Electroplating 101.pdf

INTRODUCTION

THE PRINCIPALS OF PLATING

SAFETY PROCEDURES

SETTING UP A WORKSHOP

AVOIDING TRAPPED GASSES ON WORKPIECE

HEATING THE PLATING SOLUTIONS

THE POWER SOURCE

WIRING UP THE PARTS

REPAIRING PITTED METALS

CASTING A NEW PART

BUFFING AND POLISHING

PREPARING YOUR SOLUTIONS

INTRODUCTION TO PLATING PROCEDURES

METALS CHART

BRIGHT ACID TIN PLATING PROCESS

REGULAR NICKEL & COPY CHROME PLATING PROCESS

NICKEL & COPY CHROME PLATING TROUBLESHOOTING

ELECTROLESS NICKEL & KROME PLATING

ZINCATE INSTRUCTIONS

STAINLESS STEEL ACTIVATOR

FLASH COPPER PLATING

BRIGHT ACID COPPER PLATING

COPPER PLATING TROUBLESHOOTING

PLATING PLASTICS & NON CONDUCTIVE MATERIALS

BRONZING BABY SHOES

PLATING GLASS TABLEWARE

GOLD & & SILVERING GLASS

CHROME PLATING

OPERATING THE NEW DECORATIVE CHROME SYSTEM

GENERAL HARD CHROME PLATING INSTRUCTIONS

DEVELOPMENT OF HARD CHROME SOLUTION

THE PRINCIPLES OF HARD CHROME PLATING

PREPARING HARD CHROME SOLUTION

HARD CHROME PLATING THE USE OF CONFORMING SHAPED ANODES

HARD CHROME PLATING MILLING CUTTERS, DRILLS & FLAT PLATES

HARD CHROME PLATING PLATING MULTIPLE PARTS

100

HARD CHROME PLATING MULTIPLE PARTS NON CRITICAL DIMENSIONS

101

HARD CHROME PLATING MULTIPLE PARTS TO CRITICAL DIMENSIONS

105

HARD CHROME PLATING INSIDE DIAMETER PLATING

107

HARD CHROME PLATING DEPOSIT LOCATION CONTROL

110

HARD CHROME PLATING FINISHING

116

INTERRUPTED CHROME PLATING CYCLES

117

PROCEDURE FOR THE REMOVAL OF CHROME PLATE

118

CHROME PLATING TROUBLESHOOTING

120

ANODIZING ALUMINUM

121

BRUSH PLATING WITH PLUGNPLATE

136

GOLD EMBLEM PLATING USING PLUGNPLATE

138

DIP PLATING WITH PLUGNPLATE

140

RUB ON SILVER PLATING

141

SILVER PLATING KITS

142

24 CT GOLD TANK PLATING

143

FASTGOLD

145

BLACK OXIDIZING OF STEEL

146

COPY CAD & ZINC PLATING INSTRUCTIONS

148

CHROMATE PROCESSES

154

ZINC & COPY CAD BLACKENER

155

ANODIZE & CHROME STRIPPER

156

ANTIQUING OXIDIZERS

158

PLATING LEAD, PEWTER AND STAINED GLASS OBJECTS

159

BRASS TANK PLATING

160

MANUFACTURING GUILDING FOILS

161

WASTE DISPOSAL & EMMISSIONS

162

PROBLEM RESOLUTION SYSTEM

169

Setting up your plating workshop

Setting up a Workshop

Although we have shown a complete workshop here, it is NOT necessary to go to these lengths, you can plate from

one tank at a time quite easily!

Here is an example of a neat setup, where the entire

operation has been enclosed in a home made cabinet. The

top has an exhaust system build in, and there are even

glass doors to enclose the operation. Note how the tanks

are sunk into the worksurface.

Top left hand shows a power supply, which is connected to

the bus bars running along the back of the unit. Operating

notes/reminders are pinned on the back wall.

Tank heaters are located on the left and right sides when

not in use.

As you will be using acids, alkalis, water etc. and doing surface preparation to various metals with grinding and

polishing tools, you will be making some mess and a few smells. We recommend you find a place where you can set

up that has a good concrete floor, preferably painted with an epoxy, has some cross ventilation and running water.

The kitchen is NOT a good idea!

Plenty of workbench area is a must. You might have up to 4 plating tanks set up at any one time, and will need more

space to lay objects out etc.

Set your workbench next to a sink if possible, and tilt the bench so it drains into the sink. Minor spills can be flushed

away easily. Some of our customers have purchased 'seconds' kitchen work tops as benches. They have even cut

holes in them to recess the tanks.

Find a free area for your buffing equipment. This needs to be away from the plating tanks, as the dust and small

metals particles dispelled into the air, can settle in the tanks and spoil your solutions. Your buffing machine can be

mounted on the edge of a bench with one wheel hanging over the side. This allows the part, if caught, to drop fairly

harmlessly we hope, to the floor. Alternatively, you could construct a pole stand and mount the motor on that.

You will need some

good lighting for the

workshop, as you

will need to inspect

your work

thoroughly. The area

should be heated to

about 68-72 deg. F.

Setting up your plating workshop

Setting Up A Workbench

Depending on the size of your kit, you need to make a suitable workbench. Ideally, it will be close to a sink and a

water supply, and the surface could even be tilted to drain into the sink.

A framework of 2" x 4" timbers, is ideal for most triple chrome plating operations. The 2 & 4 gallon setups could be

set at your waist height, but larger tanks would need to lower to make it easier to lift the heavier parts in and out of

the tanks.

Customers may install a plywood or Formica type surface. Do not use particle board as the liquids will disintegrate

it very rapidly.

The air pump and gang valve are installed on the pegboard (top left) Bus Bars are attached to the pegboard by

drilling and bolting. Note:- two bus bars running across pegboard.

The actual work surface should be strong enough to withstand weights of 200 lbs+(16 gallon kits contain about 150

lbs per tank, so build a STRONG framework and place these tanks on top of the work surface). Do not cut the holes

too close to the edges of the board. The plating tanks should fit snugly into the cut hole, resting on the lip around

the edge. Ensure the fit if fairly tight.

Additional tanks may be stored on the lower shelf

Storing the chemicals when not in use

None of our chemicals are damaged by freezing, however if the tanks freeze they may crack open, and give you a

real mess to clear up when they thaw. So we suggest you store them in a heated area. Ensure the lids are secure on

each tank and mark the tank with an indelible marker, denoting the contents.

If you intend storing the chromic acid from the chrome plating tank, for a long period, say 2 years or more, we

suggest you transfer the product to a glass container. This acid will very slowly attack the plastic tank, and may

cause you an unpleasant clean up job.

Making a fume hood

For the occasional plater, a fume hood may be an extravagance, and the

problems of occasional fumes can be dealt with by simply opening a

window and placing a fan by the offending tank, or simply wearing a

respirator with acid gas cartridges.

There are a number of options for a fume hood. Normally, hoods will

not be necessary for nickel and copper plating, as the fumes generated

are very minimal from these processes, but from the De-greasing, De-

plating and Chrome plating tanks some sort of control is almost vital.

A simple hood can be made from plywood, and coated with a

bituminous or epoxy paint. Or the use of a range hood from a cooking

stove could be a 'ready made' solution. The fan motors in these will

usually not last too long, as the acid fumes will attack the windings. The

best arrangement is to rig up a simple ventura blower, using an air line

or a vacuum cleaner exhaust, as pictured above.

Set the hood about 1 foot above the tanks. You can usually get two of

our tanks under a range hood. We don't envisage you having many more than 2 tanks running at any one time, so

there is no need to make a huge contraption.

Setting up your plating workshop

Make a hole through to an outside wall, or place your exhaust pipe through a window.

Using some 4" plastic pipe make up an arrangement as shown in the diagram.

Make a hole in the bend of the pipe large enough for you to insert your air line or vacuum exhaust pipe.

When the air line/vacuum is switched on the

force caused by the ventura principal will suck

all the fumes out through the larger pipe. There

are no moving parts and the system is therefore

fairly foolproof!

Air Scrubber Unit

See the section on Zero Emissions

You may also consider constructing a simple

'scrubber unit' to clean the air from your fume

hood. Depending on the size of your operation,

you can make this set up from something as

small as a 5 gal pail to a 55 gal plastic drum

You will need a small water pump, preferably with an all plastic housing and impeller. The pump is there to

circulate water around the tank. As the water is introduced back into the tank it must be made to spray out in all

directions as a fine mist. It is this curtain of mist that traps airborne particles of acid, ' scrubbing' the air clean as it

passes through the curtain.

The acid is contained in the body of water at the bottom of the tank. Very occasionally, you will need to remove this

water, evaporate it down by placing our heaters in it, and saving the sludge or concentrate in a small plastic

container. You may them dispose of this at your local transfer station. Even a busy shop may not have to do this

more than once every year or so. Remember to top up the water level periodically, as it will evaporate off fairly

quickly. Adding a couple of boxes of Baking Soda to the water will neutralize the acid as it enters the system.

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