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DUBROVNIK
“In Your Pocket:
A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Summer 2011
Ruđer Bošković
One of the world’s greatest
scientists
The pearl of the
Adriatic
Glorious island getaways to rural
ecotourism
N°8
- complimentary copy
www.inyourpocket.com
ForeWord
Contents
4
5
The pearl of the Adriatic is set to shine this summer for
Dubrovnik really is a rarity in terms of architecture and
history. Indeed your first glimpse of the town, especially when
descending along the airport road can easily turn out to be a
heart-stopping, love-at-first-sight experience.
These striking ancient walls that you see in front of you
have guarded the city’s Renaissance churches, fortresses,
palaces, stone alleyways and ports for centuries. And as you
meander through the Old Town, and possibly twinkle your
fingers by gasping, ‘all I need is my Prince Charming to arrive
on his horse,’ you come to the realisation that this is not a
dream but reality.
Indeed with the tourist numbers growing exponentially so are
th e cul tu ral a n d gastron omi c o f fers th at wai t. O n e o f th e lates t
attractions is the Dubrovnik Cable Car which takes you 778m
to the top of Srđ Hill. The ride offers breathtaking views of the
Old Town, stunning coastal sights and magnificent sunsets.
Perfect for panoramic snaps to add to the memoirs!
For that hi-tech touch, the new Multimedia Museum offers
projections which take visitors through an inventive view of
Dubrovnik’s past and present via 5D technology and futuristic
holographic screenings.
This year is also the 300th anniversary since the birth of
Ruđer Bošković, a great scientist, philosopher, astronomer,
diplomat, poet and theologian of his time. He is one of the
city’s greatest sons and his hometown is organising a grand
exhibition in celebrating the occasion.
Amongst all the things to do and see including the fever pitch
days with tourists and temperatures soaring until the sun
fa d es a n d eveni n g arri ves. Take th e ti m e to stroll a n d em b ra c e
your stay, get in with the lingo as ‘dobar dan’ and ‘dobro večer’
become a part of you for at least a short time.
The World In Your Pocket
Northern
Ireland
Ireland
Estonia
Russia
Latvia
Lithuania
Contents
Belarus
Arriving in Dubrovnik
6
Netherlands
Poland
Where the action is
Introducing Dubrovnik
Germany
Ukraine
Czech
Republic
8
What’s it all about?
Glossary
Austria
Switzerland
Romania
9
Slovenia
Croatia
Don’t get caught with your trousers down
Culture & Events
Bosnia
Serbia
Bulgaria
10
Montenegro
Kosovo
Go crazy!
Where to stay
FYR Macedonia
Albania
16
Greece
Home sweet home
Restaurants
22
In Your Pocket
has broken much new ground of
late, publishing new guides in the
Netherlands
(
Tilburg
, with
Amsterdam
to follow very soon), in
Austria
(
Vienna
), in
Croatia
(
Šibenik
), in
Swit-
zerland
(
Zurich
) and in
Belarus
(
Minsk
). This
year will also se e th e first n on -European
Pockets
rolled out in
South Africa
and
Mozambique
.
We also continue to roll out
iPhone apps
to all
our cities. We will be launching even more
In Your
Pocket
guides as apps throughout this year: to
find out which cities we will be covering, and to
keep up to date with all
In Your Pocket
news,
like
In Your Pocket
on
Facebook
(facebook.com/
inyourpocket) or
follow
us on
Twitter
(t wi t ter.
com/inyourpocket).
For the gourmet that lies within
Cafés
Croatia’s premier oyster-producing area is at Ston, not far
from Dubrovnik. So don’t miss the chance to slurp these
delicacies fresh from the crystal Adriatic!
31
Cover story
Sipping Mediterranean style
Nightlife
The tranquil shades of the
blue sea set amongst this
rocky island presents a touch
of serenity. The island is called
Glavat and is part of a group
of islands called Vrhovnjaci,
situated between the islands of
Mljet and Lastovo.
31
Mail & Phones
46
Because you‘re just so groovy
What to see
“I just call to say I luuuurve you...”
35
Getting around
47
Those sights explained
An explorer’s bible
Sport
43
Shopping
49
Diving and horseback riding
Take a little piece of my heart
Business Directory
54
Editorial
Editor
Višnja Arambašić
Contributors
Nataly Anderson,
Jonathan Kawaguchi, Frank Jelinčić,
Renata Kontrec, Paul Bergen, Tocher
Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield
Assistant Editor
Kristina Kovač
Researcher
Anita Piplović
Layout & Design
Ivana Novak, Gordan
Karabogdan, Maja Vidović
Photos
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team,
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist
Board, Mljet Tourist Board, Marko
Lokas, Marin Šperanda, Eugen Miljan
Sales & Circulation
General Manager
Višnja Arambašić
Sales & Circulation Manager
Kristijan Vukičević
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
Account Manager
Mirna Cindrić
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra
1992 - 2011. Maps copyright of the
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name
In Your
Pocket
is used under license from
UAB
In Your Pocket
(Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editor’s note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearly marked as such. We welcome all
readers‘ comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Editorial
Banks and stuff
Lifestyle Directory
55
Important numbers
Dubrovnik Neretva County
Dubrovnik In Your Pocket
Draškovićeva 66
Zagreb, Croatia
tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70
fax (+385-1) 492 39 24
zagreb@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1846-0852
©Plava Ponistra d.o.o.
Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja
Cover:
Dubrovnik-Neretva County
Tourist Board
56
Out and about around the city
Maps & Index
County map
66
Street index
67
City map
68
City centre map
70
Index
72
With concerts, festivals and performances galore, summer
in Dubrovnik is a feast for the senses. Photo by Orlando
Club
Country map
73
Dubrovnik
In Your Pocket
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Summer 2011
arrIvInG In dubrovnIk
6
By car
For the time being, there is no motorway to Dubrovnik.
Considering how narrow non-motorway roads are, you’re
safest sticking with the motorway as far as Split. Do be aware
that during weekends approaching August, all roads become
catastrophically busy, especially at borders, motorway toll
booths and tunnels. Avoid weekends! To approach Dubrovnik,
you can either travel:
Via Split
: From Split, follow signs for Dubrovnik leading you
inland. (Avoid the coast road passing through Omiš, a terrible
bottleneck). Just south of Metković you pass through a
corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzegovina, so keep your
passport or ID card handy.
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina
: You can enter “BiH” from the A3
(E70) heading east from Zagreb, or one of the roads heading
south from Hungar y. Of the possible routes, Bosanska
Gradiška - Banja Luka - Jajce - Mostar is probably quickest, but
you may wish to take a detour through the fair city of Sarajevo.
When you get into Dubrovnik, a one way system leads east
and west of the Old Town - try to have a map handy! Check
out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr for
traffic information.
By plane
Čilipi Airport is located 20km southeast of
Dubrovnik. I t’s small, clean and functional. There is a
restaurant and café, plus information, exchange offices and
ATMs, a post office and car hire facilities are all to be found in
the arrivals hall. Parking costs 40kn for the first 24 hours, and
2kn per hour thereafter. The pay machine for the car park is
in the arrivals hall and accepts credit cards.
Getting to town
:
Scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus which trundles into
town (35kn one-way), dropping off at Pile Gate (main entrance
to the Old Town) before proceeding to the ferry port and the
bus station. Municipal buses no. 11 and 27 also connect the
airport to the town centre (20kn), but only run a few times a
day. A taxi ride into town will cost 200 - 250kn.
Dubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle, Flight info tel. 77 33
33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.
By train
Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic
narrow-gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed
to learn that the track was pulled up long ago. Those
who are determined to travel by rail can still catch a train
to either Split (services from Zagreb), or Ploče (services
from Zagreb, Sarajevo and Mostar) before continuing their
journey by bus.
Tourist information
Tourist Information Centres
Gruž
I-2, Obala Stjepana Radića 32,
tel. (+385-20) 41 79 83, ured.gruz@
tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
Q
Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Lapad
G-2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 3,
tel. (+385-20) 43 74 60, ured.lapad@tzdubrovnik.hr,
www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
Q
Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Pile
C-2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, ured.
pile@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.tzdubrovnik.hr.
Q
June,
September Open 08:00 - 20:00. Jul y, August Open
08:00 - 22:00.
Tourist Boards
Dubrovnik-Neretva County Tourist Board
I-3,
Vukovarska 24, tel. (+385-20) 32 49 99, info@
visitdubrovnik.hr, www.visitdubrovnik.hr.
Q
Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Dubrovnik Tourist Board
D-2, Brsalje 5, tel.
(+385-20) 32 38 87, info@tzdubrovnik.hr, www.
tzdubrovnik.hr.
Q
Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat,
Sun.
Arriving in Dubrovnik
By boat
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik - the centuries
old harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town and the
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town.
Many grumble it’s not the most attractive place in the
world, but there are plenty of amenities for weary travellers.
Hotel Petka right behind the quayside has great food, good
accommodation and you can take a bath or shower there.
There’s a fruit market, a large Konzum supermarket, and
loads of small shops and travel agencies etc. The port
looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of Dubrovnik’s
hotels are located.
Getting to town
: hop on an orange bus
number 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a single trip costs 10kn
if you buy it from a news kiosk, 12kn if you buy it on board.
Tickets must be cancelled in the machine next to the driver
immediately on boarding.
By bus
The city has a new coach station close to the Gruž
harbour. Sparkling clean, it’s a short walk from the ferry
terminal at Gruž with all its amenities.
Ticket office
: open
05:30 - 22:30, tel. 060 30 50 70 for information.
Changing
money:
head east for Gruž habour, where there are ATMs
and exchange bureaux.
Toilets
: inside the terminal, cost 3kn.
Left luggage
: the
garderoba
works 04:30 - 22:30, 5kn per
hour, every next hour you pay 1.5kn.
Public phones
are on
the platform.
Shops and cafes
: there is a news kiosk, plus
a large Konzum supermarket next door (open 07:00 - 21:00,
Sun 08:00 - 14:00).
Getting to town
: buses to town stop
right outside the station, take line 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. Tickets
cost 12kn from the driver or 10kn if you buy them in a kiosk
or in a ticket office.
Taxis
wait by the platform, or call 0800
09 70.
Basic data
Population:
Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460
Dubrovnik Neretva County: 122.870
Dubrovnik (April 2001): 30.436
Territory:
Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.
It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Monte-
negro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border
with Italy.
Dalmatian coast:
The coast is the main tourist attrac-
tion for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some
of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named
some of its most pure!
Dubrovnik Neretva County:
Dubrovnik Neretva County
measures 1.783km2, of which roughly half is sea.
Islands:
An amazing 1.246 islands lie off the Dalmatian
coast, 47 of them inhabited.
Climate:
Mediterranean
Local time:
Croatia is part of the Central European Time
Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Dubrovnik it is 12:00
in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in
Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.
Download free instant guide!
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik
In Your Pocket
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
IntroduCInG dubrovnIk
Glossary
8
9
Climate
National holidays
January 1
New Year’s Day
Temperature, °C
Rainfall,
mm
January 6
Epiphany
30
100
April 8 2012
Easter
April 9 2012
Easter Monday
20
10
75
May 1
International Workers' Day
June 7 2012
Corpus Christi
June 22
Anti Fascist Resistance Day
50
June 25
Statehood Day
0
August 5
Victory and Homeland
Thanksgiving Day
25
-10
August 15
Feast of the Assumption
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
-20
0
October 8
Independence Day
November 1
All Saints’ Day
December 25
Christmas
December 26
Saint Stephen’s Day
Toilets
Public toilets are few and far between - a far better option
is to take the excuse to pop into a cafe for a drink and avail
yourself of their facilites. There is a public toilet in the street
Iza grada, just behind the city walls near the Pile gates. They’re
Turkish style (squatty) but clean - and free.
Roads
If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0.0% alcohol rule applies
to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0.5%
applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave
it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but
given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will
probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed
kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed
traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed
patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The
speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked;
80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the
spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any
reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car
registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure
to always keep them with you.
Customs
All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna
equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed
to take them back when you leave. Keep your receipts (500kn
minimum on one receipt) in order to qualify for a VAT refund at
all border customs offices. To breeze through customs you can
import up to 200 cigarettes, 1 litre of strong alcohol and 2 litres
of wine, liqueur or champagne. There are no limits on export;
however it does depend on the country you’re flying into from
Croatia. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export
approval before departure. It is issued by the conservatory
department of the Ministry of Culture at C. Zuzorić 6 (C-3, Open
08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tel. 020 32 31 91). For further
details www.carina.hr or call 01 610 23 25 / 01 610 24 61.
Electricity
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical
appliances.
Health & Safety
The Dalmatian coast is safe and secure, but a cautious eye
should be kept on one’s belongings at all times, nevertheless.
The Police
(policija)
are generally helpful in times of crisis;
keep in mind that they also perform occasional checks of
identity documents, so keep some identification on you at
all times.
Money
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards,
but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash
on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the
area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount
of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places
that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.
Customs
It’s easy to understand why the people of Dubrovnik are proud
of their city – it just takes one look. It takes a little more effort,
however, to understand how deeply this pride runs, and how
many, how varied and how rich and justified are the reasons
for this pride. And, thank goodness, it manifests itself in a
way that is very easy to love: the people of Dubrovnik are
known for their gallantry and hospitality. It’s not an empty
or boastful pride.
it seriously rivalled Venice’s dominance in the region. And
during the heyday of the city’s development, art and culture
flourished, leading to a love for harmony in one’s surroundings,
a love of music, and a love of literature which much shaped
the language of Croatian that we can hear today.
This love of beauty is visible with every step in the Old Town,
this living museum and famous World Heritage site. It can
be seen in the galleries, on the theatre stages, and in its
annual culmination at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, this
year held for the 62nd time. It can also be heard – this is a
city of music too, of classical music, but also taking care of
the folk vernacular of the coast and hinterland.
Why does the city look the way it does? Why all those walls
and bastions? It was first of all a refugee colony for the people
of Epidaurum (today’s Cavtat), who fled from invading Avar
and Slav tribes. At that time the land south of Stradun, as the
main thoroughfare through the Old Town is popularly called,
was an island, offering some protection from attack, but,
of course, the walls began to rise giving those first fearful
citizens their shelter.
Beauty is only skin deep, and this will to harmonise also
manifested itself in a rather liberal political system which, for
example, abolished slavery at a very early stage (1418). And
alongside this respect for humanitarian concerns naturally
came, the love of freedom. That’s why you’ll so often see
the word “Libertas” emblazoned on everything from flags to
the sides of buses.
That was in the 7th century. At that time, these lands were
under the protection of Byzantium. Following the Crusades,
Venice took over, and then the Croatian-Hungarian kingdom.
But in the 14th century, by the force of skilled diplomacy, the
nobles of Dubrovnik bargained their freedom, and this became
a city-state which flourished for four centuries, maintaining
independence from feared invaders such as the Turks, and,
indeed, cultivating profitable relations with them.
It’s hard to believe that this miraculous freedom of the tiny
Republic of Ragusa, and this economic and political might
lasted all the way to the beginning of the 19th century when
the Dubrovnik nobles were tricked by Napoleon to letting his
armies into the city in 1806. So it’s no surprise that the sense
of individuality and collective pride is still so strong. It results,
happily for visitors, in a very unique, visible and well-preserved
culture that’s a joy to uncover.
Take a hike!
Tipping
Generally, Croatian people are not overly concerned about
tipping, but seeing how you’re a visitor to the country and
all, you can practice some small-time diplomacy and throw a
bit of goodwill to your server. Croatian people typically round
their bill up to the nearest whole number when they want to
tip, but leaving 10% for the staff’s efforts seems like a classy
thing for a visitor to do, doesn’t it?
Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.
In Dubrovnik, the first walk you have to take is around
the city walls, but that’s for babies, only two kilometres.
After that, a favourite walk is around the Lapad peninsula,
or to the top of one of its highest points, Velika or Mala
Petka. Very much more demanding is a walk up Mount
Srđ (412m) – a two hour climb, but with the prospect
of the city laid out at your feet as your reward. Konavle
has some good walking routes taking in villages, peaks,
remains and coastal vistas: pop into the tourist office
in Cavtat for a map.
The skill of the people of Dubrovnik in trade and in many other
areas led to this tiny city state, then known as the Republic of
Ragusa, becoming such a powerful force in the Adriatic that
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Summer 2011
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