6042_Instructions.pdf

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219719002 UNPDF
PATTERN
1 Front piece 4x
2 Back piece 2x
3 Front skirt panel 1x
4 Back skirt panel 1x
5 Shoulder straps 4x
6 Back placket 2x
How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:
Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines
To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece as far
apart as necessary.
To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece as
far as necessary. Blend the side edges.
Fabrics: cotton fabrics
CUTTING OUT
FOLD (– – – –) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being the
center of the pattern piece, but never a cut edge or seam.
The piece should be cut double, with the fold line forming the
center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined with a broken
line in the cutting diagrams are to be placed face down on
the fabric. The cutting diagrams on the pattern sheet show
how the pattern pieces should be placed on the fabric.
The patterns can be printed out at the copy shop. If you
decide to print them at home, follow the instructions:
Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:
The patterns are printed out on 24 sheets with a thin frame.
Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the sheets so
that they fit together (see additional page with the overview
of the prints). Fold the single sheets on the upper and right
edge along the thin frame lines. Begin with the left lower
sheet and then tape the frame lines together precisely.
The cutting diagrams show the placement of the pattern on
the fabric.
For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are pinned to
the right side. For double layers of fabric, the right sides are
facing and the pattern pieces are pinned to the wrong side.
The pattern pieces that are shown extending over the fold of
the fabric in the cutting diagram should be cut last from a
single layer of fabric.
ADJUST PATTERN SIZES
Select your size according to the Burda-dimension table:
dresses, blouses, jackets and coats according to the bust
size, trousers and skirts according to the hip width. Change
the pattern to fit your measurements if they deviate from the
Burda-size chart. Cut out the pattern pieces 1 to 6
according to your size.
Refer to our ‘Adjust patterns for mixed sizes’ technique
SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on an
average:
1 5⁄8" (4 cm) for hem, 5/8” (1 .5 cm) for all edges and
stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the lines and
signs of the pattern onto the wrong side of the fabric.
Instructions can be found in the packaging.
LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN
PIECES
Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm). If you
are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern pieces along
the lines marked "lengthen or shorten here". This way the
proper fit is maintained. Always adjust all pattern pieces
along the same line to the same degree.
Sewing
While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are facing.
Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right side of the
fabric using basting stitches.
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INTERFACING
Cut the interfacing according to the cutting diagram
and press onto the wrong fabric side.
DRESS
Top piece
Gather front piece
1 To gather the front edge of the front piece double
stitch using basting stitches. Tighten the bobbin
threads to 3” (7 cm) width. Knot threads. Distribute the
width equally.
FRONT CENTER SEAM
2 Position the front pieces together, right sides facing.
Stitch the center seam using a narrow stitch
adjustment. Stitch over the gathers. Do not stitch over
the allowances at top and bottom (arrows). Secure
seam ends. Press allowances apart. Open the basting
stitches. Do that for both pairs of front pieces.
RIGHT SIDE SEAM
3 Position the front and back piece together, right
sides facing. Stitch the right side seam (seam number
1). Stitch the right side seam of the inner front and
back piece as an mirror image to the dress seam.
Press allowances apart.
DOUBLE TOP PIECE
4 Position the top pieces together, the side seams
meeting. Pin the top edges together and stitch. Trim
allowances. Turn top piece. Pin open edges and
press. On the right side of the fabric, stitch along the
center front seam.
PLACKET / SHOULDER STRAPS
5 Position the interfaced placket and interfaced right
shoulder strap together, right sides facing. Stitch right
side seam (seam number 2). Stitch the side seam of
the non-interfaced pieces as an mirror image. Press
allowances apart.
6 Position the interfaced and non-interfaced piece for
the right shoulder strap together, right sides facing. Pin
the long edges together and stitch. Trim allowances
and snip in. Turn the piece using a safety pin (6a). Pin
the edges and press. Stitch the pieces for the left
shoulder strap accordingly. Turn strap, pin edges and
press.
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7 Pin the placket with shoulder strap on the top piece.
It meets the seam line. The right side seams meet.
The shoulder straps overlap the top piece. Topstitch
the placket narrowly on both sides. Topstitch the
shoulder straps narrowly; then neaten the open strap
ends.
SKIRT / RIGHT SIDE SEAM
8 Position the front and back skirt panel together,
right sides facing. Pin the right side seam (seam
number 3) and stitch. Neaten allowances and press
apart.
TOPSTITCH TOP PIECE
9 Gather the top skirt edge double stitch it using
basting stitches. Tighten the bobbin threads to the
width of the top piece. Knot thread ends. Distribute
the width equally.
10 Position the top piece on the top skirt edge (seam
number 4), right sides facing and centers meeting.
The right side seams meet. Topstitch the top piece
narrowly, but leave an opening at the center front.
Trim allowances, neaten and press inside the top
piece.
ZIPPER (hidden)
The zipper will be applied in a way that the seam
edges cover it up. The zipper should be slightly
longer than the opening. It will be applied before
stitching the side seam below the zipper. Stitch the
zipper using your sewing machine’s zipper foot.
Neaten the side edges.
11 Open the zipper and pin it with its right side onto
the allowance of the opening edge. The little zipper
teeth are positioned on the marked opening edges.
Then stitch the zipper using the zipper foot, closely
along the zipper teeth line. Do the same with the
other side of the zipper (11a). Stitch both sides from
the top to the opening sign (arrow). Since the little
teeth have the tendency to roll up the zipper foot
keeps them flat. Close the zipper. Turn the strip ends
over the allowances. Turn the allowances inside and
sew by hand (11b).
LEFT SIDE SEAM
12 Position the front and back piece together. Stitch
the side seam from the bottom to the opening sign.
Pull the zipper slightly. Secure seam ends. Press
allowances apart.
13 Neaten the bottom edge. Turn the edge inside and
press. Topstitch the hemline now ½” (1 cm) wide.
Work two button holes into the back placket; 3” to 4”
(8 to 11 cm) next to the center back. Accordingly,
apply the buttons onto the shoulder strap ends. Try
the dress on and adjust the shoulder strap length as
needed. Button the shoulder straps.
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