Nalbinding OsloPrimer.pdf

Basic Nålbinding part 1: Oslo Stitch (F1 UO/UOO)

taught by Gudrun Ottosdottir at University of Atlantia

Before you start you need to know...

• Nalbiding is always worked left to right.

• Every nalbinding project begins with the same basic pretzel-shaped loops as described in Steps 1-3.

• Be aware that the first few stitches are always the hardest since it’s easy for them to lose their shape and get tangled!

So I suggest you work with a firm bulky yarn that holds its shape and forms nice, round loops. You can also use cotton

or hemp twine if you find it easier to work with.

• In my directions below your left hand should always be positioned with the nail facing you and the thumb pad

away from you. I will refer to the pad side as the “back” of the thumb and the nail side as the “front”.

Step 1: Working in a clockwise direction, make a single loop like this with

the crossing point at 12 o’clock.

Note: Since nalbinding is worked left to right the “tail end” will always be

on the left and your “running thread” will always be on the right.

Step 2: Make a second interconnected loop by putting your needle through

the front of the first loop and over the running thread so it ends up looking

like an upside-down pretzel. These first 2 loops can be worked on a flat

surface if that’s easiest for you.

Step 3: Making sure you keep your “pretzel” intact, slip the tip of your left

thumb into the 2 nd loop and make sure the running thread lies over the top of

your left thumb so it’s towards you. Hold your left thumb so the nail-side is in

front.

Note: As you work, your running thread should always be run over the top

of your left thumb coming towards you.

Step 4: This is the beginning of the “Oslo” stitch. With the 2 nd loop on the

tip of your left thumb, the 1 st loop on the pad of your thumb, take your needle

and pick up the 1 st loop off the pad of your thumb with the tip of your needle.

Rotate your needle counterclockwise about 45 ° so you can go down and pick

up the 2 nd loop and the running thread from the front of your thumb. The

arrow shows the path your needle will follow.

Step 5: Once you have the 1 st loop , 2 nd loop and running thread on the tip of

your needle, pass the needle and running thread all the way through all the loops

(see red arrow). As you’re pulling the running thread through, remove your thumb

from the 2 nd loop and stick your thumb into the new loop being

formed by the running thread.

Note: Every time you create a new loop you will need to stick

your thumb into it. So be careful not to pull your running

thread so fast or tight that you make a knot instead of a

new loop on your thumb!

Step 6: With the new loop around your left thumb tip, repeat steps

4-5 to make more loops and make a nice long chain! Always keep

your chain positioned so it’s running off the back of your left

thumb—when you get enough loops formed you can gently hold your

chain in your left hand as you work. Continue to work until you have

30-40 loops and then your will learn how to connect the two ends of

your chain to form a circle so you can being making a sock, mitten or cap!

be sold or distributed without express permission from the author (monica@dilettante.info). Download the PDF from http://www.dilettante.info.

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Basic Nålbinding part 2: Make a tube by connecting to the previous row with a

“F1” join

In order to join to the previous row to form your chain into a tube, you need to connect each new loop to the top edge of

the previous row—just like in knitting and crochet.

The vast majority of nalbound articles are created “in the round” instead of “in the flat” like knitting and crochet. With

knitting and crochet you can work back and forth to create flat squares with firm and even side edges (like a scarf or

shawl). Nalbinding is not as well suited to being worked back and forth and instead works best when the two ends are

joined to form a tube or circle which you then build up round by round to make a sock or mitten or cap.

Step 1 : After creating 30-40 Oslo stitches your chain should be running off the back of your left thumb and held gently in

your left palm. Make sure the chain is flat and not twisted like a corkscrew —if the chain is twisted when you attach

the two ends together you will end up with a Möbius strip instead of a proper tube!

Step 2 : Holding your left hand in the normal working

position, reach your right hand over your left hand to grasp the

tail end of your chain (which is running off to the left). Take

the chain and form a clockwise loop with the chain so the tail

end meets the working end on the back of your thumb. This is

the beginning of our tube.

Step 3: Hold the two ends gently together with your left thumb

and index finger—the tail end is now to the right of the working

end. Pick up a loop from the previous row by inserted your needle

through the front of the loop.

Note: Inserting the

needle through the front

of one loop is an “F1”

join. Inserting the needle

through the back of one

loop is a “B1” join.

Inserting the needle

through the front of 2

loops is an “F2” join;

through the back of 2

loops is a “B2” join, etc...

Step 4: Next pick up the 1 st loop on the back of your thumb and

make an Oslo stitch.

Step 5: Repeat steps 3-4 as many times as you like so you can

perfect your technique!

be sold or distributed without express permission from the author (monica@dilettante.info). Download the PDF from http://www.dilettante.info.

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