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NO.60
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Sawdust
DonaldB. Pe6chke
Ted Kralicek
OouglasL Hicks
Oouglas M.Lidsler
KentA. BucKon
Ken Munkel
DavldKreyling
Ca.y Christens€n
Fod Sloakes
ChrisGlowacki
SandyBaum,Mgr.
JackieStroud
PatKoob
LisaThompson
LeslieAnnGearhart
TerryJ. Slrohman
KenMine]
CherylScotl
JeanCarey
Archie Kiaus€
A.Bor,'T THIS rssltE. Hislory repeats itself,
or so they say. I ladn't leally thousht
nuch about that in tems of Woods,'ii,
until we stafted work on rhis issue.
I/oo.lsnil/. actualy goi stafted in July
1978 when I besan work on th€ firit issue.
,A-sit tlms out, ninety-nine yeals earlier,
in May 18?9, my gr€at g?.dfather, Enil
Peschke, stafi€d his o$n compuy.
W]ly am I mentionins this now? The
compdy Emil staded was a "Manufac
ruer of all kjnds of Mouldings,Pictw
Frames and Curtain Pol€s." (I'm lucky
enough to have one of tbe busin€ss fonns
he used back ihen. We incoryorated it into
the cover photo of this issue.)
So, it's conins tull cycle, and I'm finally
getting around to making the pictur€
fi?Ines that seem to b€ part of my hei-
tase. Of cours€, l,he moldings we'r€ shos-
ing in this issu€ are not .early as oruie
as those Enil nade 100yeas !go. But
So far, w€'ve added the suppli€sfor
thr€e of lhase past pnrjects. Fil5t is the
clock novement (either brass kelvind or
quad,"6attery), dial, door slass (which is
stenciled d-s shosn in rhe jssue) and the
hrdwde for the Resulator Clock sho$n
in Woods,ril, No. 36.
As a result of a number of requests. we
ar€ otrering nore choices for the Cradle
shoM in Wood3rzil/' No. 48. The cradle
ws orisinaly shown in oak. We now offe.
the spindles (and the buttons) in oak,
If you wanted io bujki the Eurcpea.
Workbench sbo$n in Woo.ls'ritl No. 50,
you may hav€ had houble getting the
vises. It was xol the fault of Woodcraft
Supply (the rnail oder source we lisled)-
TheJ did an adnintle job of trTing to set
and ke€p the vises in stock. The poblem
was $'ith the manufactu€r.
We hale talked directly with the man-
uf&turer and hav€ received a sbipnent of
the vises for t|e Norkb€nch. You can siil
order toon Woodcrafi Supply, and we arc
also tr'.ins io k€rp some on hand.
rcco IIEMS. One of the things I didnt
mention was the addilion of ihe "logo"
itens. We nos have a shop apron, a cotree
mug, and a coxluroy Gp
PrcruRE FRAMES.W]tat wa-sso much
tun, though, was conins up wiih a variety
of tuames usins a limited amount of
machinery. We decided to lirnjt the work
to usins a router table to fom the prcfiles.
This meant we had to make aI th€ profiles
with router bits. Is this roo linitins?
At tusr, I thoushi it woukl be. But tben
I began looking at the dozensofrouter bii
profiles avanabb. Thera were actualy too
many choices.So, we took another ap-
pnrach. ALI of tbe prcfiles are made by
using onh three silndnrd router bit pro'
files (stmisht, roundover, rnd corebo\).
Using differcnt sizes of thes€ bii.s, we
were able to come up wiih seveml dozen
plofilcs. Then it became a matter of choos-
iDs which oncs to sho\r in this issue.
We settled on 10profiles. Some are very
simple, some ar€ complex. Th€ key to tbe
complex ones is that they are rcally just
combinations of ihe sinple ones. That is,
the complex moldinss s€'re showins don't
have to be one srdp of wood that's fomed
by a very complex bit.
Insi€ad, make sevenl strips with just
one profile on eeh strip. Then join them
together. Conbinations like this ar€ al-
nost endless.All that h3sto be done is to
find new ways of aranging the stdps to
oe|te new pnrfiles.It's just a mntter of
using your imagination.
PRoJECTsuPPuEs.In the lst issue,I
talked aboui the project suppli€s lbr the
p.ojects sho\rn in lvoodsntti. lve are
beginning to so bek to proj({ts sho$D jn
past issues and trying to find sources lbr
those suppli€s. (!'or sone of these past
projects, w€ sonetimes listed a source
that ha-ssince stopp€d carrying tbe items.)
TheWoodsmithStore
aI with the
tYoo{tuDill logoon them.
To be bonestabout all this, I resisted
offering this t)]rc of tbi.s for many yees.
But whai triggercd it wa^sa simple need.
I $anted a spod shop nprcn.
The typicalbluedennnonesI'!e seenin
sone caialogs ud stoies just $'eren't tbe
quality I wanted. And worse, the pockets
we.e too small and in the $mng places.
So,w€ desisDedou own. Actually,Tery
SLrchrmndesign€.liL- ..
NEw FAcEs.Te.ry joined oul Pmject
SupplJ tem this pasl fall. He worked in
the Wooik,iill Siore herc in Des Moines
for $out a year. The. we r€cruited him
to help with the "fiont
(FebruaryApril,June,Au-
gust, October, December)by Woodsmilh
PublishingCo.,2200GrandAve.,Des
Moines,1450312.
Woodsmiih is a regisleredtrademarkol
WoodsmithPublishinqCo.
ocopyright 1988byWoodsmilhPublishing
Co.All BightsReseryed.
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second class Postage Paid at Des
end" work for the
tbe shopapron
and getting the other logo ilems lined up,
TeFy hLs been working on rll the details
you never ihink about . . . getting t€le
phone lin€s in for the 800 number, desisn
ing th€ foms need€d to take oders nnd
to ship then, and tryins io think of ways
to make th€ entir€ process morc efficient.
He ha-shad several hcadaches.
But things arc prcsressins. And with
Teuy's help, rve hope to offer a wider
l"nse of sewiee for all Woods,riil prcject
Postmaster: Send changeof addresslo
Woodsmith.Box491 , Mt.Monis,lL61054.
SUBSCRIPTIONOUESTIONS? Calltoll
Jree800-,l3H71 5 (lllinois residenlscall800-
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BACKISSUES:Fora lree bookletdescnb-
inoallolthebackissues,sendio l,Voodsmih,
2'00 c€nd Ave..DesMoines.
lA 50312.
SAMPLECOPYWewillsendafreesample
copyof tlbodsmrti lo anyone.Just sendus
his/hernameandaddress.
The ne\t issu€ of Wood'
s,riih will be maileddudng the week of
lebrudJ 2?, 1989.
WOODSMITH
WOODSMrH (ESN 01&4114) is pub'
lashed
bimonthly
Ir addiLionto desigDing
NEKr MATLTNG.
111362564.003.png
!p
s &. Techniques
stock6"long-Now. to dcicm ne ryhereto
ddll holes for the difibrent sizcd dorvels,
nark a cenl.olinealoDgtbe thicknessol
a coting salvor a backs.r1r.
To pinch the biadetighi nr the kcr{ I
usea '/," dia.machnres.reN andnut. I)iU
a rr"-din. holc, cntofeil on the width of
lhe handle % trom ihc leadins edse.
Now belel the hoDt €dgesol lhe handle
so mor€bladecaDbe used.
]RAMINq A 45' ANGLI
When I set up the table sl$' for cutting
miters, I us€ a liltle geometrv to :]djust
the miter g:uge for 45".
To set a 45' angle, I use a franring
squtu€ and fom an rsos(rlfs l.fiansle. (AI
isoscelesLrianslehas two equalsmes,and
rwo 45" nngles.)
Next nrdkernarkson this cent€rhrc 1"
and 2" fiom eachend of the block.Then
ddll the four (lo$'el holes ('r,", /,' Lld'
and 'f1") compl€telv throush the block.
(Dilling rbrcugh l.he block allows the
do$'elto be pushed thruush so oneend is
ag:insl.thc fences'hen.utting.)
In ad.lition to cultingditr€feDldiameter
dowels,I also waDtedthe jis lo cut the
dow€lsto differentlengths-To do this, hv
the block doirn on the band sas' (so the
hoiesare hori,onhl) and cut 2['lons
s.rw keds at y!" inteNals on both cnds of
TRA,'\iIINCSOUTRE AT€ EOUAIAT
MIIERGAUG! !TO'
Sinsleedgedfuors hale a smallholein
the cenler of the bl.]dclhnt nccdsto b€
enlarged to acceli the machine scrcrv-
SiDCe
To set the miter gauge to I true '15"
3ngle,set the naming squ,ueon the top
of ihc table saw. N.rw rlisn the same
measurenenis on both dms of the firm-
ing squ{e right qainst the edge oi tbe
thc metalir th€ ruor bh(le is very
b|ittle I jus! used r pan of nee(ilenose
pliers to snip oui a hg€f cenlerhole.
hrsed lhe tuof into the sarvkelt lionr
the side so tht brk ol the bladeis flush
lvith ihe botiom of the saN ke : (lle
carefulnot to tush the shalp edgeof thr
blade.)Then tishten do\vnthe bla(]€Nith
lhe machnrescre\L and nut.
\\rhen usnrs the scr.tpcr, .just push or
pull the scnper io scnrpcihc workpiece.
Ca Fei.l
( ho\'r Hill, N!|,Jtt\.ll
Ne\t loos.n Lhe miter gauge locking
knob and genUv snug the gauge up agan)si
fie fiunis squnre. Thc miter sause is
nolvsct at exactly '15'. Then,iightendo$'n
lhe locking knob ad Ioul€ r.eady t., cut J
15" mile..
To use the jis, align the lence so the
blade fiis inlo the ke|f slol. Insert the
dowelstockirto the concci dirmeter hole
unlil UrceDrlof the dowel is againstlhc
leDce. NoN holdtheiis anddos'elaDdcut
tbrough the dowcl. Slowly brck the jis
out, and push the finished dowelout th€
edgcof l.hc jis usinstheuncut dorvelsto(k.
Repeat lhc tl|ocodurc to get the same
r, S.hrtitl illtl
LoDlpoc.Cdtlbtitk!
Editots Note: This tip till r:ork orllt il
the sau bkd. is potr l.l u,ith th. ntittl
0atule slot. I.l the btkl. ;s na{ p.iall.L,
th. .t llts ate atua s xoiito to Le oll no
,ntt.r hor, r.ttectth. ,tit.r !fi lr has
beer set. Al$. <:lk(l; lo Dnkt srt. thal
ruur.[iflDti n sAtlotcis ltul! square.
SPOUTCAP
If )oule ahrars losins the snrallspoul
caps finm cont.incN of snull cans, gel
someheb lion electddrns.
I keep a larietr of the small diametef
elecl.rician's
Harcltl Sklldcr
Sktk Cal1.x., n, | | s ! lt\!| nt
t\Liston wire conneet.ors
(so'nelimes c,.Icd $'ir€ nuts) in the shop.
W}en I lose a capliom ncanorgluebottle.
I just scr€\roDoneofthese DitJ tlvist-on
RIGHI IENGIH ON sHORTDOWELS
I use quite a few short doirels fo. sluing
joinrs tosethef. And I've had morc than
just a iew problems cultins lafious sho(
lengths fmm n$ do\Lelstock.Tbc ten!,ths
are usudlv inconsistent.and sometimes,
whencuttirg the dowelson the bandsa\r,
they would be caughtbetrveenth€ blade
andthe rip lence.This not ody ruined the
dowel bul. becamea saiety hazrKt .rs \i€ll.
I rcsolved these problems by rnaling .]
verv simplejig from 2x4 stockthat can
.ul four ditr€rent sizeddow€l diameteN on
the band saw. The jis (a^s shown in the
dnwins in the niddle colmn) will also cut
otr dowels in 1l' increnents Lrpto 2" long.
To make lhjs jis, slart by cutting the
lhat I'!e beenusingfor
some time no\L s'ith gr€:rLsucccss.It's
ciled dcior bladnu and I use it tof r
va'iety of purposes- My main us€though
is to remole anX glue thrt sho$'sup \Lhile
stairing, especiallyalongl.he.dge seams
0n slued boarls or in lisht cornel.s.
The docto.bladeis a snrgb'edgedrazor
bladenount€d in a handle.The handleis
rnade 1r.rD a ,1,'r l.lrick piece of scnp
me&suing 1'l. wi{le by 6" long.
To make the handle fit comlbrtably in
your hand. d|aw a hnnd conlour on the
scmpaDdcut ii out on ihe b:lndsaw.Then
cut a 7."-deep bnnd saw ked in one end
to hotd i.hc blade. (Th€ band salv curs
abouLa %,,L$idekef.) You cu alsouse
It,rd Wrtt:tll
Da ir, Caricttit:tt
'IND IN YOUI IDEAS
tipwith other
teaderc ol Woodsnilh,send your idoa lo:
Woadsmilh,
lips & Techniqu€s,2200Grand
Ave.,DssMoin€s,
lowa50312.
We pay a hinimum ol$10fo.tips,and$15or
morelor special
?
Please give acohpl€testplana-
tionol youridea. lra skelchis ne6ded.ssndir
along;wo
lldraw a nsw ons.
WooDSMITH
CH'A? SCRAPER
Her€s a technique
llyoudlikeloshafeawoodwo.king
rehniques (lhat a.ea@ept€d
lor publicalion).
111362564.004.png
St"p_$too!
A STEP
IN THERIGHTDIRECTION
joint€.
EDGI€I.UETHESIOES
I besan by making the two side (leg)
piec€s.The trick to rnakingtwo miror€d
pieceiis to start with oru blanL see Fig
1. Ihen after aI the srooves are routed,
it'E cut in haf to cr€atethe two pieces.
cLUE-up.To nlak€ the blank, start by
edge-sluingthre€ pie€es of rx6 pine t
cr€it€ a blank thads musHy 16vt' wide
and29' lons.
c'ul'rt) sra. A.fterthe gluedri$, plane
or b€lt-sandthe blaDk flat. Then cut it to
a width of l4 and u" long, s€eFig. r.
IAY OUT I.INEs
Aft€r the blankis cut to size,two dadoes,
a groove, and a Ebbet are rout€d to join
the other piec€s of the stool,seeFig. r.
DADoEs.Stad by laying out a '/,Lwide
dado for the bottom step 6v;' ftom each
end.this is a stoppeddado,so rna* the
stop line Ya"ftom the ft0nt edge.
oRoovE. N€xt, lay out a Y,"-wide
gmovet hold the r;s€r. It'8 locat€d67."
from the front edge of the blank and
connects
[aTERtAtS ltsl
CUITING DIA9NAfl
fu-
OsElf Utuiiod: r/ w r lq'f d t 1{ h
A 5i& {2)
U. t 6L - re/.
H,Affi.;gw
I &tlF (r)
c sr.p 0)
L . l2'/r - r6q.
U.t, - r6L
D ldd( P.mf(l)
the two dadoes.
B cx naBBEr.Finally, lay out a rabbet
alongthe ba.k edgefor the ba.k panel.
The width of the rabbet shodd equalthe
thiclalels of your stock (%t.
ROUIERGUIOE
E ud 0)
Y.,e|A- lt
.IIO
Aft€r the layout is done, you can besin
Nuting. Tohelpalignthe cutsonthe lines,
I nade a sinple guide jig for the rcut€r.
Bud,D.[c. the jig is just a fencenailed
to an 8 -wide base of %" Masonite or
plywood, s€e Fig. 2. Rip a straight fence
and nail it to the bas€so the backedseis
Z' fton oneedge,se€Fig. 2. (Ihe z, lip is
us€dto clanp the jis to the wo*piece.)
cuT orr ErrcE.The nicepart abort the
jig is that you can use it t get perf€ct
alignmentwith your layoutlines.The key
is that the bit clrtson the edgeof the iig.
To a.mmplishthjs, mounta v1'straight
bit in the mut€r. then clanp the iig down
andlun the rcuter alongthe fen€eso th€
bit cutsthe wast€ofr the front edge. Now
NOIET
GIOOVE DETAIL
WOODSMITH
Lile is too shot. For a four year-old, that
meansyou needa stoolb€cause you're too
shortto re:ch the sinkto brush your teeth.
For an adult, it means you'r€ still using
the sane stool to re2cha[ the way ba&
on the t p sher of the kit h€n cabinets.
For this pmject, we used a basic aF
Dmach. The stepstoolis madeof cotmon
iine, which is another way of sayingit has
a "country look." The joinery is equaly
hsic tongueand groove
Y. t 11- rlL
111362564.005.png
the cut edge is exactlr" in line {'ith the path
of the bit, seeF's. 2.
ROUIING
Alicl. ihc jig js complcic,il.c:n be usedio
rout Lhetw.r dadoes,the gloove,and the
Bbb€t on the blank.
Rour D,{DoEs.Bcforc foul,ing, I
clamp€dthe sidc blank (A) on top of a
coupleof sawhoNes,see lig. :1. lheD I
clampedthe jis in place so its edse is
ilgled with lhe left edse of the lefi da.lo
iine, seeStep 1, Fig. L
S€l the depth of the router bit so it cuts
a 7" ieep groove in the blank taking into
considelaiion ihc thi(kness of the jig's
ba..e. (Shce the base of my jig wa^s '/a'
Lhick,I sel tlre depth of cut at L .)
Now set thc rcul.cragainstlhc lenccot
t}€ jig and cut the gaoove. nolirg 1r'on
the back edge of the blank lorvdrl the
ftont eilge,see Step I in Fig. L
ShopNote: Sincethe routcr bil is iulr-
ing cloch{ise, rcuting lhis directioDactu-
all)' pushes tlre muter base tight ag.rinst
NOTE:
srop THr,rDADo.This dado is stopped
'f," ftlm the front edge to keep iL nom
sho$ing on ihc frul. edgc of thc sl.ool.
Watch the la]oul lines andstop \Lhen the
bil touchcsthe stopline.
sEcoNDDADo,Nert, move th€ jig
do$n to the dado on the oiher end and
follo\Lthe sameprocedure, seeStep 2.
cRoovE. Afler these llvo dadoesafe
routed,tum lhejis90'and cinmpii sothe
edse aligns with the l.{out lirc fol the
gloole lor the riser. see Slet :. 'l'his
lroove stafts in the (lado oDthe left anil
stopsin ihe dadoon tht dshl.
ShopNote: hrsleadof trying to pluDge
the bit exaclll in the let dado,I plunged
lhe muler bii n liltle ahead (to rhe dghr)
ofthe dado.Then I hekl the muler firnlv
andmovedit back\Lddsuntilit brokeinto
5IIL3
aAcx RAaBET,The l,6t thing is io roul
th€ r.lbbel lbr the back paDel. Sinceihis
rabbel is /. u'ide,andthe bit is vJ'wide,
it hlls lo be rculed in two slels.
first, align the edgeofthe iig sith the
insi{le Layout line and rout a ,/j !vi.l€
gloole, see Sicp .1. Then mole l.hc jis
towdrl Iou about v;' aDdnrake another
p:l5sl.o clean out th€ femainjng \raste, see
Fig. 5.
CUI BLANKIN HALF
After thc fouling is complele, Jou cancut
lhe blank in half io crl.!:liclwo minored
side pieces. To do this, slait bI rough
cutting the blank in haLI\rith lhe mitcr
gauge on lhe lable sarv-
To get ih€ hvo side lieces to r.tr(:ll a lht:
sa,ie finished length. set the rip lence
13'rL"from ihe biade, see Fi!i. 6. Then
cut eachpiecewith lhc ,o?lori cdgc
against the Iip hnce.
WooDSIIITH
111362564.001.png
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