Bed - Pencil Post Bed.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - jarmush

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PENCIL BED

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Materials List

Pencil-post bed

Key No.

Size and Description (use)

A 4

2 3/4 x 2 3/4 x 80" cherry (post)

B 1

1 x 16 x 60 3/4" cherry (headboard)

C 2

1 1/4 x 6 1/2 x 60 3/4" cherry (end rail)

D 2

1 1/4 x 6 1/2 x 80 3/4" cherry (side rail)

E 2

1 x 5 x 58 1/4" poplar (end support rail)

F 2

1 x 5 x 79" poplar (side support rail)

G 2

1 3/8 x 4 x 80 3/4" poplar (side support)

H 14

3/4 x 5 x 60 3/4" maple (slat)

The Posts

Begin by preparing the blanks for the

bedposts. Glue up stock if necessary, then

joint, rip and crosscut the blanks to 2 3/4

in. wide € 80 in. long. Use a long

straightedge to lay out the tapers on each

side of the posts ( Photo 1 ). The taper on

the inside edge of the headboard posts

begins 15 in. higher than the other tapers.

This allows for a square joint with the

headboard.

1 Rip and crosscut the post blanks, and

use a long straightedge to mark the taper.

Also mark the mortise positions.

Lay out and cut the mortises in each post

at this point -- it's easier to do this now,

while the posts are straight, than after the

tapers are cut. The quickest way to cut the

post mortises is by using a plunge router

with a 1/2-in.-dia. straight bit. Clamp the

workpiece between bench dogs, and use

an edge guide on the router to make the

cut ( Photo 2 ). Cut each mortise in two or

three passes to avoid overloading the

router. After making each cut, use a sharp

chisel to chop the mortise square ( Photo

3 ).

To make the bed easier to move, its joints

are bolted together rather than glued. This

construction requires that you bore a hole

through the mortise bottoms and bore a

matching hole into the tenons on the rails

and headboard. Use the drill press to bore

the 3/8-in.-dia. holes through the rail

mortises and the 1/4-in.-dia. holes through

the post mortises for the headboard.

2 Cut the post mortises before sawing the

tapers. Use a plunge router or bore out

the mortises on the drill press.

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Use the band saw to cut the tapers on

each post. Note that the tapers are also

marked on the posts' ends ( Photo 4 ). Cut

two tapers, then use the marks on the

ends of the posts to draw the tapers on the

newly sawed surfaces. Also, use a roller

stand or have a second person help you

when sawing the tapers. The posts are

simply too long to saw without support.

Use a sharp and finely set hand plane to

smooth the cut surfaces and to refine the

tapers ( Photo 5 ).

Next, use a Forstner or multispur bit to

counterbore the bolt holes on the outside

surface of each post ( Photo 6 ). Then use

a countersink to recess the holes for the

headboard screws.

3 Clamp the posts firmly to the bench, and

chop the ends of the post mortises square

using a sharp chisel.

Cut the 3/8-in.-wide chamfers along the

tapered edges of each post using a

chamfer bit in the router. The chamfers on

the inside post corners run the length of

the post, while the remaining chamfers are

stopped just above the point where the

rails join the post. Use a sharp plane or

chisel to cut the chamfers at the top of

each post.

4 Saw two tapers, then use the marks on

the ends of the posts to redraw the tapers

on the sawed surfaces.

5 Smooth the sawed surfaces and refine

the taper with a hand plane. Set the plane

to take a fine shaving.

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6 Counterbore the bed bolt holes and

headboard screwholes in the posts. Use a

Forstner bit in the drill press.

The Headboard and Rails

Rip, crosscut and joint the stock for the

headboard so it forms an oversize blank.

Also rip, crosscut and joint the stock for the

bed rails and the support rails.

Position the headboard stock so it forms a

blank with the grain positioned attractively,

then mark it for joining plate slots 6 in. to 8

in. on center along the mating board

edges. Don't position a plate too close to

the blank edge -- you might expose the

plate when cutting the headboard to

shape. Hold the headboard pieces firmly to

a flat, clean worksurface, center the plate

joiner on the mark and make the plunge

cut (Photo 7).

Apply glue to the board edges, slots and

the biscuits. Clamp the assembly, and

when the glue sets, plane and scrape it

smooth.

The headboard joins the two front posts

with two tenons that run nearly the width of

the headboard. To ensure tight-fitting

joints, it's important that the headboard be

perfectly rectangular. Crosscut the

headboard blank on the radial-arm saw or

table saw. With either machine, be sure

you are making a square cut.

Cut the tenons on the ends of the

headboard and on the bed rails using the

dado blade in the table saw (Photo 8). The

headboard and rails have shoulders on the

top and bottom of the tenon. To cut the

shoulders on the rails, readjust the blade

height on the table saw, stand the rail on

edge and cut the shoulder. The headboard

shoulders are cut later with a handsaw.

Lay out the curved shape of the

headboard, and make the cut with a sabre

saw just to the outside of the line. Clamp

7 Rip and crosscut the headboard stock

oversize. Cut joining plate slots in the

stock, then glue and clamp the stock.

8 Saw the headboard tenons using a

dado head on the table saw. The tenon

width here requires great accuracy.

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