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Anniversary Table
Anniversary Table
The second in our furniture series commemorating 100 years of PM.
In the February issue we introduced the first piece in the
POPULAR MECHANICS 100th anniversary furniture
series--our elegant
mahogany side chair
.
Now it's time to
expand the theme with a project that's sure to capture your
imagination--and everyone else's attention: a stunning table
to match the
chair
.
Like our chair, the table is built of mahogany and features
detailing in wenge--a dark, dense African wood. But what
really sets this table apart are the magnificent surfaces of
pomele sapele veneer. This highly figured veneer creates
planes of light that appear to have a life of their own. The
panels change appearance as you walk around the table to
produce a sense of movement and depth that's truly
dazzling. This is a table that can serve as the centerpiece
of a room or as an accent to an already established decor.
If you use it as a dining table, it will comfortably seat four to
six adults.
MATERIALS LIST--TABLE
Key
No.
Size and description (use)
A 1 3/4 x 27-3/4 x 57-3/4" MDF (top core)
B as reqd. pomele sapele (top veneer)
C as reqd. mahogany (bottom veneer)
D1
2
3/16 x 9/32 x 27-3/8" wenge (inlay)
D2
2
3/16 x 9/32 x 57-3/4" wenge (inlay)
E1
2
13/16 x 1-1/8 x 30" mahogany (edge)
E2
2
13/16 x 1-1/8 x 60" mahogany (edge)
F1
2
3/16 x 1 x 26-3/4"
hardwood
(spline)
F2
2
3/16 x 1 x 58-3/4" hardwood (spline)
G
4
2-1/4 x 2-1/4 x 27-11/16" mahogany (leg)
H*
4
1/2 x 2-1/4 x 2-1/4" wenge (foot)
I1
2
1 x 3-1/2 x 25-5/8" mahogany (apron)
I2
2
1 x 3-1/2 x 55-5/8" mahogany (apron)
J1
8
3/16 x 1-5/8 x 23-9/16" wenge (decorative
panel)
J2
8
3/16 x 1-5/8 x 27-11/16" wenge (decorative
panel)
K1 2
3/16 x 1-7/8 x 18-5/8" wenge (decorative
panel)
K2 2
3/16 x 1-7/8 x 48-5/8" wenge (decorative
panel)
L
as reqd. pomele sapele (decorative panel veneer)
M
4
1 x 3-1/2 x 5" maple (corner block)
N 16 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
O 14 1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
P 14 3/4" No. 8 fh woodscrew
Q** 14
tabletop fastener
R 16
1" No. 8 fh woodscrew
Misc.: Veneer tape; plastic-resin glue; kraft paper; 120-, 220-,
and 320-grit sandpaper; 4/0 steel wool; Waterlox Original
Sealer/Finish (Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech Ave.,
Cleveland, OH 44105).
*Finished dimension. Cut oversize and trim after assembly.
**No. 21650, available from Rockler Woodworking and
Hardware, 4365 Willow Dr., Medina, MN55340.
Wenge and pomele sapele veneers are available
from various mail-order wood dealers. One such
supplier is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle
St. N., Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada
N3H 5M2; 800-265-2759; www.amwoodinc.com.
In addition to the figured veneer, you'll need a
small amount of plain mahogany veneer for the
bottom face of the table's top panel.
Our figured veneer top is made up of several
sheets placed edge to edge. You'll find that the
individual pieces are sold in the sequence that
they're cut from the log. This gives you control
over the repetitive pattern created by the
assembled veneer sheets. On our tabletop, we
used a book match pattern, in which every other
sheet of veneer is flipped over to create a mirror
image of the adjacent sheet.
Stack all top veneer pieces and cut them
at one time. Align the grain and use a
straight board to guide the veneer saw.
Top Construction
Begin by cutting the 3/4-in. MDF (medium-density
fiberboard) core stock to size for the top panel.
Cut the core a few inches longer and wider than
finished dimensions. We used four sheets of
veneer, with the grain running across the tabletop,
to cover our panel. Whether you choose to run it
across or parallel to the length of the top, position
a seam at the center with an equal number of
pieces to either side.
Join adjacent sheets of veneer with
lengths of veneer tape across seam. Add
tape along seam to hold joint tight.
Prepare to cut the sheets to uniform size by
placing them in a stack. Arrange the pieces so
that the grain pattern is aligned, and mark the
outline of the cuts on the top sheet.
Use a veneer saw to cut the stack (Photo 1).
Guide the flat side of the saw along a straight
piece of 3/4-in. hardwood or plywood. Make light
passes to keep from tearing the delicate edges.
Make the crossgrain cuts first, followed by cuts
along the grain that will determine the seams. Use
the same technique to cut the mahogany veneer
for the bottom face.
Lay out the sheets and check that each seam is
tight. If necessary, adjust the edges with a block
plane. Use perforated paper veneer tape to hold
the sheets together. Moisten 6-in. lengths of tape
with a damp sponge and place them across the
first seam, spaced about 4 to 6 in. apart. Next,
place a strip of tape along the length of the seam
(Photo 2). Tape the remaining seams. If splits
occur, use veneer tape to repair them. Prepare
the bottom veneer using the same technique.
Use a foam roller to spread glue on the
core. Then, carefully invert the core onto
the bottom veneer face.
Use battens spaced about 6 in. apart to
apply pressure across the veneer
assembly. Clamp from the center out.
Trim the top panel to size and use a
router to cut the inlay rabbet around the
perimeter.
Apply glue to the rabbet and use masking
tape to clamp the inlay to the panel. Sand
the inlay flush to the top.
To glue the veneer to the core, you'll need two
cauls of 3/4-in. plywood that are the same size as
the panel core. You'll also need 22 straight 2 x 4
battens--one pair every 6 in.--to span across the
core on the top and bottom, and some kraft paper
or newspaper to place between the cauls and
veneer faces.
Prepare for veneering by placing straight 2 x 4
support rails between two sawhorses, and laying
the bottom row of battens along the rails.
Position a 2-in. veneer shim in the center of each
batten, and then place the bottom plywood caul
over the battens. The veneer shims ensure
adequate pressure at the center of the panel.
Spread paper over the caul and place the
mahogany bottom veneer face, tape side down,
over the paper.
After routing spline grooves and cutting
mahogany edge strips, test fit splines.
Then glue edging one piece at a time.
We used plastic-resin glue for our panel because
it has a long open time. Use a foam roller to
evenly spread glue onto one face of the core
(Photo 3). Invert the core onto the bottom veneer
face and align the edges. Roll glue onto the top of
the core and position the top veneer face, tape
side up. Cover the veneer with paper and the top
caul, and then add the battens. Place a veneer
shim under the center of each batten and, starting
at the center of the panel, clamp each pair of
battens at both ends (Photo 4).
Install wenge feet with screws and glue.
Cut feet about 1/16 in. oversize and sand
flush after installation.
Let the glue set overnight before removing the
clamps. Peel off as much paper as possible and
use a cabinet scraper or finish sander to complete
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