JAGUAR XJ-6 CZ-2.pdf

11•1

Chapter 11

Bodywork and fittings

Contents

Body - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Body repair - major damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

Body repair - minor damage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Bonnet and boot lid support struts - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 9

Bonnet release latch and cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Boot lid latch and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14

Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Cowl cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Dashboard trim panels - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Door - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Door latch, lock cylinder and handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . 20

Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Door window glass - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Door window glass regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Front spoiler - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13

Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Hinges and locks - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Instrument cluster housing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Outside mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Steering column cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Upholstery and carpets - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Vinyl trim - maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Windscreen and fixed glass - replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Degrees of difficulty

Easy, suitable for

novice with little

experience

Fairly easy, suitable

for beginner with

some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent

DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for

experienced DIY

mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY

or professional

equally important, although they don’t require

as frequent attention as the rest of the body.

2 Once a year, or every 12,000 miles, it’s a

good idea to have the underside of the body

steam cleaned. All traces of dirt and oil will be

removed and the area can then be inspected

carefully for rust, damaged brake lines, frayed

electrical wires, damaged cables and other

problems. The front suspension components

should be greased after completion of this job.

3 At the same time, clean the engine and the

engine compartment with a steam cleaner or

water soluble degreaser.

4 The wheel wells should be given close

attention, since undercoating can peel away

and stones and dirt thrown up by the tyres

can cause the paint to chip and flake, allowing

rust to set in. If rust is found, clean down to

the bare metal and apply an anti-rust paint.

5 The body should be washed about once a

week. Wet the vehicle thoroughly to soften the

dirt, then wash it down with a soft sponge and

plenty of clean soapy water. If the surplus dirt

is not washed off very carefully, it can wear

down the paint.

6 Spots of tar or asphalt thrown up from the

road should be removed with a cloth soaked

in solvent.

7 Once every six months, wax the body and

chrome trim. If a chrome cleaner is used to

remove rust from any of the vehicle’s plated

parts, remember that the cleaner also removes

part of the chrome, so use it sparingly.

General information

Vinyl trim - maintenance

These models feature a “unibody”

construction, using a floor pan with front and

rear frame side rails which support the body

components, front and rear suspension

systems and other mechanical components.

Certain components are particularly vulnerable

to accident damage and can be unbolted and

repaired or replaced. Among these parts are

the body mouldings, bumpers, front wings,

bonnet and boot lids and all glass.

Only general body maintenance practices

and body panel repair procedures within the

scope of the do-it-yourselfer are included in

this Chapter.

Don’t clean vinyl trim with detergents,

caustic soap or petroleum-based cleaners.

Plain soap and water works just fine, with a

soft brush to clean dirt that may be ingrained.

Wash the vinyl as frequently as the rest of the

vehicle.

After cleaning, application of a high quality

rubber and vinyl protectant will help prevent

oxidation and cracks. The protectant can also

be applied to weather-stripping, vacuum lines

and rubber hoses (which often fail as a result

of chemical degradation) and to the tyres.

Upholstery and carpets -

maintenance

Body - maintenance

1 Every three months remove the carpets or

mats and clean the interior of the vehicle

(more frequently if necessary). Vacuum the

upholstery and carpets to remove loose dirt

and dust.

2 Leather upholstery requires special care.

Stains should be removed with warm water

and a very mild soap solution. Use a clean,

damp cloth to remove the soap, then wipe

1 The condition of your vehicle’s body is very

important, because the resale value depends

a great deal on it. It’s much more difficult to

repair a neglected or damaged body than it is

to repair mechanical components. The hidden

areas of the body, such as the wheel wells,

the frame and the engine compartment, are

3261 Jaguar XJ6

11•2 Bodywork and fittings

again with a dry cloth. Never use alcohol,

petrol, nail polish remover or thinner to clean

leather upholstery.

3 After cleaning, regularly treat leather

upholstery with a leather wax. Never use car

wax on leather upholstery.

4 In areas where the interior of the vehicle is

subject to bright sunlight, cover leather seats

with a sheet if the vehicle is to be left out for

any length of time.

using a soft-face hammer. While doing this,

hold a block of wood firmly against the

opposite side of the metal to absorb the

hammer blows and prevent the metal from

being stretched.

6 If the dent is in a section of the body which

has double layers, or some other factor makes

it inaccessible from behind, a different

technique is required. Drill several small holes

through the metal inside the damaged area,

particularly in the deeper sections. Screw

long, self-tapping screws into the holes just

enough for them to get a good grip in the

metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by

pulling on the protruding heads of the screws

with locking pliers.

7 The next stage of repair is the removal of

paint from the damaged area and from an

inch or so of the surrounding metal. This is

done with a wire brush or sanding disc in a

drill motor, although it can be done just as

effectively by hand with sandpaper. To

complete the preparation for filling, score the

surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or

the tang of a file, or drill small holes in the

affected area. This will provide a good grip

for the filler material. To complete the repair,

see the subsection on filling and painting later

in this Section.

Repair of rust holes or gashes

8 Remove all paint from the affected area and

from an inch or so of the surrounding metal

using a sanding disc or wire brush mounted in

a drill motor. If these are not available, a few

sheets of sandpaper will do the job just as

effectively.

9 With the paint removed, you will be able to

determine the severity of the corrosion and

decide whether to replace the whole panel, if

possible, or repair the affected area. New

body panels are not as expensive as most

people think and it is often quicker to refit a

new panel than to repair large areas of rust.

10 Remove all trim pieces from the affected

area except those which will act as a guide to

the original shape of the damaged body, such

as headlight shells, etc. Using metal snips or a

hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and

any other metal that is badly affected by rust.

Hammer the edges of the hole in to create a

slight depression for the filler material.

11 Wire brush the affected area to remove

the powdery rust from the surface of the

metal. If the back of the rusted area is

accessible, treat it with rust inhibiting paint.

12 Before filling is done, block the hole in

some way. This can be done with sheet metal

riveted or screwed into place, or by stuffing

the hole with wire mesh.

13 Once the hole is blocked off, the affected

area can be filled and painted. See the

following subsection on filling and painting.

Filling and painting

14 Many types of body fillers are available,

but generally speaking, body repair kits which

contain filler paste and a tube of resin

hardener are best for this type of repair work.

A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will

be necessary for imparting a smooth and

contoured finish to the surface of the filler

material. Mix up a small amount of filler on a

clean piece of wood or cardboard (use the

hardener sparingly). Follow the

manufacturer’s instructions on the package,

otherwise the filler will set incorrectly.

15 Using the applicator, apply the filler paste

to the prepared area. Draw the applicator

across the surface of the filler to achieve the

desired contour and to level the filler surface.

As soon as a contour that approximates the

original one is achieved, stop working the

paste. If you continue, the paste will begin to

stick to the applicator. Continue to add thin

layers of paste at 20-minute intervals until the

level of the filler is just above the surrounding

metal.

16 Once the filler has hardened, the excess

can be removed with a body file. From then

on, progressively finer grades of sandpaper

should be used, starting with a 180-grit paper

and finishing with 600-grit wet-or-dry paper.

Always wrap the sandpaper around a flat

rubber or wooden block, otherwise the

surface of the filler will not be completely flat.

During the sanding of the filler surface, the

wet-or-dry paper should be periodically rinsed

in water. This will ensure that a very smooth

finish is produced in the final stage.

17 At this point, the repair area should be

surrounded by a ring of bare metal, which in

turn should be encircled by the finely

feathered edge of good paint. Rinse the repair

area with clean water until all of the dust

produced by the sanding operation is gone.

18 Spray the entire area with a light coat of

primer. This will reveal any imperfections in

the surface of the filler. Repair the

imperfections with fresh filler paste or glaze

filler and once more smooth the surface with

sandpaper. Repeat this spray-and-repair

procedure until you are satisfied that the

surface of the filler and the feathered edge of

the paint are perfect. Rinse the area with

clean water and allow it to dry completely.

19 The repair area is now ready for painting.

Spray painting must be carried out in a warm,

dry, windless and dust free atmosphere.

These conditions can be created if you have

access to a large indoor work area, but if you

are forced to work in the open, you will have

to pick the day very carefully. If you are

working indoors, dousing the floor in the work

area with water will help settle the dust which

would otherwise be in the air. If the repair area

is confined to one body panel, mask off the

surrounding panels. This will help minimise

the effects of a slight mismatch in paint

colour. Trim pieces such as chrome strips,

door handles, etc., will also need to be

masked off or removed. Use masking tape

and several thickness of newspaper for the

masking operations.

20 Before spraying, shake the paint can

thoroughly, then spray a test area until the

Body repair - minor damage

Repair of minor scratches

1 If the scratch is superficial and does not

penetrate to the metal of the body, repair is

very simple. Lightly rub the scratched area

with a fine rubbing compound to remove

loose paint and built-up wax. Rinse the area

with clean water.

2 Apply touch-up paint to the scratch, using a

small brush. Continue to apply thin layers of

paint until the surface of the paint in the

scratch is level with the surrounding paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks to

harden, then blend it into the surrounding

paint by rubbing with a very fine rubbing

compound. Finally, apply a coat of wax to the

scratch area.

3 If the scratch has penetrated the paint and

exposed the metal of the body, causing the

metal to rust, a different repair technique is

required. Remove all loose rust from the

bottom of the scratch with a pocket knife,

then apply rust inhibiting paint to prevent the

formation of rust in the future. Using a rubber

or nylon applicator, coat the scratched area

with glaze-type filler. If required, the filler can

be mixed with thinner to provide a very thin

paste, which is ideal for filling narrow

scratches. Before the glaze filler in the scratch

hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton cloth

around the tip of a finger. Dip the cloth in

thinner and then quickly wipe it along the

surface of the scratch. This will ensure that

the surface of the filler is slightly hollow. The

scratch can now be painted over as described

earlier in this section.

Repair of dents

4 When repairing dents, the first job is to pull

the dent out until the affected area is as close

as possible to its original shape. There is no

point in trying to restore the original shape

completely as the metal in the damaged area

will have stretched on impact and cannot be

restored to its original contours. It is better to

bring the level of the dent up to a point which

is about 1/8-inch below the level of the

surrounding metal. In cases where the dent is

very shallow, it is not worth trying to pull it out

at all.

5 If the back side of the dent is accessible, it

can be hammered out gently from behind

3261 Jaguar XJ6

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

9.2a Use a small screwdriver to prise the clip out of its locking

groove, then detach the end of the strut from the mounting stud

9.2b The boot lid support strut requires prising out a locking pin

to detach it from the locating stud

spray painting technique is mastered. Cover

the repair area with a thick coat of primer. The

thickness should be built up using several thin

layers of primer rather than one thick one.

Using 600-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, rub

down the surface of the primer until it is very

smooth. While doing this, the work area

should be thoroughly rinsed with water and

the wet-or-dry sandpaper periodically rinsed

as well. Allow the primer to dry before

spraying additional coats.

21 Spray on the top coat, again building up

the thickness by using several thin layers of

paint. Begin spraying at the top of the repair

area and then, using a side-to-side motion,

work down until the whole repair area and

about two inches of the surrounding original

paint is covered. Remove all masking material

10 to 15 minutes after spraying on the final

coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least two

weeks to harden, then use a very fine rubbing

compound to blend the edges of the new

paint into the existing paint. Finally, apply a

coat of wax.

components can be found in a scrapyard that

specialises in used vehicle components, often

at considerable savings over the cost of new

parts.

10 Bonnet - removal,

refitting and adjustment

Note: The bonnet is heavy and somewhat

awkward to remove and refit - at least two

people should perform this procedure.

Removal and refitting

1 Use blankets or pads to cover the wings

and the area in front of the bonnet. This will

protect the body and paint as the bonnet is

lifted off.

2 Make marks or scribe a line around the

bonnet hinge to ensure proper alignment

during refitting.

3 Disconnect any cables or wires that will

interfere with removal.

4 Have an assistant support the bonnet.

Remove the hinge-to-bonnet screws or bolts

(see illustration) .

5 Lift off the bonnet.

6 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Adjustment

7 Before the bonnet can be adjusted

properly, both bonnet striker assemblies

Hinges and locks -

maintenance

Once every 3000 miles, or every three

months, the hinges and latch assemblies on

the doors, bonnet and boot should be given a

few drops of light oil or lock lubricant. The

door latch strikers should also be lubricated

with a thin coat of grease to reduce wear and

ensure free movement. Lubricate the door

and boot locks with spray-on graphite

lubricant.

Windscreen and fixed glass -

replacement

Replacement of the windscreen and fixed

glass requires the use of special fast-setting

adhesive/caulk materials and some

specialised tools. It is recommended that

these operations be left to a dealer or a

workshop specialising in glass work.

Body repair - major damage

1 Major damage must be repaired by an auto

body workshop specifically equipped to

perform unibody repairs. These workshops

have the specialised equipment required to

do the job properly.

2 If the damage is extensive, the body must

be checked for proper alignment or the

vehicle’s handling characteristics may be

adversely affected and other components

may wear at an accelerated rate.

3 Due to the fact that most of the major body

components (bonnet, front wings, etc.) are

separate and replaceable units, any seriously

damaged components should be replaced

rather than repaired. Sometimes the

Bonnet and boot lid support

struts - removal and refitting

1 Open the bonnet or boot lid and support it

securely.

2 Using a small screwdriver, detach the

retaining clips at both ends of the support

strut. Then pry or pull sharply to detach it from

the vehicle (see illustrations).

3 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

10.4 With the help of an assistant to hold

the bonnet, remove the retaining bolts

(arrowed) from each hinge plate, then lift

off the bonnet

3261 Jaguar XJ6

11•4 Bodywork and fittings

10.11 Adjust the position of the bonnet striker by loosening the

locknut (A), then adjust the height of the bonnet striker (B) by

turning it in or out with a screwdriver

10.12 Remove the rubber bumper then loosen the locknut (A) -

adjust the bonnet bumper bolt (B) in or out so the bonnet is flush

with the wings in the closed position

11.1 Remove the cable retaining bolt(s) (arrowed) then disengage

the cable from the latch assembly

11.2 Bonnet latch retaining bolts (arrowed) are located on both

sides of the engine compartment

which are located on the inside of the bonnet

must first be loosened to allow correct

alignment of the bonnet.

8 Fore-and-aft and side-to-side adjustment

of the bonnet is done by moving the bonnet in

relation to the hinge plates after loosening the

bolts.

9 Scribe or trace a line around the entire

hinge plate to judge the amount of movement.

10 Loosen the nuts or bolts and move the

bonnet into correct alignment. Move it only a

little at a time. Tighten the hinge bolts or nuts

and carefully lower the bonnet to check the

alignment.

11 After the bonnet has been aligned

properly with the cowl and front wings, the

height and position of the bonnet striker

assembly should be adjusted to provide

positive engagement with the latch assembly

(see illustration) .

12 Adjust the bonnet bumpers on the wings

so the bonnet is flush with the wings when

closed (see illustration) .

13 The bonnet latch assembly, as well as the

hinges, should be lubricated with white lithium-

base grease to prevent sticking and wear.

5 Detach all cable retaining clips located in

the engine compartment.

6 Working in the passenger compartment,

remove the driver’s side kick panel surrounding

the bonnet release lever. Pull the release lever

forward and detach the release cables from the

handle and bracket assembly (see illustration).

11 Bonnet release latch and

cable - removal and refitting

Latch

1 Disconnect the bonnet release cables by

removing the cable retaining bolts and

disengaging the cable from the latch

assembly. (see illustration).

2 Scribe a line around the latches to aid

alignment when refitting, then detach the

retaining bolts from the inner footwell (see

illustration) and remove the latch.

3 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

Cable

4 Disconnect the bonnet release cable as

described in (Section 11).

11.6 Remove the driver’s side kick panel

to access the bonnet release cables from

the passenger compartment

3261 Jaguar XJ6

Bodywork and fittings 11•5

7 Attach a piece of thin wire or string to the

end of the cables to help aid the refitting

process.

8 Working in the engine compartment, pull

the cables and grommet out of the bulkhead

until you can see the wire or string. Ensure

that the new cable has a grommet attached

then remove the old cable from the wire or

string and replace it with the new cable.

9 Working from passenger compartment pull

the wire or string back through the bulkhead.

10 Refitting is the reverse of removal. Note:

Push on the grommet with your fingers from

the engine compartment to seat the grommet

in the bulkhead.

12.1 Removing one side at a time, remove

the grille insert retaining screws (arrowed)

- tilt the top edge of the grille insert

forward, then lift up and out to remove it

12.2 Working through the grille insert

openings, remove the retaining screws

from each edge of the grille frame

spoiler, detach the retaining screws securing

the front of the spoiler (see illustration) .

5 Pull the spoiler forward and detach it from

the vehicle.

6 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

12 Radiator grille -

removal and refitting

13 Front spoiler -

removal and refitting

1 Using a Phillips screwdriver, detach the

right and left hand grille inserts from the grille

assembly (see illustration) . Note: The grille

can be removed without removing the inserts,

but reaching the mounting screws from above

is quite difficult.

2 Working through the grille insert openings,

remove the retaining screws securing both

ends of the grille frame (see illustration).

3 Pull the grille frame forward and remove it

from the vehicle.

4 Refitting is the reverse of removal.

1 Working on the left side of the vehicle,

remove the front spoiler lower cover (see

illustration) .

2 Remove the screws securing the front air

dam panels in the left and right wheel

openings (see illustration) , then detach the

air dam panels from the vehicle. Note: It will

probably be necessary to turn the wheels to

the right and left for access to the screws.

3 Detach the retaining bolts securing the

sides of the spoiler (see illustration) .

4 Working through the grille area of the

14 Bumpers -

removal and refitting

1 Detach the direction indicator and side

marker light assemblies from the bumper(s)

(see illustrations).

2 Disconnect all wire harness connectors

attached to the bumper or light assemblies

that would interfere with removal.

13.1 Working underneath the vehicle,

remove the screws (arrowed) securing the

front spoiler lower cover

13.2 Working in the front wheel openings,

remove the screws (arrowed) securing the

front air dam panels

13.3 The retaining bolts (arrowed)

securing the sides of the front spoiler are

located behind the bumper

13.4 Working through the grille area of the

spoiler, remove the screws (arrowed)

retaining the front of the spoiler

14.1a Depress the retaining clips on each

side of the side marker lamp assemblies,

then gently prise forward to remove it . . .

14.1b . . . then detach the direction

indicator assemblies from the bumper in

the same manner

3261 Jaguar XJ6

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