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FIRST STEPS

WINEMAKING

A complete month-by-month guide to winemaking (including

the production of cider, perry and mead) and beer brewing at

home, with over 130 tried and tested recipes

3rd EDITION

6th IMPRESSION

C. J. J. BERRY

(Editor, The Amateur Winemaker)

"The Amateur Winemaker," North Croye, The Avenue,

Andover, Hants

About this book

THIS little book really started as a collection of recipes, reliable recipes which had

appeared in the monthly magazine, " The Amateur Winemaker. " First published in January 1960,

it was an instant and phenomenal success, for a quarter of a million copies have been sold, and

it is now recognised as the best "rapid course" in winemaking available to the beginner.

This new edition has the advantage of modern format, and better illustrations, and the

opportunity has been taken to introduce new material and bring the book right up to date.

Those who are in need of recipes, and who have probably just fallen under the spell of

this fascinating hobby of ours, will also want to know more of its technicalities, so this book

includes a wealth of practical tips and certain factual information that any winemaker would

find useful. In particular, the hydrometer, ignored in many books on winemaking, has been dealt

with simply but adequately, and there is a really practical section on "home-brew" beers and

ales . . . you will find this small book a mine of useful knowledge.

The original recipes are there, over 130 of them, with quite a few others, and they are all

arranged in the months of their making, so that you can pursue your winemaking all the year

round with this veritable Winemakers' Almanac. Further up-to-date recipes appear in the

companion volumes, "130 New Winemaking Recipes" and "Home-Brewed Beers and Stouts"

"Making Wines Like Those you Buy" and "Making Mead" (each 5/-, post 8 d .).

I hope you will enjoy this book as much as I have enjoyed writing it . . . best wishes for

successful winemaking!

C. J. J. BERRY.

Wine vocabulary

AEROBIC FERMENTATION: A fermentation conducted in the presence of air. Usually the

first part of the fermentation process.

ANAEROBIC FERMENTATION : A fermentation from which air is excluded; the second part

of the fermentation process.

BODY : The fullness of a wine.

CAMPDEN TABLETS : Useful in winemaking for various sterilisation or purification purposes.

They supply sulphur dioxide in convenient form.

CARBON DIOXIDE: The colourless, odourless gas given off by a fermenting liquor.

DRY : A wine is said to be dry when all the sugar in it has been used up by the fermentation: it is

also said to have "fermented right out"

FERMENTING (or "working"): The process brought about by yeast acting upon sugar to

produce alcohol and carbon dioxide,

FERMENTATION TRAP (or Am LOCK): A little gadget used to protect the fermentation

from Infection by the vinegar fly. Also called a "bubbler."

FINING : Removing suspended solids from a cloudy wine by filtering or adding wine finings.

FLOGGER : A wooden tool for banging corks home.

FORTIFICATION : Increasing the strength of wine beyond that possible by natural

fermentation by adding spirit.

HYDROMETER : An instrument for measuring the weight (or sugar content) of a liquid.

HYDROMETER JAR : The jar in which a hydrometer is floated for a reading to be taken.

JELLY-BAG : For straining wines thoroughly.

LEES : The deposit of yeast and solids formed during fermentation.

LIQUOR : The unfermented, sugar-containing liquid which will eventually be wine.

MALO-LACTIC FERMENTATION : See p. 36.

MUST : The pulp or combination of basic ingredients from which a wine is made.

NUTRIENT : Nitrogenous matter added to the liquor to boost the action of the yeast; yeast food.

PROOF : Proof spirit contains 57.1% alcohol. 70 deg. proof really means 70% of proof spirit.

Thus ordinary proprietary bottles of spirit will contain only 40% alcohol by volume

RACKING : Siphoning the wine off the lees to clear and stabilise it.

STABLE : A wine is said to be stable when there is no danger of further fermentation.

STOPPER : A cork or polythene bottle closure with a projecting cap.

VINEGAR : Wine which has "gone wrong."

VINEGAR FLY : The winemaker's biggest enemy. If a vinegar . fly gets at your wine it may turn

to vinegar.

A fascinating craft

IF you are toying with the idea of trying your hand at winemaking, delay no longer. Go

right ahead! By so doing you will be joining the thousands of happy folk who, in recent years,

have discovered this intriguing and rewarding hobby. It is, indeed, a pastime which truly "brings

its own rewards," for there can be few pleasures to equal that of being able to offer a friend, and

enjoy with him, a glass of one's own wine.

In post-war years there has been an astonishing revival of home winemaking in Britain;

wine, it is true, has been made here for centuries, but sugar scarcity during World War II and lack

of opportunity debarred many from taking up the pastime, and it was left to the few to keep our

craft alive. Now, however, it is attracting the interest of thousands, and scientific developments

and the spread of wine-making knowledge have made it possible for anyone to produce a

palatable wine in their own home.

There is absolutely no restriction upon how much wine you make as long as it is entirely

for your own consumption, but not a drop of it must be sold, or you will be in trouble with the

law. Nor must you distil, a practice which is both dangerous in that alcohols which are not safely

potable may be produced, and illegal, carrying very heavy penalties. You may also brew at home

as much duty-free beer as you like, but not a drop of it must be sold , since no duty has been paid

upon it.

What you will need

DO not, at the outset, buy a lot of expensive equipment: it is better to start making wine

with what you have—you probably have in your kitchen already some of the essentials—and

then to acquire the rest by stages as the necessity arises. For a start you will undoubtedly need

some kind of boiler, and if you can lay your hands on one that will hold three to five gallons it

will prove ideal. Failing that, you can "make do" with a one-gallon or one-and-a-half-gallon

saucepan.

Avoid containers and utensils of iron, brass and copper, which may be affected by acid

and impart hazes and flavours to your wine; use only boilers of aluminium or sound

—unchipped—enamel ware.

You will also need a large vessel in which to do your soaking, or mashing, and one of

three to five gallons is ideal. The most commonly used nowadays is a plastic dustbin, since it is

cheap, easy to clean and store, and light to handle, and when it splits or is useless for winemaking

it can start doing duty as a dustbin! Alternatively you can use an earthenware crock of some sort.

Tall, cylindrical ones are the most convenient, since they are easier to cover and take up

less floor space than the "bread-pan" variety. They should be hard salt-glazed, since lead glaze

can have poisonous results. True, it is rarely encountered on domestic vessels nowadays but one

does occasionally come across it on very old ones, or on those of Middle Eastern origin, so this

warning needs to be issued! Salt glaze is hard, but lead glaze is soft, and can be dented with the

thumbnail. You probably already have a polythene bucket, and will find this extremely useful for

small quantities; polythene vessels are excellent for winemaking.

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