Cabinet - Hi-Fi Cabinet.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

SURROUND

SOUND

Furniture for your stereo.

Our cabinet stores modern stereo components neatly out of sight. With the door shut, it looks like a

traditional Arts & Crafts hutch.

There is a staggering variety of stereo systems available

today, and depending on your finances and your level of

enthusiasm in these matters, you can spend hundreds or

thousands of dollars on equipment. For serious

audiophiles, the sleek, black cases of stacked stereo

components are the only way to go. But most of us would

rather shut the works behind closed doors and concentrate

on the music.

Our Arts & Crafts style cabinet is a perfect home for a basic

stereo system. It easily accommodates a receiver, CD and

tape players. And although high-technology audio

components are the preferred means for many people to

play music today, we kept in mind that many others are

loathe to give up their vinyl collections. For that reason we

have provided space for a turntable on top and a shelf for a

modest LP collection as well. There are also two drawers,

one for tapes and one for CDs. In keeping with traditional

Arts & Crafts pieces, we used quarter-sawn white oak for

the cabinet. If you have trouble locating quarter-sawn oak

where you live, one mail-order supplier is Talarico

Hardwoods, RD 3, Box 3268, Mohnton, PA 19540; 610-

75-0400.

Building The Case

Rip and crosscut stock for the case rails and

shelves, but leave each workpiece a bit oversize,

so you can trim the glued-together panels to

finished dimension after the glue has set. Joint

the edge of each workpiece straight and square,

and lay out the joining-plate slots spaced

approximately 6 in. on center. Hold the plate

joiner and the workpiece tightly to the surface of

the workbench, and cut the slots (Photo 1).

Cut joining-plate slots in the boards’

edges. The plates keep the boards

aligned while they are being glued and

clamped.

Spread glue in the slots, along the edges of the

workpieces and on the joining plates (Photo 2).

Position the plates and assemble a panel. Clamp

the panel to pull the joints tight, then check that

the panel is flat. Next, glue up the 1/2-in.-thick

stock for the side and door panels. It's not a good

idea to use joining plates to align the joints on

these thinner panels because the plate joint may

be visible after the panel is finished.

To ensure a properly bonded joint, apply

glue to the joining-plate slots, the board

edges and the joining plates.

Prepare the rest of the stock for the case parts.

Rip, crosscut and joint all parts to finished

dimension, including the previously glued-up

panels. Label each part to indicate the face side

and orientation in the case. Lay out the mortises

in the case side stiles by clamping the stiles

together, then mark across their edges (Photo 3).

Lay out the mortises in the case stiles by

clamping the workpieces together, and

mark across them using a square.

Use a plunge router with a 1/2-in.-dia. up-cutting

bit and an edge guide to cut the mortises (Photo

4). Clamp two stiles together before routing to

provide a stable surface for the router, and cut the

mortise in two or three passes.

Clamp two stiles together to form a base

for a plunge router, and cut the stile

mortises using a spiral up-cutting bit.

While you have the router out, readjust its depth

of cut, and cut the panel grooves in the stile

edges. Readjust the router again to cut the panel

grooves in the side rails, and then chop the ends

of the mortises square using a chisel (Photo 5).

With a stile held securely to the bench,

use a chisel and mallet to cut the rounded

ends of each mortise square.

Install dado blades in the table saw and cut the

tenons on the side rails. Since the rails are quite

wide, the tenons are divided into two separate

pieces. Begin by cutting one wide tenon on each

end of the rails (Photo 6). Cut the tenons slightly

oversize, and then pare them smooth with a

razor-sharp chisel. Divide each tenon into two

sections by making a rectangular cutout in the

center using a handsaw and chisel.

With a clamp on the miter gauge serving

as a workpiece stop, cut the side rail

tenons with dado blades in the table saw.

Next, set the table saw blade to cut a 45-degree

bevel, and cut the chamfered ends on the side

stiles (Photo 7). Use the miter gauge to guide the

work. Test fit the joints for each case side and

make adjustments as necessary. Sand the side

panels with 120-, 150-, 180- and 220-grit

sandpaper before assembly.

Set the table saw blade to 45 degrees,

place a stile against the miter gauge, and

cut the chamfer on each edge of the stile.

To assemble a cabinet side, spread glue in the

stile mortises and on the rail tenons, then join the

rails to one stile. Slide the panel into position

(Photo 8) , but be sure not to get any glue on the

panel's edge or its groove. Now you can place the

second stile in position and clamp the assembly.

Assemble the case sides by applying glue

only to the mortises and tenons, not in the

anel groove or on the panel edge.

Cut the rounded top corners on the back rail using

a sabre saw. Mark the locations of the joining-

plate slots in the rail and top shelf, and then cut

the slots. Dry assemble the two pieces (Photo 9).

Next, spread glue in the slots, on the plates and

on the edge of the glue joint, and clamp the two

parts together.

After you have cut the joining-plate slots

in the top shelf and back rail, test fit the

pieces, then glue and clamp them

together.

Cut out the notches in the middle shelf, mark the

position of the shelf dowel holes, and then use a

doweling jig to bore the holes (Photo 10). When

you've completed this, bore matching holes in the

case side stiles. Finish laying out the joining-plate

slots in the bottom shelf and case sides, then cut

the slots. Clamp a straightedge to the sides to

position the plate joiner.

Make the center case shelf, cut the

notches in its ends, and bore the holes in

the notches using a doweling jig.

Next, use the router and edge guide to cut the

rabbet along the back edge of the top rail/shelf

assembly (Photo 11) and along the back edges

of the case sides. Use a chisel to square the

rabbet ends. Mark the hinge mortise outlines on

the case, and cut the outline using a chisel and a

marking gauge. Pare the mortise to depth with a

chisel. If you plan to set a turntable on the top

shelf of the case, you should bore a hole through

the shelf for a wire grommet. (See the materials

list for grommet information.) The grommet we

used requires a 1 3/4-in.-dia. hole.

Using the router with an edge guide,

make two or three passes, and cut the

rabbet on the top rail/shelf assembly.

To assemble the case, spread glue in the plate

slots, dowel holes and on the dowels and plates,

then join the shelves to one of the case sides

(Photo 12). Take care not to get any glue on the

portion of the middle shelf that abuts the side

panels. The panels must be free to expand and

contract seasonally, and a glue bond will cause a

panel to crack when this happens. With a helper,

position the other side over the ends of the

shelves, and then clamp the assembly. Compare

opposite diagonal measurements on the case to

check for square, then let the glue cure.

Apply glue to the slots, dowel holes,

joining plates and dowels, then assemble

the shelves to one case side.

Glue together two pieces of 3/4-in.-thick plywood

to form the drawer blocking, then glue a solid oak

strip to the block as a facing. Note that the grain

on the facing should run horizontally to match the

drawer faces. Screw the blocking to the case side

(Photo 13).

Cut a piece of 1/2-in.-thick oak plywood to size for

the case back, then lay out the position of the

vent-grille cutout. Drill clearance holes at the

corners of the cutout, and use a sabre saw to

remove the waste. Fasten the grille to the back

with escutcheon pins, and remember to bore a 1

1/2-in.-dia. hole in the back for power cord

access. Finally, screw the back to the case.

The drawer blocking is made from two

pieces of plywood with solid oak facing.

Screw the blocking to the case side.

Making Drawers

Rip and crosscut the drawer parts. Install a

dovetail bit in the router, and set the router to

make a 1/4-in.-deep cut. Cut the dovetail dado in

the drawer sides and the stopped dado in the

drawer face (Photo 14).

Clamp each drawer front to the

workbench, and then use a router and

dovetail bit to cut the dovetail dadoes.

Clamp a tall fence to the router table, and clamp a

backup block to each drawer side and back when

you cut the dovetail on these parts (Photo 15).

The backup block--rather than the workpiece--

tears out when it exits the bit.

Next, use a router and edge guide to cut the

drawer bottom grooves in the drawer sides and

the stopped groove in the drawer face.

Cut the drawer side’s dovetail in the router

table. Clamp a backup block to the side,

then move the side over the bit.

After marking the curved cutout on the drawer

faces, make the cuts with a sabre saw. Use a

router and cove bit to shape the edge of the

cutout (Photo 16).

Next, apply glue to the mating parts of the drawer

joints, and then slide the parts together--you

should not need to clamp the assembly. Now rip

and crosscut the plywood bottom panels and

screw each bottom to the drawer back.

Cut out the profile on the top edge of each

drawer front. Next, use the router to cut

the cove along the edge.

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