges of the dress. Mark the end

of the slit by making small clips

into the allowances. Open the zip

and push the coil back with your

thumbnail to reveal the seam be-

tween the band and the coil. Place

the open zip right side facing down

Interfacing:

Cut out all pieces shaded grey on

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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses

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the shoulder seams. Stitch (7). Press

the seam allowances open.

5. Face edge of neckline

Lay the back non-interfaced yoke

pieces (= inside yoke pieces) right

sides together with the front non-

interfaced yoke (= inside yoke

piece), pin the shoulder seams.

6. Side seams:

Lay the front right sides together

with the back, pin the side seams.

Stitch. Press the seam allowances

open and neaten.

on the right back opening edge. The

distance between the band and the

fabric edge of the seam allowances

is 5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in) = seam allowance

width minus 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in) band width.

Pin the top end of the zip band in

place at the edge of the seam

allowance. Bottom end of zip will

overhang marked end of opening.

Place the presser foot on the zip so

that the coil is in the notch to the

right of the needle (3). Stitch the zip

in place from the top to the marked

end of the opening. Close the zip.

Place the other zip band face down

on the left back opening edge and

pin in place at the top (4). Open the

zip again. Place the presser foot on

the top end of the zip so that the

coil in in the notch to the left of the

needle (5). Sew the zip in place from

the top to end of opening, then

close the zip. Lay the back pieces

right sides together, pin the centre

7. Sleeves

To gather tops of sleeves, stitch

lines of machine basting (longest

stitch setting) to each side of the

marked seam line from • to • . Do

not pull the bobbin threads yet.

Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right

side facing in. Pin the sleeve

seams. Stitch (11). Press seam allow-

ances open and neaten. Neaten

allowance at lower edges of sleeves

and press to inside. Topstitch lower

edges of sleeves 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in) wide as

marked on the pattern for the elas-

tic casing. Cut two pieces of elastic

each 13 cm (5 1 ⁄ 4 ins) long and insert at

lower edges of sleeves (12), pin ends

Stitch (8). Press the seam allow-

ances open. Press the allowance at

the joining edge to the inside. Lay

the inside yoke right sides to-

gether with the outer yoke, pin

edges of neckline together. Fold

back edges of inside yoke outward

5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in) before opening

in place and stitch. Topstitch remain-

der of lower sleeve edges.

edges, pin in place on edge of

neckline. Fold allowances of dress

at opening edges outward and pin

in place on edge of neckline over

facing (9). Stitch along edge of

neckline. Trim seam allowances,

clip curves. Turn yoke and allow-

ances at opening edges to inside.

Pin yoke in place over joining

seams, turn in edge of yoke and

sew on along zip band. Baste

edges of armholes together (10).

Topstitch yoke close to edge of

neckline and joining seam. Top-

stitch yoke again 7 mm ( 1 ⁄ 4 in) wide.

8. Setting in sleeves

First pin sleeve just along edge of

underarm curve with right sides of

fabric facing. Match the sleeve and

side seams as well as markings 6 on

the sleeves and edges of armholes

(13). Then match the shoulder mark-

ing at the sleeve caps with the

shoulder seams and pin. Hold the

bobbin threads of the lines of

machine basting and push the fabric

of the sleeve cap together until it

back seam from the lower edges to

to the slit mark, turning the loose

lower end of the zip back toward

the seam allowance. Stitch the seam,

end stitching as close as possible to

the last stitch of the zip seams (6).

Press seam allowances open.

4. Shoulder seams

Lay the front piece right sides

together with the back pieces. Pin

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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses

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11. Double the yoke

Stitch the shoulder seams on the

non-interfaced yoke pieces (= inside

yoke pieces). Press the seam allow-

ances open. Press the allowance at

the joining edges to the inside. Lay

the inside yoke right sides together

with the outside yoke, pin the edges

of the neckline together and stitch

exactly in line of bias piping joining

seam. Trim the seam allowances

(16). Turn the yoke, baste the edges

so that the piping overlaps 5 mm

( 3 ⁄ 16 in) wide (see illustration 17).

Baste the inside yoke over the join-

ing seams, baste the armhole edge

13. Side seams

Lay the front right sides together

with the back, pin the side seams.

Stitch. Press seam the allowances

open and neaten.

ﬁts the edge of the armhole. Pin the

remainder of the sleeve cap in place

(14). Baste the sleeve from the

sleeve side. Try on the dress to check

the ﬁt of the sleeves. Stitch the

sleeves from the sleeve side, begin-

ning over the side seam. Stitch close

to the basting but not over the

basting otherwise it will be difficult

to remove the basting thread after

stitching. Neaten the seam allow-

ances and lay toward the sleeves.

14. Sleeves

To gather tops of sleeves, stitch

lines of machine basting (longest

stitch setting) to each side of the

marked seam line from • to • . Do

not pull the bobbin threads yet.

Cut off the allowances at the lower

edges of the sleeves. Pin the bias

binding strips (d) right sides

together with the lower edges of

the sleeves, stitch 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in) wide.

Press the seam allowances onto the

binding. Press the allowance at the

other long edge of the binding to

the inside (18). Fold the sleeve

lengthwise, right side facing in. Pin

sleeve seams, go on the pin ends of

binding together, unfolding pressed

edges of binding down again. Stitch

(19). Press seam allowances open

and neaten. Fold the binding half to

the inside and pin in place over the

joining seam. Work from the right

side of the sleeve to stitch close to

the edge of the binding between

the markings (20). Cut two pieces of

elastic each 13 cm (5 1 ⁄ 4 ins) long and

insert into binding, pin ends of elastic

9. Hem

Neaten the hem allowance, press to

the inside. Topstitch the edge of the

hem from the right fabric side 7 mm

( 1 ⁄ 4 in) wide.

B, Dress with large print ﬂowers

Construct dress as for view A, steps

1, 2 and 4 .

10. Piping, neckline

Fold the bias strip (c) for the piping

in half lengthwise, wrong side

facing in. Press. Pin bias strip right

sides together with edge of neckline

so that the open edges lie on the

seam allowance. Stitch 5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in)

next to fold edge (15).

and the back edges together. Top-

stitch close to edge of neckline.

12. Bands

Press the long edges of the bias

strips for the bands (a and b) 5 mm

( 3 ⁄ 16 in) wide to the wrong side – this

will be easy if you use a bias strip

shaping tool (Prym). Pin the bands

over the yoke joining seams. Stitch

the bands in place close to the

edges, catching the inside yoke (17).

Insert invisible zip and stitch centre

back seam as for view A, step 3,

leaving the top ends of the bands

overhanging the edge of the neck-

line.

Finally, fold the top ends of the zip

bands to the inside and sew in place.

in place and stitch. Topstitch close to

remaining edges of binding.

Finish construction of dress as for

view A, steps 8 and 9 .

C, Dotted dress

Construct dress as for view A, steps

1 to 6 but interupt stitching by 2 cm

( 3 ⁄ 4 in) in one side seam at the mark-

ed hem line to insert the elastic.

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Burda Download E 971, Instructions for Tunic Dresses

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15. Tie bands

Fold the fabric strips (e) in half

lengthwise with the right side of

the fabric facing in. Stitch 3 cm

(1 1 ⁄ 4 ins) next to the fold edge and

across one end each. Trim the

seam allowances, trim diagonally

at the corners (21). Turn the bands.

Press. Baste the open ends of the

bands each on the back armhole

edges below the yoke joining

seam.

the bands.

Set in the sleeves as for view A, step

17. Hem, elastic casing

Neaten the hem allowance, press to

the inside and topstitch 2.5 cm (1 in)

wide for the elastic casing. Use a

safety pin as a bodkin to insert the

elastic through the opening in the

side seam into the edges of the hem.

Sew the ends of the elastic together.

the edge of the binding in and pin

in place over the joining seam. Work

from the right fabric side of the

pocket to stitch in line of binding

joining seam, catching inside half.

Pin the pockets on the front at the

placement lines and stitch in place

5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in) wide.

D, Red ﬂowered dress

Construct dress as for view A, steps

1 and 2 but when gathering the

front the leave the edge between

the marked band placement lines

ungathered.

Insert invisible zip and stitch centre

back seam as for view A, steps 3 and

20. Collar

Lay the interfaced collar pieces (=

undercollar pieces) right sides

together with the non-interfaced

collar pieces. Pin the edges together

and stitch, leaving the joining edges

open. Trim the seam allowances, clip

along the curves (29). Turn the collar

pieces. Press. Baste the joining edges

of the collar together.

16. Sleeves

To gather tops of sleeves, stitch

lines of machine basting (longest

stitch setting) to each side of the

marked seam line from • to • . Do

not pull the bobbin threads yet.

Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right

side facing in. Pin the sleeve

seams. Stitch. Press the seam allow-

ances open and neaten.

Attach the eyelets on the lower

edges of the sleeves as marked on

the pattern, catching in small bits of

interfaced fabric on the wrong side

for reinforcement.

Neaten the allowance the lower

edge of the sleeve and press to in-

side but do not yet stitch.

Fold the bands (f) in half lengthwise,

right side facing in. Stitch 7 mm

( 1 ⁄ 4 in) next to fold edge. Leave a

length of thread hanging. Insert

thread into a darning needle and

knot securely (22). Push the needle

eye ﬁrst through the fabric tube

(23). Lay bands inside hem allow-

ances, pass the ends out through the

eyelets. Topstitch the lower edges of

the sleeves 1.5 cm ( 5 ⁄ 8 in) wide, catch-

ing the hem allowances (24).

Slip the cord end pieces over the

ends of the bands. Knot the ends of

18. Front band

Stitch the band pieces right sides

together, leaving the upper edge

open. Trim the seam allowances

(25). Turn the band. Press. Pin the

band on the front and the front

yoke at the placement lines. Stitch

the band in place

5 mm ( 3 ⁄ 16 in) next to

edges (26).

19. Pockets

Stitch two pocket

pieces each (of fabric

and contrasting fabric)

right sides together,

leaving the upper

edges open. Trim the

seam allowances, clip

the allowances along

the curves (27). Turn

the pockets. Press. Trim

For the ﬂowered dress a lá Johanna,

pin lace trim on along the outer

edges of the collar pieces (on the

top collar piece). Stitch the trim in

place close to the edge.

Pin the collar pieces to the edge of

the neckline with the undercollar

underneath. The front edges of the

collar meet in centre front, the back

edges of the collar meet over the

teeth of the zip (30).

Face the edges of the neckline and

stitch the side seams as for view A,

steps 5 and 6. Topstitch the yoke just

once close to the joining seams.

off the allowance at the upper edge.

Pin the bias binding strips right sides

together with the upper edges of

the pockets and stitch 1 cm ( 3 ⁄ 8 in)

wide. Press the binding strips up. Lay

the ends of the binding strips

around the edges of the pockets

to the inside (28). Now lay the bind-

ing around the upper edges, turn

page 5 of 6

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