Jak zbudowac kajak - Boat Plans - Canoe.pdf - Stolarka - szpunar85

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See more plans at bateau.com

Cheap canoe, description.

Plywood-epoxy canoe (stitch and glue) made from two sheets of 6mm (1/4") plywood: cheap!

LOA: 13' 5" Beam: 30"

(4,05 m x 75 cm)

Overview:

This canoe is made of plywood panels, cut flat on the floor from dimensions given on the plans. The shape

of the panels is very simple and easy to transfer to the plywood.

Butt blocks are used to make long panels from standard sheets of plywood.

The side panels are folded around the bottom panel and a batten, held in place with duct tape.

Fiberglass seams are built inside.

The assembly is then flipped over and fiberglass tape is used to cover all the outside edges.

Finish by installing a simple seat reinforcement in the middle, two small breasthooks and a rubrail made

from a plain wooden strip.

Epoxy coat and paint the complete assembly.

In the following building notes we will describe how to :

Û transfer the dimensions to the plywood

Û cut the plywood and make long panels

Û assemble the hull with epoxy and fiberglass

Û finish with the installation of some reinforcements

____________________________________________________________________________________

www.eboat.net Page eboat.net

Free plans courtesy of:

See more plans at bateau.com

Cheap canoe, drawing the parts on the plywood.

We start by cutting the main parts from two sheets of 6 mm (1/4") plywood.

Look at the nesting drawing below for the suggested layout of these parts on the plywood.

(Go to the last pages of this file for high resolution copies of the plans)

The drawing shows two standard sheets of plywood, side by side, joined along their shorter edge.

The two narrow panels drawn on the plywood are the side panels of the canoe, the oblong one in the

center is the bottom panel.

Before we start marking the plywood, two remarks:

1. The boat is symmetrical along two axis: port and starboard are identical as on most boats but in this

one, the bow and the stern are also the same. This makes the scribing of the shapes easy: you need only

to measure one side, the other side can be copied from the first one.

2. The hull panels are longer than a standard sheet of plywood. We will cut two pieces and assemble those

pieces with a butt block.

See a picture of a butt block at our web site bateau.com in the tutorials section. It is just a piece of plywood glued over the joint

between the two parts: simple, fast and strong. The designer located the butt blocks right in the middle of the boat where they are

not only less conspicuous but also serve as reinforcements. Please do not use scarfs or any other complicated woodworking assembly

technique: we need the extra thickness of the butt block right where we show it.

Which plywood?

Any exterior plywood with no voids will work. Some varieties of Lauan plywood are perfect but check

them: it should be exterior and the outside plies should not be too thin.

Marine plywood is fine, the best one for this boat being Okume: light, easy to bend, easy to finish but

expensive.

Read more about plywood selection at bateau.com

____________________________________________________________________________________

www.eboat.net Page eboat.net

Free plans courtesy of:

See more plans at bateau.com

Scribing the side panel.

Let's draw the outline of the plywood pieces, first one of the side panels.

The designer made our work easier by calculating the hull in such a way that one side of that panel is

straight. That side, the sheer side, will nicely curve in 3 dimensions when bent.

On the flat plywood sheets, that side panel is lined up with the long edge of the plywood.

For explanations of boat building terms like "sheer", see our web site bateau.com , tutorials section.

The middle of the side panel is at the junction between the two sheets of plywood: we will measure from

there.

Let's first mark the two corners of the longer side. The dimensions drawing shows that each corner is at

2135 mm * from the middle (follow the arrow). Let's mark one corner on each side.

That was easy.

• Why metric? Metric is not only the official, legal units system in the US but it is much easier. Please do not

translate metric units to inches: most tape measures have a metric side, use that one.

If you don’t want to work in metric, see the dimensions in feet and inches on

the plans included in the last pages of this file.

____________________________________________________________________________________

www.eboat.net Page eboat.net

Free plans courtesy of:

See more plans at bateau.com

Now, let's scribe the line on which the lower tips, the other two corners, will be. The drawing shows that

these corners are on a line at 12 " from the edge (see the arrow below). Let's draw that line: measure 12"

along the short side of each plywood sheet and join those points with a straight line.

On that line, the corners are at 1945 mm from the middle: measure and mark them.

Now that you have the upper and lower corners of side panel, you can draw a line between them, they will

become the bow and stern.

____________________________________________________________________________________

www.eboat.net Page eboat.net

Free plans courtesy of:

See more plans at bateau.com

All that is left to draw is the lower side of the panel. That side is curved. It is an easy curve: a plain arc of

a circle that we can draw with only three points. We already have the two end points, we need one in the

middle.

Look at the drawing: it shows that the middle point is 37 mm above the straight line that we drew at 12"

from the long edge. Mark that point. That point is in the middle and this means that it is on the edge of

the plywood sheets.

There is no need for more points: small variations are very acceptable in our building method. Gaps

between the panel's egdes are better than a tight fit. Read more about that in the tutorials at bateau.com.

____________________________________________________________________________________

www.eboat.net Page eboat.net

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