Tutorial - Miniature Dipping.pdf

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Miniature Dipping - the art of painting
a lot of miniatures to an acceptable
level in very little time. You hear people
say dipping all the time. "Yeah, I dip my
minis."
What does dipping mean?
Is it for you?
I am going to run you through the
entire process. I need to paint up one
of my Liliths for the CMON painting
contest. Since I am no master painter,
dipping is the way to go for me.
Dipping refers to painting a miniature
to an acceptable level with minimal
highlights, mostly block painting and
then dipping the entire miniature into
a translucent dark solution.
In our case, we will use Minwax
Polyshades "tudor" polyurethane
stain.
There are tons of similar products out there: magic wash, magic ink, wonder wash, etc. They all
do the same thing, but I like Minwax Polyshades because it adds extra protection to my miniatures.
Plus, one can will last you for a lonnnnnnnng time.
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Optional alternate dipping solution: Our very own Punkrabbitt has his own special "secret sauce"
that he likes to use as his dip.
Ingredients:
1 oz. Higgins Black India Ink
1 oz. Higgins Brown Ink
5 oz. Future Floor Finish
2 oz. Distilled Water
16 oz. Container with watertight lid, the wider the better
Higgins Ink in both colors can be found at most art supplies stores. The other ingredients can
be found at any grocery store. Combine all liquid ingredients in the container, in the following
order: 5 oz. Future Floor Finish, 1 oz. Higgins Black Ink, 1 oz. Higgins Brown Ink, and 2 oz.
Distilled Water. Mix thoroughly.
Why dip your miniatures? Different people do it for different reasons. For me, I use a lot of miniatures
for demos, so dipping works for me. First, it provides me with a fast and easy method to paint up
many miniatures in a short amount of time. I can do a production line of say 8-10 miniatures and just
block paint them one color at a time. By the time I finish with a color on the last miniature, the first one
is already dry. You can also do a little dry brushing if you like, but I find it unnecessary. My miniatures
see a lot of use during demos with a lot of handling; having a coat of polyurethane on them makes
them nigh indestructible.
1) First, just like painting any miniature
you have to clean up the mold lines.
This miniature had hardly any, so that
took no time at all. Many top painters
consider this the most important part of
the entire painting process. If you are
careless with the preparation, it is a lot
harder to fix once you got paint on the
miniature. You have to start with a solid
foundation if you want a masterpiece.
This is especially important if you are
dipping. As this process is all about the
polyurethane pooling at all the nooks and
crannies. If you have a mold line, the
polyurethane will pool there for sure.
Then assemble the miniature.
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Step 1
2) Prime the miniature. Some painters prime
in white, some in black. There are hundreds
of threads on CMON and other forums each
claiming one or the other is better. For me,
white is the way to go because I am going to
dip them in a dark wash at the end anyway.
White allows me to do one, maybe two coats
of a color and I am done. For these miniatures,
I’m not really worried about shades and
highlights.
3) Now it is just a matter of selecting the colors
that you want on the miniature and block paint
it. Just like you used to do when you were a kid
doing coloring books, paint within the lines. Or,
not so much. Don’t worry about tiny mistakes.
When you dip the miniature in the polyurethane,
most of the borders or depressions will have the
polyurethane in it.
Dipping will alter the shades depending on the
color dip used, the exact choice of colors is a
matter of experimentation. Generally, however,
you can expect colors to deepen and darken
with dipping. Chose colors that are your
intended highlight shade, knowing the dip with
create all the depth and shadow from there.
Step 2
Step 3
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4) Now let the miniature dry completely, if not the next step might rub off some of the paint and we
don't want that.
5) Dip the entire miniature into the can of polyurethane. Try to keep the base out of it. Then use
small strips of paper towel to soak up excess pooling, so they look like shadows and not like a
glob. You might want to go back for a second pass if you are working on a big miniature as it might
take some time for the polyurethane to work its way down the miniature.
6) Then just let it dry, completely. It will take a while. Don't rush this part because you don't want to do
base work and have all your sand stick on the miniature or its game over.
7) Finishing touches. Finish the detail work like painting the eyes, touch ups, and you are almost
done. Some painters, like Punkrabbit, on the other hand like do highlights after dipping to brighten
the miniature back up. Its just a case of different strokes for different folks. Nothing wrong either
way. Once complete base the miniature to match your army’s theme.
Step 5
Step 7
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8) You now have a super glossy miniature. Give it a couple of passes of Dullcote and you are
done!
With the exception of the polyurethane drying time, this miniature took me less than an hour
to paint. Not exactly going to win any painting competition, but it gives you a way to paint all
your miniatures to an acceptable level for gaming, fast, painless and protected.
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