GEET Fuel Processor Plans.pdf

FREE - GEET Fuel Processor Plans

This is a greatly simplified "Proof of Concept" version of the GEET Fuel Processor that just about anyone can build from

parts from a local Hardware store in a weekend for very low cost. A used lawnmower engine will be used for

demonstration purposes so things will be easier to see without obstructions.

The basic configuration remains the same for any retrofit conversion to engines. More advanced versions are now

available from GEET that use air management valves that combine all 3 valve functions with automatic sequencing, and

also carburetor or fuel injection systems to replace bubblers in moving vehicles.

5 kW electric generators and 3 ½ HP demonstration engines are available now from GEET. Complete component retrofit

kits will be available shortly for most cars and trucks starting at $1,000 plus installation. Large Diesel and Turbine

conversions will be available as soon as development funding is available from investors.

Step 1 - Tools needed - pipe wrench, crescent wrench,

spring tube benders, pipe cutter, pipe flaring tool, allen

wrench, soldering equipment, file, and screw driver. Obtain

all your parts and tools needed for the conversion ahead of

time.

Most professional plumbing supply stores stock higher

quality parts compared to large home centers cheap

plumbing parts. The savings aren't that much on a small

project like this. The most crucial quality part is on the inner

pipe, problems arise from inconsistent wall thickness, out of

roundness, thick weld seams, etc on low quality pipe.

(1) Tools Needed

Step 2 - Strip down the engine removing the gas tank,

muffler, and carburetor. Remove the mower blade and

replace with a 12" diameter steel disk flywheel of the same

thickness as the blade for safety.

(2) Stripped Engine

Step 3 - Take the 1"x1/2"x1/2" reducing tees and mount

them on a 1" nipple (short pipe), and then using a lathe,

machine the end smooth and fly cut (bore out) the hole in

the end 27/32" (21mm) so that the 1/2" inner pipe will slide

inside. This procedure can also be done by using a drill

press to drill a 27/32" or 7/8" hole in the end of the tee and

then use a file to smooth the roughness off.

The 1/2" pipe connector and 1/2" tee will each need to have

one end smoothed off as well to receive the copper washers

as a tight seal. If anyone has a machine shop that would

like to do this for others, contact GEET. We might also offer

a complete kit that has all the parts ready to be assembled

in minutes if there's enough interest.

(3) Tee & Connector

Step 4 - Have a plumber or plumbing center cut your inner

reactor 1/2" pipe to 16 + 7/16" and thread both ends. Use

Black Pipe here because galvanized pipe gives off toxic

fumes if heated too much. File the 12" x 1/2" multi-fuel steel

rod to a bullet point on one end only. (7 + 3/8" x 1/2" for

gasoline only) This will keep you out of trouble later if you

can't remember which way the rod points. The engine will

not run if the rod is put in backwards after it has a magnetic

signature.

Assemble the parts in order as in the above picture using

the 7/8" / 22mm copper.washers used in oil drain plugs for

cars. (2 - 1"x1/2"x1/2" machined reducing tees joined by the

12" long 1" nipple, slide the 16 + 7/16" long 1/2" reactor pipe

inside, add a copper washer on each end and then add the

1/2" connector and 1/2" tee.)

(4) Plumbing Pipes & Rod

Step 5 - Assemble the other valve component

subassemblies above. The 1/2" thick steel intake / exhaust

adapter plate above is used only on some engines like

"Tecumseh" and Overhead Valve Engines (picture 9).

Some "Briggs and Stratton" engines, etc usually already

have the exhaust threaded for 1/2" pipe, but the intake is on

the other side of the engine causing longer hose runs. Also

a compression pipe connector or a piece of rubber hose

with clamps will need to be connected from the engine

intake to the Bubbler pipe.

(1/2" valve (Air Mixture Valve), 1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" tee,

1 1/2" x 1/2" nipple, 1/2" valve (Throttle Valve), 1/2" to 1/4"

pipe reducer bushing, half of 3" x 1/4" nipple.) and (Muffler,

1/2" ball valve (Optional - Back pressure valve), 3" x 1/2"

nipple, 1/2" tee, 1/2" to 1/4" pipe reducer bushing, half of 3"

x 1/4" nipple, 1 1/2" nipple.)

(5) Valve Components

Step 6 - Assemble the sub-assemblies onto the reaction

chamber above making sure to install the 12" rod inside

pointed away from the engine. Now it's time to start on the

bubbler.

(6) Finished Reactor

Step 7 - Take 10 3/4" x 1/2" copper pipe and solder a

copper 1/4" NPT - 1/2" pipe adaptor on one end and a 1/2"

cap on the other. Drill a 1/16" hole through the cap, turn 90

degrees and drill through again, also one up through the

bottom. Take the other 1/4" NPT - 1/2" adaptor and cut off

the thinwall portion to make a pipe nut and file smooth for

inside the Anti-Freeze jug.

(7) Bubbler End & Pipe Nut

Step 8 - Take a 1 gallon anti-freeze jug and drill a 1/2" hole

near the top of the jug and through the cap as illustrated.

Assemble the parts together in the following order. (Hose,

half of 3" x 1/4" nipple, 1/4" pipe connector, short 3/4"

nipple, bushing, hole in jug, bushing, and pipe nut.) and

( (Optional - Back Pressure Hose), half of 3" x 1/4" nipple,

1/4" pipe elbow, short 3/4" nipple, bushing, hole in jug cap,

bushing, and soldered pipe.)

(8) Bubbler & Hoses

Step 9 - The port adapter was formed by cleaning the

intake and exhaust ports off. Then dipping a finger in the

exhaust port to get some soot to rub on wide masking tape

taped over the ports. This then leaves a perfect template to

then tape into a 1/2" thick piece of steel, then drill

the mounting and the port holes and tap the ports with a

1/2" NPT thread tap.

(9) Exhaust & Intake

Step 10- Use 1/2" tubing for 10 HP or less (* 5/8" tubing

and flare fittings for 10-20 HP) with a 1/2" tubing spring

bender and form a loop, then remove the spring. Slide the

flare nuts on each end, and then slide the flaring tool on so

that the pipe sticks out about 3/16", make the flared ends.

(Air-Conditioning supply houses carry flare fittings if you

have difficulty finding them.)

(10) Tubing Loop

Step 11 - Assemble all the parts onto the engine, and then

add a 1" pipe support or 1 1/4" exhaust hangar. Fill the

bubbler up no more than 1/4 full till you get used to using it

(up to half full later), have someone steady the jug while

starting the engine so it doesn't spill into the hoses. If wet

fuel gets on the reaction rod it will stop running, you'll have

to dry your rod and hoses out. You can hang it from the

mower handle if you like later after it's started.

You must point the exhaust end of the rod due North while

starting the engine the first time and let it run for 30 min to

"burn in the rod". The rod will self center magnetically by

itself after it's running or you can weld three bumps on each

end to center the rod (file them to fit snugly).

Leave the optional back pressure valve open, open the

throttle and mixture valve about halfway, and start the

engine by varying the air mixture valve.

(11) Finished Conversion

Then slowly increase the throttle wide open while adjusting

the air mixture valve. Make sure to paint all external pipes

and connectors with High Temperature Grill Paint or they

will rust very quickly. (Except copper, brass or galvanized)

Step 12 - For an installation on a generator, you can also

use 90 degree elbows to keep the pipes within the cage.

Mount the GEET Fuel Processor as far away as possible

from the generator magnetic field so they do not interfere

with each other. Also be very careful with credit cards in

your pockets or video cameras, etc from getting too close to

the engine while it's running so they won't be erased.

(12) 5 kW GEET Generator

Finally - Experiment with the optional Back Pressure valve to run closed loop on heavy fuels, different materials for the

inner pipe and reaction rod. Different rod lengths and also threaded rods, engine side of the reactor locations for the air

mixture and/or throttle valves, exhaust heated copper tubing from the bubbler to the throttle valve, 5 gallon bubblers,

double bubblers for non-soluble fuels, vacuum gages, etc, etc, and also "alternative fuels".

The beauty of this design is that it can be reconfigured in minutes.We plan to set up a 900 number shortly for technical

questions, no calls or technical information will be taken at the main number. We also set up a newsgroup and FAQ for

experimenters to exchange information and new discoveries. Have fun with it and let us know how it works out!

Parts List - Small Engine GEET Conversion

( Some Engines Only - ½" Steel Adapter Plate with 4 - ¾" Allen Screws and 12" steel disk)

Fuel Processor

1 - 16 7/16" x ½" Black Pipe - (Cut + Threaded)

1 - 12" x 1" Black Pipe Nipple (painted)

1 - 12" x ½" Steel Rod

2 - 1" x ½" x ½" Galvanized Reducing Tees (Ward - best)

2 - 22mm / 7/8" Copper Oil Drain Plug Washers

1 - 2" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple

1 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Connector

1 - 1" Galvanized Pipe Hangar with Bolt & Nuts

3 - 1½" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipples

1 - 3" x ½" Galvanized Pipe Nipple

3 - ½" NPT Ball Valves (B&K - best)

1 - ½" Galvanized NPT Muffler

2 - ½" Galvanized Pipe Tees

2 - ½" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Reducing Bushings

1 - Can Hi-Temp Grill Paint

27" - ½" Copper Tubing (* 5/8")

2 - ½" NPT / ½¾" Brass Male Flare Fitting (* 5/8")

2 - ½" Brass Flare Nuts (* 5/8")

Bubbler

1 - 1 gallon Anti-Freeze Jug

4 - ½" Galvanized Hose Clamps

6' - ½" ID Clear Vinyl Hose - (cut in half)

2 - 3" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples - (cut

in half)

4 - 9/16" Galvanized Bushing Washers -

(1/8" thick)

1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Elbow

2 - ¾" x ¼" Galvanized Pipe Nipples

1 - ¼" Galvanized Pipe Connector

1 - 10¾" x ½" Copper Water Pipe

1 - ½" Copper Pipe Cap

2 - ½" x ¼" NPT Copper Pipe Adapters

Source: http://www.teslatech.info/ttstore/articles/geet/geet.htm

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