kasia_original.pdf

Kasia

By: BurdaStyle

http://www.burdastyle.com/projects/kasia

The design for this playful skirt came from our very own kasia26! Great for summer fun, this skirt

features gathering of the pocket backing and bold bib-front buttons. Try using a contrast for the

pocket backing for some extra punch.

Materials

Stretch twill, buttons, zipper, interfacing.

Step 1

1 Front skirt panel 1x

2 Lining for pocket pouch 1x

3 Front yoke 2x

4 Inner front skirt panel 2x

5 Front hip yoke 2x

6 Front center yoke 4x

7 Front side yoke 4x

8 Back skirt panel 2x

9 Back hip yoke 2x

10 Back center yoke 2x

11 Back side yoke 4x

Fabrics: Gabardine, twill, light jeans fabric

Step 2

The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints: The patterns are printed out on 18 sheets with a thin frame. Wait, until all sheets are

printed out. Arrange the sheets so that they fit together (see extra page with the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the

upper and right edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely.

Step 3

ADJUSTING PATTERN SIZES

Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table: Dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust size, trousers

and skirts according to the hip width. If necessary, change the pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the

Burda-dimension table. Size 4 to 14 (EU 36 to EU 46) The button holes of piece 1 and 3 are marked according to size 2 (EU 34).

For the bigger sizes, mark the buttonhole and stitch lines the same length to the front center as size 2 (EU 34). Cut out the pattern

according to your size (a).

Refer to our â“Adjust patterns for mixed sizesâ“ technique

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN PIECES ACCORDING TO YOUR SIZE Our pattern is calculated for a height of

5â“ 6â“ (168 cm). If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces along the lines marked “lengthen or shorten here”.

Thus the proper fit is preserved. Always adjust all pattern pieces along the same line the same degree (b).

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces: Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines.

To lengthen, slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far apart as necessary.

To shorten, overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as far as necessary. Even out the side edges ©.

Step 4

CUTTING OUT FOLD (â“ â“ â“ â“) means: here is the center of a pattern piece but never a cut edge or a seam. The piece should be

cut double, with the fold line forming the centre line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to

be placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces should be placed on the

fabric (a).

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on the fabric For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to the

right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side. The pattern

pieces that are shown in the cutting diagram, extending over the fold of the fabric, should be cut last from a single layer of fabric (b).

Step 5

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an average: 5/8â“ (1.5 cm) for all edges and stitches. Using BURDA copying

paper, transfer the lines and signs of the pattern onto the wrong fabric side. You will find instructions in the packaging.

Interfacing Cut out the interfacing according to the drawing and press it onto the wrong fabric side.

Sewing

While sewing the right fabric sides are facing. Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right fabric side using basting stitches

Step 6

Hip yoke pockets

Pin the lining pocket pouch onto the front skirt panel, the right sides are facing. Stitch along the pocket openings (seam 1). Trim

allowances, and snip in the curves (a).

Fold the lining pocket pouch inside out. Baste the pocket openings, press and topstitch narrowly (b).

Double stitch the front hip yokes from * to *, using basting stitches. Hold the bobbin thread and gather the fabric until the hip yoke

edge fits the round edge of the inner skirt panel. Knot the basting threads and distribute the gathers equally ©.

Pin the front hip yoke onto the curved edge of the inner front skirt panel (seam 2), right sides facing. Stitch. Trim allowances, snip in

where necessary. Neaten the allowances, and press towards the skirt panel (d).

Step 7

Position the inner front skirt panels on top of each other, right sides facing. Baste the center seam from top to bottom. Then stitch

the seam from the slit sign to the bottom. Secure seam ends by stitching back and forth. Neaten the allowances, and press apart.

Keep the slit basted (a).

Position the front skirt panel onto the inner front skirt panel, the pocket openings meet the lines marked on the front hip yokes. Pin

the pocket openings, thereby pinning the upper edges on top of each other (b).

Pin the bottom edge of the lining pocket pouch onto the bottom edge of the inner skirt panel, and stitch, not including the outer front

skirt panel. Neaten the allowances ©. Additionally, stitch the pocket pouches along the vertical stitch lines, from the cross line to the

bottom, on top of each other (arrows) (d). Further, baste the side edges of the pocket pouches onto the skirt panels. Remove the

pins from the top edge. Open the basting stitches from the slit (inner skirt panel).

Step 8

Back skirt panels

Position the back skirt panels on top of each other, right sides facing; baste the center seam from top to bottom. Stitch along the

seam line to the slit (arrow). Secure seam ends. Keep the slit basted. Neaten the allowances, and press apart. Open the basting

stitches along the slit. Double baste stitch the back hip yokes and attach to the back skirt panel (seam 30) (a).

Yokes

Position the interfaced center and side yokes 9 pieces 6 and 7) on top of each other, right sides facing. Pin the front princess seams,

and stitch (seam 4). Trim the allowances, and press apart. Stitch the interfaced center and side back yokes (pieces 10 and 11)

together (seam 5) (b).

Fold the slit allowances of the center toward the right side of the skirt. Pin the front yokes onto the top edges of the inner skirt panels

and of the hip yokes (seam 6); the princess seams meet the marked lines of the pocket. Stitch. Trim allowances and press inside the

yokes. Stitch the back yoke onto the top edge of the back skirt panel (seam 7), the center parts are facing and the princess seams

Step 9

Zipper / inner front skirt panel

Fold the allowances along the slit edges inside. Position and pin the zipper under the slit in such a way that the little zipper teeth are

covered. Stitch the zipper using the zipper foot (a).

Front yoke / outer front skirt panel

Pin the interfaced front yoke (piece 3) onto the top edge of the outer front skirt panel (seam 8), right sides facing. Stitch. Trim the

allowances and press inside the yoke (b).

Fold inside and press the allowance of the bottom edge along the interfaced front yoke. Position the yoke onto the yoke that is

already stitched, right sides facing. Stitch the side and top yoke edges on top of each other. Trim the allowances, and cut the

Fold the yoke inside, baste the edges and press. Pin the bottom yoke edge onto the marked line. Stitch the yoke all around, thereby

enclosing the bottom yoke edge (d).

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