Tuniki 2 - opis.pdf

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E 957 DL-Tuniken EN
burda “easy fashion” E 957 Download patterns
Tunics – Instructions
Burda sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Length from waist:
A, B: 31 cm (12 1 4 "); C, D: 44 cm (17 1 4 ")
A, C, D: pattern pieces 1 to 5.
B: pattern pieces 1 to 6
Size 34 222222
Size 36 333333
Size 38 444444
Size 40 555
Size 42 666666
Size 44 777777
Materials:
A, Print tunic from page 10
Crepe chiffon, 135 cm (53") wide:
Sizes 34, 36, 38: 2.35 m (2 5 8 yds);
size 40: 2.40 m (2 5 8 yds); size 42: 2.45 m
(2 3 4 yds); size 44: 2.50 m (2 3 4 yds).
0.30 m (12") Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm
(36") wide. Elastic, approx. 5 mm ( 3 8 ")
wide. Sewing thread.
A
B, Plaid tunic from page 22
Tartan plaid, 140 cm (55") wide:
2.10 m (2 3 8 yds) for all sizes.
Contrasting fabric, 140 cm (55")
wide: 0.45 m ( 1 2 yd).
0.40 m (16") Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm
(36") wide. 6 buttons. Sewing thread.
B
C, Golden tunic from page 29
Fine lamé knit, 150 cm (59") wide:
Sizes 34, 36: 2.40 m (2 5 8 yds); sizes 38,
40: 2.45 m (2 3 4 yds); size 42, 44: 2.50 m
(2 3 4 yds).
Notions as for view A, plus twin needle.
C
Recommended fabrics: Lightweight
dress fabrics.
Paper pattern:
The pattern pieces are printed on 32
sheets, each framed by a thin line.
Wait until all of the sheets have
been printed. Lay the sheets in the
correct positions (see extra sheet
with the overview of the printed
sheets). Cut each sheet along the
thin lines at the top and right edges.
Begin with the lower left sheet and
glue all sheets together, exactly on
the thin lines Now cut out the pat-
tern pieces. Note the varying lines
for views A, B, C, and D.
D, Purple tunic from page 38
Satin, 140 cm (55") wide:
Sizes 34, 36, 38: 2.25 m (2 1 2 yds),
sizes 40, 42, 44: 2.30 m (2 5 8 yds).
Matelassé (edging), 140 cm (55") wide:
0.60 m (24") for all sizes.
0.30 m (12") Vilene/Pellon G 785, 90 cm
(36") wide. Sewing thread.
D
Cutting layouts
A, crepe chiffon,
135 cm wide
Sizes 34 to 44
C, fine lamé knit, 150 cm wide,
Sizes 34 to 40
Important: Seam and hem allowances
are not included on pattern pieces
B, tartan plaid, 140 cm wide
Sizes 34 to 44
Sizes 42 and 44
Cutting:
The cutting layouts, left, show how
pattern pieces should be laid on the
fabric. Make sure that straight grain
lines marked on pattern pieces lie
parallel to selvages or fabric folds.
For view B, fold fabric so that the
fold lies exactly between two plaid
unit or exactly in the center of one
plaid unit.
front, back, and band pieces which
are shown in the cutting layout as
being cut from a single layer of
fabric will be easier to cut out if you
trace each of these pieces 2x and
glue the 2 pieces together, along the
center lines.
B, contrast fabric,
140 cm wide,
Sizes 34 to 44
D, satin,
140 cm wide,
Sizes 34 to 44
Tunic A, C, D:
1 Front, on fold
1x
For a double layer of fabric, the right
side is facing in. For a single layer of
fabric, the right side is facing up.
Tunic B: Pay attention to plaid.
2 Back, on fold
1x
3 Sleeve
2x
4 Front band, on fold
2x
5 Back band, on fold
2x
© Copyright 2007 by Verlag Aenne Burda
S. 1 v. 3
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burda Download E 957, Anleitung Tuniken
S. 2 v. 3
For view A only:
a) 4 bands (ties), each 60 cm (24")
long, 6 cm (2 1 2 ") wide (incl. allowances),
b) 2 bias strips for sleeve ties, each
70 cm (28") long, 4 cm (1 5 8 ") wide
(incl. allowances).
For view D only, contrasting fabric:
strips for hem edging, for
size 34, total of 5.65 m (6 1 4 yds),
size 36, total of 5.70 m (6 1 4 yds),
size 38, total of 5.85 m (6 1 2 yds),
size 40, total of 6.00 m (6 5 8 yds),
size 42, total of 6.10 m (6 3 4 yds),
size 44, total of 6.25 m (6 7 8 yds) long,
6.5 cm (2 5 8 ") wide (incl. allowances),
d) 2 strips for sleeve edging, for
size 34: 1.65 m (65"); size 36: 1.70 m
(67"); sizes 38, 40: 1.75 m (69"); sizes
42, 44: 1.80 m (71") long, 4.5 cm
(1 7 8 ") wide (incl. allowances).
Tunic B:
Tartan plaid:
1 Front, on fold
Sewing:
4. Facing neck edges:
Lay front band piece with no inter-
facing on back band piece with no
interfacing (inner band pieces), right
sides facing. Pin shoulder edges
together. Stitch shoulder seams.
Press seams open. Press allowance
on lower edge of this band unit to
wrong side. Lay inner band unit on
outer band (attached to tunic), right
sides facing. Pin together along neck
edge, matching shoulder seams and
seam lines. Stitch. Trim seam allow-
ances and clip allowances on curves
(4). Turn inner band to inside. Baste
the neck edge and press. Pin lower
edge of inner band to attachment
seam of outer band and sew in place
by hand.
right
fabric side
wrong
fabric side
interfacing
When basting and stitching, the
right fabric sides should be facing.
Tie-off beginnings and ends of
seams with backstitching.
A, Print tunic
1. Gathering neck edges:
On the front and back pieces, machine
baste (= longest stitch setting) close
to both sides of the marked seam
line, from * to *. Hold the bobbin
threads of the machine basting and
slide the fabric together along these
threads until each neck edge matches
the edge of the corresponding band
piece. Knot the gathering threads to
secure the gathering. Distribute the
gathering evenly (1).
4
1x
2 Back, on fold
1x
3 Sleeve
2x
Contrasting fabric:
4 Front band, on fold
5 Back band, on fold
2x
1
6 Cuff
4x
Seam and hem allowances:
Use a ruler and tailor's chalk to mark
the following seam and hem allow-
ances on the fabric, around each
pattern piece: 3 cm (1 1 4 ") for hems;
for views A, C, D, 2.5 cm (1") for
sleeve hems, and for views A, B, C,
D, 1.5 cm ( 5 8 ") on all other seams and
edges. Cut out fabric pieces along
these marked lines.
5
2
3
Interfacing:
All pieces which are shaded gray in
the cutting layout should be cut
from interfacing, on the same grain
of the fabric as the corresponding
fabric piece. Seam allowances must
be added. Iron interfacing to the
wrong sides of the outer band and
cuff pieces.
Transferring pattern outlines to
fabric pieces:
Lay interfaced band and cuff pieces
again on corresponding pieces with
no interfacing, right sides together.
Pin the pattern pieces in place again.
Transfer the pattern outlines (seam
and hem lines) and pattern markings
(except straight grain lines) to wrong
side of all fabric pieces using a
tracing wheel and BURDA dress-
maker's carbon paper. Follow the
instructions included with the carbon
paper.
2. Ättaching outer band pieces:
Pin interfaced front band piece to
front neck edge, right sides facing.
Pin interfaced back band piece to
back neck edge, right sides facing.
Stitch bands in place (2). Trim seam
allowances to 7 mm ( 1 4 ") wide. Press
allowances toward band pieces.
Remove the gathering threads which
are visible from the outer side.
5. Attaching sleeves:
Gather upper edge of each sleeve as
described for upper edges of front
and back in step 1. Pin the sleeve to
the attachment edges, right sides
facing. Seam marks (3) must match
and seam lines must match. The
seam mark at center of each sleeve
must meet shoulder seam. Stitch
sleeves in place (5). Finish edges of
seam allowances together. Press the
allowances away from the sleeves.
3. Shoulder seams:
Lay front piece on back piece, right
sides facing. Pin shoulder seams,
matching ends of band attachment
seams. Stitch (3). Press seams open.
Finish edges of allowances.
6. Side seams and sleeve seams:
Lay tunic front on tunic back, right
sides facing. Pin side and sleeve
seams. Stitch seams, leaving each
© Copyright 2007 by Verlag Aenne Burda
2x
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burda Download E 957, Anleitung Tuniken
S. 3 v. 3
edge. Mark the center of each band.
Sew the band centers to the sleeve
seams, over the elastic casing. Tie
bands in bows.
13. Lower sleeve edges:
Press hem allowances on lower
edges of sleeves to wrong side. Turn
raw edges under so that hem allow-
ances are 1.5 cm ( 5 8 ") wide. Edge-
stitch hems in place. Use a safety pin
as bodkin to pull the elastic into the
lower sleeve edges. Sew the ends of
each elastic together for the follow-
ing finished widths, for
sizes 34, 36: 19 cm (7 1 2 "); sizes 38, 40:
20 cm (8"), sizes 42, 44: 21 cm (8 1 4 ").
B, Plaid tunic
6
Sew the tunic as described for the
print tunic, view A, steps 1 to 6. In
addition, topstitch the neck band
close to the attachment seam. Omit
the slits in the side seams and sew
the sleeve seams to the lower edges.
side seam open be-
tween slit marks (for
tie bands) and stitch-
ing only to marked
hem lines on lower
edges of sleeves
(6). Press seams
open. Finish edges
D, Purple tunic
10. Cuffs:
Pin each interfaced cuff piece to a
cuff piece with no interfacing, right
sides together. Stitch edges
together, leaving the attachment
edge open. Trim seam allowances,
trimming diagonally across corners
(9). Turn the cuffs right side out.
Baste the seamed edges and press.
Baste the attachment edges
together. Work buttonholes in the
front edges of each cuff – making
sure that right and left cuff are
mirror images of one another!
Overlap front cuff edge over back
cuff edge, 2.5 cm (1") wide, and pin
in place.
Gather the lower edge of each sleeve
to match the cuff as described for
view A, step 1. Pin cuffs to lower
edges of sleeves, right sides facing.
The front cuff edges must meet the
seam marks on the sleeves. Stitch.
Finish edges of seam allowances
together and press away from cuffs
(10).
of allowances.
Sew the tunic as described for the
print tunic, view A, steps 1 to 6. In
addition, topstitch the neck band
close to the attachment seam. Omit
the slits in the side seams and sew
the sleeve seams to the lower edges.
7. Hem and sleeve hems:
Press hem allowances on lower
edges of tunic and sleeves to wrong
side. Turn raw edges under so that
hem allowances are 1.5 cm ( 5 8 ")
wide. Edgestitch hems in place.
14. Hem:
Finish lower edge of tunic. Turn hem
allowance to inside, baste, and press.
8. Tie bands:
Fold fabric strips (a) for tie bands in
half lengthwise, right side facing in.
Stitch 1.5 cm ( 5 8 ") from fold edge.
Turn each strip right side out. Attach
a doubled thread to one end.
Thread doubled thread through eye
of darning needle and knot securely
(7). Push needle through the fabric
tube, eye end first, to turn the tube
right side out (8).
Cut elastic to the following length:
for sizes 34, 36: 2x 25 cm (10"),
for sizes 38, 40: 2x 30 cm (12"),
for sizes 42, 44: 2x 35 cm (14"). Stitch
bands to ends of elastic pieces. Use a
15. Folded edging:
Stitch fabric strips together with 5 mm
( 3 8 ") wide seams, right sides facing.
Press seams open. Finish long edges
of strip. Fold allowances on long
edges to wrong side, press, and
stitch – finished width for sleeve
edging is 3 cm (1 1 4 ") and for hem
edging, 5 cm (2"). On strip for sleeve
edging, mark pleats following diagram
11. For hem edging, follow diagram
12. On both edgings, begin approx.
3 1,5 3 1,5 3 1,5 3
9
11
7
12
10
8
11. Hem:
Finish lower edge of tunic. Turn hem
allowance to inside, baste, and press.
Working from right side, stitch 2.5 cm
(1") from fold edge.
7 mm ( 1 4 ") from one narrow edge.
Lay pleats in direction of arrows.
Press. Stitch exactly along center of
strip to secure pleats. Then fold
upper and lower corners of each
pleat fold to stitching line and press
(13). Pin edgings along hem edges
of tunic and sleeves, turning ends
under at one side seam or at sleeve
seam. Stitch exactly along stitching
line in center of edging to attach.
safety pin as bodkin to pull the elas-
tic into the hem edges. Knot the end
of each tie band.
9. Lower sleeve edges, casings for
elastic, sleeve ties:
Use a safety pin as bodkin to pull
the elastic into the lower sleeve
edges. Sew the ends of each elastic
together for the following finished
widths, for
sizes 34, 36: 19 cm (7 1 2 "); sizes 38, 40:
20 cm (8"), sizes 42, 44: 21 cm (8 1 4 ").
Sew bias strips (b) as described for
step 8 to form sleeve ties, but stitch
5 mm (a scant 1 4 ") from the fold
C, Golden tunic
Sew as described for print tunic,
view A, steps 1 to 6. In addition, top-
stitch neck band close to attachment
seam. Omit slits in side seams.
12. Hem:
Finish lower edge of tunic. Turn hem
allowance to inside, baste, and press.
Work from right side with twin needle
to stitch 2.5 cm (1") from fold edge.
13
Copyright 2007 by Verlag Aenne Burda GmbH & Co. KG, Am Kestendamm 1, D-77652 Offenburg, Germany.
All models, pattern pieces, and illustrations are copyrighted. Commercial use is prohibited.
The publishers cannot be held responsible for damages due to improper use of the pattern or materials,
improper carrying-out of instructions or tips, or improper use of finished models.
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