Modelling_-_Making_Ruined_Buildings.pdf

RUINED!

He’s at it again! You can’t turn around at the GW Studio without

tripping over a piece of Nick’s terrain. With only a temporary respite

from finishing his Lizardman terrain and with more than a little

inspiration from GW modelmaker Mark Jones, Nick has turned his

attention to the WH40K ruins…

By Nick Davis

There I was, looking at the WH40K Gothic Ruins, ruminating

over the idea of building a new urban terrain battlefield using

loads of these plastic ruins.

At this point my fate was sealed. I’ve built a lot of themed

Lizardman terrain for my Warhammer army (check out Jungle

Fever in WD223, 225 and 232) and I use it as much as possible.

As I mentioned in the final part of Jungle Fever I’ve played a few

WH40K games over it, with my Imperial Guard and Dark Eldar

armies battling across dark jungle and mysterious ruins against

numerous foes, including Adrian Wood’s Orks.

Now Mr Wood uses his plastic ruins without any bases and

places them on his Orky desert terrain wherever he likes, making

his terrain very versatile. The idea of ‘place anywhere’ ruins

really appealed to me and perhaps, I thought, I could do a little

bit more with them.

By now a grand plan was forming in the deeper recesses of my

fevered mind – there are numerous stories of settlements being

overrun and lost throughout the Imperium. I would build one such

ruined Imperial settlement in a jungle

setting, so it would be compatible with my

Lizardman terrain! This meant with a

minimum of effort I would have a second

battlefield. I set to work straight away.

THE PLAN

I never start working on any major scenery

project without first drawing up some kind

of work plan. I do this to make sure

I don’t go too far and start building

a complete hive world that’ll take

most of my natural life to finish. It also

helps me to break the whole project down

into manageable chunks.

I sat down and scribbled for about half an hour,

drawing up my plan. I would be building this terrain to

cover at least half a battlefield and I had to take into account the

cost (I had a very tight budget!). I settled on three ruined

buildings, a storehouse, a broken Imperial monument, a burnt

out power station and a destroyed Imperial shrine. All this would

have lots of crates and barrels which I could litter across the

battlefield in a fairly random manner. With this set down on

paper, I set about the task of building it all…

The first rule of scratch-building

terrain – never throw anything out!

I dug out my Gothic Ruins sprues, purchased a few and was

then given a few more (thanks everybody!). I gathered all the

crate and barricade sprues I could find and found some very

odd shaped packaging which would

be perfect for my store house. I

would use the remaining

polystyrene tiles left over from

building my Lizardman fort

(see WD225) for the

bases.

Above:

The first and

simplest of all my ruined

buildings. I only used one and a

half Gothic Ruins sprues in its construction.

MAKING RUINS

Now I could have made ruins complete with rubble, broken

pipes, craters – the full works. While this would look absolutely

fantastic, I would have one small problem – the ruins would be

so cluttered, none of my miniatures would be able to stand up

on them! Making my Lizardman scenery has shown me that you

have to compromise between effect and realism. Since I use all

my terrain for gaming, effect took precedence.

THE FIRST ONE

It’s always on the first piece of terrain that I find out what I can

or can’t do. First I made up the two basic wall sections and

placed them on either end of the polystyrene tile base I had

made for this piece. Using a pair of clippers I cut up two spare

wall sections, leaving the corner pillar free-standing and then

glued them all into place on the base in a rough resemblance of

the two complete wall sections. I used a floor section to secure

this haphazard corner construction.

I wanted the final corner of the building to be completely ruined.

To do this I cut some of the window frames off the two complete

wall sections and used some of the sprue rubble (see box) to

make a little overgrown ruined section. I also used a little coarse

turf flock for that extra overgrown effect (see WD232 for details

of how to do this).

I used textured paint to cover the base and to half bury some of

the collapsed ruin pieces. I added some more sprue rubble and

a few pieces of

coral gravel, and

then left it to dry.

Once dry the

entire model was

painted black to

make it easier for

drybrushing. The

initial drybrush

used Codex Grey.

I also drybrushed

half the base in

this colour (I

wanted it to look

like the grass had

grown onto the concrete). The remainder of the base and coarse

turf was then drybrushed with Goblin Green. To finish off the

ruins I drybrushed them with Skull White and the Goblin Green

areas were highlighted with a light drybrush of Sunburst Yellow.

I had finished my first ruin.

The first construction took me less than two hours and it was all

pretty easy to build. I had found the secret to making ruins. They

can be really roughly constructed and look great. I started on the

next two ruins…

Right: I wanted one ruin to be

an administration building.

This was the largest of my

constructions (it used six

Gothic Ruins sprues).

Right: This was

to be my final

construction. (I

had only two

and a half

sprues left). So

I decided to try

to make a two-

storey building.

Above: I wanted one part of this

ruin to be completely overgrown.

Again I cut out a single column,

and went crazy with coarse turf

flock, sprue rubble and coral.

Above: Making the second story was

a lot easier than I expected. I simply

built a corner piece, cut the top off it,

turned it upside down and glued it to

the top of another corner piece. It was

really that simple…

SPRUE RUBBLE

Here’s a quick tip straight from GW Modelmaker

Mark Jones: if you clip the plastic frame the

buildings come on into small pieces, it makes

great rubble. You can also clip down any

interesting bits of plastic frame to make bent

girders or

even support

beams!

IMPERIAL STOREHOUSE

As you can see, I used some really unusual packaging to build

this Imperial storehouse. Whatever they were in a past life, they

make perfect domes now.

I wanted this piece to look like it was the reason for the raid on

the settlement – also making it a perfect objective in future

games of WH40K. So a lot of heavy fighting would have taken

place around it (and will again). This fighting would in turn

damage the storehouse and this is reflected in the

damage to the domes’ structures. My favourite effects

are the skeletal remains of one of the domes, made

out of bent garden wire glued together, and the

slightly deflated dome next to it.

I painted the base in the same way as the

rest of my ruined buildings. The domes

however where painted in a slightly

different colour. Starting from a

black undercoat I drybrushed a

coat of Shadow Grey,

followed by Ice Blue, then

Space Wolves Grey and

finishing with Skull White.

This effect makes the

piece stand out from

the rest of the ruins.

Right: The

storehouse’s

gateway is

made out of

an old

Necromunda

bulkhead cut

in half.

RUBBLE AND RAILINGS

I wanted loads of rubble and obstacles that I could place all over my

ruined settlement. To give myself maximum flexibility I made small

strips of rubble. I gathered up all my spare plastic bits and started to

work on some random strips of rubble, fences and railings which I

could scatter around the settlement.

Below: The railings are made from the spike rows taken from the Chaos

Spiky sprue. All I did was glue them on top of each other, after cutting off the

spiky bits on the bottom row. The spiked heads make a gruesome

decoration (it appealed to my Dark Eldar nature) and it’s a complete

coincidence that the Space Marine helmet is in White Scars colours (as is

your impending doom, Davis – Fat Bloke).

Above: This fence

will be going around the power station, and

is made out of the spiked rams from the Barricade sprue. This was

inspired by Mark Jones’ fence (see opposite).

Right: The railings will be going all the way around my

monument (I just need a couple more Chaos Spiky sprues to

finish it off), with a gateway at both ends. The unfortunate

individual on this piece obviously fell defending the gate.

Below: A strip of

rubble using bits of

sprue, crates and a

crucified skeleton. No

overrun Imperial

settlement would be

complete without one!

Above: The great thing about making rubble strips is

that you can use anything. For this one I used half a

Necromunda bulkhead, a tank trap, loads of sprue

rubble and bits of clipped sprue. This was then all

covered in textured paint to give it a buried look.

IMPERIAL MONUMENT

The fallen monument was inspired by a

tumbled down column with a statue of

Commissar Yarrick stuck on the top, which I

saw at Games Day about four years ago. It

was made out of a square polystyrene strip,

covered in texture paint and painted grey. I

wanted to do something similar, but using a

round column.

After two aborted

attempts at

making a round

column out of

polystyrene, I had

to admit I was

stumped. Then

I remembered

something from an

old White Dwarf –

Dave Andrews

built a ruined

temple using plaster cake pillars (broken in

half). These would be perfect, and after a very

long search I finally found some in the local

cake shop that Fat Bloke often frequents.

The construction of the fallen monument was

very easy. The base is made from thick

cardboard and the paving slabs are made out

of thin card cut into 2cm by 2cm squares.

I had a little more trouble breaking up the

plaster pillar. What I suggest is to use a metal

ruler and a small hammer. Place the ruler

(edge down) diagonally across the pillar and

carefully tap it with the hammer. Then using

the small hammer I chipped bits off the pillar

here and there, for a weathered look.

I broke the pillar into three parts and glued

them to the base. I then covered the base with

textured paint and added sprue rubble, all the

chipped off bits of the pillar, sand, coral gravel

and coarse turf flock for that overgrown effect.

I painted the monument black and then

drybrushed the base and coarse turf the same

way as the rest of my Imperial ruins. The

column however was first drybrushed

Bleached Bone, followed by Skull White. This,

I hoped, would give a nice, clean, marble-like

finish to it.

I painted a Space Marine (I couldn’t think of a

more definitive symbol of the Imperium) in a

weathered bronze effect (see right), which I

then glued to the end of the column. And the

monument was finished. Phew…

Well that’s it for now, I’ve still got the power

station and Imperial shrine to go. Hopefully I

will get to tell you about them in a future issue

of White Dwarf. Until then – get building!

PAINTING

WEATHERED BRONZE

1. Spray or paint

the statue with

Black. When the

undercoat is dry,

paint the whole

thing in Jade

Green.

Cake pillars come in all

shapes and sizes.

2. To give the

bronze a

weathered look,

drybrush the

statue with Tin

Bitz.

3. To finish off

the bronze look,

a final drybrush

of Shining Gold

is applied to the

statue.

Right: I used coarse turf

modelling flock glued onto the

broken pillar for that overgrown

effect that you always

see in old Tarzan

movies.

Mark Jones

Above:

This fence is made from

the spike ram on the Barricade sprue.

Glued on their end to a piece of plastic card, they make a

fantastic fence.

Left & below: Rubble strips –

another simple idea, using his

bits box, old crates and plastic

sprue.

Above & left:

Mark used a lot of

sprue rubble and texture

filler on his ruins’ bases. He also

drilled holes and glued in brass wire to

represent the metal reinforcement rods

you find in smashed concrete.

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