Table - Shareton-Style Table.pdf

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SHERATON-STYLE
TABLE
Walnut, White Pine
Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
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MAKING THE SHERATON-
STYLE TABLE
to accommodate the seasonal expansion and contraction
of the top across its width, the screws that fasten the top
to the base should pass through oversized holes in the kicker
strips.
Drawer construction is tricky in one respect. Like the parts
of the apron and the drawer rails, the drawer front must be
shaped to allow it to be closed so that its surface is flush
with the surface of the drawer rails without wide gaps at
either side. Like the apron and drawer rail shoulders, the
drawer front could be undercut, but I wanted a more
graceful shape in this location because it is visible when
the drawer is opened. I decided then to curve the back side
of the drawer front, matching it to the curve on the legs.
After fitting the drawer, sand and finish the table and
drawer.
Begin construction with the legs. The exact shapes of their
various sections can be determined by the individual wood-
worker; however, the section that will be joined to the
apron, that section above the upper bead, must be carefully
formed so that it maintains a consistent diameter from top
to bottom as any variation in diameter will show itself here
as a gap.
Once a leg has been formed but before it's taken from
the lathe, mark the centerlines for the mortises that will
receive the apron tenons. Do this using the lathe's indexing
head.
The indexing head is a disk centered on the lathe's axis
with holes drilled near its perimeter. Each of these holes
marks 10° of the disk's 360° circumference and, by exten-
sion, 10° of the 360° circumference of any work centered
on the lathe's axis. After selecting the faces of the leg that
will be visible from the table's side and end, the tool rest
is brought into contact with that section of the leg that
will be joined to the apron. The indexing head is then
locked at this position (on my lathe that's simply a matter
of releasing a spring-loaded peg into one of the holes drilled
near the head's circumference) and a line is drawn along
the tool rest on the leg. Then, using the spring-loaded peg
to count holes, the work is turned nine stops on the indexing
head which is then locked at this point and a second line
drawn. These lines are 90° apart and mark the centerlines
of the mortises that will house the apron tenons.
After the apron parts and drawer rails have been dimen-
sioned, cut their tenons. You can start this on the table
saw, but it must be completed by hand or on the band
saw as the shoulders of the apron parts must be undercut
so that the shoulders come to a sharp point. This is necessary
if the shoulders are to make tight contact with the round
surface of the leg.
The table frame—consisting of the four legs, the three
sections of the apron, and the two drawer rails—is then
glued-up.
Next, install drawer runners and kicker strips. The kicker
strips on this table serve two purposes. First, they keep the
drawer properly aligned when it is partially open. Second,
they act as cleats to affix the table's top to its base. In order
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Copyright 2004 Martian Auctions
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