0046.pdf

AY/JE 1984, No. 46, $3.50

Pywood Basics

Here 's

Front-Page

News:

ANOTHER

MR. SA DUST BLADE

...FOR B{ WO - SAW SHOP!

We got fancy last Fall and did a survey.

Out of the hundreds who came to our shows, we hand-picked

358 very serious woodworkers and asked them to fill out a

lengthy questionnaire. Here's part of what we learned:

Of the 358, table-saws are used by 242. Radial-arm saws by

212. And 124 own BOTH. So -- 35% have TWO-saw shops!

What's more, they convinced us: My original Mr. Sawdust

blade is ideal for those "perfect, polished cuts" on either

machine -- but they also want an all-purpose, fast-feed,

planer blade strictly for their table saw. One that will give

them a GLUE-LINE cut right off the blade.

They least enjoy ripping heavy stock and cutting up large

andclean as possible. But more than that: Without changing

blades, they want to crosscut and miter with an equally good

cut.

So, for the TWO-saw shop, here's another Mr. Sawdust

blade.

MR. SAWDUST I (For the ONE-Saw Shop)

MR. SAWDUST II (For the TWO-Saw Shop)

This is my original Mr. Sawdust blade -- most desired by the

American craftsman. Kerf: 3/32".60 teeth. Modified triple

chip with micro-finish grind. Exclusive Forrest 400 carbide.

Perfect, polished cuts in every direction. The one blade that

does it all -- for as long as you'll cut wood or plastics.

Designed for use on either table-or radial

saw. A MUST for your radial.

My new special-purpose blade -- strictly for your table-saw.

1/8" kerf. 30 or 40 teeth (see below). Modified alternate

bevel with micro-finish grind. Exclusive Forrest 400 carbide.

Designed for super-fast and planer action in ripping heavy,

solid stock with glue-line quality of cut. Slices ply-panels,

particle-board and one-side laminates quick and clean.

Crosscuts and miters with equal quality and ease.

Generally, I recommend 40 teeth. However, if your ripping

includes a lot of heavy hardwoods, specify 30 teeth. See

dampener information (*) pertaining to table-saws.

Available in 8", 9" and 10" diameters.

Available in 8",

9" and 10"

diameters.

*WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THE FORREST DAMPENER!

It's a vital part of the Forrest blade design -

to suppress harmonics caused by motor,

belts. even change of grain in wood.For 10"

blades. specify 6" dampener. This allows a 2"

depth of cut.(For table-saws, if you cut a lot

of full 2" stock. specify 5" dampener to

remove dampener. (For 8" and 9" blades,

figure dampener size accordingly.) Want

some expert advice? Our 800-number is toll

free!

America's Foremost

Power Tool Professional

1-800-526-7852 (In N.J.: 201-473-5236)

We honor Visa & MasterCard, Money Orders,

Personal Checks and COOs.

ORREST MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC., 250 DELAWANNA AVE" CLIFTON, N.J. 07014

Let me show you these great blades at work!

NATIONAL

WORKING-WITH-WOOD SHOW

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7th Avenue and 33rd Street

NEW YORK CITY

MAY II thru 13

FUR ITURE

WOODWORKING SHOW

Kentucky Fair Expo Center

LOUISVILLE. KENTUCK Y

MAY 18thru 20

sheets of material--so they want to get the job done as quick

expose blade above material.) For maximum

3" depth of cut -- table-saw or radial

For information or to order. .. PHONE TOLL FREE!

FINE OO DWORKING

Editor John Kelsey

Managing Editor Paul Berrorelli

Art Director Deborah Fillion

Associate Editor Jim Cummins

Assistant Editors Dick Burrows

Roger Holmes

David Sloan

Copy Editor Nancy Stabile

Assistant Art Director Roland Wolf

Editorial Secretay Nina Percy

Contibuting Editors

Tage Frid, R. Bruce Hoadley,

Richard Starr, Simon WattS

Consulting Editors

George Frank, Oceo Heuer, Ian J. Kirby,

A.W Marlow, Don Newell,

Richard E. Preiss, Norman Vandal

Methods o f Work

Jim Richey

J UNE 1984, NUMBER 6

. Letters

10 Methods of Wo rk

T-square router guide; vacuum clamp

ing system; bandsaw rip fence

16 Questions & Answers

Broken rocker legs; frame-and-panel

it; hide-glue preservative

22 Books

Two volumes for the student of

American furniture

94 Events

100 Notes and Comment

Quebec rendez-vous; A.W Marlow;

Wintermarket; funiture to go

THE TAUNTON PRESS

Paul Roman, publisher; Janice A. Roman, asso

ciate publisher; JoAnn Muir, direccor of admin

istration; Dale Brown, direccor of marketing;

Tom Luxeder, business manager; Barbara Bahr,

secretary; Lois Beck, ofice services coordinator;

Patricia Rice, receptionist; Liz C t osby, personnel

administrator; May Galpin, production man

a g er; Mary Glazman, data prcessing; Pauline

Fazio, executive secretary. Accounting: Irene Ar

faras, manager; Madeline Colby, Catherine Sulli

van, Elaine Yamin. t: Roger Barnes, design

director; Kathryn Olsen, staff artist. Books: lau

ra Cehanowicz Tringali, editor; C. Heather Brine,

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ScOtt Landis, assistant editors. Fulfillment: Carole

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ssisant mnager; Gloria o n, Do t othy Dreher,

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distribution supervisor; David Blasko, Linnea

Ingram, Marchelle Serling, David Wass. Pro

duction Sevices: Gary Mancini, mana g et; Nancy

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gate, Annette Hilry and Deborah Mason, assis

tanrs. Promotion: Jon Miller, manager; Dennis

Danaher, publicist; Elizabeth Ruthstrom, assis

tant art director. Video: Rick Mastelli.

Advertisin g and Sales: Richard Mulligan and

James P. Chiavelli, sals re p resentatives; Vivian

E. Dorman and Carole Weckesser, sales cordin

ators; Kimberly Mithun, cordinator of indirect

sales; Laura Lesando, seretary; Kathy S p ringer,

customer-evice assistant. Tel. (203) 426-8171.

Cover: Tablesawing plywood. These

wooden sandwiches come in a beguil

ing variety; shown above are Baltic

birch, chery lumbercore and walnut

onfiberboard. Article begins on p. 48.

ARTICLES

36 Veneering by Ian]. Kirby

Preparing substrates is the first step

40 Files in the Woodshop by Heny T. Kramer

They're often a good alternative to abrasives

43 Treatise on fi les and rasps by Dick Burrows

44 Covered Bridges

New technology extends the tradition

48 Plywood Basics by Ann Taylor

The ideal material for box furniture

54 Made in Taiwan by Paul Bertoreli

Copycat tools give U.S. makers a run for their money

58 A Swing-Away Drill-Press Ta ble by RJ. DeCristoforo

Versatile accessories help sand and rout

5 9 An Oscillating Spindle Sander by Wesley P. Glewwe

Taiwanese drill press spins and bobs

62 The Great American Pines by Jon W Ano

Forry species yield three distinct families of cabinet woods

65 Jimmy Carter, Wo odworker by Jim Cummins

A visit with the former president, and drawings of his porch swing

68 Building a porch swing by Jimmy Carter

70 Making a Blind Finger Joint by James A. Rome

Miter hides the router-cut ingers

72 Seat-of-the-Pants Chair Design by Jeremy Singley

A scrapwood mockup solves basic problems

78 Ideas Go Further Than Technique by Lewis Buchner

Two California shows highlight a new direction

82 Wa ter-Gilding by Nancy Russo

How to match the golden age's incomparable shine

86 Mass-Producing Cleopatra's Mirror by Robin Kelsey

Making a living without jigs or a tape mesure

108 Cosmic maypoles

(ISSN 0361-3453) is pub

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MY /

DEPARTMENTS

Fine WOOdworki

Letters

I am in the process of building the small highboy designed by

Carlyle Lynch and featured in FWW #42. I'm using mahog

any and I'm having difficulty bending the cock beading

around the curves of the apron. I followed Mr. Lynch's

insttuctions and boiled the strips for 10 to 15 minutes, but

every time I apply pressure, the strips break. Mr. Lynch

makes it sound very simple and routine.

-Thad W. Evans, Midlothian, Va.

CARLYLE L YNCH REPLIES: I made my highboy of cherry and

had no trouble bending the cock beading. I mistakenly as

sumed that mahogany would be JUSt as easy to bend, but

when I steamed some mahogany strips for an hour in my

wife's canner, I too found that they cracked when bent into

the tight curves of the apron. The practical solution for build

ers working in mahogany is to use cherry or walnut for the

cock beading and then stain it to match, as the old fu rniture

makers here in Virginia often did.

I might add that the cherry and walnut pieces I've bent

so easily have been from "garret-seasoned" wood, which I

prefer to use instead of kiln-dried lumber.

versus circular-sectioned needle, I hope that none of your

readers will find any doctor who would "give you a couple of

used ones." I know of no better way to produce a full-blown

case of hepatitis than to introduce a used needle into the skin.

-James R. Morow, M.D., Anderson, S.c.

I have been able to make replacement blades for the Stanley

#45 and #55 out of old-style can openers. The length,

width and gauge as well as the quality of the steel are close

enough to the originals to make rough-grinding and filing to

size and shape fairly easy. The steel takes a good enough edge

for soft woods, but can be made harder (and also more brit

tle) if heated to a cherry red and quenched in brine. Finish

sharpening can be done with appropriate slip stones, as for

any molding cutters. -Peter Binbaum, Sebastopol, Calif

By and large, the article by Paul Bertorelli in the Notes and

Comment section of issue #44 (" On equipping the small

shop") is well written and gives some good tips for getting

information. The elitist tone taken in the ifth paragraph,

however, disturbs me greatly.

A couple of points about The implication that "Harry

Tage Frid's article on drawers Homeowner" would buy only

in FWW #45: He doesn't poor equipment and that any-

menion the ossibility of glu- thing made by Sears falls into

ing thin hardwood srrips near s category offends me. There

the outside bottom of each are those of us who cannot af-

drawer side. I have used this ford some of the marvelous

method on all sizes of draw- and generally expensive tools

ers, fr om small trinket draw- available today. Although I

ers to the nine-inchers in a do not think anyone would

chest. It permits most of the compare Sears to Inca, there is

side to have easy clearance in- 'A palm plane is a very handy tool, as it is about 5 in. long. no question that for those of

side the carcase, and if the Here's a photo of three of the palm planes I've made. The lact us in small towns, Sears tools

srrips are rubbed with para f - that I h h

in, it reduces friction to al- ments e Ps . . . - y rIC son, ou ow , onn. able, and easy to get parrs for.

most nothing. As regards lumber for drawer sides, Mr. Frid I consider myself relatively well versed in woodworking,

says that pine and poplar are too soft. I have used sugar pine but I also consider myself a "Harry Homeowner" and resent

on many drawers, with no problem. I do see that the wood is the implication that I am some kind of second-rate wood-

quartersawn, however, even if it means resawing the sides worker because of the tools that I use.

from heavier lumber.

i ve a , Miler pri � ters' f!: wit t � c � met � k a � ust-

are available, generally reli

-Douglas W. Lieualen, M.D., Madras, Ore.

Incidentally, I don't consider that a drawer fits unless it can

e pulled Out and pushed in with one fmger when ully loaded.

-Stephen Miler, Essex, Conn.

I'm an amateur woodworker and metallurgist, and presently

I'm going through my back issues of Fine Woodworking,

rereading articles of interest. I must admit that I have won

dered about, and been amused by and sometimes horrified at

the myths and misunderstandings that people have about the

steel in their tools. There's nothing mysterious about fine cut

ting tools; quality is a matter of selecting the proper material,

heat treatment and forming procedures.

Today's steels are better than those at any other time in

history. Anybody who pines for toolmaking of bygone years is

living in a make-believe world. Those rare tools that have

survived for a hundred years are the product of good crafts

manship and exceptional care, or even lack of use. Never for

get t hat for every hundred-year-old chisel that exists today,

thousands probably went to the scrap heap. Anybody who

doubts the advances in cutting-tool technology should throw

away his carbide cutters and high-speed drills and go back to

spokeshaves and splinters.

-Randal Anderson, Valejo, Calif

I read with upsetting interest the article in issue #43 about

shop-testing five jointer-planers. It was interesting because it

was a needed article, but upsetting because with a few words

it passed over rwo of this country's most nicely crafted and

cost-effective machines: the Parks No. 11 combination jointer

planer and the Parks No. 95 planer.

Not to fly the flag too high in these days of esoteric im

os, 1'd like o say that these machines are rated by American

machinists in Cincinnati, Ohio, and have been since 1887.

Perhaps Mr. Parks will need a cabinet someday and I can sup

ply him because he is solvent. I doubt that any of my compa

rriots are expecting work from Mr. Hitachi or Mr. Makita.

But emotions are inconsequential when I run a 12-in. wide

laminated board through my Parks fo r counter sections, plan

ing off s in. in a single pass. I believe that your readers

would appreciate adding the Parks machines to their list of

choices when shopping fo r a tool that they can pass on to

their children. -Richard Raucina, Midpines, Calif

All of us in woodworking feel concerned for our safety in the

shop. Usually we do try to take precautions. But sometimes

we slip up under the pressures of production, or when taking

those precautions seems inconvenient. There re simple remedies,

I appreciated the splinter-removal method of Dr. Tompkins

(FWW #44, p. 6). While I can see the advantage of a flat

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